User:Studio55nyc/Christelle kocher

Christelle Kocher Born in Strasbourg, she left her home to train at Central Saint Martins. (CITE: NJ)

Born: need birth year cited Nationality: French Education: from NJ article Occupation: Fashion designer Awards: LVMH Prize, shortlisted Labels: Koché

Career
After working for around 10 years as a designer for the industry's biggest names, she has taken the leap and founded her own brand, Koché, while still continuing as Artistic Director for the Maison Lemarié workrooms.

I graduated from Central Saint Martins School in London in 2002. At the final year fashion show I was approached by Giorgio Armani. In all the excitement I joined Emporio Armani before realising a few months later that I really wanted to devote my energy to a more creative, less classic label. Then I started to work with Martine Sitbon; for three years I designed collections and managed the workroom with her. It was a rewarding and amazing experience. Unfortunately it ended when the company encountered financial difficulties. After that, I went to Chloé as a flou (delicate fabrics) designer, and then spent a short period with Sonia Rykiel.

In 2009, when I was asked to become Dries Van Noten's first assistant, I didn't hesitate. It was very fulfilling to be part of such a fashion house, which also has the distinction of being independent. And finally, my latest experience designing for a brand was with Tomas Maier, who I assisted in designing the Bottega Veneta women's collection. At the same time I had been appointed Artistic Director for feather specialist Maison Lemarie where I worked very closely with the artisans. The goal was to bring fresh energy and new vision to the business, to wake it up. It was a real challenge for me since it was my first encounter with embroidery and plumasserie (feather arts). I started with them four years ago and I really want to continue. Today there are five times more employees and the house's image is evolving.

Before starting Koché last year, Christelle Kocher spent a decade in the fashion industry working for established houses like Emporio Armani, Chloé, Sonia Rykiel, Bottega Veneta, and Dries Van Noten. For the last five years, Kocher has also served as the artistic director of Maison Lemarie, a 19th century fashion house that crafts feathers, flowers, smocking, and ruffles for couture houses. Now with Koché, the Paris-based Central Saint Martins graduate has a label to share her voice and vision: a mix of haute couture and contemporary streetwear.

Being in contact with all the Lemarié artisans was a real turning point for me and inspired me to create my own label. I launched my brand in September after deciding to end my contract with Bottega Veneta. I work closely with artisan fashion houses, and that month I presented my first collection in a showroom. I want to bring a less glorified and more comfortable, streetwear feeling to fashion. I have the capacity to make really beautiful, unique pieces. I challenge the artisans by asking them to work with materials such as jersey knits or other more sportswear fabrics.

Koché: Christelle Kocher uses legendary Parisian maisons Montex and Lemarié to create her exquisitely crafted clothes (all on display at the LVMH Prize cocktail party this evening) and you can tell. From the jersey­lined feather hoodies to the intricately beaded minidresses and expertly rendered knits, we were hard­pressed to pick a favorite.

March 4 and 5 are coming in full Paris Fashion Week, these 26 candidates will each present two collections representative of their style before a committee of 45 experts quite impressive, those who make and unmake fashion.

The next step for the 26 shortlisted designers will be to travel to Paris, where they will show their collections in front of a panel of 45 industry experts, including renowned fashion critic Cathy Horyn, Angelica Cheung, editor ­in ­chief of Vogue China, and Linda Fargo, senior vice president of Bergdorf Goodman, who will whittle them down to eight finalists.