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KAIVAN MISTRY (1968-2000)

Kaivan Mistry was born in Bombay on 17 September 1968. After completing his education he moved on to become one of Bombay's most respected lighting designers and a name in the theatre circuit. But mountains were his first love. Kaivan was an avid trekker in the Western Ghats and a regularly seen at the rocks around Bombay.

In 1989 Kaivan undertook his first trek to the Himalaya, to the Annapurna Base Camp in Nepal. In 1990 he visited the Gangotri area for a trek to Dodital and then on to Tapovan. Kaivan loved being in the mountains and the happiness of being in the surroundings he loved so much was most visible and explicit on his face at all times on a trek. He underwent his formal training at NIM, Uttarkashi in 1992. In 1993 Kaivan took part in the Kullu - Spiti Lahaul expedition they explored the Ratang valley in great detail and crossed four high passes and climbed Parahio (5920 m). Subsequently he visited Rupi-Sorang valley in Kinnaur another unexplored area of the Himalaya with Harish Kapadia.

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Kaivan Mistry Kaivan Mistry

Kaivan's first major expedition was the Indo-British Kinnaur expedition in 1994 which was led by Harish Kapadia and Chris Bonington. The expedition made the first ascent of Rangrik Rang and climbed Manirang (6593 m). Kaivan himself made the first ascents of Mangala (5800 m), Saponang (5836 m) and Ghunsarang (5800 m). In 1995 we visited the Tso Moriri region in SE Ladakh. We reached the lake after a few days in Leh and then rode up to the base camp of Chhamser Kangri on horses. Ladakh sun beating down hard, made it difficult to move out in the open in the afternoon. We had to find a variety of methods of cooling ourselves. One afternoon we strolled into the mess tent to find Kaivan sitting with 2 Laukis (Bottlegourd) on his head and one under his shirt. We looked in amazement thinking our Parsi bawa had gone mad. Harish shot off Kaivan 'gando thai gayo' (Kaivan has gone mad) only to find out a few minutes later that our ingenious friend had discovered that the Laukis were the coolest thing around and were really helping him keep cool in the extreme heat. A few minutes later all of us raided the kitchen and were all sitting around with the balance Laukis on our heads.

He was a good climber but never over-ambitious about climbing. He enjoyed climbing, slow and steady relishing the views and clicking away with his camera. Whenever we used to push ourselves unnecessarily one tug on the rope and a smiling Kaivan pointed out 'Su che baba, relax guys enjoy yourself instead'. His smile was always the calming influence and it helped diffuse many a situation. Kaivan along with Harish went on to make the first ascent of Lungser Kangri (6666 m) and also climbed Chhamser Kangri (6622 m) and then trekked across northern Rupshu over 11 passes.

In 1997 we visited the Garhwal region traversing attempting to cross the Panpatia valley into the Madhyamaheshwar valley. In the second part of the trip we crossed the high passes in the Bhagat Kharak and Arwa glaciers. While some of us recceed the route ahead Kaivan made quick ascents of Deo Dekhni I (5400 m) and II (c. 5360 m). Difficult situations rarely unfazed Kaivan. While descending the difficult Shrak la into the Arwa glacier we had to descend a rather steep rock and ice wall next to an avalanche-chute. As the day wore on avalanches of all sizes poured down and one particular almost touched and had us all clinging to the rock face. As it whizzed passed, leaving us coated in a blanket of snow, we looked at each other trembling only to see Kaivan smiling and exclaiming 'Bachi gaya ave jaldi uthro' (Saved now lets rush down). He always bust out in Parsi Gujarati.

Kaivan was our handyman on all the trips. The trips many times equipment was damaged, stoves not functioning, radio not working or camera is shut. Any problem and out came Kaivan with his repair bag and somehow improvised and always solved the problem. Torn tents were mended with tapes stuck in a funny manner, stoves repaired with whatever was at hand - but finally it all worked.

Kaivan meanwhile became an active part of the team that produced the Himalayan Journal and was responsible for the indexing of the Journal from Vol 49 onwards. In June 1998 he visited the Siachen glacier in the Eastern Karakoram. Kaivan along with the team managed to reach the historic India Saddle and the Turkestan la at the head of this long glacier.

In 2000, Kaivan had injured the ligament on his ankle just a few weeks before he was to leave for the Karakoram. Determined as he was Kaivan exercised and nursed his ankle back to shape and went off on the expedition. This was the Indo-French Expedition to Rimo IV. The team reached the historic Karakoram Pass (5569 m), Col Italia and explored the Central Rimo glacier systems. On 25 September 2000 on the way back while crossing the swollen Shyok river near Gapshan, tragedy struck. Kaivan slipped and fell into the river and lost his life.

The Himalayan Club lost an enthusiastic and promising member and we lost a close friend. Kaivan will live on in our hearts and minds and his spirit still roams the mountains he loved so dearly. A memorial stone was placed in Kaivan's name at the Polu Memorial in Galwan Valley, near Karakoram Pass in Kashmir.