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The Goûter Hut (Refuge du Goûter) is a high mountain hut in the Mont Blanc massif of the Alps. It is located at a height of 3,835 m on the Arete du Goûter in the municipality of Saint-Gervais-les-Bains in France. It overlooks the Glacier de Bionnassay, and is the highest wardened mountain hut in France. It is an important staging post for mountaineers attempting to climb to the summit of Mont Blanc via the very popular Goûter Route. The hut has been rebuilt and expanded a number of times over the last 150 years as its popularity as a mountaineering base has increased. There have been numerous deaths and injuries sustained by climbers on the access route to the hut.

History
Although Mont Blanc was first climbed in 1786 (via the Grand Mulets route), the ascent via the Aiguille du Goûter route eventually became the normal route for climbers wanting to reach the summit. The ascent by this route was first made in 18 July 1861 by Leslie Stephen and Francis Fox Tuckett, with guides Melchior Anderegg, Johann Josef and Peter Perren Bennen.

Before that, however, a very crude stone shelter had been constructed for Dr. Charles Loiseau on the Aiguille du Goûter at 3,400m for him to spend the night on 30th July 1854, prior to an ascent attempt. He was unsuccessful in this, having been thwarted by bad weather.

1858 / 1906 huts
The first proper mountain refuge on the Aiguille du Goûter was built in 1858, capable of accommodating three or four people. This small hut was renovated in 1882, and was subsequently replaced by a completely new shelter in 1906. This hut opened on 4th September of that year and was capable of accommodating 10 people. It was managed by the St. Gervais Section of the French Alpine Club.

1936 Orset hut
In 1936, an additional privately-owned hut was constructed by George Orset at a height of 3817 m on the Aiguille du Goûter, close to the previous 1906 structure. It could now offer 30 beds to climbers, and in 1942 was purchased by the French Alpine Club (FFCAM). Up to this point, all materials to construct these high altitude mountain huts had been manually portered in. However, with the advent of the helicopter, the next stage of the Goûter Hut's development would be assisted by air power.

1962 Goûter hut
In 1960, work started to enlarge the Goûter Hut again, increasing its capacity to 76 people. It would be a prefabricated structure, lined with wood. Construction work lasted three seasons, and the new refuge was finally opened in September 1962 by Maurice Herzog, High Commissioner for Youth and Sports.

1991 Goûter hut annex
From 1962 to 1990, the Goûter Hut could still only officially accommodate 76 climbers. It had a warden and hotel service in summer, and was locked in winter. But by 1989 work had begun to construct an extension or annex on the site of the old 1906 hut, bringing the total capacity up to 120 climbers The annex opened in 1991.

For many years the Goûter Hut's increasing popularity as the easiest staging post for an ascent of Mont Blanc led to it gaining "widespread notoriety" for being overcrowded, oppressive, outdated, extremely cold at night, unhygienic and only having two external toilets. Like many alpine refuges, human waste voided directly down the mountainside. It was also booked up many days in advance, and one source even stated that "sleep is best accomplished in an upright position". Another source described it as "...a pock-marked metal shed sitting on shifting ice."

By 2004 it was realised that further renovation of the old 1960s building and its 1990s annex was unfeasible, so the decision was made to construct an entirely new refuge a little higher up along the Aiguille du Goûter, and for it to be as eco-friendly as possible.

2013 new Goûter hut
Between 2010 and 2013, a completely new, replacement building was constructed some distance from the previous Goûter Hut and its annex.

Situated slightly higher up along the ridge of the Aiguille du Goûter, and at an altitude of 3,835 metres, the new Goûter Hut has a modern, ovoid appearance, and is a multi-faceted structure, coated in reflective stainless steel and incorporates a range of features designed to reduce its impact on the environment. It has been described as "space-age eco-architecture, a uniquely beautiful and intelligent building, inside and out".

Construction
Taking five years to plan, plus a further three seasons to build, it was designed by Hervé Dessimoz and Thomas Buchi of Group-h, and cost 7 million euros. Although authorisation had been given by the mayor of Saint-Gervais-les-Bains for the design to be capable of accommodating 140 people, for reasons of cost the French Alpine Club reduced this to 120 - thus making no change in overall capacity over the previous hut and its annex.

(A condition was initially imposed that the older Goûter Hut must be demolished if a new one were to be constructed. NEEDS REF

Originally scheduled to open in August 2012, it finally opened to climbers in June 2013, following delays over safety concerns, including a fire and various technical problems. There had also been an argument between France's sports minister, Valérie Fourneyron, and the mayor of Saint-Gervais-Les-Bains who had insisted that everyone attending the opening of the new refuge must arrive on foot by the normal mountaineering means, and reportedly blocked the use of helicopters to transfer the dignitaries. In September 2014 the Goûter Hut was officially inaugurated by Ségolène Royal, Minister of Ecology, albeit in a ceremony held away from the mountain, in the offices of l'Espace Mont-Blanc within the commune of Saint-Gervais.

The new Goûter refuge has an floor area totalling 720 sqm, is 12 m high, and is built on four levels:


 * Level 0: entrance, locker rooms, storage room and machinery;
 * Level 1: living spaces, including dining room and kitchen;
 * Level 2: sleeping areas, guardian's quarters and infirmary;
 * Level 3: further dormitories.

The new refuge is designed to cope with wind speeds of up to 260 kilometers per hour, and its foundations are secured to the ridge with 69 pilings, each driven around 12 metres into the rock. Sitting on this foundation, the main wooden structure has a volume of 400 m3 and is constructed from spruce and fir. To reduce its environmental impact, these timbers were sourced mostly from the forests around St Gervais. This is clad in stainless steel with a low-reflectivity satin finish, and all windows are triple-glazed and argon-filled. Energy reduction is achieved by 50 sqm of thermal solar panels which melt snow and provide hot water, whilst a further 95 sqm of solar panels on the walls and roof provide electricity. A back-up biomass generation system can also provide heat and electricity. A two-way ventilation system, combined with heavily-insulated walls, ensures that most heat is generated by the activities of the occupants themselves. A modern sanitation system is designed only to release uncontaminated water into the environment, and uses treatment technology similar to that deployed in modern submarines. The only non-renewable energy sources used is gas which is used in the kitchens.

Despite its green aspirations, initial technical difficulties and higher than expected demand on its facilities following its 2013 opening led to non-renewable resources being used to keep it open. These included additional helicopter flights to transport extra fresh water and to empty cluttered lavatories, as well as bring up fuel oil to generate electricity.

Overcrowding
By 2014, because of the popularity of the Goûter route as one of the two easiest means of ascent to Mont Blanc, demand for accommodation at the Goûter Hut frequently exceeded capacity. As a result, mandatory reservation up to a year in advance was introduced, which must then be confirmed three days prior to the scheduled stay. REF Despite this, many mountaineers continued to arrive without any reservation, posing a challenge both for themselves and the refuge, as turning them away could put their lives at risk as well as impact on the safety of all those who had pre-booked. Solutions to the problem included calls by the mayor of Saint Gervais for police checks on those ascending from the Tete Rousse Hut, as well as re-opening the older 1990s Goûter Hut buildings for emergency use.

The demolition of the old Goûter Hut and annex had originally been integral to the planning and construction of the new Goûter Hut. However, in 2015, following campaigning by the mayor of Saint Gervais, it was announced that the 1991 annex to the old hut would not be dismantled, but would instead be retained as an emergency shelter and winter refuge. However, in February 2018, conditions were set by the then Minister for Ecology, Nicolas Hulot, requiring the old annex to be dismantled and for the main 1960s hut to be renovated instead, albeit only permitting an additional twenty places. This would take the maximum capacity of the combined Gouter hut buildings to 140.


 * Drug use research paper
 * Le Monde article on urine sampling

Access
The Goûter hut can be reached in approximately five hours of ascent from the Gare du Nid d'Aigle at Saint-Gervais-les-Bains. At 2372 m metres, this is the terminus of the Mont Blanc Tramway, and its construction in 1912 resulted in the 'Goûter Route' eventually becoming, and still remaining, the most popular means of ascent of Mont Blanc. Climbers next have to ascend to, and then cross, the Tête Rousse Glacier (3100 m), passing the Tête Rousse Hut en route (2 hours from Nid d'Aigle). From there, climbers must traverse the extremely dangerous 'Grand Couloir' (3270 m) before ascending to the ridge of the Aiguille du Goûter to reach the hut.

Competence in alpine mountaineering is essential just to reach the Goûter Hut and, in July 2017, there had been so many incidents of ill-equipped people getting into difficulties on the mountain that a municipal decree was put in place, requiring a minimum of climbing equipment to be carried by anyone ascending via the Goûter Route At busy times times during 2018, high mountain police were deployed to dissuade climbers with no prior reservation for the Goûter Hut from attempting an ascent. From 2019 onwards, a quota system will be in operation, limiting the number of climbers allowed to attempt to climb Mont Blanc via the Gouter Route to a maximum of 214 per day.

Dangers
Crossing the 'Grand Couloir' below the Aiguille du Goûter is an essential yet very risky stage in ascending to the Goûter Hut, or in descent from the summit of Mont Blanc. Nowadays, the Grand Couloir is exposed to severe stonefall in summer, especially between 10am and 4pm, and has cables in place to assist passage. It has been nicknamed 'Death Gully'.

The risk to climbers has increased in frequency and intensity in recent decades as a result of climate change degrading the alpine permafrosts which previously bound the loose rocks and boulders together. Between 1990 and 2017 there were 102 deaths and 230 injuries recorded to climbers in the Grand Couloir. A detailed study by the Petzl Foundation attempted to assess the precise risk to mountaineers and guides, and to find ways of reducing this severe danger. Possible solutions included constructing a tunnel beneath the Grand Couloir, or suspending an aerial walkway above it.

Prolonged rockfall during a hot summer in 2015 forced not only the closure of this access route, but also of the Goûter hut itself.

Routes

 * 'Goûter Route' - The Goûter Hut is primarily used as an overnight stop prior to the very popular ascent of Mont Blanc. (2.5-3 hours from the hut). Also known as the 'Route Royale', it follows the Arete du Goûter, over the Dome du Goûter and Bosses Ridge to the summit of Mint Blanc at 4804 metres.


 * Traverse of Aiguille de Bionnassay (height) (x) hrs to summit, (y) hrs to the Durier Hut.

In winter, an ascent or descent of Mont Blanc on skis is generally made via the Grands Mulets.


 * Winter room access.

Other stuff
distances from key points.

Duplicate reference:

Refs to consider adding

 * CampToCamp.org
 * refuges.info


 * old and new sites
 * poss reversal of decision to demolish the old Goûter hut

Fire in the new Refuge du Goûter

DYK
...that climbers wanting to stay in the Goûter mountain hut near Mont Blanc have to cross "Death Gully" - so dangerous that 74 people died there over a 21 year period.

...that a new mountain hut near Mont Blanc in France was designed to withstand wind speeds of 300km/h and cost 7.5million euros.