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Herno
OPENING SUMMARY:

Herno is an Italian apparel manufacturer founded in 1948 by Giuseppe Marenzi most known for its raincoats and down jackets. Herno took its name from the river Erno, which runs close to the company.

HISTORY:

Herno was founded in 1948 in Lesa, on the shores of Lake Maggiore, by Giuseppe Marenzi and his wife Alessandra Diana. It was just after the war and Giuseppe, having lost his job after years of working for Siai-Marchetti, which produced airplanes during World War II, sought a new job with a company that manufactured raincoats. Even though they were not actively recruiting, Giuseppe was hired. To make cotton waterproof, they used castor oil, the same substance used in making military aviation fuel, and it was thanks to his previous experience that Marenzi was able to supply the raw material that the business needed, not only to continue operating, but to actually increase its production. It did not take long for him to move from that job to establishing his own business. The climate around Lake Maggiore is extremely humid and rainy, so well made raincoats are in demand. Herno was thus founded on the basis of opportunity, intuition and inventiveness. Its story starts with water, water from Lake Maggiore and the river Erno. Raincoats, first for men and later for women, were Herno's first products. Then in the 1960s, cashmere coats were added with a focus on double-faced items and exports within Europe started during the same period. The collection diversified in the ten years that followed, and for women, it included jackets, suits and dresses too. In 1971, Giuseppe Marenzi was among the first in Italy to expand into the Japanese market opening the first Herno boutique in Osaka. The 1980s were spent consolidating its collections and markets and entering the new, strategic market of the United States. The company's know-how was valuable to the leading brands who were affirming their presence in the international markets and decided to entrust the production of their garments to the Lesa- based company. Production for third party brands characterized the 1990s along with activities to develop the Herno brand. Giuseppe Marenzi's story is followed by that of his son, Claudio, who is the current President and Managing Director of Herno. He joined the company in his early twenties, starting in production, moving on to the sales and marketing department and then to strategy. He was the one who led the changes that the business underwent in the years following 2000: the business needed new direction and, taking inspiration from the past, the Herno brand once again became the company's strategic focus. Herno brand is now an ambassador for luxury Italian goods in the world's leading stores, with 70% of revenue coming from exports.

SUSTAINABILITY:

All the sites in Lesa, where Herno headquarters are, are camouflaged into the landscape, with complete sympathy for the surrounding countryside, respecting the harmony of the mountains that surround the town. The nineteenth-century factory, completely restructured thanks to investment in photovoltaic technology, is entirely self-sufficient in terms of energy requirements, which have been gradually reduced by purchasing low energy consumption machinery.

In 2015 RadiciGroup, Eurojersey and Herno unveiled the first and only European scientific study of sustainability on a fashion garment. The three companies represent the excellence in the textile field, both in Italy and worldwide, and through this pioneering project they certified and tracked the environmental impact of a Herno man's jacket at all stages of its production process. This partnership has been established before the release of the Law n.221 of 28th December 2015, which regulates the environmental provisions to promote "green economy" measures and further seek to limit the excessive use of natural resources. The national voluntary scheme for labeling "Made Green in Italy" adopts the methodology of P.E.F. - Product Environmental Footprint. P.E.F. evaluates the environmental performances of the entire production cycle: - Identifies the value of Made in Italy from the yarn to the consumer wardrobe, through the entire production chain; - Certifies the final Herno jacket as 100% Made in Italy; - Declares the environmental performance of this product to the final consumer; - Confirms the Italian leadership in the textile technological innovation. The scientific evaluation of this study takes into consideration specific impact categories: PRIMARY ENERGY CONSUMPTION - CLIMATE CHANGES - REDUCING OZONE LAYER - ACIDIFICATION - SEE and TERRESTRIAL EUTROPHICATION - CARCINOGENIC EFFECTS on HUMAN - TOXICITY NOT CARCINOGENIC on HUMAN - ECOTOXICITY - SMOG – IODIZE RADIATION - DEPLETION Of SOIL - WATER RESOURCE DEPLETION. Among the most explicative results: - Water resource depletion jacket’s contribution less than 0,4% compared with the amount indicator of a year consumption made by an European citizen; - A garment made in China produced 92% of CO2 emissions, than the one made in Italy; - The COMIL (environmental cost) of a jacket made in China amounts to 5.22 euro vs. 1.97 euro of the one made in Italy (in China the jacket may cost less as production, but it costs more and more in terms of environmental impact : 165% more than the jacket made in Italy).

LABELS:

- Herno: main line for men and women (since 1948) - Herno Laminar: sartorial engineering line for men and women. Technology is at the service of fashion: active sport performance for items with urban taste - Herno Kids: kidswear collection - Herno Signature: womenswear collection, the brand tribute to the world of couture

PARTNERSHIPS/COLLABORATIONS:

Herno & Carlo Volpi: FW 2017 / SS 2018 Herno Untitled is the capsule collection created in collaboration with the 2017 winner of Herno’s award for Who Is On Next.

Herno & Pierre-Louis Mascià: FW 2016 / FW 2017 Herno, a leader in luxury sportswear, created a co-branding with Pierre-Louis Mascià, one of the most talented graphic designer of the contemporary scene. The result is a capsule collection that merge Herno’ skillful mastery of tailoring and Mascià visionary aesthetics. Innovative patterns and an unconventional use of color are the main features of the collection.

Herno & M140: FW 2018 / SS 2019 The winner of the second edition of the Herno Award is MILANO140 (M140). Stefano Ghidotti & Michele Canziani, the two young designers behind M140, share the same philosophy as Herno, whose core values have lead to tremendous growth world-wide. Shared qualities include re-interpreting classic garments with a clean, contemporary flair – paring down to only what is essential, attention to detail and the importance of using only Italian fabrics. All adding up to the best of what Made-in-Italy stands for.

STORES: TBD

The company has stores in Europe, North America, and Asia, totalling ??? stores worldwide. Each store is characterized by the presence of the Herno Library.

PHILANTROPHY:

- Herno contributed to realize Adrian Paci’s exhibition in 2017 in Florence, “Di Queste Luci si Servirà la Notte”. Claudio Marenzi is strongly passionate to contemporary art, and this love is the same shared for his Company: from time to time he allows passionate “jumps”, financial and not only abstract in the parallel world of contemporary art.

- Herno and Miart, since 2015, have established the Herno Award. The prize is awarded to the stand with the best-designed exhibition, staged and made with attention to all the details, as an exhibition and that combines the high component of research, quality and accuracy to the detail. The research for absolute quality and know-how that are the basis of the best contemporary art and a product manufacturing excellence are only a necessary starting point, which must then be followed by an equally important ability to expose and capture 'attention, creating a perfect balance between creativity, aesthetics, functionality and usability. In this way, the Herno Award has parallel the objective of highlight the role - both historical and contemporary - the gallery as a place of production of knowledge through the format of the exhibition. "Penetrate a creator, interpret the essence in its artifacts making it accessible to the consumer. Here's the real similarity between the distribution process of art and fashion in my opinion. This award is intended open the discussion. "(Claudio Marenzi – Ceo Herno)

Awarding 2015 Herno prize: John Hilliard (Richard Saltoun Gallery, London) + Jon Rafman (Seventeen, London) Awarding 2016 Herno prize: Group exhibition (Wilkinson Gallery, London) Awarding 2017 Herno prize: Lucy Harvey (Anthony Reynolds Gallery, London) Awarding 2018 Herno prize: William Anastasi (Jocelyn Wolff Gallery, Paris)

Herno
OPENING SUMMARY:

Herno is an Italian apparel manufacturer founded in 1948 by Giuseppe Marenzi most known for its raincoats and down jackets. Herno took its name from the river Erno, which runs close to the company.

HISTORY:

Herno was founded in 1948 in Lesa, on the shores of Lake Maggiore, by Giuseppe Marenzi and his wife Alessandra Diana. It was just after the war and Giuseppe, having lost his job after years of working for Siai-Marchetti, which produced airplanes during World War II, sought a new job with a company that manufactured raincoats. Even though they were not actively recruiting, Giuseppe was hired. To make cotton waterproof, they used castor oil, the same substance used in making military aviation fuel, and it was thanks to his previous experience that Marenzi was able to supply the raw material that the business needed, not only to continue operating, but to actually increase its production. It did not take long for him to move from that job to establishing his own business. The climate around Lake Maggiore is extremely humid and rainy, so well made raincoats are in demand. Herno was thus founded on the basis of opportunity, intuition and inventiveness. Its story starts with water, water from Lake Maggiore and the river Erno. Raincoats, first for men and later for women, were Herno's first products. Then in the 1960s, cashmere coats were added with a focus on double-faced items and exports within Europe started during the same period. The collection diversified in the ten years that followed, and for women, it included jackets, suits and dresses too. In 1971, Giuseppe Marenzi was among the first in Italy to expand into the Japanese market opening the first Herno boutique in Osaka. The 1980s were spent consolidating its collections and markets and entering the new, strategic market of the United States. The company's know-how was valuable to the leading brands who were affirming their presence in the international markets and decided to entrust the production of their garments to the Lesa- based company. Production for third party brands characterized the 1990s along with activities to develop the Herno brand. Giuseppe Marenzi's story is followed by that of his son, Claudio, who is the current President and Managing Director of Herno. He joined the company in his early twenties, starting in production, moving on to the sales and marketing department and then to strategy. He was the one who led the changes that the business underwent in the years following 2000: the business needed new direction and, taking inspiration from the past, the Herno brand once again became the company's strategic focus. Herno brand is now an ambassador for luxury Italian goods in the world's leading stores, with 70% of revenue coming from exports.

SUSTAINABILITY:

All the sites in Lesa, where Herno headquarters are, are camouflaged into the landscape, with complete sympathy for the surrounding countryside, respecting the harmony of the mountains that surround the town. The nineteenth-century factory, completely restructured thanks to investment in photovoltaic technology, is entirely self-sufficient in terms of energy requirements, which have been gradually reduced by purchasing low energy consumption machinery.

In 2015 RadiciGroup, Eurojersey and Herno unveiled the first and only European scientific study of sustainability on a fashion garment. The three companies represent the excellence in the textile field, both in Italy and worldwide, and through this pioneering project they certified and tracked the environmental impact of a Herno man's jacket at all stages of its production process. This partnership has been established before the release of the Law n.221 of 28th December 2015, which regulates the environmental provisions to promote "green economy" measures and further seek to limit the excessive use of natural resources. The national voluntary scheme for labeling "Made Green in Italy" adopts the methodology of P.E.F. - Product Environmental Footprint. P.E.F. evaluates the environmental performances of the entire production cycle: - Identifies the value of Made in Italy from the yarn to the consumer wardrobe, through the entire production chain; - Certifies the final Herno jacket as 100% Made in Italy; - Declares the environmental performance of this product to the final consumer; - Confirms the Italian leadership in the textile technological innovation. The scientific evaluation of this study takes into consideration specific impact categories: PRIMARY ENERGY CONSUMPTION - CLIMATE CHANGES - REDUCING OZONE LAYER - ACIDIFICATION - SEE and TERRESTRIAL EUTROPHICATION - CARCINOGENIC EFFECTS on HUMAN - TOXICITY NOT CARCINOGENIC on HUMAN - ECOTOXICITY - SMOG – IODIZE RADIATION - DEPLETION Of SOIL - WATER RESOURCE DEPLETION. Among the most explicative results: - Water resource depletion jacket’s contribution less than 0,4% compared with the amount indicator of a year consumption made by an European citizen; - A garment made in China produced 92% of CO2 emissions, than the one made in Italy; - The COMIL (environmental cost) of a jacket made in China amounts to 5.22 euro vs. 1.97 euro of the one made in Italy (in China the jacket may cost less as production, but it costs more and more in terms of environmental impact : 165% more than the jacket made in Italy).

LABELS:

- Herno: main line for men and women (since 1948) - Herno Laminar: sartorial engineering line for men and women. Technology is at the service of fashion: active sport performance for items with urban taste - Herno Kids: kidswear collection - Herno Signature: womenswear collection, the brand tribute to the world of couture

PARTNERSHIPS/COLLABORATIONS:

Herno & Carlo Volpi: FW 2017 / SS 2018 Herno Untitled is the capsule collection created in collaboration with the 2017 winner of Herno’s award for Who Is On Next.

Herno & Pierre-Louis Mascià: FW 2016 / FW 2017 Herno, a leader in luxury sportswear, created a co-branding with Pierre-Louis Mascià, one of the most talented graphic designer of the contemporary scene. The result is a capsule collection that merge Herno’ skillful mastery of tailoring and Mascià visionary aesthetics. Innovative patterns and an unconventional use of color are the main features of the collection.

Herno & M140: FW 2018 / SS 2019 The winner of the second edition of the Herno Award is MILANO140 (M140). Stefano Ghidotti & Michele Canziani, the two young designers behind M140, share the same philosophy as Herno, whose core values have lead to tremendous growth world-wide. Shared qualities include re-interpreting classic garments with a clean, contemporary flair – paring down to only what is essential, attention to detail and the importance of using only Italian fabrics. All adding up to the best of what Made-in-Italy stands for.

STORES: TBD

The company has stores in Europe, North America, and Asia, totalling ??? stores worldwide. Each store is characterized by the presence of the Herno Library.

PHILANTROPHY:

- Herno contributed to realize Adrian Paci’s exhibition in 2017 in Florence, “Di Queste Luci si Servirà la Notte”. Claudio Marenzi is strongly passionate to contemporary art, and this love is the same shared for his Company: from time to time he allows passionate “jumps”, financial and not only abstract in the parallel world of contemporary art.

- Herno and Miart, since 2015, have established the Herno Award. The prize is awarded to the stand with the best-designed exhibition, staged and made with attention to all the details, as an exhibition and that combines the high component of research, quality and accuracy to the detail. The research for absolute quality and know-how that are the basis of the best contemporary art and a product manufacturing excellence are only a necessary starting point, which must then be followed by an equally important ability to expose and capture 'attention, creating a perfect balance between creativity, aesthetics, functionality and usability. In this way, the Herno Award has parallel the objective of highlight the role - both historical and contemporary - the gallery as a place of production of knowledge through the format of the exhibition. "Penetrate a creator, interpret the essence in its artifacts making it accessible to the consumer. Here's the real similarity between the distribution process of art and fashion in my opinion. This award is intended open the discussion. "(Claudio Marenzi – Ceo Herno)

Awarding 2015 Herno prize: John Hilliard (Richard Saltoun Gallery, London) + Jon Rafman (Seventeen, London) Awarding 2016 Herno prize: Group exhibition (Wilkinson Gallery, London) Awarding 2017 Herno prize: Lucy Harvey (Anthony Reynolds Gallery, London) Awarding 2018 Herno prize: William Anastasi (Jocelyn Wolff Gallery, Paris)