User:Oromiya98/sandbox

Africa
Braids have a very rich history in Africa. Being the most elevated part of the body, the hair is believed to be the connection to Gods and spirits. Braiding provides a bond between elders and youngers, passing down tradition through generations. Hairdressers in a community are highly respected, considering the sharing of culture. Certain styles can also take a long time, which requires a great deal of patience. This was a form of grooming oneself - keeping the hair protected, hygienic and neat. Braiding details range from tribe to tribe. All over the continent you can find different styles and techniques native to each ethnic group. For example, the Miango women decorate their braids with scarves and leaves.

Slavery
During the Trans-Atlantic slave trade many slaves were forced to get their hair shaven off for “sanitary” purposes. This process physically stripped them of their identity removing connections to their homelands. Slave owners forced African American women to assimilate their natural hair to please their European standard of beauty.

Eventually during slavery in the United States, braids became more functional. Women were forced to wear two main hairstyles – headrags and cornrows. African Americans were required to keep their hair neat and tidy – upon their master’s request. Afro-textured hair was seen as unkempt, nappy and wooly. These characteristics represent the negative perception of kinky hair held until to this day. Enslaved Africans would use their cornrows to create maps that would send messages to other slaves. It was a tool of resistance giving them a way to escape plantations.

Cornrows were typically done on Sunday by elder African American women. There were many elaborate styles including complex curve and spirals to linear designs. Typically, the patterns would reflect African tradition and culture brought over to the West. As years passed, braiding patterns began getting more intricate as a method of defiance and rebellion. The flamboyant braids showcased the distaste for the strict hair styling etiquette required of the slave owners.

After the Civil War, there was a shift towards straightening hair. Hair care entrepreneur Madam C.J. Walker popularized the hot comb becoming the first black billionaire. She was the first to find a method that straightens the hair without irreducible damage – compared to perms and relaxers. Elder women began doing straight hairstyles, putting cornrows on the back burner. However, young African American females would still wear their hair in cornrow braids – a style that would last all week. They would sport beads and bobbles at the ends of the braids. Typically, the only opportunity for young girls to straighten their hair was on Sundays for church or special occasions.

Civil Rights
In the 60’s and 70’s natural hair was popular due to the Black Power Movement. This was a political and social movement that believed in racial pride and equality for people of black and African descent. In efforts of showing cultural pride and rejecting European hegemonic beauty, cornrows were extremely popular. Afros were also very common. Black celebrities such as Nina Simone and Stevie Wonder embraced this natural hair movement. In fact, Cicely Tyson was the first black women to sport cornrows on national television in 1962. This showcased the unapologetic climate of the time. It gave a sense of identity to the African American community, resulting in a wave of complete naturalness all around. Cornrows and Afros felt like a gateway to their ancestral ties in Africa, despite being removed from it.

In the 1990s and 2000s cornrows were extremely popular due to celebrities like Allen Iverson, D’Angelo, Alicia Keys, Beyoncé, Bow Wow and Ludacris. Hip hop became the standard of pop culture and the epitome of cool.

Cornrows help maintain the health of natural hair. According to Ebony (magazine) “Within the Black community, they tend to be worn more so for convenience, as well as a protective style when transitioning from relaxed to natural hair or growing the hair out until the desired length is achieved. They can also serve as a foundation for sew-ins, but they had another purpose back when our ancestors were rocking them.” They help upkeep the hair for long periods without frequent salon visits.

Cultural Appropriation
Cultural appropriation is often brought up regarding black hairstyles. In 1979 the movie 10 (movie) released. Bo Derek sported the famous cornrow braids, often being credited as the creator of them. The style mirrors Fulani braids which originated in West Africa by the Fulani ethnic group – dating way before the film was created.

Kim Kardashian received backlash in upon calling her cornrow braids “Boxer braids” after UFC fighters who wear them.

Styles worn centuries before by black women are not deemed beautiful until worn by white women. Humans are free to wear whatever style they please – however, the issue at hand is when black women get erased from the narrative. Cornrows are shunned from the workplace and are considered unprofessional when worn by black women. Hair can keep them out of jobs and limit their opportunities. When worn by other races its “edgy” and “trendy.” This showcases a double standard in play.

In 2015, the then 15-year old actress Amandla Stenberg made a viral video entitled “Don’t Cashcrop On My Cornrows". In the video Stenberg addressed the history of cornrow braids and its origin. She says, “The line between cultural appropriation and cultural exchange is always going to be blurred, but here’s the thing: Appropriation occurs when a style leads to racist generalization or stereotypes where it originated but is deemed as high fashion, cool or funny when the privileged take it for themselves.”

Styles
Cornrows gives one the opportunity to be creative and make the scalp a canvas. The most popular is the overhand technique – this results in the braid looking as if it is sitting on top of the scalp. On the other hand, there is the underhand technique – this results in the braid looking as if it is inverted and not as visible. People have done everything from circles, triangles, spirals, flowers, criss-cross designs etc, the options are endless.