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Coquette aesthetic
The Coquette aesthetic is a 2020s fashion trend defiantly challenging conventional style norms with its distinctive aesthetic. Centered on an embrace of sweet, romantic and playful elements, that focus on femininity through its whimsical fusion of frills, lace, hearts, and abundant ribbons, often draws inspiration from historical periods like the Victorian era and the 1950s, with a modern twist.

Significance and History
The word "coquette" comes from the French, the Oxford Dictionary defines the word as "a woman who flirts." The aesthetic can be traced to 2010s Tumblr as the origin of this online iteration of coquette is in the "Nymphette" aesthetic on Tumblr. Drawing influence from the novel Lolita and its portrayal and oversexualization of the media. The book, published by Vladamir Nabokov in 1995, is told from the perspective of a middle-aged man, Humbert Humbert, who abuses Dolores Haze, a 12-year-old girl whom he refers to as Lolita, who is also the daughter of his alleged love interest. This extremely disputed work repeats and intertwined motifs and themes about young girls and sensuality, particularly via the lens of an older male gaze, resulting in its glorification. Young girls online tried to look like a young girl who seduces older men. Stanley Kunbrick adapts the tale to cinema in 1962, ageing Dolores from 12 to 16 and drastically reducing the abuse of the relationship despite still being portrayed as a young girl.

In the rise of its popularity in 2020, coquette dominated this region through the influence of social media platforms like X and TikTok. On these platforms, individuals have been adorning ordinary items such as meals, drinks and even money with bows, all in the name of coquette. Unlike the assertive, hot pink Barbie brand of feminism, which emphasizes professional success, sisterhood, and challenging the patriarchy, coquette takes pride in its lack of depth.

This aesthetic has been characterized as both a way to relive and express creativity through childhood fantasies, and a way to "fully escape into...femininity without feeling guilty about it," while ultimately being "self-aware and playful". It allows strong women can also see themselves as feminine, delicate and innocent, moving away from the previous stereotype that female empowerment leads to masculinization. Simultaneously, the coquette aesthetic seeks to defend femininity without sexualization, and to celebrate things that were once a source of ridicule or demonized. Just as it happened in later times to the French Revolution, when society condemned maximalism and the exaltation of the feminine clothing of Marie Antoinette to move on to silhouettes closer to men's fashion, the same thing happens with the coquette aesthetic, that moves away from the power suit of the 1980s and the newest aesthetics of oversize, tomboy core and military core.

Lacey Tanner, a 21-year-old content creator from New York City, reflects, "When I envision 'coquette,' I immediately associate it with a blend of hyper-femininity, delicacy, and nostalgia.Coquette effortlessly merges simplicity with ornate touches, offering a sophisticated yet playfulstyle. It incorporates various trends, including soft pale grunge from 2014, elements of balletcore, the effortless allure of messy French girl aesthetics, and the romanticism of academia, among others."

Criticism
The coquette aesthetic has been critiqued for reproducing damaging gender roles for women and for its potential appeal for the male gaze. A cursory online search reveals a prevalent trend in the physical attributes associated with those who embrace hyper-feminine fashion: thinness and light skin. At the same time, the aesthetic primarily derives from "French culture and outdated notions of European femininity," and online images related to this aesthetic almost always portray thin, light-skinned women, which can exclude women who have less hegemonic characteristics. This fashion trend has been heavily scrutinized on social media platforms for its lack of inclusion of people of color and diverse body types, with some suggesting that it perpetuates disordered eating habits and unrealistic beauty standards. Notably, the prominent figures representing hyper-feminine fashion are predominantly skinny white women, exacerbating concerns about representation and inclusivity within the community.

Criticisms of the coquette aesthetic have also drawn upon similar stances that criticizers of the Lolita fashion subculture and the Lolicon media genre have made, which have stated that the coquette aesthetic as a product of its inspirations and style could result suggestive and problematic in regard to pedophiles.

Furthermore, critics contend that specific subcultures within hyper-feminine fashion subtly promote characteristics that can be interpreted as infantilizing and appealing to pedophiles. Traits such as innocence, petite stature, and an intentionally childlike appearance are often idealized within these circles. While some niche communities disavow any such associations, one known as 'nymphette' teeters dangerously close to the realm of pedophilia by embracing and sometimes sexualizing childlike fashion trends. Additionally, it romanticizes themes such as Vladimir Nabokov's "Lolita," further blurring the lines between innocent fashion and potentially harmful connotations.

The captivating allure of Nabokov's novel, coupled with his unparalleled mastery of language and its darkly playful nature, proves seductive to many. Regrettably, there exists a significant number of individuals who prioritize aesthetics over condemning the despicable actions of the novel's narrator, the cunning and sophisticated Humbert Humbert. Consequently, it's no surprise that when a cohort of Tumblr bloggers, predominantly comprised of girls younger than 16, begin to identify as "nymphets" and share content related to the novel—such as film stills, quotes, and fashion advice—concern arises. Observers fear these young girls may be succumbing to a patriarchal culture that has perverted the image of an abused girl into that of a provocative seductress. While this apprehension may hold true in certain instances, the reality is often much more intricate.

In both the novel and particularly in the film adaptation by Adrian Lyne, which is considered more faithful to the source material and is highly regarded among nymphet bloggers, it's the ordinariness of Lolita's girlhood that becomes imbued with profound meaning, beauty, and a chilling power. Humbert finds significance in the mundane aspects of her life, such as her abandoned bobbypins or the contents of her closet, which he obsessively examines in her absence. Even her seemingly innocent actions, like sucking on a jawbreaker or teasing him with plastic sunglasses, take on a sinister undertone in his eyes.

Despite Humbert's twisted perception, Lolita remains fundamentally a teenage girl—not a seductress or demon, but a child. She is depicted with striking clarity, from the flutter of her eyelashes to the paint on her toenails. Her voice occasionally pierces through the flowery prose, revealing moments of raw authenticity that elevate the novel's power. In these moments, both Humbert and the reader are reminded of the forbidden depths within Lolita, realms of innocence and allure that are forever beyond Humbert's reach.

Defenders of the aesthetic affirm that the use of bun, laces and pink-colored clothing should not assume a revictimization for women and these aesthetics are not responsible for misogynistic aggressions. Similarly, there are people who consider that these aesthetics can be understood from a disruptive non-heteronormative interpretation.

Cultural Inspiration
Coquette fashion traces its origins back to Marie Antoinette but has recently surged in popularity, particularly in 2023. Marisa Ledford, a stylist based in Los Angeles, remarks that while mainstream trends like boho chic, athleisure, swag, and hipster styles dominated, coquette fashion remained more of an alternative choice. She notes, "Charming girly bedrooms adorned with floral bedding, pink walls, antique furniture, and record players, along with Lana Del Rey GIFs and romantic poetry, became synonymous with coquette fashion on Tumblr blogs during the 2010s."

The narrative now delves into the dynamic streets of Japanese subcultures, where Japanese lolitas, drawing inspiration from Nabokov's narrative, embody the coquette lolita aesthetic. They adorn themselves in neutral tones, pinks, and delicately blend femininity with soft hues. Alongside them, gothic lolitas contribute to the aesthetic with their enigmatic presence, adding atouch of mystery to the scene.

In the spotlight of this trend's rise over the past decade stands Lana Del Rey, a contemporary muse of the coquette aesthetic. Through her album promotions, she brought this trend to the forefront, captivating audiences with a fusion of innocence and vintage allure. Drawing occasional inspiration from Nabokov's literary works, Lana's lyrics added poetic depth to the connection. Furthermore, her emulation of Priscilla Presley's iconic style from the late 60s further solidified her role as a beacon of the coquette aesthetic.