User:Hardworkingbee/favorites/I-66 Route trip

Introduction to your Route 66 trip
"Well, if you ever plan to motor west: Travel my way, the highway that's the best. Get your kicks on Route 66!" (Bobby Troup, 1946)

This is it. U.S. Route 66. The Super Chief. The Grand Canyon. The Navajo and Hopi Indian reservations. The Mojave Desert. The Painted Desert. Tucumcari. The Texas Panhandle. The Sooner State. Ozarks. The Mississippi River. The Joad and Wilson families. The Griswold family.

Highway 66. The route of legend and romance. "All the way on the Atchison, Topeka, & the Santa Fe . . .." "Kingman, Barstow, San Bernardino . . .."

Route 66 lives on
Alas, U.S. Highway 66—the so-called main street of America—exists no more, except in isolated sections as state highways, replaced on maps by segments of various Interstate highways.

Route 66 lives on, however, in the hearts of Americans and people worldwide as a symbol of the free spirit of the United States, the route to a better life, not always achieved as we saw in the book and movie Grapes of Wrath, but nevertheless always a possibility.

During 2001, the affection Americans and others have for the "Mother Road" was shown in celebrations along its route marking its 75th anniversary.

Pardon the detours
These pages sometimes do not follow the original route, but always retain its spirit. The goal is to provide an awesome transcontinental itinerary that gives the flavour of Route 66 experience.

Please don't complain because we sometimes take detours.

Few travellers who drove the old 66 failed to detour to the Grand Canyon.

And, who'd want to pass so close to Las Vegas without actually seeing it?

The Route 66 opening celebrations went all the way to New York City, just as we do here.

And, throughout its history, Route 66 changed its path due to politics or better engineering. Some of these changes took it miles from its original course.

On these pages, you'll gain the information needed to enjoy your Route 66 trip to the fullest.

Starting in Santa Monica
Old Route 66 started in Santa Monica, CA at the corner of Ocean Avenue and Santa Monica Boulevard.

You should start there, too.

It's hard to imagine the thrills gotten by early travellers from landlocked states when they looked out to the Pacific Ocean for the first time from this point.

From the adjacent park, you look down on Santa Monica Pier and Santa Monica Beach. The view is exhillerating.

Three choices for getting out of Los Angeles
Today, most travellers will want to avoid the stop and go driving of old Route 66 in Los Angeles. L.A. has gained a few million people since the Mother Road first came to town!

Besides, nowhere else did Route 66 change its route so many times. Even the end point was switched from downtown Los Angeles to Santa Monica, a wise decision.

Therefore, you have three choices.

You can follow the last—and very slow—route Route 66 actually took to leave the Los Angeles area, or you can take one of two much faster routes.

All start out using Santa Monica Boulevard from Ocean Avenue in Santa Monica.

Regardless of the route you take, you'll have a chance to sample the flavour of the old Route 66 on your way to Las Vegas.

Because much of your driving to Las Vegas will be via the Mojave Desert. be sure to take extra water or engine coolant in case of overheating and ample water for yourself in case of having to wait for help because of a breakdown.

In the winter, you may encounter snow at higher elevations in the Mojave Desert, which makes for great photo opportunites. Snow in the desert!

Choice 1: The last route taken by Route 66 out of Los Angeles
Passing through Santa Monica, Brentwood, Westwood Village, Beverly Hills, West Hollywood, and a dreary section of Hollywood, Route 66 followed Santa Monica Boulevard toward downtown Los Angeles.

On portions of this route, you'll still see the center strip once reserved for Pacific Electric interburban trains. The Los Angeles area once had the best suburban train system in the world.

Prior to the construction of the Hollywood freeway, Route 66 travellers took Sunset Boulevard from Santa Monica Boulevard into downtown Los Angeles.

However, during its last years, Route 66 turned off Santa Monica Boulevard onto the southbound Hollywood Freeway.

Near Los Angeles City Hall and Union Station, the Hollywood Freeway reached the first freeway intersection constructed in the United States.

From there, Route 66 followed the northbound Pasadena Freeway to Pasadena. This was the first freeway built in the U.S.

The end of the Pasadena Freeway still points you toward Colorado Boulevard.

Colorado Boulevard, of course, is the Rose Parade route.

Turn right onto Colorado.

From Pasadena, 66 went along Colorado Boulevard toward San Bernardino, changing its name to Foothill Boulevard along the way.

When you reach Interstate 15 near Ontario, take the northbound I-15 ramp toward Las Vegas.

Join Choice 2's route in Cajon Pass below, while still on I-15.

Choice 2: Interstate 10 — the fastest route out of Los Angeles
Most travellers will take this route.

Its main disadvantage is that it takes you through the heart of the congested downtown Los Angeles area, which can be confusing.

Therefore, avoid weekday morning or afternoon rush hours. Also, avoid Friday afternoon or evening on any portion of the route to Las Vegas.

You need to keep in the lanes marked Santa Monica Freeway—I-10—by the overhead signs until you pass the southern end of the downtown highrises.

From there, just follow the I-10 signs through the remainder of the downtown area.

You'll end up on the eastbound San Bernardino Freeway, still on I-10.

Outside of rush hour, plan on about five and one-half hours to reach Vegas, excluding stops. This may be quicker on a weekend morning.

Try to plan an evening arrival, when the lights are on.

Choice 2: Interstate 10 — leaving Santa Monica
Start out from Santa Monica along Santa Monica Boulevard, but then turn right onto Lincoln Boulevard after seven blocks (six not counting a pedestrian mall).

At Interstate 10, take the eastbound Santa Monica Freeway entrance marked Los Angeles.

Choice 2: Interstate 10
Continue on I-10.

As you approach Interstate 405, the San Diego Freeway, avoid the right lanes.

Continue on I-10.

Hungry for some great Mexican food?

Past I-405, still in Los Angeles, exit I-10 onto northbound Western Avenue to 1121 South Western Avenue (on the left) to have lunch or Sunday bunch at El Cholo, which is Dr. Voyageur's favourite Mexican-style restaurant.

This is the oldest Mexican restaurant in California, and it looks a bit dated.

Inexpensive and excellent, El Cholo has been featured numerous times in Gourmet Magazine. Check out its cookbook.

Not into Mexican-style food? Hungry for some Chinese food?

Past downtown Los Angeles, exit I-10 southbound on Atlantic Boulevard toward Monterey Park.

Monterey Park and adjacent Alhambra have seen huge Chinese immigration since the United Kingdom announced that it would relinquish control of Hong Kong to China.

Turn left onto Garvey Avenue.

Turn left onto Garfield Avenue.

Seemingly hundreds of restaurants line Atlantic, Garvey, and Garfield.

Take the eastbound entrance to the San Bernardino Freeway, I-10.

Continue east on I-10 through El Monte and Pomona to Interstate 15.

At this intersection, you find Ontario Mills, a major outlet centre.

Choice 2: Interstate 15 and Cajon Pass
Go north on I-15 through the Cajon Pass, one of the busiest railway routes in the country. Hundreds of trains pass through here each day.

This is a geologist's heaven, as the pass was created by movement of the infamous San Andreas fault.

At times, the rock types on one side of the road do not match those on the other side. Their mates are hundreds of miles away in Mexico.

To get an impression of the awesome power on display here, look at a map that shows the Gulf of California in Mexico, which also was a creation of the forces of this fault.

Evidentually, in perhaps in 10,000 or so years, you can expect the Gulf of California to reach toward Lake Tahoe—at least as far as Bishop, CA—as energy from the San Andreas transfers further east.

Dr. Voyageur is gathering options on beachfront property now!

Once when in San Bernardino, just off your route at the foot of Cajon Pass, directly on the fault, Dr. Voyageur and his father were sitting peacefully by a swimming pool enjoying the sun.

All of sudden, a powerful tremor came.

A large wave formed on the surface of the pool and crashed—this is no joke—with some force over the side.

Dr. Voyageur had to restrain his father from returning immediately to Canada.

San Bernardino—best known as the site of the first McDonald's restaurant (long ago razed)—is largely built on alluvial soil from the adjacent mountains.

This is the type of ground that offers the least stability during a large quake, which makes San Bernardino one of the most dangerous places to live in the United States.

San Bernardino has a similar situation to the coastal areas of Japan that have been built on landfill.

Tremor incidents, like the one described above, have been too few, and thus lethal pressure continues to build within the San Andreas.

It will not be pretty.

Safely past Cajon Pass—thanking Dr. Voyageur for not routing you via San Bernardino (you just missed its northern city limits, unless those doomed city council dudes have been annexing again)—you enter the Mojave Desert.

When you reached the summit of Cajon Pass, you entered the Great Basin.

Rivers—and there are some—in this large area that extends to beyond Reno and Salt Lake City do not flow into any ocean.

The population of the desert near Cajon Pass has exploded.

Astronomical home prices in the Los Angeles area and an expanding population have forced young families to jump across the mountains to find affordable first homes. One and two hour commutes in each direction, sometimes in car pools, are common.

Once past Barstow, however, the desert becomes almost pristine, as you pass a portion of the Mojave National (nature) Preserve.

Continue on I-15 toward Victorville (prior to Barstow).

Throughout most of Cajon Pass and all the way to Victorville, I-15 was built over Route 66.

At Victorville, take the 7th Street exit toward downtown. This is the route 66 took into town.

Give the choice 3 group a chance to catch up, and then everyone will be on 7th Street with you.

Choice 3: An alternative to Interstate 10
Because some drivers won't be comfortable travelling on I-10 through the heart of Los Angeles, this alternative avoids much of the Los Angeles metropolitan area.

There's still freeway driving (hard to avoid in California, but done on less confusing roads than those near the centre of Los Angeles).

Before travelling, study carefully Dr. Voyageur's safe driving lesson, especially the section on freeway driving.

From Santa Monica, take Santa Monica Boulevard away from the oceanfront. You will be travelling northeast.

From Santa Monica Boulevard, enter the San Diego Freeway, Interstate 405, northbound toward Van Nuys and Bakersfield.

Continue on the San Diego Freeway through the largely residential San Fernando Valley.

You pass over a ridge of the Santa Monica Mountains.

The San Diego Freeway ends at Interstate 5.

Go north on I-5 toward Bakersfield.

Just past the intersection with Interstate 210, exit I-5 onto the northbound State Highway 14 Freeway. This is also called the Antelope Valley Freeway.

The intersection of I-5 and California 14 was rebuilt after part of it collasped during the last major earthquake.

Sorry! Dr. Voyageur forgot that this second itinerary is for the more timid.

Go north on Highway 14 through the San Gabriel Mountains.

After passing the little towns of Acton and Vincent, take the "Pearblossom Cutoff" eastbound.

If you miss this cutoff, exit Highway 14 onto eastbound State Highway 138.

The "Pearblossom Cutoff" runs into State Highway 138.

You are now in the Mojave Desert. At times, the San Gabriel mountains rise to nearly 11,000 feet at your back.

Go eastbound on Highway 138 to State Highway 18.

Then travel eastbound on Highway 18 toward Victorville.

As you near Victorville, Highway 18 is called Palmdale Road.

At Victorville, pass by Interstate 15. Do not follow Highway 18 onto the I-15 freeway.

At I-15, Palmdale Road veers toward the northeast and becomes 7th Street.

Stay on 7th Street.

You join the other groups directly below.

Victorville
Everyone should be on 7th Street in Victorville now.

This was the route taken by Route 66 through Victorville.

As you near downtown, the buildings become more and more historic.

Sadly, the most historic portion has become deteriorated, and is not considered safe at night.

Groups like the Old Town Victorville association work to restore these old Route 66 business districts, but this is hard when most tourist traffic bypasses you on an Interstate, and when local shoppers now prefer indoor malls.

When you reach the "T" junction adjacent to the former Santa Fe railway (now BNSF railway—where did these people learn marketing and branding?), turn left onto "D" Street.

"D" Street was also the route of 66 through town. Since the closing of nearby George Air Force Base, the bars along here have languished.

Notice the old railway station on your right.

Route 66 followed the Santa Fe from downtown Los Angeles to Albuquerque, and met it at times after that.

Just across from the station, between 5th and 6th streets, you'll find the interesting California Route 66 Museum. Check its website for days and hours.

In a few blocks, take the northbound I-15 ramp toward Barstow and Las Vegas.

Continue northbound on I-15.

When you reach Barstow, make sure that you fill your gas tank.

Just past Barstow, take the Ghost Town Road exit for the Calico Ghost Town. This is now a county park.

Calico was one of the largest silver discoveries in the United States and many of the more than 500 mines also produced borax.

It's fascinating place to visit.

Continue on I-15, which becomes more scenic as you pass by the edge of the Mojave National Preserve and go up in elevation.

Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area
You'll know immediately when you've reached Nevada, as casinos line I-15 for those who can't wait to reach Las Vegas.

If it won't be dark soon, detour to the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation area. Otherwise, continue on I-15.

A sidetrip to colourful Red Rock Canyon adds another hour or hour and one-half or so to your trip, and is well worth it.

Take a bit more time, if it is cool enough to do a bit of hiking.

For Red Rock, branch west off I-15 onto Nevada State Highway 160, just south of Las Vegas.

Continue west on Highway 160 to State Highway 159.

Go north on Highway 159 to the Red Rock Canyon visitor's centre, which has a guide to the best places to see in this scenic, easily visited area.

From the visitor's centre, take the short loop road into the heart of the colourful rock formations.

Remember, this area is at its best in the early morning or in the late afternoon and evening around sunset, when the colours stand out the most.

From the Red Rock Canyon area, Highway 159 heads east to Las Vegas, some 20 miles away.

When you reach Las Vegas, Highway 159 turns into Charleston Boulevard.

Take Charleston Boulevard to I-15.

Take the SOUTHBOUND I-15 entrance.

Exit onto eastbound Sahara Boulevard.

At Las Vegas Boulevard (the "Strip"), you'll see the historic Sahara Hotel and Casino, where Frank Sinatra's "rat pack" hung out.

Turn right onto Las Vegas Boulevard.

You are heading toward the heart of the Strip.

Do not worry about missing anything by arriving in the evening.

You will be arriving when Las Vegas wakes up! (Actually, the casinos start filling up at around 4:00 p.m. or 5:00 p.m. and earlier on weekends and holidays, when people drift in from the pool areas and sightseeing.)

Night is the best time to experience this area.

Plan on at least two nights and one full day in Las Vegas.

Leaving Las Vegas via Lake Mead
Leaving Las Vegas on a warm, sunny day, let's travel via Lake Mead.

From Interstate 15, north of the Las Vegas town centre, north of the Fremont Street casino area, go east on Lake Mead Boulevard, State Highway 147.

Reaching the Lake Mead National Recreation Area, turn south along the lake, stopping at any site that attracts you. Have a refreshing swim in the desert and a picnic. This was the site of the infamous Pamela Anderson and Tommy Lee honeymoon video (Thieves carted away a safe containing their intimate personal video of their honeymoon on a houseboat on Lake Mead while their home was being renovated. The video ended up on the Internet).

Continue south along Lakeshore Road to U.S. Highway 93.

Go east and south on U.S. Highway 93 to Hoover Dam, named after Herbert Hoover, one of the most vilified presidents in U.S. history, who served during the start of the Great Depression, which became the most severe economic downturn in U.S. history. Eventually some 25 percent of Americans became unemployed with many others working just part-time. In spite of his failure to reverse the depression, however, many consider Hoover to have been a good and honorable man

Hoover Dam, initiated by President Hoover, an engineer by training, and once called Boulder Dam while memories of Hoover's presidency were still strong, gave work to thousands during the depression in the 1930's--a beacon of hope in those dark times--and fostered the growth of Las Vegas, which until then was a small railroad town. All those well-paid unmarried dam workers attracted enough sin to make Las Vegas notorious during the Great Depression, and Vegas, of course, never looked back.

Continue south on 93 into Arizona to Interstate 40 at Kingman, an historic Route 66 town.

Joining old Route 66
Drive east on I-40, and watch the countryside become more scenic as the road rises in elevation into an area of more rainfall.

Just east of Kingman, we should branch north and east on an old portion of U.S. Highway 66, now called State Highway 66. Some of the old roadside businesses have been lovingly cared for, but for the most part the modern era has passed by this region, whose countryside is quite pleasant.

At Seligman, travel east again on I-40, which traces the route of old Highway 66 as far as Oklahoma City.

The Interstate continues to rise in elevation until we are travelling through a dense pine forest. Be careful with cigarettes and other fires, as this region gets very dry during the early summer.

At Ash Fork, turn south on State Highway 89 toward Prescott.

Just north of Prescott, travel northeast on State Highway 89A.

Be sure to plan some time in the picturesque old copper mining town of Jerome on this route.

Next comes Sedona, the so-called new age "high energy" spot. People swear that they are vitalized by the vibrations here. Dr. Voyageur gets high just by being in beautiful Arizona and New Mexico, so he feels no contrast.

Regardless of its energy level, Sedona stands out for the beauty of its setting. Sedona, surrounded by colourful rock formations, is lovely by any measure.

Sedona is a nice place for lunch, but an extremely expensive place to spend the night.

North of town, Highway 89A follows the incredibly beautiful Oak Creek Canyon. Be sure to allow time for a stop at Slide Rock State Park for a refreshing dip. This area, too, has great beauty at all times of year.

Reaching Flagstaff and the Grand Canyon
Soon, we arrive in fast-growing Flagstaff, set in the northern Arizona forest, which has numerous budget accommodation choices, including hostels (all very close to the old Santa Fe, now Amtrak, depot, which lies just south of Flagstaff's western-style town centre), Motel 6's, and other motels, all of which are heavily booked throughout the summer. Most accommodation in Flagstaff is along either the busy Burlington Northern Santa Fe Railway or Interstate 40 or both, so expect some noise.

This university town has lots of budget restaurants, too, including a Furr's Cafeteria within easy walking distance of the Greyhound station. You will find a helpful visitors centre in the Amtrak station.

From Flagstaff take U.S. Highway 180 north, which joins State Highway 64, to the south rim of the Grand Canyon. Or, drive over to Williams, west of Flagstaff, and then take the Grand Canyon Railway to the national park.

Based on its detours, some Route 66 purists may not like Dr. Voyageur's itinerary. For example, the Grand Canyon like Las Vegas was never located on Route 66. Nevertheles, most Route 66 travellers, if they had time, visited the Grand Canyon, including many of those travelling by railway. Even the Route 66 grand opening celebration in 1926 extended beyond the end of the highway at Chicago all the way to New York City.

As far in advance as possible, try to book the Mather Campground at Grand Canyon Village within a short walk to the rim. Call 1 800 365-2267. Have a credit card available to pay in advance.

If Mather is not available, take any campground, or use a hostel or KOA-type campground or motel in Flagstaff. Book at least two nights if you stay in Flagstaff. You will also find a small selection of more expensive hotels within the national park, but during the summer these are often booked far in advance.

As already mentioned, the best activities here are sunrise and sunset walks along the trail that follows the rim of the canyon, so, if possible, try to stay overnight.

In Summer, do not--do not--plan to walk down into the canyon, unless you are in fantastically good shape. Even the summer burro rides into the canyon are torturous due to the extreme heat.

The temperature at the rim may be quite tolerable--30c or so--but as we descend into the canyon the temperature gets hotter and hotter and hotter. Remember, too, that we will have to walk back up or ride back up those steep trails.

From the Grand Canyon, drive east along State Highway 64 to U.S. Highway 89. Along this route are various canyon overlooks.

Turn north on Highway 89 to U.S. Highway 160.

Go east on 160 to Tuba City.

For some time we have been travelling through the Navajo Indian Reservation, one of the largest areas set aside for native people in the U.S., and soon we will transit the Hopi Indian Reservation as well.

Nevertheless, all is not well. There is real poverty here, though not the crushing poverty of the malnutritioned. And, much to Dr. Voyageur's surprise, there is often little respect for the land, as judged from a European point of view.

Household trash lines the highways, as it surprisingly lines some railways in France. However, few cultures have been forced to undergo the changes of these native people in the last two centuries, so we will not criticize the rubbish, which may be the result of a small minority within the tribe, and of course we will not add to it.

From Tuba City, we take Highway 264 across these large reserves with their plateaus and small villages into New Mexico. Those wanting a more intimate experience of the history here may detour north to the ruins of Canyon de Chelly National Monument. This fascinating and popular spot is reachable by dirt road, and guides with horses are available to take you deep into the canyon.

We continue eastbound on Highway 264 to U.S. Highway 666.

We will not linger on 666 for long, as the unlucky 666 combination seems to bring a remarkably high accident rate to this infamous highway. Drive extra carefully here!

Turn south on 666 to Gallup, New Mexico, a sort of rough trading centre for the reservations and ranches of the region and a major stop on Interstate 40. Just north of I-40, still on Highway 666, we find a Furr's Cafeteria on the right filled mostly with locals and--of course--Dr. Voyageur enjoying tasty, inexpensive meals.

Turn east on I-40, which passes some interesting country until it descends into the Rio Grande River valley near Albuquerque. Worth a short detour at Grants are the rock and lava formations of El Malpais National Monument, which is south of I-40 along State Highway 53.

Passing through Albuquerque
This portion of your Route 66 experience leads you from New Mexico to the Mississippi River via the Texas Panhandle and Ozark Mountains.

In Albuquerque, be sure to try the fabulous blue corn enchiladas at the M & J Sanitary Tortilla Factory (505) 242-4890, 403 Second Street Southwest, just south of the Greyhound terminal and across a bridge over the railway tracks from the Amtrak station.

This inexpensive restaurant offers the best New Mexican-style food Dr. Voyageur has tasted.

Starting at Albuquerque, Dr. Voyageur urges travellers to detour north to Taos via Jemez Springs, Santa Fe, Chimayo and Truchas, and then go east to I-40.

Interestingly, the original Route 66 travelled via Santa Fe—good for tourists, but not for truckers.

North of Taos, along the Colorado New Mexico border, runs the narrow-gauge Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad from late May through October.

Based in Chama, New Mexico, and operated by a volunteer group, the C&TS, part of a line that once served the mining camps in the area, passes through rugged and isolated western mountain scenery using authentic preserved equipment. Check out its web site for more details.

Otherwise, at Albuquerque, continue east on I-40.

Tucumcari
Tucumcari, still in New Mexico, is a must stop.

Detour off I-40 onto the main business street of Tucumcari.

No other town has preserved so many 1950s-era Route 66 buildings, such as the Blue Swallow Motel.

You'll love the circa 1950s neon signs.

Tucumcari takes much pride in its Route 66 heritage.

It also offers less expensive accommodations than many 1-40 towns.

The Texas Panhandle
Starting in eastern New Mexico, continuing through the Texas Panhandle, and on into western Oklahoma, Interstate 40 becomes really, really boring and flat and monotonous to the max.

This is a section to travel quickly and even drive at night, if pressed for time.

Amarillo, which means "yellow" in Spanish, is worth a stop, however.

Say what you will about their town stuck in the Texas Panhandle and its countryside, but Amarillo folks are a friendly and tolerant bunch.

When the most popular and highly paid television personality in America, Oprah Winfrey, an American of African descent, hosted a show that clearly implied that mad cow disease existed in the U.S., with apparently no proof whatsoever, and thereby caused tens of millions of dollars of damage to the Texas cattle industry, Texas beef interests sued.

As the trial in Amarillo dragged on, Winfrey was hosted with warmth and affection, and even had local restaurant veggie items named after her. The trial ended with a "not guilty" verdict.

Amarillo prides itself on being different.

Speaking of different, just west of Amarillo, along I-40, stands the Stanley Marsh Cadillac Ranch.

Your taste in art may not lie in burying Cadillacs nose down (at the same angle as Cheops' pyramids) in the Texas prairie (better to admire their fins), but Mr. Marsh's and Dr. Voyageur's tastes sure do.

What a handsome sight are those buggies lined up on the Texas prairie!

Moreover, there is always the Big Texan "Steak Ranch" restaurant at 7701 East I-40 in Amarillo.

Let's just say that this place is somewhat vegetarian unfriendly to put it mildly (Try the Furrs Cafeteria instead if you are vegetarian).

However, if you like rattlesnake or steak and a cowboy atmosphere, the Big Texan Steak Ranch is your spot to dine.

Mad cow or no mad cow disease, eat an entire almost 300 gram (72 oz) steak at one sitting at the Big Texan, and you get it free. A surprisingly large percentage do.

But, please tell Dr. Voyageur that you will not try this assault on your until now pristine physiology. Sitting on your bum while driving for miles is no time to overeat to such a gross extent.

In Texas, the more than ample helpings at the Big Texan may be the extreme, but very large portions are the norm.

Food really hangs off the plates in Texas, and the bellies hang low. See the "Eating Well" page for descriptions of some of the local treats.

Dr. Voyageur loves this state!

Near Amarillo, the flat land opens up to Palo Duro Canyon, more than 300 metres deep, preserved in a state park.

Spectacular in its own right, this area seems even more awesome by contrast to the uninteresting land around it. Reach Palo Duro by driving some 18 miles south of Amarillo on Interstate 27, and then by going 10 miles east on Texas Highway 217.

While driving through Texas, you may notice that the Texas flag flies as high as the U.S. one, unlike the custom in other U.S. states.

As part of its agreement to join the United States, the Republic of Texas gained the right to fly its flag with equal prominence. By law, the other states must fly theirs at a lower level.

Down in Austin, the Texas state capitol building looks a lot like the one in Washington, D.C., but the Texas one is—you guessed it—larger.

The Republic of Texas joined the Union in a merger of equals, not as some junior partner in an acquisition.

Oklahoma — the "Sooner" state
Oklahoma's nickname Sooner State grew out of the way the state was settled by people of European descent.

As you may remember from the movie or play Oklahoma!, new settlers massed on the borders of the Oklahoma Territory prior to the official start of homesteading date, and waited for the signal to cross the border.

When the legal settlers arrived at some of the best spots, however, they found many of the most choice places already claimed by settlers who had snuck in ahead of time—snuck in sooner.

Oklahoma chose to honour these sneaky but creative citizens with its nickname, the Sooner State.

Along Interstate 40, prior to Oklahoma City, you reach the old Route 66 town of El Reno.

Get off the Interstate and explore the old downtown of what was once the largest city in Oklahoma.

El Reno makes a good place to stay overnight, instead of Oklahoma City.

In Oklahoma City, eat. These people know how to dine.

Try the Classen Grill, 405 842-0428.

Finding it is a bit difficult.

Finding its street, Classen Boulevard, is no problem, but when you head north from the centre city, Classen Boulevard suddenly ends.

But, go around the limited access highway that blocks Classen and you will reach the cafe at 5124 North Classen Boulevard, almost immediately north of the limited access highway.

Everything on the Southwestern breakfast or luncheon menu is delicious, and nothing is too expensive.

At Oklahoma City, turn northeast onto Interstate 44, part of which is a toll road.

Visiting the Ozark Mountains
As you leave Oklahoma City, the countryside becomes more lush again

You're heading toward the Ozark region.

The Ozark mountains are very old, and thus have eroded to be little more than hills. However, the land is often too rugged for row crops, which makes an ideal habitat for hardwood forests.

This is a pleasant change after eastern New Mexico, the Texas Panhandle, and western Oklahoma!

Just east of Tulsa, an important oil centre, turn east onto U.S. Highway 412.

Continue east on U.S. 412 into Arkansas.

Just across the state line, turn south and southeast onto State Highway 16, which enters a scenic Ozark region.

Continue to Highway 16 to Fayetteville.

The liberal university city of Fayetteville, an anti-slavery pocket in the Deep South in the years leading up to the War between the States, makes a super place to hang out for a day or so.

A young Bill Clinton attended and later taught law at the University of Arkansas in Fayetteville.

In the Bentonville and Rogers area, just north of here, Sam Walton founded Wal-Mart and amassed one of the largest fortunes in the world.

This unassuming man continued to drive an old and not air conditioned pick-up truck and to live in a rather modest home for the remainder of his life.

From Fayetteville, continue east on Highway 16 into a rugged Ozark area.

This is beautiful country. Do not plan to drive very fast on these roads.

Turn north on State Highway 9 near Clinton.

Continue north on 9 to U.S. Highway 63 near the Missouri border.

Go north on U.S. 63 into Missouri.

Still in the Ozarks, just past Thayer, go north on State Highway 19.

Turn west on State Highway 106 a short distance to Alley Spring, in the Ozark Scenic Riverways National Recreation Area.

Do some exploring here. Dr. Voyageur has not stayed at the Alley Spring campground run by the National Park Service, but he knows that it is pleasant.

Go back east on 106 to State Highway 19.

For river canoeing and camping, go north on 19 to the Round Spring area in the National Scenic Riverway park.

The somewhat rowdy nature of this unsupervised campground at Round Spring (a tired Dr. Voyageur and friends wanted to go to sleep before 1:45 a.m.) is balanced by the lack of McDonald's and other fast food chains for miles and especially by the beautiful Current River, which is adjacent. The striking blue colour of the river comes from it being composed mostly of spring water. Little sediment clouds the water.

North of Round Spring one can rent a canoe and be picked up down river. Follow safety instructions, as this river is far less placid than it appears at first glance. Deaths occur every year, but this should not deter the more prudent from enjoying a great river experience. Park Rangers give evening fireside safety talks at Round Spring.

Go back south on Highway19 to Highway 106.

Turn east on State Highway 106.

Drive south on State Highway 21.

Turn south on paved county road D.

Go west a very short distance to Van Buren.

At Van Buren, drive south a short distance to Big Spring, a spring truly worthy of its name, within the Ozark Scenic Riverways park. This huge spring forms its own river as it flows out of the ground.

Big Spring is the site of a big, more family orientated campground than Round Spring (Dr. Voyageur slept better here). In the adjacent town of Van Buren, outside the park boundary, are a number of budget motels (none tried by the doctor) and down home cafes and snack bars. Well off the beaten track, nothing is expensive.

Mississippi River to Virginia
The original planners of the famed Route 66 built the highway from southern California to Chicago.

Part I, part II, part III, and part IV, follow this route closely as far as southern Missouri.

Here in Part V, however, Dr. Voyageur extends the drive through beautiful and historic countryside all the way to New York City, giving readers a great transcontinental itinerary. As mentioned in Part I, the original Route 66 opening celebration extended all the way to New York City, so we are not straying from tradition.

We pass through Kentucky, including Abraham Lincoln's boyhood home, the mountains of West Virginia and Virginia, Washington, D.C., Maryland, the beaches of Delaware, and along the shoreline of New Jersey, including Atlantic City. Readers, too, Dr. Voyageur believes, will get a unusually fair overview of the War Between the States that ravished so much of this land in the 19th Century, a conflict where emotions still run high.

Everyone should read Route 66 part I, part II, part III, and part IV too, more the actual Route 66 route.

Below, from southeastern Missouri, where we left off in Part IV, let's start at the Mississippi River and head East.

Crossing into Kentucky
From Big Spring and Van Buren in Missouri, continue east along U.S. Highway 60 into Kentucky, crossing the Mississippi River and a tiny patch of Illinois where the Mississippi and Ohio rivers join at Cairo. The waters from these rivers are different colours, which do not immediately mix. You will be impressed by these rivers and their meeting.

The flat country south of this river junction is the gateway to the Delta country, one of the two major rice growing regions in the U.S (The other is the Sacramento River Valley in California). Watermelons also thrive on the moist soil here. Try some watermelon rind pickles, a treat.

Continue east on Highway 60 to Interstate 24.

Drive east on I-24 to the Grand Rivers/Land between the Lakes turn off.

Go south into the Land between the Lakes National Recreation Area, a project of the U.S. government sponsored Tennessee Valley Authority, which brought electricity, industry, employment, and lakeside parks to this region during the Great Depression.

The Land between the Lakes makes a nice spot to hike, to camp, and to relax along the lake without the crowds of some of the parks later on. Hundreds of miles of shoreline here assure a private spot for nearly everyone, especially if they rent a boat.

From the road through Land between the Lakes park, take U.S. Highway 68 eastbound.

Between Hopkinsville and Russellville, near Fairview, visit the monument to Jefferson Davis, the former president of the Confederate States of America.

At Bowling Green, most famous for its Corvette automobile plant and museum, turn north on State Highway 105. This will avoid the tacky tourist area that adjoins the southern boundary of Mammoth Cave National Park.

At Roundhill, turn east onto State Highway 70.

Drive eastbound on Highway 70 to State Highway 259.

Turn north on Highway 259 to State Highway 728.

Go eastbound on Highway 728 until you see the entrance to Mammoth Cave National Park.

Try to arrive early, as the caves are spectacular, and the guided tours fill early. The above ground park, too, is very pretty and is nice for hiking and boating. Camping should be booked well in advance (See the Internet site), and you may be able to reserve tours in advance.

From the Mammoth Cave National Park area, go north on Interstate 65 to Sonora.

From Sonora, travel east on State Highway 84 to Howardstown.

Heading toward the mountains of West Virgina
From Highway 84 at White City, head east on the Bluegrass Parkway to U.S. Highway 60 near Lexington. By now, you have noticed that Kentucky has its own unique architecture, which is really quite handsome. Especially appreciated are the attempts to harmonize the style of new buildings to old. Prince Charles, who believes strongly that architecture nurtures the spirit, would be happy here.

Take Highway 60 east toward Lexington, a graceful southern city. If in a hurry, take the Highway 60 Bypass around the heart of Lexington. Otherwise, take business route 60 through the city, a really handsome one, where we find the University of Kentucky and lots of student-related small cafes, etc.

If on Bypass 60, take U.S. Highway 27 north to Interstate 64. Then take I-64 (which is also I-75 here) east.

If on Business Route 60, go east to Interstate 75. Then travel I-75 north a short distance (one interchange) to Interstate 64. Go east on I-64.

Everyone driving east on I-64 now? Good! This is far less confusing in reality than it may seem here.

West Virginia
Eastbound I-64 rises into the more rugged country of eastern Kentucky and then descends into the Ohio River Valley near the West Virginia border. You will note the smell of the large petrochemical companies in this area, including Ashland Oil. On several visits, Dr. Voyageur has sped past the little town of Nitro in the centre of the petrochemical area. The sound of that name deeply disturbs him.

West Virginia, a state that broke off from Virginia during the Civil War due to its opposition to slavery, remains a liberal place, most known for proving in its 1960 primary election that Catholic John Kennedy could win handsomely in a predominately working-class protestant environment. Kennedy's West Virginia win against the popular Hubert Humphrey brought him, many believe, the Democratic nomination for president.

In spite of some factories along the highway, the countryside becomes more pretty. The state capital, Charleston, may smell like the industrial centre it is, but Charleston is for the most part a pleasant place surrounded by mountains.

Dr. Voyageur's readers need not hold their noses much longer (and the smell seldom seems that bad), as we are coming to the raison d'etre of this section, the marked beauty of southeastern West Virginia and western Virginia.

From Charleston, drive south on I-64, which has become the West Virginia Turnpike, an inexpensive toll road.

Just south of Beckley, exit the turnpike, and head east on the now toll-free I-64.

This is great country with numerous state parks in the area. At the New River Bridge, be sure to pull off I-64 at the turnout for the great view.

This bridge is the mother of all bungie jumping spots, but the police are watching to prevent this activity. Below is the New River Gorge National River Park, the centrepiece of a very scenic area.

For legal reasons, Dr. Voyageur will not suggest companies that organize raft or kayak trips on the New River or its tributaries, as there is no absolute guarantee of safety in this very wild setting. The doctor dislikes lawsuits. This is not Disney World where a scary situation is actually totally benign due to superb engineering.

But, for those interested, numerous opportunities exist to experience the New River. If interested, pick a whitewater rafting and kayaking company that has been in business for a long time and try to reserve ahead of time, as these sports are very popular here.

Further down Interstate 64, be sure to pull off at White Sulphur Springs, home of the Greenbrier Resort. Take a peak at what many classify America's best resort hotel, the Greenbrier.

Wanting to isolate enemy embassy staffs from possible public retaliation, the U.S. State Department moved the German, Italian, and Japanese diplomats to the Greenbrier when America was trust into World War 2. The outbreak of war with the U.S. was a lucky break for them, as they now enjoyed the fine accommodations of the Greenbrier!

In spite of the lovely setting and fine facilities, the Axis staffs grew to dislike being isolated together away from the sophisticated Washington diplomatic circuit. In addition, they did not get along at all in close confinement, which bode ill had their countries won the war.

After World War 2, as the Cold War with the Soviet Union intensified, the U.S. government built heavily fortified rooms deep under the Greenbrier to serve as the evacuation point for the top leaders of the U.S. government, including the president, in case of an actual attack. Only recently has this information been made public. One presumes that these officials expected to go up to the fine Greenbrier golf courses when the radiation diminished.

Understanding the War Between the States
Howardstown and adjacent White City have the birthplace and boyhood home of Abraham Lincoln. Lincoln was born poor, as we see visiting his birthplace, and, being an honest man, he remained that way throughout his otherwise rich life of public service. Many (especially outside of the South) believe Lincoln was America's greatest president. Certainly, Lincoln, George Washington, and Franklin Delano Roosevelt governed in the most difficult environments.

Washington strained to establish national unity after a debilitating war for independence, and resisted entreaties to become king of the new American nation. Roosevelt dwelt with the worst economic collapse in U.S. history and World War 2. And, Lincoln, more than any than any other person, prevented the dissolution of the American nation during its War between the States.

Had Lincoln not been assassinated near the end of the war the course of U.S. history might have been far more positive, as Lincoln believed that the South should not be punished for its role in the war. Healing the wounds of the most savage war in world history to date was to be his final priority.

At his second inaugural, while the war still raged, Lincoln ordered the "Song of Dixie", the Confederate anthem, played as a gesture of reconcilliation.

And, what an anthem it was!

Song of Dixie
Oh, I wish I was in the land of Cotton--Old times there are not forgotten Look away! Look away! Look away! Dixie Land In Dixie Land where I was born in early on one frosty mornin' Look away! Look away! Look away! Dixie Land (Chorus)

Chorus: Then I wish I was in Dixie. Hooray! Hooray! In Dixie Land I'll take my stand: To live and die in Dixie! Away! Away! Away down south in Dixie. Away! Away! Away down south in Dixie.

Ole Missus marry "Will the weaver", Willum was a gay deceiver. Look away! Look away! Look away! Dixie Land But when he put his arm around'er, He smiled fierce as a forty pounder! Look away! Look away! Look away! Dixie Land

(Chorus)

His face was sharp as a butcher's cleaver, But that did not seem to grieve'er Look away! Look away! Look away! Dixie Land Ole Missus acted the foolish part, And died for a man that broke her heart Look away! Look away! Look away! Dixie Land

(Chorus)

Now here's a health to the next ole Missus, An' all the gals that want to kiss us; Look away! Look away! Look away! Dixie Land But if you want to drive 'way sorrow, Come and hear this song tomorrow Look away! Look away! Look away! Dixie Land

(Chorus)

There's buckwheat cakes and Injun batter, Makes you fat or a little fatter; Look away! Look away! Look away! Dixie Land Then hoe it down and scratch your gravel, To Dixie's Land I'm bound to travel, Look away! Look away! Look away! Dixie Land

(Chorus)

Other voices of reconcilliation spoke, too.
When General Lee of the South finally surrendered his half starved and now largely shoeless army, the Northern general on hand ordered "Dixie" played again. As Lee's army marched in to surrender, the Northern solders formed a respectful canopy of bayonets over the heads of Lee's men, and then fed them. On breaking camp, the Southern solders were allowed to keep their weapons, so that they could hunt. These were honourable acts by honourable men.

Alas, these gestures of Northerners playing "Dixie" and other acts of reconcillation not did not last.

Upon his death, Lincoln was succeeded by an honourable but much weaker president, Andrew Johnson, and the economic rape of an already ravished South by Northern opportunists called "carpetbaggers" begin in earnest. Puppet state governments composed of former slaves appointed by the carpetbagger occupation fuelled white Southern anger and desire for retribution and revenge.

Few Americans understand that the North and the South fought for different causes. Southern white boys did not fight to keep slaves. Few of these poor solders owned slaves, or ever would own slaves.

They fought a distant central government that all too often favoured the interests of the fledgling northern industry that wanted high tariffs against European imports. The largely rural South sold its products like cotton and sugar to Europe and wanted no barriers.

Thomas Jefferson, who largely wrote the Declaration of Independence and who became president after Washington, believed that American democracy could not survive industrialization and urbanization. With all the rules and regulations governing American life today, some say Jefferson was largely right.

The supremacy of control by individual states and local governments was the foundation of the southern Confederacy. The South fought against an all powerful central government. It fought for a Jeffersonian America of little government interference in the lives of the people. It did not fight based on hatred of people of African descent.

The South fought, too, for the North to honour its commitment to have half of the new western states admitted to the Union as southern states with slavery permitted. The despicable right to own slaves, alas, symbolized Southern political power.

The new state Kansas, south of the Mason-Dixon Line, the demarcation of the North and South, refused slavery for moral reasons, and the North went along. The South was not so much interested in expanding slavery as it was in assuring that its position in the United States government would not be overwhelmed.

The South fought against outsiders telling it what to do. The Northern opposition to slavery symbolized this conflict in the minds of white Southerners.

On the other hand, northern solders marched into war with religious fervour, in a moral crusade against the evils of slavery, to preserve a united country. By far, the most popular song of the Yankee solders and northern civilian population was The Battle Hymn of the Republic by Julia Ward Howe.

Battle Hymn of the Republic
Mine eyes have seen the glory of the coming of the Lord He is trampling out the vintage where the grapes of wrath are stored, He has loosed the fateful lightening of His terrible swift sword His truth is marching on.

Chorus: Glory! Glory! Hallelujah! Glory! Glory! Hallelujah! Glory! Glory! Hallelujah! His truth is marching on.

I have seen Him in the watch-fires of a hundred circling camps They have builded Him an altar in the evening dews and damps l can read His righteous sentence by the dim and flaring lamps His day is marching on.

(Chorus)

I have read a fiery gospel writ in burnish`d rows of steel, "As ye deal with my condemners, So with you my grace shall deal;" Let the Hero, born of woman, crush the serpent with his heel Since God is marching on.

(Chorus)

He has sounded forth the trumpet that shall never call retreat He is sifting out the hearts of men before His judgment-seat Oh, be swift, my soul, to answer Him! be jubilant, my feet! Our God is marching on.

(Chorus)

He has sounded form the trumpet that shall never call retreat He is sifting out the hearts of men before His judgment-seat Oh, be swift, my soul, to answer Him! be jubilant, my feet! Our God is marching on.

(Chorus)

ln the beauty of the lilies Christ was born across the sea, With a glory in His bosom that transfigures you and me: As He died to make men holy, let us die to make men free, While God is marching on.

(Chorus)

For the North, slavery was a great sin in God's eyes, and indeed it was. And, breaking up the most perfect political union ever created under God was a terrible sin, too, in the view of the North. After reading the words to the Battle Hymn, does anyone doubt that in the eyes of the Yankee troops this was a holy war?

For the Union side, fighting in the War between the States was a crusade for the Right. A battle against evil. "As He died to make men holy, let us die to make men free," the song said, and die they did on both sides in numbers unknown before in any war in world history (Solders in earlier wars had been blessed with grossly inaccurate weapons).

Concentration of power in a central government was not an issue to the Union solders. And the common person in the North had no interest in tariffs or international trade either. He fought the devil in form of human subjugation.

For Lincoln, Union was paramount. Involuntary servitude with all the breaking up of families and the tramping of aspirations that it entailed was a despicable abomination in his eyes; hence, his enthusiastic support of generals Grant and Sherman (of Gone with the Wind infamy) who fought with such bloody vigour. Lincoln had seen slaves marched along roads in his native Kentucky as a child, and this gentle but iron-willed boy recoilled at the sight.

Lincoln wheeled and dealed to keep some Southern border states such as Kentucky fighting on the Union side or at least neutral, even to the extent of promising them the right to keep slaves until the end of the war. He made these compromises to achieve the absolute devastation of the Southern war effort. In his mind, a vigorous military campaign would shorten the war and in the long run lessen casualties.

But, Lincoln, a Southerner himself, understood the South. Unlike some of his Northern contemporaries, Lincoln knew that for the most part the Confederate solders and their leaders were good and decent men. They were not evil men. After the war, they should not be punished for fighting for what they felt was just.

Nevertheless, after Lincoln's death punished they were.

Although the South had not focused on the war in racialistic terms, other than wanting to make sure Southern states did not become outnumbered by the admission of new free states, the first order of business in the post war "carpetbagger" era (named for the northern opportunists who flooded into the South after the war who often carried cheap cloth suitcases) was getting rid of the puppet legislators of African descent who worked at the bidding of the Northern economic occupation.

Scaring largely undereducated people of African descent from power and keeping them impotent by using the demonic (cross burnings) and the often violent (tar and feathering and lynching) rites of the newly formed Klu Klux Klan proved very effective. Numerous laws were enacted at the state and local levels to keep people of African descent "in their place." After Lincoln's death, the South descended into a racialistic abyss from which it is just now breaking free.

And, the whites were immensely harmed, too, by this situation, as only recently has the huge population African descent in the South begun to be able to gain enough income to foster a vibrant economy for everyone in the region.

Long ago, Henry Ford knew that to sell cars in high volume he needed people with money to buy them. He paid his workers what was then a king's ransom, $5.00 a day. But these workers bought cars, and they bought things from other people who in turn bought Ford cars.

Other industrialists followed Ford's lead, and their workers bought cars, and so on. In this way the world's most potent economic force, the American middle class, was created, while the South remained a nearly feudal economy with a few wealthy people and with the vast majority of both blacks and whites "dirt poor".

Unfortunately, though, the somewhat simplistic view of economic harm given above was not the paramount harm caused by the legacy of the War between the States, a legacy that includes the North's zealously in pursuing the war with extreme force bringing hunger and misery to civilian populations, the South's dishonour in its treatment of Yankee prisoners of war, Lincoln's murder, the plundering of the South that followed his death, the rise of the Klu Klux Klan, the creation of numerous state laws to restore the population of African descent to powerlessness, and after the war the growth of abject slums in northern cities populated by rural blacks who fled the South usually unprepared to make a living in an urban environment and whose family structures had been destroyed by a slave system that broke up families.

No, being the poorest region of the U.S. was not the greatest on-going wound. Nor was the brutality handed out by the Klu Klux Klan and sometimes brutal racist southern law enforcement officers (all too often the same people), as we witnessed in the excellent movie "Fried Green Tomatoes".

The robbing of the intellectual and spiritual potential of generations was the greatest sin. The wonderful movie, "Driving Miss Daisy," offers poignant scenes of the black chauffeur, a man of significant intellect, trapped in a society where the display of one's potential could be downright dangerous. One wonders how much better the world might be if these people had been allowed to flower. How many illnesses prevented? How many hungry people fed by new technologies and so on?

And, although the population of African descent suffered most grievously, the shear evil of the post-war system robbed millions of southern whites of their intellectual and spiritual self respect. Like many in Germany years ago, all too many whites knew the work of the devil was being done, and that was awfully hard to live with, when one was too intimidated to push for change.

Heavy stuff, eh? The War between the States and the death of Lincoln have had a such profound impact on the U.S., which sadly continues to this day.

On the other hand, as we travel through the South and the border states, we can take joy that the sun is shinning in. As we travel through this region, it is important that we understand the complex history here, as described above, as we want to be fair to all sides.

Today, we see the U.S. flag being proudly displayed all over the South. Thirty years ago, a traveller seldom saw the U.S. flag flown in the South, except from post offices and other Federal government buildings. Although wounds remain, the North and South have become one country. Today, in Dr. Voyageur's opinion, relations between the races have become much better in the South than in many northern cities.

The southern anthem "Dixie", by the way, was written in New York City.

"War between the States" used here is a compromise. "Civil War" is more commonly used in the North. "War of Northern Aggression", of course, is a southern term.

Virginia to Washington, D.C.
Experiencing the beauty, culture and history of Virginia Crossing the Virginia border, just east of White Sulphur Springs, Interstate 64 begins a steep descent into the Shenandoah River Valley (Actually, the river is a bit north of here.). This descent is very scenic with old mining towns clinging to the hillsides.

Once on flatter land, take Highway 11 south into charming Lexington, well worth several hours of exploration.

After the War between the States, Lexington functioned as an Athens of the South. The great southern general Robert E. Lee spent his last years here as president of Washington and Lee University. And, the renowned military university, the Virginia Military Institute, flourished in Lexington. Be sure to visit both campuses, which are near the centre of town.

Recently, the Virginia Military Institute became the focus of national controversy, when the Federal Government sued it to admit women. VIT, not being the type of place that gives up honoured traditions easily, resisted. Old school Southern gentlemen, regardless of age, do not cotton to their women leading troops into combat.

On this battlefield, VIT suffered from one glaring weakness, its funding by Virginia and Federal taxpayers. No Virginia subsidized military school of equal quality welcomed women. Therefore, VIT, facing the loss of financial support, surrendered to the federal judiciary.

VIT gave in too easily to Yankee political correctness, some believe. Florence King, the South Carolina humorist writing in the National Review (26 October 1998), said, "Instead of giving in on the coed ruling, [Joseph Bunting, VIT Commandant] should have ordered the cadets to tear the place down, brick by brick, stone by stone, and sow every acre with salt; then he should have wrapped himself in the Confederate flag and put a bullet through his head. I love grand gestures."

Here we have an idealized description of a proper behaviour of a southern gentleman!

Traditions have fallen before at VIT, and Dr. Voyaguer believes VIT will survive this latest battle. Some years ago, VIT integrated, and one of the great sights of VIT is witnessing all those cadets of African descent entering and leaving Stonewall Jackson Hall. General Jackson, of course, was one of the great Confederate heroes of the Civil War, whose courage and sharpness of military mind is reverenced by all at VIT.

From Lexington, take U.S. Highway 60 eastbound a short distance to beyond Buena Vista.

Turn north onto the Blue Ridge Parkway.

Blue Ridge Parkway, Charlottesville, and Shanandoah National Park
The Blue Ridge Parkway, the first national scenic drive, constructed during the Great Depression, runs along the first ridge of the Appalachian Mountains between Shenandoah National Park in Virginia and Great Smoky Mountains National Park in North Carolina. This is one beautiful road.

Plan on going no more than 25 - 30 miles per hour. This is no freeway. And, plan to stop often to walk and to admire the views. If you spot a blackberry malt or blackberry snake available at one of the parkway concessionaires, grab it. In fact, consume anything--ice cream, pies, whatever--made with the awesome local blackberries in it.

Regardless of our blackberry consumption, by the time we reach I-64 again, near Waynesboro, we may be hungry--we should force ourselves to be hungry--so now is time to detour to one of Dr. Voyageur's favourite restaurants. So, turn left, westbound, on I-64.

Continue westbound on I-64 to Interstate 81 interchange in Staunton, a classic Virginia farm to market town with several well-known schools.

Go north on I-81 a short distance; exit to westbound on Virginia Highway 250; turn on to westbound on Virginia Highway 254.

After a short distance, still in Staunton, turn left onto Rowe Road to 486 Rowe Road, the home of the Rowe Family Restaurant (telphone 540 886-1833 to confirm opening times), home to some of the finest southern cooking anywhere.

Go for it! Go for it! Go for it! Everything Dr. Voyageur and various friends have tried here is delicious. The family owners are totally committed to serving the best southern food at moderate prices.

For an affectionate and humorous look at everyday Southern cooking, check out "White Trash Cooking", by Ernest Mickler. Also, read Dr. Voyageur's descriptions of great southern menu items in his list of foods to eat while travelling in Canada and the U.S.

Satiated, return east on I-64 to one of America's most historic cities, Charlottesville, Virginia.

Two must sees in Charlottesville. First, just south of downtown, the core buildings of the University of Virginia campus, designed by Thomas Jefferson, are still used today. Be sure to walk around the old campus. And, second, Monticello, Jefferson's home, sits just south of the city itself.

Jefferson, most famous for being the primary writer of the Declaration of Independence and for being the U.S. president who purchased much of what is now the midwestern United States from France, was an American Michelangelo. Dr. Voyageur does not imply that Jefferson could draw or sculpt with the genius of the Italian master. He means that Jefferson had Michelangelo's wide-ranging creativity. In Jefferson's home, everywhere one turns, that creativity is on display. Plan to spend several hours.

Travelling directly from Charlottesville to Washington, D.C., means travelling through miles of ever increasing suburbia and traffic, so we will take another detour.

From Charlottesville, head north on U.S. Highway 29.

Turn west on U.S. Highway 33 to Shenandoah National Park.

Shenandoah, another park origanized during the Great Depression, is as lush and green as we can imagine. Like the Blue Ridge Parkway to its south, Shenandoah offers views in all directions (sometimes marred a bit by smog these days), and, unlike the Blue Ridge Parkway, Shenandoah is wide enough to offer continuous isolation from commercial farming activities as we drive through the park.

However, almost no visitors know that Shenandoah is almost completely artificial. That's right. Man made. A flux wilderness, so to speak. Dr. Voyaguer jokes not.

How can this be, you say? This park is a wilderness with trees everywhere!

True, God grew the trees, but nearly none were here when the park was first developed. This is land that had been cleared for failed subsistence farming. Much topsoil had eroded from these steep slopes, and restoring the land to its current pristine condition took years. Hard to believe when we see the park today. Enjoy.

Turn north on Skyline Drive, the main road through the park. Like the Blue Ridge Parkway, this is not a fast highway.

If traffic is not too heavy (if, for example, you are not travelling on a Saturday, Sunday, or holiday during the summer), continue on Skyline Drive until the park exit at Front Royal. Then take U.S. highways 340 and 522 northbound.

If the traffic is too heavy or you are running out of time, exit Skyline Drive onto westbound U.S. Highway 211, which takes you down the mountain to U.S. Highway 340. Turn north on U.S. 340, a pleasant country road, which joins U.S. 522 northbound at Front Royal.

Crossing into West Virginia again
Instead of taking the overcrowded and tedious Interstate 66 freeway directly into Washington, we, like General Lee heading to Gettysburg in Pennsylvania, will attempt a flanking movement.

Lee almost succeeded in cutting off Washington, D.C., the U.S. capital, and Baltimore, a critical port, from the rest of the loyal states, which might have ended the war in the South's favour. Success would have destroyed the morale of the northern forces and might have led to a compromise end of the war. Lee's truly heroic army failed, but Dr. Voyageur and his loyal cadre of brave students (Anyone who reads this much print on the Internet is really brave) will have success in reaching their goal, Washington. Mark his words!

If you wish an excellent description of the Battle of Gettysburg, perhaps the pivotal battle of the war, read Winston Churchill's History of the English-speaking Peoples available at better libraries. Dr. Voyageur highly recommends this series, which is largely out of print.

North of Front Royal, highways 340 and 522 split. Stay on 340 northbound.

Crossing into West Virginia again, our battalion reaches Harpers Ferry and the Harpers Ferry National Historic Park, a centre of pre-Civil War munitions making and thus military activity. Near here, at Antietam, occurred the bloodiest battle of the war.

During the War between the States, the massive military might on both sides, including the most destructive weapons used to date in war, led to heretofore unknown carnage. Dr. Voyageur attests that he can still feel the sombre vibes of the 1862 Antietam conflict in Harpers Ferry area.

Prior to the war, the U.S. to a large extent, except for some cloth factories in New England, was an bucolic backwater, not a major world power. By the end of the war, the U.S. had the largest standing army in the World. As a consequence, Great Britain decided to change its opposition to its former colonies and build closer ties with a potent potential ally, a policy that bore fruit as Germany unified and grew stronger.

Harpers Ferry, within easy striking distance of Washington, D.C., held a vital strategic position, and thus was the goal of various military campaigns. This town has been preserved as a national historic park, and it is interesting to explore. Its position above the Potomac River is quite picturesque. You can buy good meals from several small cafes or gather picnic items to dine overlooking the river.

Heading toward Washington, D.C.
Continuing north and northeast on U.S. Highway 340, we reach Frederick, Maryland.

Here, drive east on Interstate 70 toward Baltimore.

After several minutes, go south on Interstate 270 toward Washington and its northern suburbs. Although usually fast, this highway is best not taken during weekday morning rush hours.

As we near Washington, we want to get on "Spur 270", marked "Virginia", which leads into Interstate 495 southbound, which is also marked "Virginia". Study a map prior to driving, so doing this and the following will not seem complicated.

Soon, after the River Road interchange, we veer off from Interstate 495 onto the Cabin John Parkway. In other words, in this case we do not follow the signs marked "Virginia".

The Cabin John Parkway leads us into the southbound Clara Barton Parkway, which runs along the Potomac River, toward Washington. Ms. Barton founded the Red Cross, and her nicely landscaped parkway will lead us directly into the vibrant Georgetown area of Washington, which is just west of centre city.

At the point where the Cabin John and Clara Barton parkways join, above the river, on the opposite shore, sits the the Central Intelligence Agency. You cannot see the CIA headquarters through the trees? What did you expect!

Between the Clara Barton Parkway and the Potomac runs the Chesapeake and Ohio Canal, part of a very elongated national historic park. Inland from here, construction on this major attempt to open up the American frontier to trade halted with the development of railways.

Washington, D.C. to New York City
Just over the border of the District of Columbia, the Clara Barton Parkway runs into Canal Road, which in turn leads into "M" Street in Georgetown, an area that predates the planned capital of Washington, D.C. that grew around it.

Be sure to spend time walking around Georgetown, one of the most charming areas of Washington, both day and evening. Many small restaurants and shops are found here, as well as lovingly restored row houses. President Clinton attended Georgetown University here, and Senator John F. Kennedy lived near the corner of "M" and Wisconsin (on "N" Street) prior to becoming president

Parking can be difficult to find in Georgetown, but to avoid expensive towing park legally.

East of Georgetown lies the centre of Washington, including the White House and most major government buildings.

Two excellent guidebooks to use to plan a stay in Washington are:

1) Let's Go USA Canada by the Harvard Student Agencies for a short stay that includes visits to other parts of Canada and the U.S. Its budget travel information is completely updated every year, and

2) Let's Go Washington, D.C. for an in-depth visit or new resident. Like the first, this budget guide is completely updated every year. Both are fun to read.

These guides have outstanding budget accommodation, restaurant, club, and sightseeing information, as well as vital safety information. Please note, however, that both are truly budget guides. You may wish more comfort.

You may significantly reduce hotel or motel costs in D.C. (and elsewhere) by using Hotwire.com or Priceline.com Hotels.

With both, you pick the quality range, neighbourhood (in larger cities like D.C.), and price, but do not learn your hotel name until you pay.

This really saves because hotels can get rid of their excess inventory at rock bottom prices without their full paying customers finding out.

Experiencing Washington, D.C.
Those travellers lucky enough to be seated in left hand seats while landing at Ronald Reagan National Airport from a westerly direction have panoramic views of many Washington landmarks including the Capitol building, Washington National Cathedral, and the Washington Monument.

The White House, however, sometimes hard to pick out amongst its neighbouring office buildings, attracts the most attention--perhaps another sign that power in America's three part federal system has become too skewered toward the Executive Branch.

Landing for many passengers is always exciting, but those who have heard the rumour--the very logical rumour--that missiles are stationed at or near the White House ready to shoot down any plane that comes too close must feel an extra rush of adrenaline while landing.

Moreover, Washington, D.C., in general, brings an extra rush of adrenaline to all visitors. This sometimes beautiful city is fascinating in every way and is a must visit place.

On the other hand, the greatest heightened awareness comes from knowing that considerable danger lurks here. A national shame. Crime stalks every visitor, and travellers must be very careful.

Washington, D.C., is too interesting not to visit, but the best plan is to sightsee in a well-planned frenzy and then to leave as soon as possible. Be especially careful not to become inebriated here and thus not at full alertness when out at night.

Any discussion of safety in urban America opens one to accusations of racialism, particularily in Washington, D.C., whose present conditions have been bred of the most evil racialism. But, Dr. Voyageur understands, unlike some, that American urban dwellers of African descent are the most frequent victims of crime in the United States.

No one realizes more that many urban neighbourhoods have become hell-holes to be avoided than the residents of these very neighbourhoods who feel trapped in their present living arrangements by financial restraints, inferior educational opportunities, and bureaucratic red tape that hinders new business development.

In Washington, more than in most cities in the United States, one is struck by the proximity of the richest and poorest neighbourhoods. And, there is almost no middle ground. The middle classes are found in the mostly white suburbs, not to any great extent in the city. In contrast to other urban areas in the U.S., even the poorest recent immigrants are not attracted to Washington, DC. itself.

The traditional American experience is for each generation to move up in wealth and area of residence. In Washington, however, the great contrast between the wealthy and the poor has made movement from one area to another rare within the city, resulting in what is known as "hyper-segregation".

Although a growing black professional and managerial class resides in the eastern suburbs of Washington, as well as in some areas of Montgomery County, which is north of the city, too few residents have broken the stranglehold of Washington, D.C, hopelessness and bitterness.

In D.C., Dr. Voyageur suggests that travellers restrict most of their sightseeing to government areas and to the wealthier commercial and residential areas. This policy will exclude visits to most black residential and commercial areas. He warns, too, that no area of Washington is free of crime, so stay amongst other people.

In addition, Dr. Voyageur highly recommends taking organized tours such as those offered by Gray Line Tours while in Washington.

For additional safety hints and discussion of some of the underlying issues, please see the Safety lesson. For dealing with the extremely hot Washington, D.C., Summer climate, please see the Health lesson. Washingtonian Magazine has some dining suggestions, cultural event listings, and other tips. Also, Zagat Survey has inexpensive guides for Baltimore and Washington, DC and other northeastern cites that offer invaluable suggestions.

From Washington, D.C. to the Atlantic Ocean
On leaving D.C., for safety reasons, we do not want to drive through the eastern neighbourhoods. Take Dr. Voyageur seriously on these matters.

From the north side of Lafayette Park (Yes, that's the usual American spelling for the Frenchman who gave the U.S. so much help during its revolution against Britain) located on the north side of the White House, Sixteenth Street heads northbound.

Drive north on Sixteenth Street, Northwest, through Washington.

At the northern edge of Washington, D.C., Sixteenth Street reaches a traffic circle. Take either of the major streets that generally continue in the same direction as Sixteenth Street, northbound into Maryland.

Just north of the border of Washington and Maryland, adjacent to the tariff circle, Dr. Voyageur once lived for a short time in one of the large apartment buildings in the Blair complex on the right. Add this to your list of the sights that you've seen!

Keep going in the same direction, north or northeast.

When you reach Interstate 495, the Capital Beltway, as you will by either road, go east toward College Park.

If lost, you just need to ask someone to point you toward the "Beltway", Interstate 495, which circles the Washington area. People across the U.S. joke that the government bureaucrats and others who live or work "inside the Beltway" think differently from the rest of America.

Continue eastbound (and southbound) on I-495 to U.S. Highway 50.

Because of the numerous D.C. area residents driving to the Atlantic beaches via the just one bridge available over Chesapeake Bay, a major bottleneck, Highway 50 should not be travelled eastbound on Summer Friday afternoons and evenings, Saturday mornings, or prior to a holiday.

Head eastbound on Highway 50 toward Annapolis, the Maryland state capital and home of the U.S. Naval Academy. Historic city centre Annapolis is interesting to visit on foot, but it can be very hard to find parking. If too much of a hassle, drive on.

From Annapolis continue eastbound on Highway 50.

After the long bridge over Chesapeake Bay, avoid some traffic by turning eastbound on Maryland State Highway 404, which continues eastbound into Delaware as Delaware State Highway 404.

At Nassau, turn right, southbound, on State Highway One, which becomes Maryland State Highway 528 when we cross the border into Maryland again.

We can pick the Atlantic beach or beaches of our choice to enjoy along this ocean-front highway. Enjoy the glorious white sand and surf here.

Generally, the more we continue southbound the more the route becomes commercialized. Ocean City, Maryland, however, at the end of the road here, is a fun spot and a major summer youth centre. Prices balloon in the summer. Dr. Voyageur bemoans the lack of trees and shade in many of these Atlantic Ocean resorts, but Ocean City is worthwhile to visit.

From our favourite Maryland or Delaware beach, we turn back northbound on Highway 528 or Highway One.

Continue northbound to Lewes, Delaware.

Turn north and east onto U.S. Highway 9.

Follow the signs eastbound to the Lewes Ferry, which will cross the wide entrance of Delaware Bay to New Jersey.

This ferry offers all year service, and its schedules are frequent in Summer. The cost, which depends on the number of passengers and size of vehicle, is low.

New Jersey shoreline
After docking in New Jersey, follow the signs south into the nearby town of Cape May, and try to find parking. You may have to try very hard in this popular place.

Walking around Cape May is a treat. A major resort since the 19th Century, Cape May is an architectural dream. Unlike so many beach towns, including Ocean City, Cape May actually has charm. The crowds can be daunting, however, so after getting the flavour of Cape May, head north.

Follow the signs north along the shoreline to Wildwood, a more modern beach side resort.

Wildwood and its neighbour Wildwood Crest are often very crowded, so continue north on the beach side boulevard to North Wildwood. Here, the beach is so wide that there is room for everyone. This is typical Atlantic shoreline with a very gentle slope into the sea.

Depending on the time available, you can either continue up the coastline here through the beach communities of Stone Harbor, Avalon, Sea Isle City, and Ocean City (the New Jersey one), or you can save time by heading north along the the Garden State Parkway. Dr. Voyageur likes to do a little of both.

For the parkway, from north of North Wildwood take State Highway 147 westbound. Then go north on the Garden State Parkway, a pleasant toll road.

At various points we can exit the parkway, and go back toward the beaches.

In any case, do not take the beach side highway north of Ocean City, New Jersey, as it becomes too congested. Ocean City, by the way, is a quintessential old fashioned summer resort town. A bit run down in spots.

Note that most of these beach communities, except for Atlantic City, sell tags to visitors that permit beach use, a practice never found on the Pacific coast. Enquire locally if tag rules are in effect and are being enforced. Otherwise, you may be fined if you are not wearing a tag on your bathing suit. Dr. Voyageur dislikes this tag system. After all, we are spending money on food, accommodation, etc. in these resort towns.

West of Atlantic City, exit the Garden State Parkway onto the eastbound Atlantic City Parkway, another divided toll highway.

Continue on the Atlantic City Parkway toward the casino highrises. When you can go no further eastbound on a major street in the casino district, turn left and head northbound again.

Soon, you see the distinctive Taj Mahal Casino and its signs looming on the right. Dr. Voyageur likes to park here in the covered parking structure, which at the time of this writing is not expensive. He then high-tails it to the Taj Mahal Buffet, one of the best inexpensive casino buffets anywhere (easily under $10). The American food has been better than the Asian here.

Dr. Voyageur has more information regarding Atlantic City in the his Atlantic City lesson. The big deals are the casinos, of course, the boardwalk along the ocean, and the surprisingly clean beach with nice surf that fronts the main casinos and boardwalk.

Exit Atlantic City on Absecon Boulevard, which is the eastern end of U.S. Highway 30. This route offers many of the less expensive motels in the Atlantic City area.

The other end of Highway 30 is in Astoria, Oregon, at the mouth of the Columbia River, but we will turn north onto the Garden State Parkway, just west of Atlantic City. Oh all right, if you want, head for Astoria, but remember that the explorers Lewis and Clark turned around when they got there.

For a good camping spot, convenient to Atlantic City, reserve the KOA campground near Tuckerton in the midst of a large pine forest. Its rates include tags for use of a beach on Long Beach Island in the Summer and a free shuttle to Atlantic City. New Jersey has few campgrounds, and this must be one of the best.

The KOA web site has contact information, directions (You will need them!), and a full list of amenities, which include air conditioned "Kamper Kabins" for an extra charge. This place is highly recommended.

Beware, however. Arriving very late one very foggy night, Dr. Voyageur headed for his assigned camping spot. It turned out that the recreational vehicle and camping spots use the same numbering system. He was asked to move his tent the next morning, least his kind mingle too long in the KOA RV high rent district.

For Long Beach, from the KOA area head north on U.S. Highway Nine. From both the Garden State Parkway and Highway Nine, turn eastbound on State Highway 72. Once over the bridge and at the beach front, turn either north or south.

The Long Beach area is somewhat similar to Ocean City, Maryland, but it lacks the larger motels and variety of restaurants. The young crowd here is mostly from the Philadelphia area. The steeper beach drop off at Long Beach reminded Dr. Voyageur of southern California.

For fewer crowds, a better place than Highway 72 to exit the Garden State Parkway is at Tom's River. Head eastbound on State Highway 37 to the coast. Then turn right, and go southbound to Island Beach State Park. This park is long enough to offer some solitude. We are getting closer to New York City, however, so do not expect to be completely alone.

Continue north on the Garden State Parkway.

Entering New York City
We do not want to drive into Manhattan due to the very limited and sometimes unsafe street parking and the extreme expense of off-street parking. The tow trucks that drop by if we overextend our time are a powerful negative motivation, too.

One solution is the long-term parking at Newark Airport, which has low rates at several of its lots (See web site) compared to Manhattan.

Exit the Garden State Parkway eastbound on Interstate 78 toward New York City. Then follow the signs to Newark Airport and its long-term parking areas. From adjacent to the Newark Airport terminal buildings, buses run every 20-30 minutes to the Pork Authority Bus Terminal in New York City for around $10. Or, you can grab a ride on an authorized van directly to your hostel or hotel for under $25.

Another solution, parking at suburban train stations, gets harder all the time. Both New Jersey and New York have enormously improved their commuter train networks. Gone are the filthy cattle car-like environments that never ran on time. Therefore, new customers are flocking to the suburban rail stations and taking room needed for adjacent commercial district parking.

The towns, evidently believing that more revenue is lost than gained from these new daily visitors, are posting steep fees and time limits for non residents.

If you do find a spot, frequent train service departs for New York Penn Station. The fares, which depend on the time of travel, are low, especially the return excursion fares. The New Jersey Transit web site has information, or better yet, do not worry about this, as we are not talking about much money.

We are strayed a long way from the original U.S. Highway 66, yet we have seen a wonderful cross section of the United States, which will remain with us forever.

Route 66 travelling hints
Bus or auto travellers can travel in either direction. Train passengers may too, but Dr. Voyageur enjoys the trip east best, as more of his favourite places are passed in daylight, especially in the winter.

Must stops for auto, coach, and train travellers are Las Vegas and the Grand Canyon. Also, try to allow time to explore the area around Santa Fe, New Mexico. Auto and coach travellers will enjoy an overnight stop in Tucumcari, New Mexico, whose main street retains much of the "Route 66" flavour of its 1950's heyday.

Because its midday colours can be muted and disappointing if we dart in just for a day, be sure book an overnight stay at the Grand Canyon well ahead of time. Gold star DrVoyageur.com students will visit the canyon rim at both sunrise and sunset.

Besides the information here, several great guides to use for trip planning and for picking the best places to stay and to eat are

Let's Go USA Canada by the Harvard Student Agencies. Outstanding, comprehensive coverage. It's completely updated every year to give the most up-to-date information available on truly budget accommodation, restaurants, clubs, etc. Fun to read.

Hostels USA

You may get great hotel and motel prices along this route by using a service that does not tell you your hotel name until you pay.

Hotwire.com (no bidding) and Priceline.com Hotels (bidding) are the two best. You pick the quality range, neighbourhood (in larger cities like Las Vegas), and price, but do not learn your hotel name until you pay. This really saves.