Draft:Paper collar

A paper collar is a kind of detachable collar. Other materials used were linen, rubber, or celluloid. Paper collars replaced cloth collars and were popular from the 1860s through the first half of the 1900s.

Manufacture
TODO

Paper collars and their manufacture

 * Bishop, J. Leander. “Lockwood’s Paper Collar Manufactory.” In A History of American Manufactures, from 1608 to 1860, vol. 3, 61–64. Philadelphia: E. Young, 1868.
 * Kibel, Jennifer Feingold. “Pulp Fashion: The History of Patented Paper Clothing.” M.A. thesis, Fashion Institute of Technology, 1998.
 * “Ladies’ and Gentlemen’s Paper Collars, Cuffs, &c.—How They are Made.” New York Times, 20 July 1866.
 * Union Paper Collar Co. v. Van Dusen. 90 U.S. 530 (1874).
 * The Last Paper Collar Factory in the Country: University Sold Its Stock In Cambridge Company By Robert M. Pringle, November 30, 1956. The Harvard Crimson
 * the return of the paper collar
 * Decline of the Paper Collar March 1, 2006
 * "off the cuff" - paper collars & paper cuffs
 * Records of paper collar manufacturers Harvard archives COLLECTION Identifier: Mss:456 1854-1869 R311.
 * "Cotton rags were used to produce paper collars and cuffs, which gave them more strength and durability. Both the Eagle Mill and the Glen Paper Collar Co. used cotton rags for the production of collars until they went out of style and the supply of cotton was cut off in the Civil War." History Lesson: Saratoga County, Ballston Spa and Milton once home to dozens of paper mills Saratogian News. Published March 20, 2011
 * " A written article explaining the process of the paper collars being made." Pages 634 - 640. The Daily Graphic, New York City, Thursday, January 28, 1875 https://brookside.pastperfectonline.com/archive/F2156C36-61D1-4342-8926-405971807559
 * Brooks Brothers on detachable collars more generally

Overall history

 * Colle, Doriece. Collars, Stocks, Cravats: A History and Costume Dating Guide to Civilian Men’s Neckpieces, 1655–1900. Emmaus, Pa.: Rodale Press, 1972.
 * Gordon, Jennifer Farley, and Colleen Hill. Sustainable Fashion: Past, Present, and Future. New York: Bloomsbury, 2014.
 * Turbin, Carole. “Collars and Consumers: Changing Images of American Manliness and Business.” Enterprise and Society 1 (2000): 507–35.
 * Murphy, Michael John, White collared: fashioning masculinity in American visual culture, Dissertation, Washington University in St. Louis, Dept. of Art History and Archaeology, 2006. https://spokane.wustl.edu/record=b3354450~S2

Advertising

 * Advertising the 19th Century Detachable Collar, Maria Dorfman, 2017 January 3.