User:Paul Soleillet/Douze ans de séjour dans la Haute-Éthiopie



Douze ans de séjour dans la Haute-Éthiopie ("Twelve Years in Upper Ethiopia") d’Arnaud-d'Abbadie is the account of the stay of Arnauld and Antoine d'Abbadie in Abyssinia between 1837 and 1849 The first volume of the book was published in 1868. The other three volumes were published more than a century later: Volume II in 1981; Volume III in 1983 and Volume IV in 1999.

The four volumes are a mine of ethnographic, historical, cultural and military adventure information. The story is also of exceptional literary quality, comparable to Lawrence of Arabia "The Seven Pillars of Wisdom".

Introduction
Throughout his stay, Arnauld kept a diary of his activities and impressions in notebooks that he kept preciously. From 1863, when he knew that he would never return to Abyssinia, he began writing his memoirs. The first volume was self-published in 1868. This first volume covers the period December 25, 1837 - May 12, 1841. The other volumes were not published during Arnauld d'Abbadie's lifetime, probably related to the deep tear caused by his brother Antoine in 1864.

Three fragments of volume 2 were published in 1897 in the Jesuit journal Études. The manuscripts and notes for the sequel (about 6,500 pages of memoirs and 3,000 pages of texts and drafts) remained in his family after Arnauld's death in 1893. It was his direct heir who sold them to a Mexican Ethiopian, Father Alberto Rècon Gallardo in 1942. The latter kept them in a safe place for twenty years, then in 1962, transferred them to Mexico with the intention of publishing them. But he fell seriously ill and bequeathed them to the Vatican Apostolic Library in 1965.

A reedition of the first volume and the publication of the other three volumes, based on the manuscript sheets kept in the Department of Manuscripts of the Vatican Apostolic Library, were published between 1980 and 1999.

In these volumes of memories, one can read descriptions of daily life, military life, accounts of battles and military strategy, portraits of many Ethiopians, etc. However, for the historian, there are serious shortcomings. Arnauld always gives very precise descriptions, but he is often vague about dates, as if he considered them of little importance.

The context of the trip
The early nineteenth century marked the rise of exploration of Africa by European countries in search of colonial empires. At first, we limit ourselves to the recognition of the great rivers. The geography, geodesy, geology and ethnography of vast African regions remain totally unknown, so the triangle: Harar-Mogadishu-Cape Guardafui of the Horn of Africa is white on maps of 1840.

The territory to explore is huge. The brothers of Abbadie are limited to Abyssinia, whose four provinces represent more than 300,000 km2. Penetration conditions are extremely difficult:


 * ethnic quarrels are permanent; Loyal allies one day can become bitter enemies the next. Historians call it the Era of Princes or the Zemene Mesafint;
 * religious wars are commonplace (Catholic, Protestant, Muslim, Copt, animist, Jewish);
 * the linguistic barriers are numerous (the Ethiopian alphabet has 267 characters with about thirty languages and dialects);
 * Endemic diseases are numerous: typhus, leprosy, ophthalmia;
 * .suspicion of colonial powers hinders research: English, Italians, Germans and Turks suspect Abbadie's brothers of being spies.

Antoine and Arnauld d'Abbadie did not go to Ethiopia as mere "tourists". They have very specific objectives:


 * for Arnauld, it is the search for the source of the Nile;
 * for Antoine, it is first and foremost with a scientific purpose. He wants to map the country, make geodetic and astronomical measurements. He invented new techniques and the maps he produced were surpassed only by the arrival of aerial and satellite photography;
 * both brothers are devout Catholics from a family of lay abbots. Antoine says it himself, without the events of 1793, he would sign:" Antoine d’Abbadie, abbé lai d’Arrast en Soule " . We can see in them scientific crusaders. They also go to the Ethiopian mountains to help the declining Christian religion, threatened by a conquering Islam ;
 * to travel to this hostile country, it is necessary to know its habits and customs. Before leaving the France, they have inquired as best they can and once there, their ethnological, linguistic, political observations are of the utmost importance;
 * for Arnauld, it is a project that takes shape as it is implanted in political life. He wants to reconstitute the former Christian empire of Ethiopia at the expense of Muslim occupation. In addition, he wanted to link this future state to the "protection" of the France and thus thwart British colonization in East Africa.

1837-1839
Antoine d'Abbadie left Marseille on October 1, 1837 with Domingo a Basque servant, and arrived in Egypt around October 16, 1837. He joins his brother who is already in Cairo. The two brothers stayed about two months in Cairo where they became friends with Giuseppe Sapeto, a Lazarist father and a certain Mr. Richards, an English explorer in search of adventure. In December 1837, the group began its journey south. On December 25, in Kenèh on the banks of the Nile, they drank the water of the river while vowing to drink one day the water from its source. Then they crossed the Red Sea and landed at Massawa on February 12, 1838.

As soon as they arrived, the public rumour announced that the Dedjadj Oubié, governor of Tigray, the first region they had to cross, had massacred a Protestant mission and forbidden its territory to any European, on pain of death.

Mr. Richards realizes the difficulties they face and returns to Cairo. Arnauld and Father Sapeto go to Adwa to speak directly with Dedjadj Oubié. Antoine stays in Massaoua with their luggage

The rumor is false, the Protestant mission was not massacred. She was imprisoned and expelled from Tigray because the missionaries do not sufficiently respect the rites of the Ethiopian church and the cult of the Virgin. Arnauld used his diplomatic talent with the Dedjadj Oubié and obtained that Father Sapeto could remain in Adwa safe and sound and that he and Antoine could cross Tigray without hindrance.

Arnauld picked up his brother and the two crossed the Tekezé and arrived in Gondar on May 28, 1838. As soon as he arrived, Antoine realized that his geodesy instruments were not adapted to the terrain for precision work. He must return to France to equip himself with adequate equipment. At the same time he also carried out some diplomatic missions. He embarked at Massawa in July 1838 and returned twenty months later in 1840.

In Gondar, Atse Lik Atskoum, a high scholarly dignitary, took Arnauld under his protection and introduced him:


 * to the "emperor" Sohala Dingui, who no longer has any power, but for convenience must be greeted with respect; in Ras Ali, the strongman of the region whose capital is Debre Tabor, east of Lake Tana. Ali is the same age as Arnauld and has the same sporting passions; they become friends. Ali's mother, Waïzo Manann (Menen Liben Amade), former regent of Ali, is a very powerful woman and she too accepts Arnauld; to Dejadj Guocho, prince of Gojjam and governor of Damote, Metchi and Ybabi, who became his closest friend in Abyssinia.

Through common sense advice and his honourable attitude, Arnauld acquired the reputation of being a doctor, a soothsayer and a man of integrity. Among the important characters who show him their friendship, it is necessary to recall:


 * Sahle Selassie, prince of Shewa, the richest province of Abyssinia, who promised him his help to travel to the Innarya, a region where Abbadie's brothers thought they would find the source of the White Nile; Dedjadj Guocho, Prince of Gondar, who is under the suzerainty of Ras Ali. Dedjadj Guocho sends one of his sons, Lidj Dori to Gondar to be treated by Arnauld, with the invitation to come to Gojjam. It is necessary to pass through the Gojjam to enter the Innarya, so Arnauld accepts the invitation and travels south, to Dambatch, with Lidj Dori and his troops. It is during this trip that Arnauld witnesses his first battle (a warlord tries to kidnap Lidj Dori, to better negotiate an agreement with Dedjadj Guocho) and, more importantly, Arnauld visits the "Eye of Abay", source of the Blue Nile.

Arrived at the court of the Dedjadj Guoscho, Arnauld, thanks to his bravery and his military sense, is accepted as an adopted son by the Dedjadj Guoscho and his wife the Waïzoro Sahaloa. He participated in a campaign against the Gallas and exchanged his geographer's clothes for those of an Ethiopian soldier.

On the death of Dejadj Conefo, governor of Dembiya, subservient to Ras Ali, a war of succession broke out. Ras Ali befriended Dedjadj Guocho and his son Birro against the sons of Dejadj Conefo. Arnauld participated in the Battle of Konzoula on 4 October 1839 during which Conefo's sons were taken prisoner. He becomes "Ras Mikaël".

After the battle Arnauld remained in the court of Guocho to perfect himself in Ethiopian language and customs.

Antoine must have returned in February 1840. In, Arnauld left the court of Guocho to wait for his brother in Massawa. Crossing Tigray is not easy; the Dedjadj Oubié is "difficult", but Arnauld manages to cross it.

1840-1842
Antoine d'Abbadie arrived with his new geodesy instruments in Massawa in February 1840. The two brothers left for Adwa on February 12. The objective is to return to Gondar where Antony will make his geodetic surveys for several months, while Arnauld will go to Godjam, at the court of Dedjadj Guocho. Then, together, they will pass through the land of Galla to reach the kingdom of Inarya (today Ennarea) where they think they will find the source of the White Nile. They must first cross Tigray. Its governor, Dedjadj Oubié, is very aggressive towards them. During their courtesy visit, Arnauld annoys Oubié, who, on a whim and under the influence of his consumption of mead, threatens to cut off his tongue, a hand and a foot. Arnauld has a choice between using his weapon, which would have resulted in death for him and Antoine, or accepting the punishment to save his brother's life. His courage impressed and Oubié revised his decision. He ordered that Arnauld and Antony leave his territory immediately and never return.

In Adwa, the brothers separate; Arnauld, defying the ban of the Dedjadj Oubié, remains in Adwa with his horse (gift of the Dedjadj Guocho and exceptional breed) which is suffering; Antoine leaves for Massawa with luggage and servants.

Antoine travels in the Massawa region, using his new instruments to map it for several months. During a hunting accident, a cartridge shrapnel injures one eye. He is forced to leave for Aden where he hopes to find a doctor.

Arnauld travels to the Digsa where he befriends the Bahar Negach. During this period, Arnauld increased his reputation, as he managed to recover several Christian women sold as slaves. As soon as Arnauld receives news of his brother's accident, he leaves for Aden. Unable to keep his horse and according to his brother's wishes, he sent it, with his Basque servant Jean, to the Prince of Joineville, who had helped Antoine to obtain his instruments of geodesy.

The trip to Aden was complicated, as the area was under English rule and the administrator, Captain Haines, regarded Arnauld and Antony as spies for the France. When Arnauld arrived in Aden, Antony, who had already left for Cairo for treatment, had left a message: they could try to reach the kingdom of Innarya from the south, via Berbera (Somalia), the Harar region and the Shewa, or Prince Sahle Selassie would protect them.

Once the two brothers arrived in Berbera the local potentates, under the influence of the English, blocked them. Antoine and Arnauld could not travel in the interior of the country. During their enforced stay, they deepened their knowledge of languages, habits and customs; Antoine collects manuscripts and prepares a dictionary.

On January 15, 1841, they left Berbara, made too inhospitable by the actions of Captain Haines, to go to the port of Tadjoura (Djibouti). Their plan is still to reach the kingdom of Inarya from the south.

After three months of attempts at negotiations, under pressure from Captain Haines, they abandoned the project and on May 12, 1841 they left Djibouti for Yemen. The brothers are badly received in Yemen, because they are Christians. Antoine returned to Massawa. Arnauld went on a mission to Jeddah and was reunited with Antoine in August 1841.They are still trying to cross Tigray. Arnauld leaves alone for Adwa, stopping at Digsa and against all advice, he visits the Dedjadj Oubié. The political situation has changed. Now, Oubié is waging war against Ras Ali and is allied with Dedjadj Guocho, whose friendship with Arnauld has never wavered. Arnauld is received with great pomp by Dedjadj Oubié.

1842-1844
Thanks to the change of alliance of the Dejadj Oubié, Arnauld can cross Tigray to go to Godjam and Antoine can stay in Tigray and travel freely. He arrived in Adwa on January 2, 1842 and spent several months making geodetic measurements. Then, during a battle, the Dedjadj Oubié is taken prisoner and the territory is in tumult. Antoine was forced to find refuge for several weeks in a church in Adwa, then he escaped and went to Gondar. In Gondar Antoine studied languages, collected manuscripts and made geodesic triangulations (850 absolute repairs for cartography). Towards the end of September he visited Lake Tana, the valley of Quarata and in January-February the churches of Lalibela. Antoine left Gondar in February 1843 and left for the Gojjam.

Meanwhile, Arnauld, after leaving the Dedjadj Oubié, went to Gondar where he learned of the victory of Ras Ali over the Dedjadj Guocho and his son Birro at the battle of Dabra Tabor on February 13, 1842. He renewed his contacts with Lik Atskou; the Waïzoro Mannan and the Abuna.

In August 1842 Arnauld left Gondar to find the Dejadj Guocho and his wife Waïzoro Sahalou near Dorokoa. He also renewed his relations with Birro, Guocho's illegitimate son, who was encamped with his army in the vicinity. Arnauld is totally involved in military life with Guocho and Birro.

In February 1843 the armies of Guocho and Birro met to fight Ras Ali. Antoine arrives on February 27. He is charged by the Abuna de Axum with a mediation project between Ras Ali and Dedjadj Guocho in order to avoid a confrontation. Despite Arnauld's intercession the mission failed.

Antoine wants to go back with Arnauld to the kingdom of Ennaréa in Gallas in search of the source of the White Nile. Given the military situation, Arnauld decided that he should stay with Dedjadj Guocho. He believed that Guocho's influence on the Gallas tribes could protect his brother in this dangerous expedition. So Antoine leaves alone, on May 19, for Mota to continue his research.

The campaign against Ras Ali begins. The two armies crossed the Abbaïe and fought in the Wollo until the end of June 1843. Arnauld is with Birro. The latter appreciates his qualities and forces him to stay by his side. He also wants to separate Arnauld and Guocho, as he intends to take his father's place as Gojjam's strongman.

Arnauld and other Guoscho followers (Ymer Sahalou in particular) rushed to leave the Birro camp in October 1943 and to go to the town of Mota and then to join the Guocho camp.

At the beginning of 1844 he finally received news of his brother: Antoine was captive in the country Galla (Oromia), with Abba Bagibo, prince of Ennaréa.

Antoine, who left with a caravan in May 1843, arrived in Saka, in the kingdom of Limmu-Ennaréa, on July 26. He was received in audience by King Abba Bogibo. The latter suspects Antoine, the first white man he has seen, of supernatural knowledge. He holds him to his court. The king of Kaffa wants to see the white man and asks Abba Bogibo to send him. In return, he accepts an alliance that Bogibo had long desired. Antony is sent by Abba Bogibo as a "wedding brother" to arrange the marriage of a daughter of the king to Abba Bogibo. He is the first European to visit Kaffa. He stayed 14 days in Bonga, then returned to Abba Bogibo on December 19, 1843. He fears that he will never be able to return to Gojjam.

To get his brother back, Arnauld threatens to stop, with his army, all caravans that want to enter Abba Bogibo's country if his brother is not released. On February 25, 1844 Antoine left Ennaréa with a caravan and returned to Godjam on April 10, 1844. He visited the source of the Abaïe and made geodetic measurements, then went to Baguina, to the Agaw. He returned to Gondar on 30 July 1844.

Meanwhile, Dedjadj Guocho was taken prisoner by Dejadj Syoum. At this point, Birro plots against his father. Vassals loyal to Guoscho were removed from positions of responsibility. Birro insisted on keeping Arnauld with him, promising him honors and territories if he accepted his suzerainty. Birro does not want to let Arnauld go to Ras Ali to negotiate his father's release because he is afraid that Arnauld will succeed!

Arnauld remained loyal to his friend Guocho and, dodging Birro's troops, arrived at Dabra Tabor around May 15, 1844. He wants to negotiate Guacho's release with Ras Ali. Ras Ali receives the "Ras Mikael" with all honors and Arnauld convinces him that the best political solution is to free Guoscho. The problem is that Guoscho is run by Ali's mother, Waizoro Mennan, who has a strained relationship with her son. So Arnauld left for Gondar to negotiate directly with the Waïzoro Mennan. Arnauld is helped by Atse Yohannès (second husband of the Waïzoro)

There is a game of cat and mouse between Arnauld and the Waïzoro Mannen. The Waizoro's grievance against Guocho is simply that he is Birro's father. The quarrel between Ali and Birro is irreconcilable and Birro's wife, Oubdar, is the Waizoro's favorite daughter. She hates her gender and wants her daughter back, so she offers to exchange her for Guoscho's release. Birro, who secretly did not want his father's release, derailed the negotiations in April 1844.

Thanks to the talents of Arnauld, the interventions of Lik Atskou and Ali the second attempt at negotiation is a success: Guocho is brought to Gondar, the Waïzoro forgives him and he is released. Guocho and Arnauld leave for Dabra Tabor to seal the reconciliation with Ras Ali.

Alliances change again: Guocho and Syoum are allied against Birro and Oublé and under the suzerainty of Ali. Birro increased his army to 50,000 men. Factional warfare, as is often the case, consists of many battles, with no winner or vanquished.

Arnauld returned to Gondar in July 1844 and was joined by Antoine on 30 July. The latter left for Massawa on September 25 and returned around December 20. Meeting in Gondar, the two brothers analyze the information in their possession on possible hypotheses concerning the source of the White Nile. They believe that the Ghibie, which revolves around the Kaffa, should unite with the Omo, which is, according to the advice of Joseph-Pons d'Arnaud, the main tributary of the White Nile. Despite the dangers, they plan a second trip to Ennaréa, to determine the source of the Ghibé.

1844-1846
At the end of December 1844, Domingo, the former Basque servant of Antoine and Arnauld, arrived in Gondar. The two brothers had released him from their service and advised him to return to France. But Domingo preferred to stay in Abyssinia with a life of adventurer, hoping to make a fortune there. Unfortunately, he arrived ill and died on January 19, 1845. Arnauld wants to send his belongings to Domingo's family in the Basque country and comes into conflict with the Waïzoro Menan, who, hoping that Domingo is rich, wants to keep his belongings for herself. Arnauld settles this problem diplomatically and another between the Waïzoro and the Abuna that has been simmering for months.

The two brothers left Gondar on February 18, 1845. Antoine leaves for Kouarato, on his way to the kingdom of Enaréa, and Arnauld for the hot springs of Gor Amba (12° 25' 60" N, 38° 43' 0" E) to be treated (tapeworm?). At Gor Amba, he met Walter Plowden, an English explorer, who had left his companion John Bell (future advisor to Tewodros II) to Mahadera Mariam. A brawl between a man from Arnauld, who wounds a native, is problematic. There is a threat of trial, with very serious consequences for Arnauld if the man dies. To avoid danger, Arnauld and Plowden immediately leave for Kouarata near Lake Tana to join Antoine, Guocho and Ali. They arrived on March 8, 1845.

In order to increase his military power, Guocho leaves with Arnauld to recruit deserters from Birro. They returned to Kouarata on April 8, 1845.

As for Antony, he leaves with Ras Ali to go to Gojjam, because it takes an escort of armed troops to cross the country infested by various factions opposed to Ali and Guocho. Antoine left Ali on 14 April 1845 and travelled south alone.

The war between Ali, Guocho, Birro, Oubié and other regional potentates is in full swing. Arnauld participates very actively, with great intelligence and bravery. He is so appreciated by Guocho that the latter offers him to entrust him with the command of his armies. It's a position Arnauld dreamed of. At the same time, Antoine calls him to leave Guocho and come to Ennaréa to look for the source of the White Nile.

Arnauld is torn between Guocho and his brother. After careful consideration, Arnauld tells Guocho that he must join his brother, but after their expedition, he will return to him. With sadness, Guocho gives his blessing to Arnauld's journey. Ali's permission must also be obtained to join Antoine and Ali categorically refuses to let Arnauld go. He is too useful as a military man.

However, Arnauld manages to convince Ali that if he entrusts him with a diplomatic mission to the Prince of Enaréa, Abba Bogibo, the result will be beneficial for Ali. The mission will also protect Arnauld from mistreatment by Abba Bogibo.

Arnauld leaves with a caravan that goes towards Ennaréa. En route, he meets Plowden and Belle again, and together they cross the Blue River, just before the great floods, to arrive in the Galla country. The two Englishmen carry rifles to protect themselves, but Arnauld strongly advises them to get rid of all their firearms, because they provoke the lust of the gallas, who will not hesitate to kill to obtain them and in case of use, if Plowden or Bell kill a galla, all the Europeans in the vicinity will be massacred!

After the crossing, Arnauld and the English separated, each with their protector Galla; that of Arnauld is Choumi a notable galla. Arnauld arrived at the village of Choumi on July 8, 1845

Plowden did not follow Arnauld's instructions and a few days later, during a confrontation with a gang of gallas, he killed a man. The consequence is that all armed bands of surrounding Galla want to massacre every European on their territory. The road to Ennaréa is now blocked for Arnauld.

Stuck at Choumi, Arnauld cannot return to Godjam because the Blue Nile is now in flood and any crossing is impossible. He took advantage of this period of inactivity to learn the Galla languages. In the villages, Arnauld uses his knowledge of morals and psychology to practice geomancy. He impresses and has the reputation of being a soothsayer!

On August 25, Arnauld received news of Antoine. He is at Abba Bagibo's house, the latter wants Arnauld to come to his house. More messengers on October 25 and November 24. In the latter, Antoine says that an open road may be possible (but still very dangerous). Arnauld leaves with six men and crosses very hostile countries, fever, armed groups who want to kill him, etc. On 10 December, Arnauld crossed the Gibe and was safe in the kingdom of Limmou-Enaréa. He arrived in Saqqa, the main town of Enarena, on December 15, 1845. Antoine is here.

After leaving Ali on April 14, 1846, Antony crossed the Abaid again and, without escort, arrived in the kingdom of Jimma in June. Ten days later, he crossed the border of the kingdom of Limma-Enaréa and began to collect information about the rivers and their sources. He finally recognized in the Gibe d'Enarea the main tributary of the Omo and therefore of the White Nile. The spring is in the Ababya Forest north of Jimma.

Arnauld and Antoine had an audience with Abba Bagibo on 20 December 1845 and they asked him for permission to go to the source of the Gibe, under the pretext of making an offering to a local deity. Abba Bagibo, who recently converted to Islam, also keeps ancestral beliefs and grants them their request.

The two brothers left Saqqa on January 15 and arrived at the source on January 19, 1846. They planted the French flag and drank to the health of King Louis-Philippe I. The source is nothing spectacular and there are plethora of other streams that can claim to be THE much sought after source.

Antoine wrote: "The future will decide whether we have chosen its place among the maze of rivers whose meanders crisscross this part of Africa." Indeed, their choice of source is accepted as the source of the Gibe, but their assumption that the Omo is a tributary of the White Nile is false. As soon as Antony published the account of their discovery it was contested, notably by the English explorer Charles Beke.

Antoine and Arnauld are retained as "hosts" by Abba Boggibo. He wants to use Arnauld's "divinatory gift" for his own purposes. Escape is almost impossible, you had to kill several guards, cross deserts, avoid armed gangs, etc. To get out, Arnauld plans to hide his brother in a caravan that leaves the country, then after, escape himself and try to cross Ennaréa and Galla alone. But, before putting the plan into action, a fantasy of Abba Baggibo opens the way out: Abba Bagibo wants as wife a relative of Ras Ali and he charges Arnauld to do the negotiations! The two Saqqa brothers leave Saqqa with all the honors!

The road back is strewn with difficulties, quarrels between tribes; They are threatened with death repeatedly. They were forced to separate and did not reunite until December 1846.

1847-1849
Arnauld and Antoine arrived in Gondar on 20 April 1847 along the eastern shore of Lake Tana. They learn that their younger brother, Charles, is in Massawa and that he is looking for them. Indeed, their mother, without news of them for nearly two years, is worried; she sought advice and help from the Vatican and the viceroy of Egypt, then sent her third son to Ethiopia. Antoine left for Massawa on July 25, 1847 to look for Charles. The two brothers returned to Gondar.

Antoine made the exploration of Agame and in 1848 that of Semien Gondar where he made the ascent of Ras Dashan, the highest point of Ethiopia and the Simian Mountains. Its altitude measurement (4,600 meters) is very close to the modern estimate (4,550 meters).

Unfortunately, Antony's chronic ophthalmia blinded him and he was forced to leave Abyssinia for good. On October 4, 1848, Antoine left Massawa and arrived in Cairo on November 3. Arnauld and Charles left Massawa at the end of November. The three brothers returned to France early in 1849.

Source
(Fr) Cet article est partiellement ou en totalité issu de l’article de Wikipédia en français intitulé « Douze ans de séjour dans la Haute-Éthiopie »








 * , initiative de publication prise par Jean de Saint-Chamas et Bruno d’Abbadie d’Arrast.


 * Jeanne-Marie Allier, « Arnauld d’Abbadie au service de son frère aîné », dans Jean-Louis Davant et al., Antoine d’Abbadie 1897-1997 : Congrès International 1997, Hendaye, Sare, Eusko Ikaskuntza, 1998 (ISBN 9788489516717, lire en ligne). .



Références
