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The Beardie is medium-sized and very agile. A herding dog of great stamina and high intelligence, the Beardie is noted for its shaggy coat and never flagging wagging tail. Related to the Old English Sheepdog the Beardie has a broad head, short muzzle and a shaggy coat all over - including under the chin - which is where the nickname Beardie came from.

Hardy and active, but not massive, the Beardie is considered to be a robust and generally healthy dog.

They have a dense, weatherproof outer coat with a thick, soft undercoat. Its head and teeth are large. The eyes are wide set and high on the head, and match color with its coat. The ears are close to the head with a long tail carried low unless the dog is excited.

Their cost color changes several times over their lifetime. Puppies are usually born black, brown, fawn or blue. The coat fades to light gray or cream. As the dogs mature, they darken to their adult coat in any of the four colors, black (from black to slate), brown (from dark brown or milk chocolate to gingery red), blue (from steel blue to silver), or fawn (cinnamon to champagne). The final coat color is somewhere between the puppy coat and the yearling coat. There will also likely have white markings of some sort.

The Beardie has unusual eye colors. In general, the eye color usually matches the coat color - for instance - Black and Brown Beardies have brown eyes, the Blues have smoky or grayish-blue eyes and the Fawns sport a lighter brown eye which sometimes has a hint of hazel in it.

Beardies can and do sleep outdoors and also make excellent farm dogs. They are good to go in windy, rugged or wet areas since the dogs are out in all weather conditions to herd. It does not like to be confined and should have a place to run off of its lead. The Beardie loves to be outdoors, but also wants his place inside with his family (pack). These dogs are notorious escape artists so it's best to make sure they are happy and well exercised.

Coat Description The Beardie's shaggy coat is flat, harsh and shaggy, and can be slightly wavy but not curly, with the undercoat soft, furry and close. The outer coat is flat, harsh, strong and shaggy and falls naturally to either side. The weatherproof outer coat is long and dense, providing protection against all weather conditions.

Life Span:12 - 14 years - although some have lived a lot longer

Litter Size:4 - 12 average 7 puppies

Group:Herding, Pastoral

Recognized By:CKC, FCI, AKC, UKC, ANKC, NKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR

Color:Black, Brown, Blue, or Fawn

Hair Length:Long

Size:Medium

Shedding: NONE

Male Height:20 - 22 inches ( 51 - 56 cms) at the shoulder

Male Weight:35 - 55 pounds (16 - 25 kg) depending on height

Female Height:20 - 22 inches ( 51 - 56 cms) at the shoulder

Female Weight:35 - 55 pounds (16 - 25 kg) depending on height

Living Area:Not recommended for apartment life, they are best on a farm or acreage where they have the room to run and exercise with their handlers. They are highly active even indoors where they prefer to be with their humans. History The Bearded Collie (first introduced into Scotland in 1514) was developed in Scotland as a herding dog with ancestors including herding dogs from the European continent - the Poland Lowland Sheepdog (Polski Owzcarek Nizinny) and the Komondor, blended with sheep herding dogs in the British Isles. The Bearded Collie is in all likelihood also related to the bobtail (Old English Sheepdog).

It was developed as an independent worker, capable of thinking on its own and making decisions about the safety of their flocks without depending on the shepherd who might be miles away. Beardie's have never brought home a wrong sheep despite the practice of flocks intermingling while out to pasture. The Beardie is still used as a shepherd's helpmate in Scotland, and in the U.S.

The breed almost disappeared in the early part of the twentieth century, but was rescued through mating a pair in 1944. Even today, it isn't very widespread and it's still fairly rare in the United States. The first US litter of Beardies was whelped in 1967.

G.O. Willison brought the breed to recognition by The Kennel Club of Great Britain in 1959. The breed was officially recognized by the AKC in 1977. Temperament This dog is without a doubt one of the largest clowns in the canine world. Many seem to think he has pogo sticks in his legs, or at the very least was crossed with a grass hopper. His bounce and charm are addicting and he is always joyous and affectionate. Playful and a tad cheeky, his tail is always wagging. He has a lovely sense of humour and that combined with his high energy levels make for some pretty funny episodes. Males tend to be more outgoing and bold, while females are calmer and more submissive.

He's really terrific with kids and thrives, NEEDS to be with people. He needs to be a part of the family unit and would wither without human contact. If he is left alone without human contact and has nothing to do, he will get into trouble. He certainly can be trained to do just about anything, but not to be a watch dog. Noisy barkers yes, but not watch dogs. Their forte is herding animals - and their people (with a grin!) You don't need a doorbell when living with a Beardie.

Beardies jump and can even clear very high fences, if they don't have something to do that appeals to them. They'll also jump up to greet you, kiss your nose and look you straight in the eye. Great trick, but it can scare little ones and others who aren't used to such enthusiastic greetings.

This breed does well at intermingling with other animals particularly if they were raised with them. Some can be bossy about possessions and hoard all the toys in their den, and being herding dogs, they will chase things if tempted.

The Beardie may have gotten one of its other names - bouncing beardie - because when working in thick undergrowth on a hill, they bounce to catch sight of their sheep. It's also speculated this name came from the way they face a stubborn ewe, barking and bouncing on the forelegs. The bearded moves stock using body, bark and bounce. Very few beardies show "eye" when working, most are usually upright.

Health Problems Generally a quite hardy breed, the Beardie does have some special medical conditions to be aware of:

Cataracts - any opacity or loss of transparency of the lens of the eye.

Corneal dystrophy - an inherited abnormality that affects one or more layers of the cornea.

Pemphigus foliaceus - an abnormal immune response to normal components of the skin, resulting in separation of cells. This leads to blisters, pustules, and crusting erosions in the skin.

Progressive Retinal Atrophy: manifests as night blindness, slowly progresses to total blindness.

Black hair follicular dysplasia - a rare inherited disorder seen in mixed-breed and purebred dogs. Hair loss occurs at a very early age in black areas on black, or black and white dogs.

von Willebrands disease - a common, usually mild, inherited bleeding disorder in people and in dogs. It is caused by a lack of von Willebrand factor (vWF), which plays an essential role in the blood clotting process.

Food sensitivities and Allergies also seem to be a problem for this breed. So do not give it scraps of food from the table.

They are also extremely sound sensitive to things like thunder or large trucks. Have your Beardie Vet checked for Hypothyroidism. Grooming Beardies need lots of grooming. And if you take one look at their coats, you will know why. Either you will have to learn to groom like a pro, have them groomed by a pro or clip all that shaggy hair.

Grooming can take an average of one and a half to two hours or more per week, and you will need the following grooming supplies: good brushes, combs, a grooming table, nail clippers, etc. If you don't maintain the grooming you will end up with a matted mess that can lead to skin and other health problems. Long hair means things you'd rather not have in the house will be brought in with your Beardie. Leaves, sticks, mud and other things your dog has either rolled in or rubbed up against, not to mention any crawlies that took a fancy to being buried in your dog's coat.

Groomed properly, they shed minimally. Most of the dead hair will is removed when you comb and brush them out. The absolute worst time for shedding is when they lose the puppy coat (between 9 - 18 months). This stage lasts about three months and your dog loses hair from top to bottom or from front to rear. Introduce your Beardie to hair care really early. Puppies can be groomed in one minute flat - the general idea being to get them used to being still for longer periods of time. This is essential as when they are adults they need to be able to accept at least an hour or brushing and combing. And if you show, the time spent is even longer. Groom thoroughly at least once a week, more often during your puppy's shed. Lay your dog on its side then mist with some anti-tangle spray. What follows next is something called line brushing. Brush hair up with a bristle or pin brush, then brush hair back down a few inches at a time. If you encounter mats, work them out with the spray and your fingers, or use a mat rake. When you are done, you should be able to get a comb through his coat quite easily. Make certain to check for ticks during tick season and pay attention to the length of the toenails. If they run on hard surfaces a lot, they will wear their own nails down. But if not, then you will either have to clip them yourself, or have a professional do it for you.

Exercise: Beardies are sometimes energetic but can be lazy.

Beardies have no end to their energy both indoors and out. If left to their own devices, they will make up their own games to play and chew on whatever they can find - if not jump fence and take off. Outside they will entertain themselves by digging holes. The goal is to stimulate both the mind and the body of your Beardie - engage his limitless curiosity and high intelligence.

An ideal workout for your Beardie if you don't run sheep or other livestock, would be a rousing game of fetch with balls or a Frisbee, throw in some swimming, running along side you while you bike and hiking. Whatever it is you choose to do physically, just include your Beardie. They're happiest when doing things with you and are up for anything from wrestling to swimming.

The best exercise regimen for your Beardie would be at least two 45 minute walks a day, no matter what the weather may be. While you may not be too happy with the weather, your dog doesn't mind in the least. This may vary depending on your dog, as each one does have its own personality.

While on your walks try to have about 30 minutes full tilt running off leash and include a game of fetch or even a tug of war. You need to also include at least 20 minutes of obedience training, trick training or other activities that keep your dog's mind sharp. If he's mentally stimulated he's happy. If he's happy, he's well-behaved.

If you don't think what you are doing is enough for your dog, don't increase the physical part of your routine, increase the educational portion instead. That would mean more obedience training, tricks - things to keep his mind busy - to stretch his mental limits. Working his mind will make him more tired than working his body - remember, their stamina is phenomenal. And they ALWAYS have energy to spare, even if you don't!

Training The Bearded Collie is very intelligent and quick to learn. However, he is an independent thinker and can be very stubborn. Obedience training must be fun, consistent and fair. It should also start at a young age and continue into adulthood.

These dogs can be master manipulators, and are very adept at getting their own way. The hardest thing about owning a Beardie is not teaching him the wrong things. If you don't stay mentally one step ahead of your Beardie, your Beardie will do a very good job of training you.

Your youngster is like a 2 year old child pushing his luck to see what he can get away with. If you do let him get his way, you will eventually end up with about 50 lbs of dog who 'won't walk on a leash' or 'doesn't like to be brushed' because when he was younger he found out that throwing a tantrum got him out of doing anything you wanted him to do. This behavior often can reappear around the teenage stage when they start feeling full of themselves and test to see who's in charge.

This is about the time when your pup also becomes deaf to your commands. Not literally, but he's chosen to ignore you to see how far he can push you. Had the experience where you've said "come" over and over, and still nothing? Well, he's just had a successful training session. He's trained you to keep on asking for something while he sits there. He'll respond eventually when you lose your cool and change your tone and your attitude.

If you want your dog to obey on the first command, don't repeat a command while your dog ignores you. Give the command once, and if he doesn't respond, go to him, take him by the collar. Repeat the command and then physically help him obey. If you never repeat a command without using the collar, he will realize he might as well obey the first time.

Description The Cardigan Welsh Corgi is a small herding dog with a straight, weather-proof coat accented by a heavy ruff around the neck and a pair of jodphur-like tufts of fur near the hind legs. Its bone structure and general proportions are reminiscent of a Dachshund, and some breeders speculate that the Cardi has some Dachsund heritage from its largely mysterious origins (before its arrival in Wales.)

The Cardi is often confused with its closest relative, the Pembroke Welsh Corgi. Although significant genetic differences exist between the two (breeders now believe that the Pembroke Corgi was crossed with Norwegian breeds during Viking invasions of England and Wales), the most visible difference is in the tail: Pembroke Welsh Corgis have very short of nonexistet tails, while the Cardigan Welsh Corgi has a long and ample one.

Coat Description The Cardigan Welsh Corgi has a double coat. The outer coat is straight, of medium length, and weatherproof, while the inner coat is softer and meant to insulate the Cardi from extremes of temperature during the winter. The coat is slightly thicker around the neck and rear legs, giving the Cardi its distinctive appearance.

Life Span:12-14 years

Litter Size:5-7 puppies

Group:Herding

Recognized By:CKC, FCI, AKC, UKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR

Color:Red, Brindle, Black/Tan, Black, Blue/Tan, Blue. All-white Corgis are not considered acceptable under AKC standards.

Hair Length:Medium

Size:Medium

Shedding:Lite Shed

Male Height:10.5-12.5 in (26-31 cm)

Male Weight:30-38 lbs (14-17 kg)

Female Height:10.5-12.5 in (26-31 cm)

Female Weight:25-34 lbs (11-15 kg)

Living Area:Cardis will usually do well in an urban or suburban setting if given enough attention from their human masters. The breed is very versatile, having been used traditionally for both herding and companionship purposes, and will be happy in whatever setting you place him or her in. However, care should be taken when integrating your Cardi with other household animals in a smaller apartment or house--Cardis can become anti-social when exposed to animals that they haven't known from an early age, and it may take them time to get used to their new companions. Outdoor animals (for rural Cardi owners) will be less of a problem, as the Cardi's instincts generally tell it to ignore or peaceably manage such animals. Energy Level:

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Hot Weather: Description The Cardigan Welsh Corgi is a small herding dog with a straight, weather-proof coat accented by a heavy ruff around the neck and a pair of jodphur-like tufts of fur near the hind legs. Its bone structure and general proportions are reminiscent of a Dachshund, and some breeders speculate that the Cardi has some Dachsund heritage from its largely mysterious origins (before its arrival in Wales.)

The Cardi is often confused with its closest relative, the Pembroke Welsh Corgi. Although significant genetic differences exist between the two (breeders now believe that the Pembroke Corgi was crossed with Norwegian breeds during Viking invasions of England and Wales), the most visible difference is in the tail: Pembroke Welsh Corgis have very short of nonexistet tails, while the Cardigan Welsh Corgi has a long and ample one.

Coat Description The Cardigan Welsh Corgi has a double coat. The outer coat is straight, of medium length, and weatherproof, while the inner coat is softer and meant to insulate the Cardi from extremes of temperature during the winter. The coat is slightly thicker around the neck and rear legs, giving the Cardi its distinctive appearance.

History Cardigan Welsh Corgis are one of the oldest breeds in the United Kingdom, with early examples of the breed reported in Wales some three thousand years ago. The Cardi was originally used simply to protect herds of cattle en route from Wales to English markets, but in time the early Welsh drovers realized the utility of the Cardi as a herder and began using the breed in this capacity. A later cross with traditional Welsh sheepdogs increased the Cardi's herding capabilities still further, resulting in the Cardigan Welsh Cardi as we know it today.

The original Cardigan Welsh Corgi breed was split during Viking invasions near the end of the first millennium AD, when members of the Spitz breed (which accompanied the Vikings) cross-bred with original Welsh Corgis, resulting in two different strains: the Cardigan Welsh Corgi and the closely-related Pembroke Welsh Corgi. Although some cross-breeding between these two distinct varieties of Corgi occurred--encouraged by the refusal of English kennel clubs at the start of the twentieth century to consider the Pembroke and the Cardi as two distinct breeds--the breeds were finally separated in 1934, and the breed lines have remained reasonably pure ever since.

Temperament Cardis are above all active. They have a naturally high energy level (a side effect of their long history as herding dogs), and they're willing to use this energy as often as possible. Thankfully, they aren't nervous as a rule--a problem with many equally-energetic terrier breeds--and will only bark at strangers and others that they perceive as immediate threats. Their destructive behavior when they feel themselves abandoned by their humans is also minimal, although sometimes surprisingly effective (given the Cardi's inherent intelligence.)

Cardis love problem-solving and other intellectual challenges, and are natural candidates for heavy obedience training and trick-performing. This intelligence isn't coupled with much native skittishness or aggressiveness, however (with one exception, as we'll see), which makes the dogs fairly stable, ideal household pets. Their intelligence needs to be constantly exercised, however, or Cardis will start becoming restless and will start turning their intelligence toward what one might call "bad ends" (stealing food, finding their way out of closed apartments or yards, and other unwanted behavior.)

One serious problem with the breed's temperament is, to paraphrase Sartre, the problem of Other Dogs--the Cardi's wariness and aggressiveness when faced with other dogs. This is a natural side effect of the dog's history--herding dogs were frequently responsible for driving off any predatory dogs and wolves who threatened the flock--but that doesn't make it any less irritating or dangerous for you as a Cardi owner. You'll want to carefully supervise your dog in order to prevent any fights with other dogs which could result in injury either to the other dog or to your own. Other animals and children are less of a problem--the Cardi tends to perceive them as members of the flock, rather than as predators--and Cardis will generally protect and socialize well with them.

Health Problems Cardis are an extremely healthy breed compared to other dogs of comparable size and grouping. hip dysplasia is potential problem, as are mild eye problems ( Glaucoma and Progressive Retinal Atrophy in particular) in later years. The most dangerous ailment a Cardi faces, however, is degenerative myelopathy (DM), a spinal complaint most commonly found in German Shepherds. Although DM is a moderately rare condition, it's still a good idea to start having your Cardi checked by a vet starting at around five years of age.

Grooming Cardigan Welsh Corgis do not require much grooming, as a rule. Two sessions of brushing a week should suffice to remove unwanted dead hair, which will not only keep your dog clean, but will minimize shedding (which happens seasonally, but moderately.) During the shedding season, it's often a good idea to start brushing the Cardi on a daily basis rather than a bi-weekly, but if you don't mind cleaning up the extra hair there's no major health reason to brush your Cardi that frequently.

Bathing should be kept to a minimum with the Cardi--their coats are naturally weatherproof, and too-frequent bathing can result in a lessening of this weather-resistant capacity. Too-frequent bathing can also result in a lessening of one of the best features of the Cardigan Welsh Corgi's coat--its relative lack of dog odor. Bathing not only brings out that dog odor, but progressively erodes the special oils that keep the Cardi's coat generally free of unpleasant smells. So don't do it--or at least don't do it more than once a twice or year, and only when the dog seems to truly need it. (Fortunately, the Cardi is a naturally clean breed of dog with an authentic dislike of messiness, and they'll take care of most small to medium sized messes on their fur or person on their own. You'll only have to step in for the large messes--or for the messes the Cardi simply doesn't notice or mind.)

One note related to the overall appearance of your dog: Cardis have a tendency toward overeating and obesity--if you let them overeat. In order to keep your dog looking his or her best--and in order to maintain his or her long-term health--make sure to manage the Cardi's diet carefully (and make sure to keep any fattening treats well out of reach of your intelligent, problem-solving dog.)

Exercise The Cardigan Welsh Corgi was essentially bred for exercise--the daily exercise of herding cattle along the long roads from Wales to England--and the breed's high energy level remains to this day. Because of this native energy, one could argue that you don't need to do a great deal to exercise your Cardi. They're very good at amusing themselves indoors, require only one or two walks a day, and don't tend to "act out" in destructive ways when they don't get outside often enough. It seems, on the surface, like this is the perfect low-maintenance breed.

But the truth is that the Cardi requires a higher level of dedication than this. For one, the Cardi's metabolism can't quite match its energy level when the Cardi is kept indoors most of the time--which is why Cardis have a tendency toward obesity and overeating. You'll need to exercise your Cardi in order to minimize these problems and keep your Cardi not only trim, but healthy.

Some extra walking will do the trick for this if you're in an urban area, coupled with some off-leash time at a nearby park--if your Cardi is generally well-trained and obedient, you can trust him or her off-leash for surprisingly long periods of time without any unwanted chasing or fighting behavior. (After all, Cardis were bred to stay with herds for long cattle drives--they would hardly be useful for this purpose if they instinctively darted at every rat or squirrel they saw along the road from Wales.) If you're in a rural area, take every opportunity you can to give your Cardi some off-leash time and some exercise in his larger environment. The exception to this rule comes when you're in an area with other dogs--the Cardi's aggressiveness toward strange dogs precludes off-leash exercise in these situations, unless you enjoy dragging a snarling, growling dog back from the brink of a fight.

The Cardi's active and furious intelligence also requires you to give the Cardi more exercise and stimulation that you might think strictly necessary. The Cardis are extremely smart, problem-solving dogs, and if left alone their exercise might turn toward directions and goals that you, as a homeowner, don't particularly like: figuring out how to get those treats out of the doggie jar on the kitchen counter, for example, or other unintentionally destructive acts. By focusing on active, energetic training--tricks, ball-chasing, and other stimulating yet tiring activities in particular--you can keep your Cardi fit while at the same time keep his or her intelligence too occupied to focus on the problems that you don't particularly want him or her to solve.

Training Cardis are highly intelligent, highly athletic, and highly trainable--providing that the trainer knows what he or she is doing.

Cardis' natural cleanliness makes them easy to housetrain as puppies, and their natural abilities with problem-solving makes them ideal candidates for teaching both basic commands (heel, sit, and the like) as well as more complicated commands and tricks. As with all dog training, it's most effective to use positive methods of reinforcement (treats and rewards of attention and play) as opposed to negative methods (punishment or harsh language)--the Cardi's natural intelligence will naturally latch on to the gist of the trick or command he or she is being taught, and more than likely the knowledge itself (and the dog's pride in it) will be its own reward. (If you do offer a food reward, however, make sure that you do so only sparingly--Cardis have a tendency to obesity as a breed, and it's difficult to stop offering food rewards for successful obedience once you start offering them.)

In fact, Cardis are so trainable--and so instinctively good at their basic, instinctual drives toward herding behavior--that it's a good idea to continue training them and offering intellectual challenges long after basic obedience is achieved. This isn't just fun for you and your dog, but it's also practical: the Cardi's basic herding behavior involves biting, nipping, and occasional barking, and if you don't provide the Cardi with intellectual challenges to distract from those basic drives, the Cardi will probably fall back on them simply to keep his or her active brain busy. So keep your Cardi well-trained and be willing to constantly introduce new challenges into his or her environment in order to spare yourself some occasional grief at your Cardi's sometimes overabundant energy.

Because of their basic herding instincts, Cardis are exceptionally good with children and can often act as caretakers and protectors for extremely young family members. However, Cardis are not quite so good with other household animals, and they should be introduced to their prospective housemates at an early age in order to ensure adequate socialization and a minimum of dominance struggling or unwanted "herding" behavior. This holds especially true with other dogs--socialization with other household dogs should be done very, very early, and it's probably a good idea to tell your dog-owning friends to leave their canine pals at home when they come for a visit, no matter how well-trained your Cardi might be.

Australian Cattle Dog Australian Shepherd Beauceron Belgian Malinois Belgian Sheepdog Belgian Tervuren Border Collie Bouvier des Flandres Briard Canaan Dog Cardigan Welsh Corgi Collie German Shepherd Dog Old English Sheepdog Norwegian Buhund Pembroke Welsh Corgi Polish Lowland Puli Pyrenean Shepherd i will soon give discriptions about these dogs too