User:Hoylegj/sandbox

Rules used to get a 1959 Custom Ford Popular 103e through the BIVA - Basic Individual Vehicle Approval test

Objective : -  is to explain in simple terms the rules for putting a custom car on the road legally

Overview of BIVA - Basic Individual Vehicle Approval
Who's eligible for a BIVA test

What you need to know to get your build thought a BIVA test
The Numbers shown in [] are the section to reference in the IVA M1 Inspection Manual

The IVA M1 Inspection Manual can be found at https://www.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/354071/M1_IVA_inspection_manual.pdf

Terminology
Floor Line see [Annex 1]

EXTERIOR:

 * Generally No sharp edges (checked with the 100mm ball), 2.5mm radius rounding's (5mm dia)
 * I rounded where possible, gutters and alike required a plastic cover
 * Grills and recessed area's are checked with a 40mm all, anything the ball touches must be blunted
 * Objects tat do not protrude more then 5mm, need to be blunted (including screw heads)
 * General fix is plastic covers
 * Door handles - the gap between the end of the handle and the door must be less then 2mm
 * Boot Handle ?

The IVA tester needs to agree all edge protectors are "permanent"

These where bought from CarBuilder Solutions for about £5 a meter, I think I used 14 meters in total!

Example, Old MK1 mini style grills wont pass with the moustache as the grill slats are open ended on the bottom 3, they are too sharp.

Wiper blades are exempt from the radius rules but I had to file my ones down to get the 'sharp' edges off.

Wiper Jets, buy SVA approved platic ones from CarBuilder Solutions as the aftermarket mini ones are to sharp.

Remove and rubber plug the whole for a standard radio antenna. one less thing to pass hard edges.

BODYWORK:
Cycle Wings: - Make sure the cycle wings don’t touch the bodywork/lights at any point. You may need to install some collets on the steering rack to restrict the steering lock. Some people have put jubilee Clips under the rubber boots but this is a short term solution. Ensure your cycle wings cover the front of the rims vertically. You can usually test this by eye. If edges of Cycle wings don’t have a returning edge, fit rubber over all edges. Some people have been known to fail on the non radiuses portion on the rear edge of the nosecone at the front side edges of the bodywork, edge with rubber if required.

Windscreen:
Must be Glass, see the 'GLASS' section

Wiper Motor:
If fitted inside the cabin, Cover the Windscreen wiper motor with a cover from Mini or Land Rover.

Number Plate:
Although you don't need one for the SVA, If fitted, don’t forget to fit rubber edging around rear edge. You do require a number plate light though.

Scuttle:
- Fit a rubber edging on the scuttle return and cover retaining bolts with rubber foam or caps.

CABIN:
 * 1) No sharp edges, 2.5mm rounding's
 * 2) under dash must be padded ?

INTERIOR:
Everything in the cabin space needs to be blunted off down to a radius of 2.5mm

Buy a couple of packs of nut / bolt caps and cap everything you can find!

the internal Mirror needs to have an E rating on it. I found that my one didn't show it on the glass but was on the plastic backing which was enough. it was a standard late mini plastic suction version.

after market door handles and winders on a mini wont do very well as they are unforgiving hard lumps of metal. I used old school plastic handles, but I rounded off the edges with a file. I left off the door handles / pullers as I just used the glass or the doors to shut the doors.

Seats need to have a headrest and be securely mounted to the floor. I used and passed this segment with Cobra Monaco Buckets.

Setbelts and mountings - Don't use Zcars's loop wholes on the subframe as they don't have a Metal rating on the steel. (or at least they don't have on my frame) I bought 2 front seatbelts from carbuilder solutions which were static 3 point belts which were about £30 each, they were SVA approved with all the E ratings on them and the product box. I used the Securicon Bolts which came in the pack which had the 8.8 grade steel needed. I secured them to the standard mini wholes on the door pillar sill and next to the hand brake. this passed the inspectors test.

The gear knob from zcars in my kit was a torpedo style billet alloy one glued to the gear stick. this is to sharp and was replaced by an aftermarket plastic / leather effort.

SWITCHES: you must not be able to in pail yourself on them DEAD AREA BEHIND THE STEERING WHEEL : Pad the underneath of any dash you have. anything that your leg might hit an an accident. crash cage pipe lagging from rally design did it for me.
 * 1) push button
 * 2) rocker
 * 3) toggle type with bars to protect them, can plastic covers be used on toggle switches?

Apart from there is an exempt area behind the steering wheel with about 10 cm extra from the steering wheels radius. So mount everything you can behind it! speedo, bonnet release handle, switches and dials. as long as they are secure and wont fall off they can be pig ugly. the reason being is that you would hit the steering wheel before hitting them.

under the dash (from the lowest part of the steering wheel, level forwards to the floor) needs 2.5 radius but only forward facing. it does mean however that electric wires etc will need to be covered and don't worry about the pedal assemblies as they are usually exempt.

MIRRORS:
General: - Wing Mirrors have to have a 70mm x 40mm rectangular area of glass and within that, you should be able to fit a 70mm line horizontally. In other words, you need a 70mm height somewhere along the length of the mirror. Interior mirror is needed but a passenger mirror is not but advisable.

DASHBOARD:
Switches: - Fog light switch requires a tell tale light. You must have a brake test light on the dash. This can be in the form of a test switch or a bulb wired into the handbrake circuit brake reservoir circuit. This is then both a test and warning device. It must also have the correct symbol (!) or similar.

General: - Bottom of dash need 19mm radius if rigid or 5mm if padded. Don't leave any sharp edges at the rear return either. Under dash bolts need to be covered (if protruding) with caps and all wires secure.

STEERING:
For conventional manual or power assisted steering systems this item requires only basic safety checks for function and effort. Notes :- STEERING: Track Rods: - Cover track rod end nuts with rubber hosing tie wrapped into place.
 * Must have a collapsible column
 * 1) sliding joint and U/C's at the bottom
 * 2) collapsible steering head

Steering Column: - If you don’t have a collapsible steering column, ensure that the dogleg on the UJ’s is 10 degrees or more. Ensure the column does not rub against any chassis or engine parts.

Steering Wheel: - Detachable steering wheels are not allowed, replace with a suitable padded wheel for the test. Fit a collapsible steering wheel boss, only around £40.00 and worth it for safety sake. Needs to have many safety features, Lower half needs Sliding clamps with universal joints. Upper have needs to collapse if you were to hit it. Zcars do a kit that you weld in that has sliding bearings in the upper segment which would work fantastic but you need to have a mechanical steering lock. I bought a ford fiesta column and stole the indicator stalks / key and steering lock mechanism from it which unfortunately stopped the sliding bearings working as the assembly needed bracing for the lock to function. This can be rectified (so I'm told by VOSA) with an aftermarket steering wheel boss with a collapsable element to it. I found that Momo did one for the fiesta column end. The problem then is that the steering wheel itself needs to be safety. finding an aftermarket steering wheel that has a soft rounded centre and spokes is nearly impossible. remember you have to pass the radius rules with this.

I have bought some leather and am going to make a padded centre which is taught over the spokes and boss mounting screws to lessen the sharp edges.

I am going to use a Momo competition steering wheel as the grip is not solid and has a good radius.

Remember that the steering wheel, if enormous, can provide some good dash exempt areas.

needs to be very securely mounted to the car so that it wont even with human arm force move side to side or up and down.

GLASS:
[45 Safety Glass]
 * ECE Regulation 43 is the only glass specifications allowed, Front screen and front side windows must comply
 * Rear side windows and the back window may be plastic but must have the E rating Logo in each part


 * All Glass needs to have an E rating logo.
 * A typical code would be E11 43R

E = Country Code 1-Germany, 2-France, 3-Italy, 4-Netherlands, 5-Sweden, 6-Belgium, 7-Hungary, 8-Czechia, 9-Spain, 10-Yugoslavia, 11-England, 12-Austria, 13-Luxembourg, 14-Switzerland, 16-Norway, 17-Finland, 18-Denmark, 19-Romania, 20-Poland, 21-Portugal, 22-Russia, 23-Greece, 24-Ireland, 25-Croatia, 26-Slovenia, 27-Slovakia, 28-Belarus, 29-Estonia, 31-Bosnia and Herzegovina, 32-Latvia, 37-Turkey, 42-EEC, 43-Japan.

43R = Conformity with the European standard of safety ECE R43

E code source, http://www.elsie.com.ua/eng/mark.html

LIGHTS:
[23 Direction Indicators]

[24 Rear Registration Lamps]

[25 Headlamps]

[26 Front Fog Lamps 28 Rear Fog Lamps]

[29 Reversing Lamps]

[30 Parking Lamps]

Every light needs to adhere to the min / max height of the regulations. for a mini this was all ok if you jack the suspension as high as it will go so thats its on tip toes.

the Fog light location needs moving above the bumper line even with the suspension high. the fog light needs to be mounted exactly vertical. (i failed on this) Headlights need to be the later type flat lenses without the locating nipples sticking out of the glass.

Front: - Light brackets need covering around the base of the headlight. Wrap some u-channel and either glue on or bolt headlight down onto it. Adjust the headlights by shining your tin top car lights at a wall, mark wall and then adjust your lights to match. You won’t go far wrong although the SVA guys have been known to give you a chance to adjust at the centre.

Rear Lights: - Even though these are standard items, check they have the 2.5mm Radius, if not sand off with Wet and Dry paper and polish

Fog/Reverse: - Fit rubber beading around edges of fog lights between the lens and the casing (according to which type you get)

General: - Read the lighting regulations with reference to the light positioning/measurements. Don’t forget the widest point of the car is the rear arches so measure this and work from there. Fog Lights are a requirement and they must have a tell tale light on the dashboard.

Here is a quick check diagram for FRONT & REAR with which you can check your car against

EXHAUST:
Guard: - If you fit an exhaust guard, ensure if is flush with the leading edge of the silencer and covers as much of the exhaust clamp as possible.

Noise: - If you can, get the noise level checked before SVA, remember the limit is 101 decibels.

Outlet: - Exhaust outlet must have a 2.5 mm radius so must any other parts inc brackets.

at the time of writing this I had to pass 99Db at 3/4 peak power of the engine, static.

The tail pipe needs to be beaded so its not sharp following the radius rules.

Has to have a Cat and at least one silencer. If your Exhaust Manifold exit is on the large side, edge it as it may cause a problem on radiuses.

WHEELS:
The top half of the wheel inc rim and tyre needs to be under the arch (when looked from above). with the zcars kit its a matter of getting wide arches or adjusting the suspension so that its still 4 wheel-aligned but with them further into the car.

All tyres need to match and be in good nick, treed depth… speed rating etc.

General: - If you can’t fit covers over the wheel nuts, make sure you fit enclosed type nuts with radiuses. Don’t forget the spare wheel retaining bolts. Check you don't have directional Tyres fitted to the wrong side although this is simple to rectify.

ENGINE:
Must be able to pass the emissions tests based on the engine year,

Tuned to pass an idle test and fast idle test, not to over heat during the tests static without a fan assistance on the rad or engine bay. it takes about 15 to 30 mins for this test.

ENGINE BAY:
The engine bay of a zcars mini has jolly pain in the backside all ventilation due to where it is, my one started melting the boot lid paint during the emissions tests and was failed because of it. this needs vents in the boot and or a fan to help expel the very hot air. this is only a problem when the car is stationary.

FUEL SYSTEM:
Every pump, tank, filter, Pipe and T-Piece needs bolting to the car every 10 - 15 cm. The fuel pipes need to have manufacturer labels on them to guarantee that they are fit for purpose.

The tank needs to not leak and be securely mounted.

The fuel tank filler cap needs to be either tethered to the car (i used an old mini boot lid stay wire) or lockable where the key is stuck in the cap until its back on the car.

The Fuel tank needs to be mounted where if you were in a crash nothing sharp would puncture the tank. so the battery is not good under the radiator. equally the via man said that the heat from the radiator is enough of a problem and needs a shield / metal ducting securing to the front of the tank to act as a safety barrier from the heat of the radiator blowing on it.

every single whole on where a pipe passes through needs a grommet.

BRAKES:
The pedals need to be covered in rubber or self adhesive grippy tape, again car builder solutions helped with this.

Needs to be a Front / back split system. they prefer copper pipes with flexible points for the suspension parts. Every Pipe and T-Piece needs bolting to the car every 10 - 15 cm.

The flexible pipes need to have manufacturer labels on them - like speedflow to guarantee that they are fit for purpose. This includes the reservoir to master cylinder pipes, they need to be able see what they are made from and if they are suitable for holding brake fluid.

must not leak.

Need to have a Brake Symbol on the reservoirs so that numpties don't fill it with anything other than brake fluid.

Needs to have a brake line pressure driven brake light switch which operate with the engine off. every single whole on where a pipe passes through needs a grommet.

The balance bar for the brakes needs the threads welding up along the bar so it can never be adjusted.

Front: - Aero quips must not rub on any anything when moving from lock to lock. You could also cover them with spiral wrap to protect them. Some centres may allow you to tie-wrap them to the cycle wing stays.

Rear: - Test brakes if possible, ensure there is around 60/40 biased towards the front as you don't want the rear overtaking the front on hard braking.

Handbrake: - The Escort Handbrake lever lower edges has edges that are too sharp, file off and ensure 2.5mm radius is met or cover in some way.

General: - Make sure the brakes are not spongy, re-bleed if necessary. ''

ELECTRICS:
07 - Needs to have a working horn that emits a continuous uniform sound.

Every wire needs bolting to the car every 10 - 15 cm.

Mount the battery in the cabin behind the drivers seat, not it the front with the fuel tank. (i failed on this) Spiral wrap all wires and or use electrical loom tape to cover all wires.

Digidash have a free firmware upgrade for the Digidash lite which allows you to put the dash into "road" mode which complies with the new standard of always showing the speed rating from the moment you turn the key. I had the old firmware which warned about things like fuel level alert over the top of the speed. (you need to send it to them)

Protect the wires on the boot lid for the lit number plate and around the exhaust with protective heat wrap / sleeves.

every single whole on where a wire passes through needs a grommet.

Engine Bay: - Take particular care in the engine bay covering with heat shield tape where possible.

General: - All electrical cables must be covered in some way using spiral wrap or conduit. Ordinary electrical tape is not acceptable for the SVA. Ensure all wiring that passed through any bodywork has been grommeted.

PIPEWORK:
Fuel: - Fuel pipes should be secured using fuel clips if possible. Some but not all Centres allow jubilee clips, I would suggest beforehand with your local centre.

General: - Make sure brake pipes, fuel lines and electrical cables don’t cross each other and are Secured at 8-10 inches minimum. Use P-clips, cable ties or sticky pads to secure.

SEATBELTS:
[31 Seat Belts]

Note 1: A British Standard BS3254 Part 1 1988 or evidence of FIA 8853-98 approval for a harness belt is acceptable Note 2: A suitable single bolt fixing of adequate strength would be, for example, a bolt of at least 11mm (7/16") diameter of grade 8.8 (the grade may not be shown on a bolt produced for a seat belt anchorage).

General: - If fitting top eyebolts, make sure they sit facing forward, pack with washers if necessary. Always use correct bolts (8.8 quality or stronger) and fit spacers if belts foul on the seats. All securing bolts must fit fully through the boss with threads showing, a common failure apparently.

SUSPENSION:
General: - Cover all nuts with plastic caps, split them and glue on if necessary. Check and double check all suspension parts are torque'd down correctly. Check the radius on the bottom of the shock absorbers, some have been known to fail on this item.

PRIOR TO TEST
Paperwork: - Paperwork takes between 10-14 days to go through the DVLA so book early. If you are not ready in time, cancel it and re-book remembering that a 3 working day notice of cancellation is required.

MOT: - It’s probably a good idea to have an MOT before the SVA. This will give you a good idea if it will pass and may pick up any problems you have missed.

ON THE DAY:

Tips: - Take plenty of tools, foam, tie-wraps etc to the test centre as some places will allow you to rectify small problems there and then, this may save you failing in the long run. Remember to be polite and courteous, you don't want to upset them at such a late stage. Arrive on time, after-all, you want to get your car on the road asap don't you.

Many thanks to ......

retrorides.proboards.com/thread/75786/basic-biva-rules
"having had so much time and effort put into my mini to pass the IVA test I thought I would share my findings so that other people can benefit.

General Radius tools - I bought one from ebay for about £5-10 if its not there they cant fail it! so don't put unnecessary kit in the car to IVA it. paperwork to back up pipes / seatbelts / seats / vehicle design weights / insurance...

westfield-world.com/svachecklist.html
Suspension Jack it up as high as it will go! secure every lock nut. the setup must be able to self centre the steering when driving slowly. "