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Cornelis A. Burgers
Born in the Netherlands in 1930. After High School at Het Baarnes Lyceum he worked for several years in his father’s linen and damask weaving mill. From 1956 onwards he began collecting old white linens damasks, building on a collection which his father had started in the early 1930’s. In 1959 he organised his first collection of old linen damasks. In 1966 he was appointed Assistant Curator in the Department of Applied Arts of the Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam, where he became curator of Textiles in 1980. He published, mainly on linen damasks and other textiles, but also on three Maastricht potteries dating between 1850 and 1868. In recent years the most important part of his collection of linen damasks was acquired by the Abegg- Stifting.

Early Life
Born in 1930, he was generally known as Kees. After private and preliminary schooling in Boxtel and Vught, he attended grammar school (gymnasium bêta) at Het Baarns Lyceum. For a short time he took classes at the college of textile technology in Enschede. His real interests, however, lay elsewhere (in Homer, biology, and geology). At his father's wish, but without much enthusiasm, he joined his father’s factory, the Linnen- en Damastweverij W.J.van Hoogerwou & Zonen, in 1954.

In August 1955 Cornelis A. Burgers visited friends in Wales. Beforehand he had written to the Victoria & Albert Museum in London asking whether it would be possible to see their collection of linen damasks. That memorable visit completely changed the direction of his life. Unfortunately, Cornelis's father died a few months later, and, in the short time left, there was scarcely time to discuss the collection. Still, they were able to spend a day in the Rijksmuseum together, where Ms. Louise Erkelens showed them linen damasks under her care.

Immediately after the visit to the Victoria & Albert Museum Cornelis got in touch with the textile researcher Dr. G.T. van Ysselsteyn. Since 1936 she had often visited his parents, studied the collection, and had frequently corresponded with his father. The new contact proved instructive for both sides, and remained so for many years.

In 1961/62, on extended tours, I was able to study the important collections of linen damasks in Copenhagen, Århus, Oslo, Stockholm, Gripsholm, and Malmö; those of Skokloster followed some years later. In Leiden I attended Professor Th.H. Lunsingh Scheurleer’s lectures on the History of Art.

In 1965 I was invited to join the staff of the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam. My appointment as an Assistant-Keeper in the Department of Sculpture and Applied Arts followed in 1966. This, of course, brought about a great change in my life. In 1980 I succeeded Mrs. A.M. Louise E. Mulder-Erkelens as Curator of Textiles. I applied for early retirement in 1991.

In 1968 the Ministry granted me three months sabbatical leave to work in the Department of Textiles in the Victoria & Albert Museum. The collection of linen damasks could again be studied extensively. An interest in seventeenth- and eighteenth-century silk designs developed during this stay. Later, over a period of years, I was able to study several other textile collections around the world.

For many years I was an Honorary Curator of the Koninklijk Oudheidkundig Genootschap (Royal Antiquarian Society) in Amsterdam. From 1973 I was a member, and later a vice-president, of the Conseil de Direction of the Centre International d’Etude des Textiles Anciens, and a member of the Board of the Nederlands Textiel Museum in Tilburg. From 1973–1978, on behalf of the International Council of Museums, I was an advisor to the Special Bureau of H.I.M. the Shabanou of Iran for the renovation and development of Iranian museums. In 1977 I was awarded the Mr. J.W. Frederiks Prize for publications on nineteenth-century Maastricht pottery.

Within the scope of this brief introduction it is not possible to go into detail about the enormous expansion of the collection in its second phase, after 1955. A random survey of how its growth materialized will have to suffice.

Soon after I had been given custody of the collection a great number of damasks were acquired through gifts, bequests, exchanges, and purchases. From the start, in 1956 and 1957, several important items were added to the collection. Among them were, for example, a napkin with the coat of arms of Prince Maurits of Nassau, dated 1601 (cat. no. 16 [inv. no. 5127]; a set with Orpheus and the animals, with the arms of Douwe van Aylva and Lucia van Meckema, 1661 (cat. no. 51 [inv. no. 3651]); a tablecloth with the arms of James I of England, dated 1609 (cat. no. 6 [inv. no. 3653]); also a banquet napkin, late sixteenth or early seventeenth century, with typologies of the Virgin Mary. (fig. In1.2.9)

In 1958, five napkins were exchanged with the Rijksmuseum (cf. cat. nos 22, [inv. no. 3825], 57 [inv. no. 4531], and 82, note 57 [inv. no. 3357]). The following year, at the request of the Society for Arts and Sciences in Noord-Brabant, I organised and arranged the first exhibition in The Netherlands solely devoted to linen damasks. Loans were obtained from H.M. Queen Juliana of The Netherlands, and from several museums and private owners. As a result of this event a great number of acquisitions again followed. Highlights were the magnificent tablecloth and napkins dating from about 1520–1530, with a hunt and other scenes set against the background of a pomegranate pattern. (fig. In1.2.10)

Further acquisitions included a tablecloth and napkins with the an equestrian portrait of the Count of Monterrey, 1667 (cat. no. 80 [inv. no. 3652], and napkins with the coat of arms of Van der Gracht, 1636 (cat. no. 31 [inv. no. 3848]), and of Bishop van der Noot (cat. no. 99, 101 [inv. nos 3799 and 3800]), also a tablecloth with napkins with the arms of Christian IV of Denmark (cat. nos 24 [inv. no. 3650] and 22 [inv. no. 3826]).

In 1960 a large quantity of damasks was received from the estate of The Hon. Mrs. A.A.C.C. de Jonge van Zwijnsbergen, née Grundtmann Lycklema à Nyeholt. Included were two tablecloths with the coats of arms of eighteen Frisian families, and the accompanying towels and napkins (cat. nos 37–38, 40–43 [inv. nos 3648, 3647, 3569, 3243, 3241, 3242]).

Three articles and, in 1964, another exhibition followed shortly after, which brought another avalanche of acquisitions. Among them were two spectacular banquet napkins. Another, dating to about 1540, depicts Adam and Eve in Paradise. (fig. In1.2.11) Also a truly Dutch napkin, 1662, with charming scenes of skating and sledging (cat. no. 55 [inv. no. 3846]).

During several visits to the Museum in Courtrai, the Honorary Keeper, Ir. Aimé G. Pauwels, allowed me to make extensive research of their collection, which was heavily damaged during World War II. An exchange with the museum followed somewhat later and added several items, including a fragment of a sixteenth-century tablecloth with a Plus Oultre pattern (cat. no. 7 [inv. no. 3915]), a napkin from about 1600 with the arms of Archduke Albertus, Sovereign of the Spanish Netherlands (cat. no. 9 [inv. no. 5197]), and a fragment of a tablecloth and a napkin, dated 1615 and woven with the Story of St. John the Baptist (cat. no. 27 [inv. no. 3853]).

With my appointment to the Rijksmuseum the Ministry of Culture, Recreation, and Welfare granted me a dispensation, allowing me to add linen damasks to the Burgers Collection. In close cooperation with the Director of Sculpture and Applied Arts, Abraham L. den Blaauwen, lots were often divided between the museum and the collector. The purchase, at auction, of two sixteenth-century tablecloths with the Parable of the Prodigal Son, woven with the arms of Courtrai, and napkins with Christ at Emmaus, 1671, are good examples. An outstanding acquisition was the purchase of the enormous number of damasks and diapered linens from the estate of the Ruurlo Castle. Among these was another tablecloth with the eighteen Frisian coats of arms, with its napkins (cat. nos 37, 39 [inv. no. 5196, 3249], and 41 [inv. no. 3244]). Also long towels, one with the coats of arms of Burgh and Hooft (cat. no. 66 [inv. no. 3573]), the other with the arms of Van Ommeren and Pauw (cat. no. 49 [inv. no. 3918]). Further, a.o., still more armorial table linen, a tablecloth with the History of Samson, and napery with warfare scenes, flowers, and diapered patterns.

In 1977–1978 I was asked to make an inventory of the linens of the Twickel Castle, Delden, which consisted of over 4000 pieces. The Trustees of the Twickel Foundation made a most magnanimous gift to the Rijksmuseum of a choice of damasks and diapered linens, together with other textiles. Shortly afterwards the Trustees surprised me with a large gift for my own collection. Owing to this, the latter was not only enriched with a variety of damasks but specifically with a great number of diapered linens, several of them dated: 1651, 1714, 1726, 1730, 1731, 1734, 1737, 1739, 1742, 1745, 1756, 1780, 1784, 1785, 1790.

In 1952 the heirs to the estate of Professor Six had given the larger part of his famous collection of white linen damasks to the Rijksmuseum. From his daughters, the Hon. Miss C.I. Six and the Hon. Miss H.M.A.F. Six, and their brother, Jonkheer P.J. Six, I later received several damasks, together with notes and letters from their father’s former collection. Among them were napkins with the coat of arms of Prince Maurits, dated 1604 (cat. no. 18 [inv. no. 3834]), and another with the triumphal return from war by Louis XIV (cat. no. 82 [inv. no. 3357]). From their private estate a large number of significant damasks was acquired at auction in 1992. Among them was a curious napkin with the coats of arms Ayla and Meckema of about 1670, though dated 1662 (cat. no. 53 [inv. no. 4598]), a table set with the coats of arms Boogaert impaling Briel (cat. no. 63 [inv. no. 4535]), a hand towel with coats of arms (cat. no. 89 [inv. no. 4595]), and several others.

The collection was further increased by many other generous gifts. If I recall only a few, it is with no intention of depreciating the value of numerous others. Examples include napkins with the Arma Christi, dating from the sixteenth century, an Annunciation, early seventeenth century,  a tablecloth with a PLUS OULTRE pattern, 1612 (cat. no. 11 [inv. no. 3753]), and a towel with strewn flowers, with the embroidered date 1660. Further examples were the bequest of a tablecloth and napkin with a cavalry battle, woven with the arms Aylva and Meckema, 1663 (cat. no. 56 [inv. nos 3646, 3845]), and the gift of a napkin with allegories of the Four Continents. Relatives gave me some seventeenth-century napkins with shipping scenes, which were actually inherited treasures from the Burgers family.

Exchanges with private collectors also contributed significantly to complete the Burgers Collection. Highlights, again to name only a few, include Flemish napkins with an allegory on the Recapture of Grave in 1674 (cat. no. 83 [inv. no. 3365]), a possibly Dutch tablecloth and napkin with the arms Kops and De Vos, 1745 (cat. no. 129 [inv. nos 4763, 4836]), a napkin, probably Scottish, with the arms of the Countess of Findlater, 1760 (cat. no. 135 [inv. no. 4762]), a German napkin with the arms of Princess Maria Antonia of Bavaria, 1771 (cat. no. 140 [inv. no. 4523]), a napkin woven in Yaroslawl, Russia, for the Russian Court in 1778 (cat. no. 154 [inv. no. 4520]), and Irish napkins woven by the Coulson Manufactory, 1817–1818 (cat. no. 141 [inv. no. 4524]).

Acquisitions bought from private persons, at auctions, or from dealers were also numerous, for example, napkins and a hand towel with ships at sea. (fig. In1.2.12) Early specimens include napkins with the portrait of Queen Elizabeth I (cat. no. 63 [inv. no. 4534]). Outstanding examples were napkins with the arms of Prince Maurits of Nassau, 1601 and 1604 (cat. nos 16 [inv. no. 3231], and 18 [inv. no. 3230]), one undated (cat. no. 20 [inv. no. 3233]), and others with the Garter, 1613 (cat. nos 21, 21a [inv. nos 4590, 4592]). Also of great historical interest are the tablecloth and a banquet-napkin depicting the hereditary succession of the Burgundian Netherlands (cat. nos 14, 13 [inv. nos 4800, 4525]). Also a napkin with an equestrian portrait of Archduke Leopold William of Austria, 1655 (cat. no. 48 [inv. no. 3924]), and a tablecloth with its napkins woven to commemorate the marriage of Louis XIV with Maria Theresia of Spain, 1662 (cat. no. 78 [inv. no. 4537]). A tablecloth from a large set with Orpheus and the animals has exceptionally wide horizontal borders.(fig. In1.2.13)

At the time of its transfer to the Abegg-Stiftung, Riggisberg, the collection was undoubtedly the largest in its field in private hands, equalling if not surpassing many of the world’s public collections. It excelled in damasks with heraldic achievements, covered a wide range of biblical stories, was well provided with a large variety of floral patterns, and contained numerous damasks relating to warfare. It also comprised various other subjects, such as hunting, mythology, allegories, banquets, townships, etc. The collection of diapered table linen, with many dated specimens, was outstanding. (fig. In1.2.14)

The collection boasted seven different patterns with the Courtrai arms, and several with the arms of Haarlem, features very rarely found. Moreover, apart from napkins assigned to the famous Haarlem weaver Passchier Lammertijn, it contained three napkins in which Courtrai weavers’ names were woven in: Paesschael Staes, 1706, I. Vercrvisse, 1718, and I.B.D. Ghendt, 1745.

Collecting can be a life-long delight. This is overwhelmingly evident in the Museum of the Abegg-Stiftung Riggisberg with its refined treasures, carefully selected by Mr. and Mrs. Werner Abegg. It is a privilege beyond doubt that a complete representation of the Burgers Collection of White Linen Damasks, built up over sixty-five years, with equal love, has been incorporated in this unique Foundation.

In 1995 Cornelis A. Burgers and his partner Johan G. du Preez moved to South Africa. They currently live and work in Sea Point.

Publications:

 * 1. Burgers 1960      Cornelis A. Burgers, “De Frriese wapens tussen andere wapen inwevingen in Haarlemse linen tefel-damastem uit de 17de eeuw,” De Fries, 44(1960), 123–48
 * 2. Burgers 1965	Cornelis A. Burgers, “ Nogmaals Passchier Lammertijin,” Oud Holland, 80 (1965), 139-68
 * 3. Burgers 1966	Cornelis A. Burgers, Book review of van Ysselteyn 1962, The Burlington Magazine, 108.754 (1966), 41
 * 4. Burgers 1969	Cornelis A. Burgers, “Tafelgoed in vroerger tijd,” Voedingsnieuws, 60 (1969), 935-54
 * 5. Burgers 1969      Cornelis A. Burgers, “De verovering van Boeda-Pest en de geschiedenis van een damastpatroon.” Bulletin van het Rijksmuseum, 17.3
 * 6. Burgers 1973	Cornelis A. Burger, “Tijdgenogten over Haarlem, IV: Philip Skippon, 1663,” Hearlem Jaarboek, 1973 (1973), 323-28
 * 7. Burgers 1975	Cornelis A. Burger, “Een achttiende-eeuws servet met bloemmotiven,” Bulletin van het Rijksmuseum, 23.2 (1975), 76-78
 * 8. Burgers 1976/77   Cornelis A. Burger, Inventaris Twickel (Amsterdam, Rijksmuseum, 1976/77) [unpublished]
 * 9. Burgers 1977	Cornelis A. Burger, Inventaris Ruurlo (Amsterdam, Rijksmuseum, 1977) [unpublished]
 * 10. Burgers 1978     Cornelis A. Burger, Inventaris Weldam (Amsterdam, Rijksmuseum, 1978) [unpublished]
 * 11. Burgers 1980     Cornelis A. Burger, “Bizarre patronen in linen damast,” Nederlands Kunsthistorisch Jaarboek, 31. 1980 (1981), 289-98
 * 12. Burgers 1981     Cornelis A. Burger, “Dutch Damasks for Denmark,” in Documenta Textilia: Festschrift fur Sigrid Mulle-Christensen, ed. By Mechthild Flurry-Lemberg and
 * Karen Stolleis, Bayerisches Nationalmuseum Munchen: Forschungshefte, 7 (Munich 1981), 251-60
 * 13. Burgers 1987     Cornelis A. Burger, “A Long-Lived Damask Border Design,” Bulletin du CIETA, 65 (1987), 142
 * 14. Burgers 1987     Cornelis A. Burger, “Some notes on Western European Table Linen from the 16th through the 18th centuries,” in: Upholstery in America and Europe from
 * the seventeenth Century to World War I, ed. by Edward S. Cook Jr. (new York/London 1987), 149-61
 * 15. Burgers 1990     Cornelis A. Burger, “Nederlandse heraldiek uit de textielverzameling ven het Rijksmuseum: Kanttekeningen bij een klein expositie,” Bulletin van het
 * Rijksmuseum, 38.1 (1990), 48-68.
 * 16. Burgers 1993	Cornelis A. Burger, “Passchier Lammertijn,” in: Cat. Amsterdam 1993, 309.
 * 17. Burgers 1995	Cornelis A. Burger, “Damast,” in: van der Ree- Scholten 1995, 309- 10.
 * 18. Burgers 1996	Cornelis A. Burger, “Addition to G. Ploos van Amstel: Undevenis, Ploos van Amstel?,” De Nedelandsche Leeuw, 113 (1996), 475.
 * 19. Burgers 1998	Cornelis A. Burger, Book review of Pauwels/Bauwens-de Jagere 1986 – 1996, Textile History, 29.1 (1998), 112-14
 * 20. Burgers 1999	Cornelis A. Burger, “A brief history of the Burgers collection of White Linnen Damask,” in: Schorta (ed.) 1999,9.
 * 21. Burgers 1990a	Cornelis A. Burger, ‘’A group of 7-shaft White Linnen Damasks Dating from the Early 16th Century,” in: Schorta (ed.) 1999, 201-19
 * 22. Burgers 1990b	Cornelis A. Burger, “Notes on the Early Haarlem Workshops of Passchier Lammertijn, Quirijn Jansz Damast and Others: Some Facts and Attributions,” in
 * Schorta (ed.) 1999, 221-38.

Cornelis A. Burgers White Linen Damasks I Heraldic Motifs from the Sixteenth Century to Circa 1830

The Abegg-Stifting’s collection of White Linen Damasks ranks amongst the foremost in the world after the acquisition of the C.A. Burgers and J.G. du Preez collection. With table cloths, banquet napkins, handtowels, and napkins it covers a wide range of patterns, including heraldic and historical motif, biblical and mythological stories, flowers hunting scenes, views of towns, etc, With emphasis on heraldic motifs all such patterns features in this catalogue. Coats of arms were woven into linen damasks from the early sixteenth century onwards, either as the sole motif or incorporated into an existing pattern. Occasionally clients also had their names and a date woven in, Most of this napery originates from weaving centres in the Southern and Northern Netharlands, Germany, Scotland, Ireland and Russia.