Kayan, Baghlan

Kayan is a town in Baghlan Province in north eastern Afghanistan It is located in the valley of Kayan, some 30 kilometres west of Dushi. It is the official seat of Sayed of Kayan; a ruling Historical title of Northern Afghanistan. The residents of Kayan valley are mostly members of Sadat and Hazara tribes loyal to Sayed Kayan who has been the official representative of Aga Khan in Afghanistan. These Sayyids follow Isma'ili Islam.

Throughout its history, Kayan has been a significant locale for the Ismaili community within Afghanistan, particularly during periods of conflict such as the Soviet era, the Mujahideen, and the Afghan civil war. It emerged as a stronghold for Afghanistan's Ismaili forces, under the leadership of Sayed Jafar Naderi. Sayed Jafar, the elder son of Sayed Mansur Naderi, who is the head of the Ismailis in Afghanistan, commanded a force of over 13,000-18,000 armed individuals. Their primary objective was to safeguard the interests of the Ismaili community amidst challenges posed by the government, Mujahideen, and other factions during these turbulent times.

The strategic and communal significance of Kayan, along with its role in the defense of the Ismaili population, was highlighted in the documentary Warlord of Kayan directed by Jeff B. Harmon and produced by Journeyman Pictures in 1989. This film documents the valley's historical context and its importance as a center of Ismaili leadership and military organization. The documentary movie is available on different platforms including Youtube, Amazon Prime Video, Apple TV, Roku and many more.

In addition to its historical and military relevance, Kayan is rooted in spiritual and cultural traditions. The valley is home to descendants of Shah Abdal Wali, a spiritual leader of Hussaini Sadat origin who migrated from the regions of Iraq-Iran to Afghanistan. His lineage has been revered across various communities for their virtues of honesty, sincerity, and compassion. Leadership within the Kayan valley has historically been marked by a series of prominent figures who have played pivotal roles in guiding the community towards truth and righteousness, emphasizing the spiritual heritage that characterizes this unique region of Afghanistan.

The Kayan Eagle
During the 1990s, an eagle statue was constructed atop a hill, commanding a view over the Kayan valley, becoming a distinguished landmark of the area. Tragically, in early September 1998, this emblematic statue met its demise through a targeted rocket attack followed by a bomb explosion. A report from Pakistan's Frontier Post, dated September 6, 1998, detailed that the statue's destruction was carried out by Taliban forces shortly after they had established control over Kayan in August of the same year. The demolition was driven by the conviction held by the Taliban that the depiction of living beings in such forms contradicted Islamic principles.

Frederique Lengaigne and Klaus Reisinger, two French photographers of Compass Photos visited Afghanistan in 1990s and have taken multiple pictures of the Eagle statute. In his photos captions on the company's website, he defines Ismaili community in Afghanistan, as one of the most moderate and open society, allowing women equality and certain rights.

Kayan, often compared to Alamut in Iran due to its similar topographical features, is sometimes referred to as "the second eagle's nest." Historically, Alamut has been described as an "eagle's nest" in various texts and records. The designation of Kayan as a second "eagle's nest" is further supported by a notable structure within the same valley, also named 'Eagle Nest.'

The official inaugural ceremony of Eagle of Kayan was on December 10, 1996 in Kayan Valley in the presence of polticial and cultural figures from different parts of Afghanistan. Aseemuddin Adil who had contributed to the construction of the statue has said the exterior of the structure was made of iron and steel.

Drug Addiction Treatment Center
In the remote valley of Kayan, a drug addiction treatment center was established by Sayed Mansur Naderi in 1990s to provide medical services to those who were addicted to drugs and opium. According to journalists visit in 1992, most of its patients were from districts in Badakhshan province.

According to the information published on the website of Sayed Mansur Naderi, over 3,200 addicted individuals have been treated in this medical center. Other documents and reports indicate, that mobile team of doctors and medical assistants were sent to some Badakhshan districts including Ishkashim, Afghanistan, Shighnan, Zebak, Afghanistan and Darwaz District to establish temporary on-site medical camps and provide treatment services to the victims of opiums and drugs. This moves were warmly welcomed by the people and residents in those border towns and rural areas.

Amitabh Bachchan's Visit
In 1991, during a visit to northern Afghanistan, Bollywood actor Amitabh Bachchan filmed parts of the movie Khuda Gawah. During his trip, he visited the Kayan Valley and met with local residents, community leaders, and military officials including Sayed Mansur Naderi and his son Sayed Jafar Naderi, also known as Warlord of Kayan. In this visit, Sayed Mansur Naderi who was hosting Amitabh Bachchan and his team, gifted a rare horse to him.

Warlord of Kayan
The Warlord of Kayan is a significant and popular documentary movie, filmed in 1989 by Jeff B. Harmon, featuring the political and social landscape of Baghlan during the civil wars. The former governor of Baghlan Sayed Jafar Naderi was chosen as the central character in this documentary. He, who was also known as Jeff Naderi outside the borders of Afghanistan, is the son of Sayed Mansur Naderi, an influential political and religious figure. The film won the Golden Gate Award at the San Francisco International Film Festival.

The documentary Warlord of Kayan is further complemented by revelations about Sayed Jafar Naderi's early years, particularly his transition from a youth in Allentown, Pennsylvania, to a key figure in Afghanistan's military and political arena. The Los Angeles Times article unveils Naderi's life from his schooling at Hiram W. Naderi's anecdotes from his time in Allentown—ranging from his involvement with local motorcycle gangs to his affinity for AC/DC's "Highway to Hell," and his claim of making the best french fries in Kayan—offer a unique glimpse into the personal history behind the warlord. These details not only humanize Naderi but also illustrate the complex interplay of cultural, familial, and geopolitical factors that propelled his eventual return to Afghanistan. By the age of 24, Naderi's leadership skills had propelled him to significant roles, including the governorship of Baghlan province and command of a substantial opposition force, underscoring his strategic and pragmatic approach in the midst of Afghanistan's turbulent politics and conflict.

The film was also was featured in the Sunday Times magazine and a picture of Sayed Jafar Naderi taken by Jeff B. Harmon during one of the filmmaking scenes, had gone on the magazine's front cover. Hard copies of magazine collected by Magazine Canteen are still available.