Draft:Neglyub folk textile tradition

Neglyub folk textile tradition(Belarusian: (Неглюбская народная тэкстыльныя традыцыя, IPA:[Niehliubskaja narodnaja tekstyĺnyja tradycyja])) or Neglub weaving is an original phenomenon of Belarusian folk art, which originated and continues to exist in the village of Neglyubka situated in Vetkovsky district, of the Gomel Region. Its unusual features are: a variety of weaving and embroidery techniques, complex polychrome and rich ornamental compositions. The most famous and widespread component of Neglyub weaving is the famous Neglyub towel(«Rushnik»). Neglyub towels are made in white-red and white-red-white tones with many shades (up to 25 in one product), distinguished by a wonderful ornamental background, which is formed in a mirror-symmetrical structure (at each end of the towel). patterned stripes from 3 to 9) and forms polymorphic geometric and floral ornamental motifs. The ends of the towels are decorated with a fringe of red, white and black threads.

In addition to towels, other interior items are also made: multi-colored bed linen, tablecloths, curtains, corner covers, as well as clothing items (the so-called “Neglyub system”).

The Neglyub system is one of the most archaic and complex types of Belarusian national costume (the old panel complex), harmoniously combining a white ornamented shirt, a split-colored panel-plakhta, a cloth apron, a breast apron (“zapina”), a wide red belt and a patterned woven scarf. Like the towel, the Neglyub system is distinguished by a variety of weaving technology and a wealth of embroidery.

Weaving and embroidery technology
Neglyub weaving involves the use of weaving (brocade) (single-weft and two-weft), pick-and-sew (under-the-fabric, double-sided and one-sided pick-ups), selected, embedded and multi-thread techniques are used. In embroidery, the most common types are “set”, a cross stitch”, a facial and free satin stitches, a stem stitch, a chain stitch, a double-sided painted stitch. Additionally, complex connecting stitches (“Neglyub lace(Belarusian: Неглюбская мерэжка IPA: [“Neglyubskaya myarezhka”])”) and textile weaving are widely used.

Historical information
The Neglyub folk textile tradition developed on the basis of the interaction of various cultural movements characteristic of this region in the 17th and 18th centuries as a result of its active settlement by various ethnic groups (indigenous Belarusians, Russians, Ukrainians).

In the 19th century The village of Neglyubka was one of the largest settlements in the Suraj district (about 3,000 inhabitants). At that time, the traditional costume of the Neglyubsky system was actively developing: cutting and finishing techniques changed, the ornamental stock expanded, and new items of clothing appeared. At that time, the Neglyubsky system reached the highest degree of perfection.

In the 19th-20th centuries, the artistic tradition of producing Neglyub towels, as well as other interior items, actively developed. In the 1930s, the traditional combination of red and white towels was enriched by the introduction of black color into the bustle ornament; the ornamental stock increased significantly due to the emergence of new patterns of pick-and-sew weaving and the transfer of older ornamental elements to the new technique of older ornamental elements.

In the 20th century the interior of a traditional village house (hut) has been significantly enriched thanks to the appearance of new objects and their decorative development. In the 1970s, a unique style of Neglyub interiors emerged, characterized by brightness and joyful fete. The uniqueness of the Neglyub artistic tradition became widely known in the 1970s through a number of major exhibitions and cultural events. At the All-Union exhibition-competition of masters of folk art, dedicated to the 100th anniversary of the birth of V. I. Lenin (Moscow, 1970), among other items, towel-neglyubs were exhibited (authors Ye. S. Barsukova, T. F. Dzeranok, M. A. Prikhodko, Ye. Ya. Suglob). Since then, Neglyubka has become known as a distinctive center of modern hand weaving and embroidery. Excellent examples of the Neglyub masters’ craftsmanships were also demonstrated in Italy, Germany, Great Britain, Japan, Belgium, France, Canada, and the USA.

In the modern period, the textile tradition of the village of Neglyubka is keeped by local residents, mainly women. Modern masters teach the younger generation techniques characteristic of the Neglyub tradition in circles organized at the Neglyub rural weaving center, in the “Young Weavers” club at the Neglyub school, in the weaving club of the Vetkovsky Children and Youth Creativity Center.

Recognition of intangible historical and cultural value
In 2016, by the decision of the Belarusian Republican Scientific and Methodological Council under the Ministry of Culture of the Republic of Belarus, the Neglyub folk textile tradition received the status of intangible historical and cultural value and was included in the State List of Historical and Cultural Values of the Republic of Belarus (code -33A0000089). Nominated for UNESCO's List of Intangible Cultural Heritage in Need of Urgent Safeguarding in 2022 for consideration in 2024.