Khimlal Gautam

Khim Lal Gautam is a Nepalese mountaineer and Chief Survey Officer in the Survey Department, Government of Nepal. He is the world's only civil servant and surveyor to have scaled the Mount Everest twice. Additionally, he holds the distinction of being the highest-ranking government official from the Nepal government to have summited Everest. Gautam, along with Rabin Karki, was the first surveyor to reach the top of the mountain to measure its actual altitude using state-of-the-art technology.

Early life and education
Gautam was born in the Hadaule, a small village in Nepal Kaski District where he spent his entire childhood. Growing up, he was enchanted by the sight of Mt Machapuchhre, just 20 kilometers away from his home, which fueled his love for Nepal's majestic mountains. Despite this, it was Mount Everest that truly captured his imagination, being famous as the tallest peak in the world.

Growing up amidst this natural wonder, Gautam developed a deep love for the mountains and dreamed of exploring them one day. His childhood in Handaule was filled with adventure and wonder, as he marveled at the beauty of the Himalayas every day. This environment instilled in him a strong connection to nature and a profound respect for the Himalayas. Gautam has often cited his childhood experiences as a wellspring of inspiration for his remarkable achievements, including his groundbreaking expeditions to conquer Mount Everest.

Gautam has obtained his master's degree in Geographical Information Science and Systems from the Universität Salzburg.

First summit


In 2010, Gorkhapatra daily published an advertisement inviting interested civil servants of Nepal to apply for the inaugural civil servant expedition to summit Mount Everest, as part of the Visit Nepal Year 2011 promotion program. Despite applying, he was not initially selected and ended up being an alternate candidate. However, an opportunity arose when a team member had to attend a foreign function, and he was accommodated in the team. On May 18, 2011, they successfully reached the summit at exactly 5:20 am. He was the first among his team to reach the summit.

Second summit
In 2017, following the 2015 Nepal Earthquake, Nepal's Survey Department organized an expedition to Mount Everest to reassess its height. Khim Lal Gautam, chosen as the team leader for his mountaineering experience and engineering skills, led the expedition. The then Prime Minister of Nepal, KP Oli, bid farewell to the team on April 10, 2019. After extensive preparation and acclimatization at Base Camp over 26 days, the team began their ascent on May 18. However, adverse weather conditions and a shortage of oxygen bottles at the South Col posed challenges. Despite these obstacles, Gautam pressed on, aware that descending would likely result in failure based on his prior Everest experience. On May 22, at 3 a.m., Gautam, along with colleague Rabin Karki and Sherpa, successfully reached the summit of Mount Everest, achieving their mission despite the difficulties faced.

Book
Pandhrau Chuli is a book that chronicles the author Khim Lal Gautam's experiences and explorations related to Mount Everest. It delves into the emotional and geographical aspects of Everest, weaving together personal anecdotes, historical facts, and insights gained from Gautam's two ascents of the mountain. The narrative captures the essence of courage, risk, and struggle encountered during Everest expeditions, while also shedding light on the broader history of Everest exploration. Through Gautam's unique perspective as both a nationalist and a private individual, the book offers readers a deep and multifaceted understanding of Everest and its significance.
 * Pandhraun Chuli (2022)