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African American Fashion Designers

Jeffrey Banks (1955 - )
Jeffrey Banks, a native of Washington, D.C., worked in the top ranks of Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein before establishing his own namesake firm in 1978 at the age of 25. He won several awards such as the Coty Awards, the Oscars of the fashion industry. Banks brought a masculine element of glamour from the '20s and '30s of Hollywood to his contemporary clothing. His name graced suiting, neckwear, and accessories, but his biggest moneymaker was the furs he designed for men and boys..

Stephen Burrows (1943 - )
Stephen Burrows (designer) began designing in 1966 after graduating from Fashion Institute of Technology. Burrows soared in his career to become one of the first African-American fashion designers to achieve international acclaim. He is most noted for his use of bold colors and sexy dresses with the famous “lettuce edging” finish which were constructed in knit fabrics. Burrows won numerous fashion awards including the Coty American Fashion Critics special award, 1974; the Winnie, 1977; Council of American Fashion Critics award, 1975; and Knitted Textile Association Crystal Ball award, 1975.

Francis Criss
Francis Criss was a native of Richmond, Virginia who became very popular as a talented seamstress and designer. She moved to New York City in 1915 and increased her popularity with creations. Her designs were worn by Broadway stars and celebrities including actress Gloria Swanson. Criss was very flamboyant with a free spirited personality. She had a home in New York that was used to entertain affluent African-Americans.

Elizabeth Keckley (1818 - 1907)


Elizabeth Keckley, a former slave in Virginia, began her own dressmaking business in 1860 in Washington, D.C. Keckley bought her freedom from slavery from her abusive slave masters, the Burwell family. She used her talent as a dressmaker and designer to start her own business to successful support herself and her son. Keckley attracted affluent clients in Washington D.C. such as Mary Anna Custis (wife of Robert E. Lee), Varina Davis (wife of Jefferson Davis), and the First Lady, Mary Todd Lincoln (wife of President Abraham Lincoln). Mary Todd was Keckley’s most famous client and they both became very good friends. Elizabeth Keckley is recognized as an African-American woman who made great strides from being a slave to becoming a prominent dressmaker and designer with a successful business.

Ann Lowe (1898 - 1981)
Ann Lowe, a native of Clayton, Alabama, was a talented African American fashion designer most noted for designing the wedding gown for Jacqueline Bouvier Kennedy. At the age of 14, she married, moved to New York and enrolled in a fashion school there. After graduating, she moved to Tampa, Florida and opened a small boutique. Lowe returned to New York in 1928 and worked in various boutiques including Chez Sonia where she designed the dress Olivia Havilland wore to the Oscars in 1946. Lowe didn’t receive credit for the dress. Lowe continued to attract affluent New Yorkers as clients. She continued her career in working at Saks Fifth Avenue and designed through 1960 for Madeline Couture. Despite health problems with glaucoma and losing an eye, Lowe opened her boutique Ann Lowe Originals on Madison Avenue.

Tracy Reese (1964 - )
Reese, a native of Detroit, is an African American fashion designer with a multi-million dollar fashion business. Reese was encouraged by her mother to have an arts education. She and her mother loved to sew together. When Reese was in the 11th grade, she received a scholarship to attend Parsons School of Design in New York for the summer. Her experience at Parsons convinced her that she wanted to be a part of the fashion industry. Reese returned to Parsons after graduating high school and was one of three African American students to graduate from Parsons. Reese has been successful with her collections that are sold worldwide. Reese is a current board member of the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA).

Russell Simmons (1957 - )
Russell Simmons began his clothing line, Phat Farm in 1992. He was part of the fashion pioneers who brought urban fashion forward. With the era of rapper brands on the rise, Phat Farm stood out and paved the way for others to follow. Simmons modeled his fashion line after preppy labels like Ralph Lauren which created a mass appeal that was not restricted to only to African Americans. Simmons cultivated street smarts and preppy style to create brands such as the Stussy label. Simmons was success in creating a cross-cultural brand that outlasted many street wear labels and to become one of the first celebrity owned labels.

Willi Smith (1948 - 1987)
Willi Smith designed comfortable and inexpensive sportswear for men and women all over America under his label, Willi Wear. Born in Philadelphia, Smith moved to New York City' to attend Parsons School of Designs on two scholarships. He eventually dropped out to work full-time in the fashion. Smith developed street smart, inexpensive clothing which helped him to become known as a pioneer of Street Couture, a name he created himself. His collections had plenty of colors and prints that he mixed and matched in ways never done before. Smith won the Coty American Fashion Critics' Award for Women's Fashion in 1983. He was the youngest recipient of the award at the time. His latest collection, WilliWear, was a huge success. His collections were sold in over 500 stores in the U.S., Britain and France. Smith also worked on outfitting film projects such as Spike Lee's film, School Daze.

Zelda Wynn Valdes (1905 - 2001)
Zelda Wynn Valdes was a fashion legend who was the first black designer to open her own shop on Broadway in New York in 1948. She began to develop her skills by studying through her grandmother and working for her uncle’s tailoring business. She made clothes for her dolls and eventually made her grandmother a dress. Her grandmother was so impressed, despite doubting Valdes could construct an outfit to fit her tall frame, that she was buried in the same dress. Valdes’ first job was at a fancy boutique where she had to try very hard to prove she was capable. Over time her good works were recognized and wanted by those who doubted her as a young black woman. Valdes moved to New York and opened her boutique, Chez Zelda, on Broadway and 158th Street. She then moved the store to midtown Manhattan on West 57th Street. Valdes attracted many celebrities such as Dorothy Dandridge, Joyce Bryant, Ella Fitzgerald and Mae West. In 1949, Valdes became president of the New York Chapter of NAFAD, the National Association of Fashion and Accessory Designers. In the 1950's, Valdes was commissioned by Hugh Hefner to design the first Playboy Bunny outfit. In 1970, at the age of 65, Valdes was hired by Arthur Mitchell to design outfits for his year old dance company, the Dance Theatre of Harlem. She remained with the Dance Theatre of Harlem for thirty years and was known as their matriarch until her passing in 2001 at the age of 96.