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New decade: The main trends in the fashion industry
At the end of 2019, many fashion media traditionally summed up the fashion results of the year and tried to discern the trends for 2020. However, this time it's not just a new year but a new decade, and therefore the analytics should be more serious - perhaps it will determine the main trends of the next few years, writes Business Online.

Trendsetters 2020
International fashion search platform Lyst (104 million shoppers in 2019), in its annual report, states that in the past year, people were interested in inclusiveness (the number of searches for adaptive and discreet fashion increased by 80% and 90%, respectively) and sustainable fashion (sustainable jeans and sneakers have become the most sought-after product categories). In addition, "in a year of political turbulence, consumers have expressed interest militarily." The fashion plan of 2020, according to Lyst, will also depend on the political one. In anticipation of flights to Mars and testing of Elon Musk's reusable rocket, interest in space style will increase, the Tokyo Olympics will entail Japanese mania, and on the eve of the US presidential election, buyers will wait for political statements from brands.

"Today, it is impossible to talk about fashion(Khadi in the global fashion ) trends without appealing to social factors," analysts of the fashion industry forum Be In Open believe. In a review of trends in 2020, they note that the global trend towards sustainable consumption, including recycling and the use of recyclable materials, has not yet taken root in the minds of Russians. "As many owners of domestic resale projects assure, people are tired of synthetics and things from the mass market "before the first wash," so they choose vintage or high-quality second-use branded items," Be In Open says. Moreover, they admit that the process of promoting conscious consumption has already been launched. Against this background, clothing sales in Russia are falling for the first time since 2015.

Analysts call the widespread use of 3D printing and wearable technologies. Another trend of 2020 - some brands are already working with 3D printers. "The promotion of sustainable fashion, wearable technologies, new sustainable materials, and 3D printing should change the attitude towards clothing consumption in the world in the next few years, and therefore seriously affect fashion trends," Be In Open believes.

At the same time, forum analysts also observe the opposite trend - the world's passion for local cultures and traditional production methods. "We have already seen how technology destroys tradition. Now we don't want to see it. We want to see dialogue, not conflict. And this is also because the world is in anticipation of serious political conflicts," emphasized in Be In Open.

Forum analysts identified five global trends for 2020. They adapted them to the Russian cultural context: ethnic identity (represented by the Jahnkoy brand, Krestetskaya line), mystical attitude, traditional asceticism (associated with Muslim aesthetics and modest fashion), an aestheticization of the bad taste (against the popularity of the 90s and zero) and the rejection of trends in favor of artistic originality.

"We need to create something that will be interesting to buyers. And in reality, it is much more difficult."

In turn, analysts of The Business of Fashion portal note the growing pessimism in the fashion industry. According to McKinsey, a consulting firm, growth will continue to slow as market players struggle to keep up with everything from being technologically advanced to becoming more inclusive and meeting the demands of the industry amid the trend towards sustainable consumption.

The BOF highlighted topics relevant to the fashion industry, such as caution in the face of increased risks of modernity, development outside of China, promotion in social networks pertinent to the new generation, presence of brands in small convenience stores, transformation towards sustainable consumption, use of innovative materials, the development of inclusiveness, the sale of the product abroad on electronic platforms, new services for selling directly to the buyer and digital reorganization (against the backdrop of the development of digital platforms for the sale of clothes).

Retail consultant Doug Stevens argues on Fashionista that the main obstacle to the development of fashion brands now is not the lousy state of the economy or the trend towards secondary consumption but their inability to change by the spirit of the times. According to him, the manufacturer has only two ways to increase sales - to sell what no one else has or in a manner that no one sells. "They need to create something that will be interesting to buyers. And in reality, it is much more difficult than in words," the expert emphasizes.

He notes that retailers who continue to see customer acquisition as the primary function of advertising will not be able to effectively build sales online, and those who consider their stores only as a distribution point will not be in business in the next decade. The Vogue Business portal cites the beauty brand Glossier as an example, which looks like the perfect Instagram location. There are about 2 thousand people there per day, and about 50 thousand per month, while Business Online sources note that it is tough to get there because of the queues.

Outerwear brand Canada Goose has gone one step further and created an immersive space out of its store - an arctic zone with temperatures below 15 degrees Celsius. Visitors can put on the brand's jackets and explore the area, thus gaining a sensory experience from visiting the store. Moreover, Stevens predicts that in the new decade, brands will not only have to respond to change but also positively change society, and more effectively than the government of a country or region does.

Who will be the next Anna Wintour?

In another article, The Business of Fashion argues that the so-called industry veterans, who determined the direction of its development for many years, are now out of work. They cite the Proenza Schouler brand as an example - in 2011, its designers Jack McCullough and Lazaro Hernandez received a profile in American Vogue. They were shot by the famous glossy photographer Mario Testino. Actress Kristen Stewart posed on the cover of the magazine in designer clothes. A few months later, they sold part of the company's shares to a solid investor, and a year later, they opened their first store on Madison Avenue (one of the leading fashionable streets of New York Manhattan). Everyone called the brand "the future of American luxury fashion."

However, now, almost a decade later, the brand's principal partner, Barney's department store, is in the process of bankruptcy, Testino lost his job at Conde Nast due to allegations of sexual harassment, and the designers themselves are looking for investors and closing the very store on Madison Avenue. American Vogue is drastically cutting its advertising budget and paying more attention to streetwear. France and Italy continue to outpace the US in the global fashion race.

"Proenza Schouler had it all: the endorsement of Anna Wintour, celebrity fans like Stewart, links to Barneys, Ikram, and other high-profile stores across the country, awards from the American Fashion Designers Association and the Vogue Fashion Foundation, and the iconic PS it-bag. -one. They did everything right, but this was not enough to become a successful and wealthy brand. Now the decisions of the "guardians of fashion" will not ensure your success," the portal authors write and emphasize: now, social networks, namely fashion bloggers and influencers, determine the trends. The publication cites the example of Louis Vuitton and Off-White creative designer Virgil Abloh, who became famous thanks to the recognition of a growing army of Internet fans.

BOF concludes that the next Anna Wintour will not be one editor-in-chief but hundreds of thousands of people looking for the products they want and the personalities that inspire them. "To hell with approval," concludes the portal. If we return to Lyst's research, then in the list of viral products, you can find, for example, Vetements bear-shaped slippers (which have "meme" potential), and Bottega Veneta is among the breakthrough brands (their "dumpling" bag was lit up on Instagram). "many influencers) and Jacquemus (they also distinguished themselves with the Le Chiquito micro bag popular with bloggers and showed the spring-summer 2020 collection in lavender fields - the most "Instagram" location). Both Abloh and Simon Port Jacquemus deliberately do not act according to the rules of the fashion industry - and they win because in an environment of global rejection of both political,