User:Cepal67/Josef Rakoncaj

Josef Rakoncaj, nicknamed Rak (means "crayfish" in Czech) (* 6. April 1951 in Dvůr Králové) is one of the most successful Czech climbers, climbing coach, writer of climbing books and a businessman making special clothing and equipment for Backpacking (hiking) and climbing. He is married with children (son Lukáš and daughter Lucie), one of his hobbies is Ultralight aviation. He represented the ČSSR since 1975 in climbing. In the sandstone of Bohemian Paradise he made a number of first ascents since 1976. In the register of climbing routes in Czech Republic he has registered 54 first ascents. He reached the peak of K2 in 1983 and again 3 years later in 1986, becoming the first human ever to summit this mountain twice.

Selected successful summits

 * 1972 – Matterhorn – north wall
 * 1975 – traverse Koshtan-Tau (5145m) – Dykh-Tau (5198m), (Caucasus)
 * 1976 – Trollryggen north wall of Trolls – first winter ascent via Rimon route – Norway
 * 1976 – Shkhara (Caucasus), first ascent via south wall
 * 1977 – Kalanka – 6931 m – Garhwal Himal – prvovýstup severní stěnou
 * 1978 – Oshanin Peak 6320m – Pamir – first ascent NE wall alpine style, 53 rope lengths, 6 days, with Slavo Drlík
 * 1980 – Mt. Agner – N wall, Dolomites – first winter ascent via Messner's route
 * 1980 – Yerupaja – 6630 m – Peru – via western wall
 * 1981 – Nanda Devi – 7816 m – Garhwal Himal – first ascent via northern column
 * 1982 – Aiguille du Plan, first winter ascent of couloirs Gabarrou and Petit Dru, northern wall, Big couloir

Eight-thousander ascents
In 1986 as first The World he summited K2 second time. Together with Radek Jaroš he belongs amongst the most successful Czech climbers in the number of Eight-thousander summits.


 * 1983 K2, 8611 m – via northern column (bivouac 50 m under the summit)
 * 1984 Lhotse, 8383 m – first ascent via southern wall
 * 1985 Dhaulagiri, 8167 m – attempt – SW pillar in alpine style, reached 6800 m
 * 1986 K2, 8611 m – via Abruzzi ridge in alpine style
 * 1986 Broad Peak, 8047 m – solo via west wall in alpine style
 * 1987 Mount Everest, 8850 m – attempt – in SW wall, reached 8300 m
 * 1987 Mount Everest, 8850 m – attempt – in N wall, reached 8650 m
 * 1988 Annapurna, 8091 m – southern wall – Bonington's route
 * 1989 Manaslu, 8163 m – southern wall
 * 1990 Cho Oyu, 8201 m – western wall in alpine style
 * 1990 Shishapangma, 8046 m – first ascent via northern wall in alpine style
 * 1992 Nanga Parbat, 8125 m – western (Diamiran) wall, Kinshofer's route
 * 1993 Makalu, 8463 m – attempt – via Kukuczka's route, reached 8100 m
 * 1994 Mount Everest, 8850 m – attempt – northern wall, reached 7500 m
 * 1995 Kangchenjunga, 8586 m – attempt – southern wall, reached 8000 m

Company Sir Joseph
Josef Rakoncaj founded and owns the family business Sir Joseph. The company history goes back to 1971 when he started sewing his own climbing outfits, first just for himself, but later also for fellow climbers and friends. He utilised his own rich expedition experience to alter the cuts, to add creative practical details helping the movement in difficult climbing terrains and at high altitudes, also searched for new innovative materials. Immediately after the Velvet Revolution he set off the official business. First in the tiny conditions with the seamstresses working in their homes. His products quickly grew popularity not just in Czech Republic, but also abroad. That allowed for growth and the manufacture was built. in 1994 the company employed Josef's son Lukáš and in 2001 also hist daughter Lucie.

Literature

 * RAKONCAJ, JASANSKÝ: Tulákem ve větru Himálaje, Kruh Hradec Králové, 1990, 1.edition, 264 pages
 * Daniel Polman: Pořád blbě není nikde, interview in magazine Lidé a hory, 3/2016, page 19-25
 * RAKONCAJ, JASANSKÝ: Tulákem ve větru Himálaje, Kruh Hradec Králové, 1990, 1.edition, 264 pages
 * Daniel Polman: Pořád blbě není nikde, interview in magazine Lidé a hory, 3/2016, page 19-25
 * Daniel Polman: Pořád blbě není nikde, interview in magazine Lidé a hory, 3/2016, page 19-25

External references

 * Josef Rakoncaj v Kdo byl kdo v našich dějinách ve 20. století
 * Interview by Lukáš Pollert with Joska Rakoncaj: http://www.lezec.cz/clanek.php?key=2346
 * Personalities of Czech sport, Josef Rakoncaj: https://web.archive.org/web/20070927033835/http://www.sportovci.cz/php/zobrazit.php?ru=0&clanek=796
 * Interview with J. Rakoncaj
 * Josef Rakoncaj (interview from the Czech TV programme "Na plovárně" ("at the swimming pool")) - video on-line in ČT archive
 * Josef Rakoncaj in VeselyVylet.cz

