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French cuisine during the reign of Louis XIV

From the beginning of 17th century Louis XIV has personified France and French culture. "The Great Century" was the time when France was the leader of modern world, the country gained success in many different areas. French cousine was a reflection of that. Heavy medieval flavors were replaced with modern ones; local herbs and new vegetables were used instead of exotic spices and salty meat. Freshness of food gained importance. However the exaggeration in the amount of food makes it impossible to call French cuisine from that period healthy.

Cookbooks
Many people, even those not related to high society of Versailles, started to get interested in the culinary art during the reign of Louis XIV. In cities such as Paris a bound in leather work "French Chef" by François Pierre La Varenne was available. The book was the first thesis dealing with innovations in the art of cooking and it was revolutionary. Preparing meals was shown step by step, which is known to be crucial for the final result. Varenne replaced lard with butter, taught how to reduce sauces and use proteins. He also added the first recipe for popular mille-feuille (a type of pastry) and sauce hollandaise. 40 years after releasing ‘French Chef” the book "The royal and middle-class chef who teaches how to prepare all most fashionable and tasteful meals. The book very useful at home and especially useful for all restaurateurs and chefs, with the consent of the King " by Chef François Massialot has gained popularity. In this one you can find recipes tailored to the seasons, vegetarian meals and ‘things that are not in the cookbooks published before, presented with a much greater mastery and better taste’ how humbly prompts the author. Duke of Orleans, the Marquis d'Arcy and apparently even the king himself tasted some of Massialot’s refections.

The court
Louis XIV introduced major changes to art of eating. The royal dinner was held in the Spanish ceremonies. The king wearing ceremonial dress, a hat and ribbons of medals on his chest sat at the table on a erected platform. Regardless how uncomfortable it may sound, the guest had to sit leaning forward as a sign of courtesy .Cutlery had to be made of silver or gold. Regal dinners were public, usually a hundred people watched dignitaries, princes of blood, a great cook, cellarer, clicker accompany the king’s  meal. Sometimes a small band of wind instruments was an additional entertainment. Meals were brought by chefs and butlers, always escorted by six musketeers under the command of an officer. Before entering the hall one taster was selected (never two times in a roll) to try every dish under the supervision of the convoy, for monarch’s safety was the prime concern. Finally, the sound of trumpets indicated that dishes were ready for serving. Cutting meat, pouring wine or braking bread were privileges reserved only for most noble participants. Unfortunately, king complained of heartburn for long-lasting ceremony made the food cold. By the end of Louis’s reign some changes were introduced; the monarch now sat in the middle of a long table, with guests of honor in front of him and lords and ladies around. There were some label rules in force, for instance the king should be answered right away, leading some guests to choke. Also it was necessary to finish eating at the exact same time with him, which was a challenge because the roylal appetite was immense. Louis used to say: ‘it is impossible for a man of great throat and stomach not to be one of the fairer people in my country.’ Monarch preferred roasted, heavily salted, bacon stuffed meat, especially venison. Wine was kept up by the ministry, the monarch preferred the sweet spanish types. From Germany beautifully decorated pies were brought to the court. Sometimes they contained of a surprise, once after lifting the top a dove flew out. It was a gift for one of the royal favorites. Finally, deserts were served as the feast's final chord. Confectioners were mainly Italians, considered the best in this field. Delicacies fit for the wine, coffee and herbs (in case of heartburn). Tea was regarded by most as a drug at that time, it was highly consumed at the end of the 17 th century under the influence of the Dutch, importing it from Japan.

Cities
Preparing such feasts was out of reach even for wealthy citizens. However it was a matter of pride to arrange a party with douzens of great dishes, it proved hospitality and welath. Drunkenness and gluttony indicated success of a feast. In the 17th moderation was not popular, especially in eating. The French have never had enough of both food and talking about food.

Countryside
In the countryside, of course, people did not use the trendiest of the cookbooks, but peasant meals were less modest than you might imagine. Baked once in a week, bread was a very well- liked refection supplement. Stale bread was used only if one prepared miaulée- "This is bread soaked in sweet wine, cider, or another good drink. Children from rural areas like miaulée". During the holidays bread was replaced by unleavened bread baked in the ashes of pottage, instead of soup. Pottage was made of eggs, milk and sugar but it was not an everyday appetizer. Usually it was given to a young couple the day after the wedding, "solemnly and joyfully." It was well known in the countryside that preparing a delicious soup requires adding bread cooked in meat sauce; vegetable and meat soups were very popular. Also cheese was excessively consumed. Sunday was the time to afford yourself some treats, chicken, eggs, pease were prepared on a pan or in a kettle. Vine fitted most meals; vineyard owners made it from mill cake, the peasants of Normandy or Perche prepared cider. From fried cherries and sugar villagers made vodka.