Draft:Igor Chaplynsky

Igor Chaplynsky (Ihor Orestovych Chaplynskyi) is a Ukrainian mountaineer.

Biography
Born in Zabolotiv, Sniatyn district, Ivano-Frankivsk region, Ukraine.

In 1976, he entered the Faculty of Mechanics and Mathematics at Taras Shevchenko National University of Kyiv, graduating in 1981. During his studies, he was an active member of the University mountain tourism club (headed by Borys Zakharchenko), and at the same time became interested in rock climbing and mountaineering.

After graduation, he stayed to live and work in Kyiv.

Sporting achievements

 * Candidate for Master of Sports since 1986, Master of Sports since 1991
 * Leading mountaineering coach of Ukraine in 1991–1994
 * He has climbed a number of 7,000-metre peaks (including all the "Soviet" ones, except for Jengish Chokusu).

Among the known climbs (all of them are of the VI category of difficulty, i.e. the highest):


 * Dhaulagiri (8167 m, Dhaulagiri massif, Nepal) – 1994 (classic route)
 * Aksu (5217 m, Turkestan Range, Pamir-Alay (Fan Mountains)) – 1987 (Kavunenko's route), 1988 (Chaplynsky's route), 1991 (Kostenko's route variant)
 * Shingu Charpa (5800 m, Karakoram), 2006 (first ascent, northern ridge) – its participants Igor Chaplynsky, Andriy Radiontsev and Orest Verbytsky were nominated for the Piolets d'Or (Golden Ice Axe), which was awarded on 2 February 2007. (Photo report from the award ceremony "16 Piolet d'Or-2007" is available on the website "mountain.ru" ;
 * Denali (McKinley) (6168 m, Cordillera, Alaska) – 2010
 * Ushba (4690 m, Svaneti, Greater Caucasus) – 5 times, including 1993 – North Ushba, 1993 (Anatoliy Kustovsky's route), 2005 (Myshlyaev's route), 2011 (new route "Kharakternyk").

Awards and honours
Igor Chaplynsky is the recipient of several high honours for his outstanding achievements in mountaineering. Among them: 1) the Master of Sports award No. 266561, presented to Igor Chaplynsky for his achievements in mountaineering 2) the Order of Merit III class, No. 4027, awarded to Igor Chaplynsky on 9.10.2001, 3) "Golden Ice Axe" as the highest award in mountaineering, awarded on 26.01.2007.

Public life
He is an advocate of "eco-life", living in harmony with nature. He categorically rejects life on asphalt, water of unknown quality from the tap, and food of unknown quality from shops. He lives in a manor built by himself from natural materials.

In the spring of 2014, Igor Chaplinsky published an "Appeal to Russian climbers" on sports web resources.

He actively cooperates with volunteer groups that help soldiers on the frontlines of the Russian-Ukrainian war of 2014-2023. A significant amount of aid sent through volunteers to support the army (sewing jackets and special equipment, repairing drones, etc.) is never advertised by Ihor Orestovych, and it remains known only to a narrow circle of people involved in this assistance.