Talk:Smith & Wesson Model 22A

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I will add a photo (taken by me of my personal 22A) shortly.

I purchased a 22A recently. My first outing had a few jams and failure to feed. I found a burr on the entrance to the chamber I removed and polished the feed ramp. Second outing I fired 500 rounds of the inexpensive bulk Federal rounds with not one single problem. ```` N2shotokai —Preceding unsigned comment added by N2shotokai (talk • contribs) 16:45, 15 March 2009 (UTC)

I've seen the burr on the chamber entrance. It's common and something to check for before firing the 22A (or any other .22 for that matter). It occurs from dry firing the gun. With no brass cartridge to absorb the impact, the hardened firing pin strikes the steel of the barrel. This nicks the barrel and can break the firing pin (haven't seen that yet but barrel nicks are common). First thing to do with a new gun is to clean it well. At this time the barrel should also be checked for any imperfections. My 22A had a nick in the barrel when I got it. I removed it with a small semi round file. Just enough to remove the burr and I tested it by inserting a blank .22 cartridge for smooth insertion and easy removal. - pgdion —Preceding unsigned comment added by Pgdion (talk • contribs) 19:46, 25 February 2010 (UTC)

I have found that the spent case often gets caught between the barrel and the slide. Other .22A owners at my club have had the same problem, but said that it diminishes once the the pistol is broken in. Some ammo is worse than others. One brick I bought (forget brand) was terrible. I always keep my weapons well oiled, remove all packing grease before firing. I found that putting a LARGE amount of oil on the ejector, letting the pistol rest ejector up for 30 min, then flip the pistol so the ejector is down for another 30 min before wiping off excess oil did the trick. —Preceding unsigned comment added by 24.72.120.192 (talk) 18:30, 31 October 2010 (UTC)

Well, since we're collecting user experiences... I have two 22A's. They are extremely accurate shooters (comparable to my K-22 as a matter of fact), and the trigger is much better than you would think from reading this article. The gun is a cheap, mass-produced item, and the feed and ejector ramps and breech face must be smoothed and polished before use. The recoil spring is stiff initially, and consequently the gun likes hot ammo (CCI Blazer feeds flawlessly) until the spring is broken in. The 22A, like all pistols, should be kept clean to insure reliable function. The 22A has a "sacrificial" recoil pad that must be replaced every few thousand rounds (more often when firing hot ammo), but these are cheap and easy to replace. The two allen bolts holding the ramp/barrel assembly together can become loose, which will cause the gun to jam or fire erratically. Applying blue loctite and torquing the bolts to an appropriate "permanent" value will obviate this problem. Whenever you purchase a cheap gun, you should judiciously deburr sliding and mating parts, but keep in mind that some things (ejector pin, slide lock detent) are sharp by design, and should not be filed or sanded. I replace my recoil spring every 5000 rounds. If you are fat-fingered and think that S&W should maintain your pistol for you, don't buy a 22A. — Preceding unsigned comment added by 66.92.42.220 (talk) 17:51, 4 January 2012 (UTC)

This article describes the 22A as a single action automatic. This is incorrect. The 22A is striker fired, not single action. Also, while it is one of the best .22's available for the price, SW dropped it inexplicably from their catalog in 2015. This seems to be a trend for SW, as they have also dropped the 2213/2214 which was an outstanding little .22 I carried off duty for years, as well as the 422/622 line of 22's. They still have the Model 41, but are selling it for over one thousand dollars. The 22A was a better deal.198.229.254.173 (talk) 05:11, 26 December 2016 (UTC)