User:Vdrapalova/sandbox

Marek Mára Holeček (* born 5 November 1974 in Prague) is a Czech mountaineer, rock climber, explorer, documentary film maker, writer and photographer. Marek has received many mountaineering honors, crowned with the 2018 Piolet d'Or Award for his successful full ascent on the huge west face of Gasherbrum I with Zdeněk Hák achieved in pure Alpine style.


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Awards and Honors

 * 2018 Piolet d'Or Award for full ascent on the huge west face of Gasherbrum I. Co-climber: Zdeněk Hák
 * Czech Mountaineering Association awarded the Best Ascent of 2017 - first ascent to the eight-thousander Gasherbrum I. in the Alpine style. Co-climber: Zdeněk Hák
 * Nomination for the Piolets d'Or 2014 Prize (F & I) for the first ascent onto Talung (7348 m), Nepal. Co-climber: Zdeněk Hrubý
 * Honorable recognition at Golden Piton Awards 2006 (GB) for the first-ascent onto Meru Central (6310 m n.m.), India
 * Czech Mountaineering Association honorable recognition - 1997, 1999, 2001, 2012, 2014
 * Czech Mountaineering Association awarded the Best Ascent - 2000, 2002, 2003, 2006, 2008, 2013

Major Ascents

 * May 2018 - NEPAL, Central Himalayas, Kyazo Ri - 6186 m a.s.l., Name of the route: Lapse of Reason, start from W face and finish E through the summit head, M6, WI 4+, 3+UIAA, ED+, Length of ascent : 1600 m, Alpine style, Climbing partner: Zdeněk Hák
 * January 2018 - ANTARCTICA, Palmer Archipelago, Winkle Island, Monte Pizduch (1000 m a.s.l.), Name of the route: Bloody Nose, SW wall, ED+ (M4/W15+) in one place 95°), Length of ascent : 850 m, Alpine style, Climbing partner: Mirek Dub
 * July 2017 - PAKISTAN, Gasherbrum I. - 8 080m, Name of the route: Satisfaction!, SW wall, ED+ (M7, W15+), slope 70°, Length of ascent : 3000 m, Alpine style, Climbing partner: Zdeněk Hák, 2018 Piolet d'Or Award
 * January 2014 - ANTARCTICA, Palmer Archipelago, Region Anvers Island, Monte Samila – 1500 m a.s.l., Name of the route: Ohnivá lýtka Abdulova, J wall WI5, slope 70°,, Alpine style, Length of ascent 1700m, Climbing partner: Vladislav Nosek, Vladislav Jošt
 * May 2013 - NEPAL, Eastern Himalayas, Kanchenjunga region, Talung - 7343 m a.s.l., Name of the route: Thumba party, North Pillar M6, W16, Length of ascent : 2100 m, Duration of ascent: 7 days, Alpine style, Climbing partner: Zdeněk Hrubý, Nomination for the Piolets d'Or 2014 Prize (F & I)
 * September 2008 - AFGANISTAN, Vachán, Ishmurch Valley, Kohe Uparisina – 6260 m a.s.l., Name of the route: Sweet 65, NW notch, W15, slope 70°, Length of ascent : 1600 m, Duration of ascent: 4 days, Alpine style, Climbing partner: Jan Doudlebský
 * July 2008 - PAKISTAN, Karakoram, Charakusa Valley, Kapura Peak - 6200 m a.s.l., Name of the route: Wild Wings, West Peak,NW notch, WI5+ M7, slope 70°, Length of ascent 1300m, Duration of ascent: 3 days, Alpine style, Climbing partner: Jan Doudlebský
 * September - October 2006 - INDIE, Garhwal Himalaya, Mt. Meru - 6310 m a.s.l, Name of the route: Filka's heavenly laugh, NE wall – 7a M5 80°, Duration of ascent 13 days, Alpine style, Length of ascent 2000m, Climbing partner: Jan Kreisinger, Honorable recognition at Golden Piton Awards 2006 (GB)
 * October - November 2005 - NEPAL, Central Himalaya, Kyashar - 6750 m a.s.l., Name of the route: Ramro Chaina, SE wall M6+ WI6, Length of ascent 1900m, Duration of ascent: 5 days to the eastern saddle 6500m n.m., Alpine style, Climbing partner: Jan Doudlebský
 * July - August 2003 - KYRGYZSTAN, Pamir-Alay - 3850 m a.s.l., Name of the route: Otik's Victory (Ochtakurova paběda), N wall 7b A4, Length of ascent: 750m, Duration of ascent: 5 days, Alpine style, Climbing partners: David Šťastný, Otakar Vašek
 * July - August 2002 - KYRGYZSTAN, Pamir-Alay, PIK 4810 – 4810 m a.s.l., Name of the route: Otíkovy mokré sny, NW wall 7b+/7c, Length of ascent: 1200m, Duration of ascent: 8 days, Alpine style, Climbing partners: Václav Šatava, Pavel Jonák
 * July – August 2000 - CHILE, Patagonia, Cerro Paine Grande - 2460 m a.s.l., Name of the route: Makarony Porridge Junction, E wall 7a A3+, Length of ascent: 1300m, Duration of ascent: 8 days, Alpine style, Climbing partners: David Šťastný, Filip Šilhan

Other Ascents

 * August 2016 - PAKISTAN, Eastern Karakoram, Abruzzi Glacier, Gasherbrum I. - 8 080 m n.m., Fourth attempt to first ascent the SW wall, Due to unfavorable weather, we were imprisoned for 8 days at an altitude of 7,700 m n.m., Climbing partner: Ondřej Mandula
 * August 2015 - PAKISTAN, Eastern Karakoram, Abruzzi Glacier, Gasherbrum I. - 8 080 m n.m., Third attempt to first ascent the SW wall, Due to unfavorable weather, we were imprisoned for 6 days at an altitude of 7,400 m n.m., Climbing partner: Tomáš Petreček
 * August 2013 - PAKISTAN, Eastern Karakoram, Abruzzi Glacier, Gasherbrum I. - 8 080 m n.m., Expedition Never Stop Exploring - Gasherbrum I. 8 080 m n. m., Second attempt to first ascent the SW wall, Climbing partner: Zdeněk Hrubý (he died in descent on 7 August 2013)
 * July 2012 - PAKISTAN, Himalaya, Nanga Parbat - 8 125 m a.s.l., Expedition: Wild Choice Comeback - Nanga Parbat 2012, Ascent to the top of „Kinshofer route“, Duration of ascent: 11 days (from 5 800 m Alpine style), Climbing partner: Zdeněk Hrubý
 * July - August 2011 - PAKISTAN, Himalayas, Nanga Parbat - 8 125 m a.s.l., Expedition: Wild Choice - Nanga Parbat 2011, Attempt by Marek Holeček to solo ascent to the top of Nanga Parbatu by the Southern Rupal Wallm, the ascent ends 800 meters below the summit due to the bad weather, Climbing partner: Zdeněk Hrubý
 * February 2010 - ARGENTINA, Andy, Aconcagua - 6 962 m a.s.l., Route "Polish glacier" - right, Climbing partner: Zdeněk Hrubý
 * 2009 - PAKISTAN, Eastern Karakoram, Abruzzi Glacier, Gasherbrum I. - 8 080 m a.s.l., Rute „Japanese swing“ from 1986, NW wall, Vertical rise from BC 2 950 m, Duration of ascent: 4 days, Solo ascent
 * August 2009 - PAKISTAN, Karákóram, Abruzzi Glacier, Gasherbrum I. - 8 068 m n. m., SW wall - attempt to first ascent, Climbing partner: Zdeněk Hrubý
 * January - February 2001 - CHILE, Patagonie, Escudo - 2 600 m a.s.l., Name of route: The Dream, First repetition, E wall, 6b A4+, Length of ascent: 1 200 m, Duration of ascent:20 days, Alpine style, Climbing partners: Tomáš Rinn and Tomáš Sobotka
 * February 1998 - FRANCE, Alps, Grandess Jorases, Name of the route: MacIntyre - Colton, 1976 from Colton/MacIntyre, N wall, ED2 A1 VI/6 90°, Length of ascent: 1 150 m, Duration of ascent: 3 days, Climbing partner: Tomáš Rinn
 * June 1997 - FRANCE, Alps, Grandess Jorases, Name of the route: Manitua 1991 from Svetičič, N wall 7+ A3+ 70°, Length of ascent: 1 150 m, Climbed 6 days, Alpine style, Climbing partner: Tomáš Rinn
 * July 1997 - INDIA, Garhwal, Mt. Meru - 6 310 m a.s.l., N wall, attempt to first ascent, Climbing partner: Filip Šilhan