User:Davidgblackburn/New sandbox

The English colony began appearing at Pau...



= The reopening of the Pyrenees and Thermal Stations to tourism, 1814 = Joseph Duloum's intensive study of Pyrenean tourism cites 19th century travel journals, or guides, as the reason for the return of British tourists after the reopening of the Pyrennees by Wellington. Duloum recaps some of these guides, which are written from different perspectives and by their nature typically included the opinions of the authors.

John Milford, 1814
A recent graduate of St. John's College, Cambridge, John Milford, began his grand tour during the Peninsular War, disembarking in Lisbon and following the reopened path up to Saint-Jean-de-Luz, where a friend had a post with at Wellington's headquarters. He does not state whether he met Wellington. Milford remained with headquarters, joining it along with the baggage from Saint-Jean-de-Luz at Saint-Sever, then to Aire through to Toulouse, returning to Bordeaux with the troops in May 1814. It is from Bordeaux that Milford begins his published journal descending to Pau via Aire before continuing east through the Pyrenees. "Pau is a neat town, of considerable size and delightfully situated. It stands on an eminence, above a charming valley, through which the river Gave flows in a most picturesque manner, dividing itself into meandering rivulets, which leave many a little island in their course. The lower Pyrenees rise with majesty from the luxurious vale and form a romantic boundary to the enchanting picture."

Joseph Hardy, Esq., 1825
In his 1825 book, "A Picturesque and Descriptive Tour in the Mountains of the High Pyrenees comprising Twenty-Four Views of the Most Interesting Scenes", Joseph Hardy fancied himself transported into a fairyland during his visit to the high Pyrenees. He states some English families made Pau their winter home and moved into the Pyrenees during the summer months. He describes work on the chateau as destructive rather than restorative. There is no mention of soldiers. His extraordinary book of aquatint engravings could have tempted tourists to follow his visit to the Haute-Pyrenees.

Doctor James Clark, 1829
Sir Doctor James Clark, 1st Baronet, who would become the physician for Queen Victoria and Prince Albert, became well known for his early study of thermal stations published in 1820, "Medical Notes on Climate, Diseases, Hospitals, and Medical Schools in France, Italy, and Switzerland, comprising an Inquiry into the Effects of a Residence in the South of Europe in Cases of Pulmonary Consumption". Clark's second publication in 1829, "The Influence of Climate in the Prevention and Cure of Chronic Diseases, more particularly of the Chest and Digestive Organs", included a chapter "Climate of Pau" written by Dr. James Playfair, who stated Pau was the best thermal station in France due to its proximity to Pyrenean mineral waters; however, he did not recommend Pau for rheumatism or tuberculosis.

James Erskine Murray, 1835
James Erskine Murrays, "A Summer in the Pyrenees" explores what he discribes a scarcely visited mountain range beginning at Pau in the summer of 1835, that he considers of historical importance and situated over a high terrace overlooking the Gave and commanding a fine prospect of the surrounding country. He describes Pau as a favorite place of exile to those English seeking an economical place with nice climate. He describes the town as sometimes abommably dirty, sadly deteriorating the purity of the mountain air, recommending the south side of the Rue Royale. ''Below is the extensive and wooded plain of the Gave, broad and open to the east and west, where the windings of the river are traced and lost in the distance, but narrowed and contracted to a mile in breath opposite to the town by the numerous low hills which, running out laterally from the mountains, and divided into numberless small valleys, ravines and dells, resemble a succession of mighty buttresses, intended as a support for the great mountains behind them. These hills, chequered with copses, and the vineyards from which the red and white wines of Jurançon are produced, and adorned with country houses,-border the noble plains beneath. Higher and more distant hills succeed them; and, above the whole is seen one long-continued range of summits, of most fantastic forms, from the Pic du Midi de Bigorre,-forming a promontory on the east,-to the inferior mountains which, beyond the valley d'Aspe, gradually decrease in height as the approach the ocean. Among the most distant summits to the east may be distinguished the glaciers of the Neouville [sic] and the Vignemale; sparkling in the sun; and at the head of the valley d'Ossau, which opens immediately to the south of Pau, the pic de Gers, the masses of the Eaux Bonnes, and the gigantic fork of the Pic du Midi d'Ossau, the most picturesque-looking of all the Pyreneans mountains, are conspicuous in the outline of the magnificent and unequalled amphitheater.'' Murray describes the society as one of chance visitors, limited and seldom pleasant or agreeable. However, he enjoyed time spent with Hanoverian Karl Willhelm Baron von Maydell a colonel at Waterloo, who died at Pau in 1840.

Mary Theresa Boddington, July 1835 - March 1836
The Irish wife of a London wine merchant to the West Indies, well-travelled Mrs. Boddington describes in her 1837 publication, "Sketches in the Pyrenees", her first day at Pau: ''A long balcony commands all the advantages of the splendid position which the castle rejoices in, - a position that may boldly enter the lists with any thing in any country, at least that I know of. I mean any thing of similar or approaching character[...] It recalls Berne (Switzerland), or rather the view from it; but the tone of coulouring is more cheerful, and the long withdrawing vale that hides itself in the mountains, has still more depth and warmth than even the fine view from the cathedral platform of the latter place.[...]there is a prodigious flush and fulness of beauty here, the form and wooding of the côteaux leave nothing to be wished for, and the fine mixture of southern skies and southern vegetation with the young verdure of moister latitudes is perfectly delicious.  and then sunset from the chateau: The stream of orange light - not merely coulour, but live light - which the sun has left behind it, spreads over the whole western heavens, but divided by the broad beams that still ray out from its golden bed. The mountains to the south-east gather shadows; while the river, that winds slowly through its dark and gracefully tufted banks, catches a pal silvery shine, which, as it flows onwards to the west, changes to the amber of the sky.[...]Sweet and gracious magic! Beautiful and innocent witchcraft of the twilight hour! I feel while I watch your changeful necromancy as if a fresh spring had burst out in my heart and the gift of belief had come again with it; the charming belief in all that bright phantasma which experience calls visions, but which are truths - welcome and precious to the fancy.'' Mrs. Boddington identifies Pau as a portal to the healing waters of the Pyrenees and an English colony: ''The rambling English seem to love Pau, and some have chosen it for their residence. It has many good houses in airy and agreeable - sometimes splendid positions, a few handsome hotels, reasonable markets abundantly supplied, delicious walks and rides, a charming climate, romance in the mountains, and real life in the mountain baths; with a reputation for winter gaiety, and social intercourse on pleasant terms.'' Mrs. Boddington wintered from a house on the hill overlooking Gelos, describing the local people as faithful, poor, carefree and generous. She does not mentioning former soldiers at Pau and her two-volume guide has no mention of Wellington or his Pyrenean campaign.<

William Oliver (1804-1853), 1843
William Oliver published a series of 24 colored lithographs in 1843.