User:Segiz/Saukele

Saukele (Kazakh: sәukele, Kyrgyz: shөkүlө) is a high cone-shaped headdress, about 70 centimeters high, decorated with silver and gold coins, pearls and corals, one of the ancient headdresses that Kazakhs had until the end of the 19th century.

The wedding headdress is worn only for the first time after marriage, for about a year, and then removed and worn only during major holidays, and then for four or five years. One year after marriage, women begin to wear a simpler, more practical and comfortable headgear - “bile”. This is a simplified saukele, it has a solid frame in the shape of a truncated cone, which is sheathed with a glaze or wrapped with foil, decorated with pendants of gold and silver plaques with inserts of gems. After the birth of children, a young woman goes to the third type of headdress - "kimeshek." It is usually worn at the age of 25-45 years. It is sewn of white fabric, often embroidered with satin stitch.

Saukele consists of two parts: sau (whole, whole) and kele (top, tower). The saukele frame was made of dense white felt, covered with velvet, silk, satin or velor. The poor sewed it from cloth or satin, decorated with glass beads or beads. The rich embroidered the headdress with jewels - rubies, pearls, corals.

The saukele was trimmed with a fringe, the ornaments were made of various small gold and silver coins and figured plates that served as a setting for precious and semi-precious stones - carnelian, turquoise, amethyst. Rich brides could afford a saukele with two amply embellished wide plates.

The top of the saukele was invariably crowned with an uky, a fluffy bunch of feathers of an eagle owl. The edges of the cap were decorated with mink, sable or fox fur. An obligatory addition to the saukele was long pendants - the Zhaktau, attached to it from the sides, reaching to the waist or lower. Then, special velvet pockets were sewn to the bride's robe at the chest level, where the heavy ends of the Zhaktau were hidden so that the threads would not break under the weight of the jewelry. The number and length of zhaktau depended on the property status of the bride's parents. The pendants could be made of coral, turquoise, silver and gilded plates, pearls, silk tassels. On either side of the saukele, headphones were sewn, which were trimmed with fur, braid, decorated with beads, corals or silver. Also, in addition to pendants, temporal arches were added - shekelik - in the form of a triangle or a petal.

Top saukele covered with silk or velvet scarves. Patterns on scarves and ribbons were embroidered with iris - thick, twisted multicolored threads. The center and edges of the shawls often got off with “embroidery of a rope” and sewing with nets. Gold, silver and bronze pendants, and false plates for saukele were made by jewelers who used casting, chasing, stamping, filigree, etc.

The girl's plao during the performance of the ritual song of the beta-sharok could fall on its back; a large white veil - a bile was also attached to the saukele. In her wrapped figure and faces