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Beekbergen

Geography
Beekbergen lies on the eastern edge of the forested and hilly Veluwe region, where agricultural lands start that extend into the valley of the IJssel river to the east. The Veluwe is part of the European Natura 2000 network of protected areas. Within the province of Gelderland, it is located in the municipality of Apeldoorn. Beekbergen borders the namesake city to the north. Other nearby places include Lieren, Loenen, Hoenderloo, and Ugchelen, which are located to Beekbergen's east, south-east, south-west, and north-west, respectively. A small stream, called the Oude Beek (Old brook), originates just west of Beekbergen's built-up area and flows north of the village and then to the east. The official boundaries of Beekbergen also include an agrarian hamlet called Engeland, which is located west of the village.

The Veluwe's hills were formed during the Penultimate Glacial Period; the area had been part of the flat Rhine delta until it was covered by ice as part of the Saale glaciation, which started 240,000 years ago. The ice pushed the soil of the IJssel valley to both sides, resulting in the push moraine complexes of the Veluwe in the west and the Sallandse Heuvelrug in the east. The Weichselian glaciation of the Last Glacial Period (110,000 to 10,000 years ago) did not reach the Netherlands. Due to permafrost, however, meltwater flowed on the surface of the Veluwe to lower areas, resulting in deep valleys perpendicular to the push moraine's north–south ridge. Simultaneously, the wind brought sand from the dry North Sea, resulting in a sand cover of several meters. Subsequent more humid climates caused the area to become forested, initially with Scotch pines and later with birches, oaks, and European beeches. This has led to podzolic soils. Following the glacial age, higher precipitation caused a slow continuous flow of water in the Veluwe push moraine complex, and the ground water reached the surface in lower areas forming brooks. One such brook, the Oude Beek, originates in Engeland and runs through a valley north of Beekbergen before joining the Beekbergse Beek and eventually flowing into the IJssel. The Oude Beek receives additional water due to seepage throughout its course.

History
Beekbergen, located between the forested and hilly Veluwe region and the valley of the IJssel river, is of agricultural origin. A cultural-historical analysis noted that the area's "varied terrain with cover sands and brook valleys has provided favorable conditions for occupation." No traces of permanent settlement have been found from before the Early Middle Ages. The first known inhabitants of the Veluwe area arrived in the New Stone Age between 5300 and 2000 BC. They burned down parts of the old-growth forest to create fields for farming, especially in the higher parts of the Veluwe. As they did not use fertilization, they moved around often, and the abandoned fields turned into heathlands. Several traces of this earliest period of settlement exist in Beekbergen: an urnfield (1100–12 BC) has been found near the current Achterste Kerkweg as well as burial mounds in the forest west of the village.

Developments in agriculture in the Early Middle Ages caused farmers to stay in one place. Fallowing – a technique that leaves land unsown in order to recover – allowed for systems of open fields as well as for more livestock. The soil of the Veluwe was most attractive for arable fields at the transition between high and low ground. Farmers later started using organic fertilizer, and a large system of open arable fields – referred to as an enk – formed in Beekbergen and neighboring Lieren, supporting the cultivation of rye, oat, and barley. It was enclosed by forests, heathlands, and bogs in the south and west and by the brook valley of the Oude Beek in the north. Organic fertilizer was collected from heath- and grasslands and either applied directly to the fields or after it had been combined with sheep manure in one of the sheepfolds located along the edges of the heaths. The ground level rose as a result of the layers of fertilizer. Furthermore, swampy forests along that brook were reclaimed and divided into narrow plots to serve as pastures and hayfields for cows. These plots were separated by tall plantings in contrast to those of the system of open fields.

The village itself developed between the system of fields and the Oude Beek as a ribbon. The first known mention of Beekbergen is in an undated ecclesiastical deed of gift, likely from the early ninth century. The nearby hamlet of Engeland, which is within the current boundaries of Beekbergen, appeared in a document from 801 as "Englandi". A tuff church building – the predecessor of Beekbergen's present-day main church – was built in the 11th century by the collegiate chapter of St. Mary's Church in Utrecht. It also serviced the surrounding villages, which remained without a church for centuries. The collegiate chapter owned more land in the area and constructed a farmstead for peasants called Voshuizen between Beekbergen and Lieren. According to tradition, a wooden church had already been built in Beekbergen by the missionary Ludger (c. 742–809), but no archeological evidence has been uncovered. The Herenhul, located in the Bruggelen forest between Beekbergen and Ugchelen, served an important administrative function as the location of assemblies of the landdrost and the Hanseatic League, and it was first mentioned in 1227. Besides, dukes of Guelders held legal proceedings and were sworn in at the location.

In the Veluwe, some heaths and bogs turned into sand drifts as a result of the collection of organic fertilizer and fuel, the grazing of cattle, and the cutting down of trees for timber. This threatened the grazing lands and the arable fields and the village itself. The system of fields in Beekbergen were protected by a barrier of coppice and thorny bushes on the south-west side, the prevailing wind direction. It had several openings for access and also prevented both livestock and wild animals from crossing. Farmers using areas outside the arable fields founded marken starting in the 13th century. These collectives owned, managed, and supervised those lands. The Lierder Mark controlled the area surrounding Beekbergen and Lieren, and it also had rights to cut trees and have livestock graze in the neighboring Speldermark, located to the west. Administratively, Beekbergen was part of the schoutambt of Apeldoorn. Manors became prevalent some time later, with the first two being founded in 1571.

The Oude Beek, which runs north of Beekbergen, combined with the area's uneven terrain provided an opportunity to make use of hydropower. The Gasthuismolen, a watermill in Lieren, had been in use since 1295 for grinding grain. The first watermill in Beekbergen – the Tullekensmolen – was constructed in 1535 by an Arnhem hospital called Sint-Petersgasthuis, which had obtained the Lieren mill two years earlier, and was used for the fulling of wool. When the supply of paper to the Netherlands was cut by wars, the brooks of the Veluwe were utilized as a power source for papermaking starting in the late 16th century. Their relatively low levels of iron and lime made them especially appropriate for that purpose. The course of the Oude Beek was altered in order to support its exploitation. The Tullekensmolen was leased in 1601 to Marten Orges, who turned it into a paper mill. Five years later, he erected another overshot mill – the Ruitersmolen – about 400 m to the east. Two more paper mills with the same names as the other two were built on the north side of the Oude Beek in 1693 and 1718. At the time, the Veluwe's paper production was only surpassed in the Netherlands by that of the Zaan district. The invention of the steam engine made paper mills redundant in the second half of the 19th century. The older Ruitersmolen was transformed into a gristmill in 1843, while the younger one burned down in 1864. Both Tullekensmolens were lost in a fire in 1872. The older one was rebuilt after this and another fire eighteen years later. It served as a laundry in the period 1904–68.

Beekbergen's infrastructure, which had before only consisted of a network of sand and gravel roads, started to improve in the 19th century. The Arnhemseweg in Beekbergen became part of a main road running between Apeldoorn and Arnhem in 1830, an extension of the Apeldoorns Kanaal from Apeldoorn to Dieren was dug east of Lieren in the period 1858–68, and a railway between those same places was opened in 1887. A train station named "Beekberegen" is located on the route in Lieren. The flow of people and cargo aided in the development of Beekbergen. Until the early 20th century, Beekbergen remained a mostly agrarian settlement with two separate ribbons around the church and along the Tullekensmolenweg, which follows the Oude Beek. During that period, the linear developments around the Dorpstraat and Arnhemseweg became denser, and small businesses started to appear in Beekbergen's core, giving it the status of a hub for the neighboring communities. The school along the Dorpstraat had been founded in 1818, and De Smittenberg, a brewery turned inn, served as a resting place for travelers on the main road. Beekbergen was also its own municipality for a short while. Nearby Engeland did not experience similar developments and has remained an agricultural hamlet with scattered farms.

Simultaneously, the introduction of artificial fertilizer around 1880 had major consequences for the agricultural system. Fertile land was no longer restricted to the system of open fields of Beekbergen and Lieren. Furthermore, the heathlands that were controlled by the Lierder Mark were no longer needed for the collection of organic fertilizer and for the production of sheep manure, bringing an end to large-scale sheep farming. The Markenwet, which was enacted in 1886, allowed for marken to sell their lands. Their power had already been diminished by the introduction of municipalities as well as some other laws. An earlier attempt to bring the heathlands into cultivation and to divide them through an 1809 law had failed due to fierce opposition. The lands were eventually bought by major landowners and by wealthy city residents. They planted forests for the production of wood, which was used to support the coal mining industry in South Limburg. Enabled by artificial fertilizer, conifers were also planted to bring the expanding sand drifts to a halt that had reached their peak in the Veluwe around 1850. These new forests with little diversity were located south of Beekbergen and were often crossed by straight roads and paths. Beekbergen's system of arable fields shrank due to these forests on the south side and the transformation of some lots into pastures. Additionally, its south-west corner near Engeland was used for a new estate called Spelderholt; Louis Frederik Teixeira de Mattos from Amsterdam had purchased swathes of land from the former neighboring Speldermark, on which he built his country house.

Beekbergen developed itself as a place for healthcare institutions and tourism in the 20th century. It was attractive for the former due to its forested environment and affordable land. A Christian association bought Het Hogeland, a farm east of Beekbergen, in 1892. Vagrants and alcoholics received accommodation in exchange for their labor on the farm, and the facility remains in use. The Immendaal sanatorium was completed in 1910 to house tuberculosis patients from Rotterdam, who required clean air. The facility became redundant as a result of advances in antibiotics and was closed in the late 1950s. The building was consecutively used as a holiday camp, a geriatric institute, a Korsakoff syndrome treatment facility, and a nursing home.

The farmland between Beekbergen and Lieren underwent large-scale land consolidation starting in 1954. Smaller lots were exchanged, and the road plan was adjusted to improve accessibility. Some roads were straightened such as the Achterste Kerkweg, and several north–south connections were removed. The build-up area of Beekbergen started to get its current shape in the 1960s, when the area between the Dorpstraat and the Tullekensmolenweg was systematically filled with row and semi-detached houses to serve as a satellite village of Apeldoorn. The area south of the Dorpstraat was developed in the late 1980s.

History 2
When wars prevented paper from being imported to the Netherlands, the paper industry developed in the Veluwe. Due to the presence of the Oude Beek in Beekbergen, several watermills were constructed in the village. Two of them were called Tullekensmolen, while two others were named Ruitersmolen. They were later converted into mills used for washing clothes.

When in the 19th century paved roads, the Apeldoorns Kanaal, and a railroad were constructed in and around the village, Beekbergen experienced economic growth. The road between Apeldoorn and Arnhem, that ran through Beekbergen, was paved in 1830.

Later, the area became home to psychiatric hospitals, sanatoria, and retirement homes. Land was inexpensive and the forests made it a suitable environment for patients with tuberculosis and neurological disorders. Simultaneously, tourism started to develop in Beekbergen due to its close location to the Veluwe. At first, the area was popular amongst wealthy tourists, who stayed in pensions. Camp sites and holiday villages opened later.

Demography
The village's population has remained fairly stable over the last twenty years. At the start of 2020, Beekbergen had a total of 4,955 inhabitants, of which 54% was male, and 2,120 households. 2,545 of those people lived in the village itself as opposed to in the surrounding area. Beekbergen's population is relatively old with people over the age of 65 making up 27% of the population compared to 19% nationwide. People under 25 represented 22% of the population, which was five percentage points lower than in the Netherlands as a whole. Furthermore, relatively few residents of Beekbergen have a migrant background, meaning that they are foreign-born or have foreign-born parents; about 10% had a non-Dutch Western background, while this number was 3% for a non-Western background. The average wage per worker in 2018 was approximately €34,000.

In 2019, 32% of the houses in Beekbergen were rental homes, of which about 65% was social housing. The average house in the village was worth €359,000 – over a €100,000 more than the average house in the municipality Apeldoorn and in the country. Home prices in Beekbergen are especially high in areas outside the built-up area.

Economy / Tourism / Historic buildings / Religious sites
The village is popular among tourists, and therefore has a number of hotels, camp site, holiday villages, and restaurants. Shops and restaurants still centered around Dorpstraat and Arnhemseweg.

The Old Church was built in the 11th century by the collegiate chapter of St. Mary's Church in Utrecht. It was made of tuff and of the Romanesque style. It was rebuilt around 1200. It is the oldest architectural monument of the municipality of Apeldoorn. It was possibly preceded by a wooden church. An early Gothic tower was added in the 13th century. Current outlook from the 15th and 19th centuries. Changed from catholic to protestant around 1600, mural and vault paintings from before. Dedicated to Fabianus and Sebastianus before. Pseudo-basilica with nave and side aisles, tower with "ingesnoerde torenspits".

A cemetery along the Koningsweg was founded in 1829, when it was no longer allowed to bury inside the church. It was transferred to the municipality in 1935.

Three other church buildings have existed in Beekbergen. A former evangelization building is located along the Papenberg. This brick aisleless church was built in 1911 in the neo-Gothic style, commissioned by freule Hartsen. It became known later under the name Hervormd Centrum Het Hoogepad. The wooden Sint-Willibrorduskerk stood along the Henk Vullinkweg. It was a Roman Catholic temporary church from 1959, designed by J.G.A. van Dongen. The Reformed Congregation of Eben Hazaër has a church along the Ruitersmolenweg. It used to be a brick aisleless church in the "verzakelijkt" traditionalist style from 1960 (S.P. Kraaijeveld, expanded in 1988).

To the south-west of Beekbergen, a country house was built in the years 1907–08 by Louis Frederik Teixeira de Mattos as part of his Spelderholt estate. Built in the traditionalist style and featuring a turret, the house was designed by Haitsma Mulier. The garden is a design by Leonard Springer. It later served as a poultry research institute.

Post office built 1919–20, designed by J. Crouwel.

The Tullekensmolen, an overshot watermill last rebuilt after 1890, was turned into a classic car museum.

The lands around Beekbergen still contain some of the Low German houses from the 19th en 20th centuries. These farmhouses have a wooden frame, brick facades, and half-hip roofs – the older ones thatched, the new ones tiled. They contain living and farming quarters, which are separated by a firewall. The latter is turned towards the street to provide easy access for the transport of livestock and crop and has large barn doors. According to a cultural-historical analysis, the Low German houses in Beekbergen and Lieren are of considerable size for the region.

Transport
The north–south A50 motorway runs southeast of the village and has two nearby exits: Loenen and Hoenderloo. Besides, the east–west A1 motorway (E30) connects it to Amsterdam and Germany and is located to Beekbergen's north. It has two exits near the village as well: Apeldoorn-Zuid and Hoenderloo. Both motorways opened in 1972 and have an interchange, which is named after Beekbergen, to the northeast of the village. Some smaller roads connect Beekbergen to other nearby settlements; provincial road N788 runs from A50 exit Hoenderloo northward through Beekbergen to Apeldoorn under the name Arnhemseweg, while the N786 starts in the village and goes in a southeasterly direction to Loenen after having crossed the A50 at exit Loenen. The latter road is also known as the Loenenseweg. Finally, some smaller main roads connect Beekbergen to Lieren, Hoenderloo, and Ugchelen.

Two bus routes have stops in Beekbergen. Route C2, which is operated by Keolis Nederland under the name RRReiz, travels between Apeldoorn railway station and Arnhem Centraal railway station, with five stops in Beekbergen, taking the Arnhemseweg and the A50 motorway. Route 43 runs between the same starting and end point, but takes the Loenenseweg instead and passes through the villages Loenen, Eerbeek, and Dieren. It has six stops and is operated by both Keolis and Breng. Both routes share one stop in the village. Besides, the Dieren–Apeldoorn railway, which was used for passenger transport between 1887 and 1947, has a station called Beekbergen in the nearby village Lieren. It is currently used as a heritage railway by the Veluwsche Stoomtrein Maatschappij.