User:Fascias 4 u/sandbox

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Finlock gutters, also known as concrete gutters, after the second world war the UK had a sever shortage of steel therefore guttering couldn't be constructed so on most new-build properties in the 1950s and 1960s the government started using Finlock gutters on houses. Finlock or concrete gutters were made of concrete blocks which can range from 8 inches to 12 inches and are joined using mortar.

The Finlock gutters were designed to be a maintenance free gutter system, however Finlock gutters are now starting to deteriorate due to concrete being an unsuitable material for guttering.

The main problems with Finlock Guttering

Sagging of the Finlock Gutters. Cold Bridging. (where the cold passes through the concrete into the inner walls). Interior damp (which can then lead to mold). External or internal leaks. External mold patches. Water not flowing properly and often the wrong way. After fifty plus years the Finlock Gutters are starting to deteriorate and fall apart.

Options->

Finlock Gutter Liners.

There are many designs in liners which can be installed to the Finlock Concrete Gutter.

EPDM, is a rubber based liner which can be bonded to the gutter. Advantages are that when installing it to a semi or terraced property it won't allow the water to go under the liner.

Trays, are another way of lining the Finlock Gutter. These can be constructed of many products or a combination of products such as a galvanised steel with a rubber coating. Some are secured down to the concrete with a bonding agent and some simply sit in the gutter. (these can allow the water to penetrate the concrete if not sealed and secured down).

Finlock Gutter replacement.

The finlock gutter can be removed in its entirety but creates problems structurally as the wall plate of the roof sits on the rear section of the Finlock Gutter.

Many companies cut corners and do as little as possible to solve the Finlock Gutter problems. By cutting the front section of the Finlock and planting a 6" X 1" timber is a common cost cutting method. This won't prevent Cold Bridging and will allow the cold and damp through. Some companies will install a 25mm section of insulation before attaching the 6" X 1" timber which is better than nothing. The thin fascia board is placed onto the timber followed by the guttering and usually eaves protection trays. (Sometimes they will install a vent across the top of the fascia board)

The correct method of installation would be to.


 * Fully Scaffold.
 * Strip two to three rows of tiles off.
 * Cut the front section of the finlock off in sections. (Different profiles can be cut in different ways)
 * Install a PVC section to the neighbours remaining Finlock using a water cut off mastic.
 * Install timber rafter extensions 800mm long.
 * Install PVC padding material making sure the overall length of the run is string lined to ensure level and straightness.

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