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Anti-fashion Movement
Anti-fashion movement was a campaign that challenged the style of modern clothing in the 1970s. The youth in this period had a rebellious idea. They used the dressing to express their dissatisfaction with mainstream society. The features such as long hair, T-shirts, flared pants accelerated the neutralization of clothing. The trend of returning to nature also gave birth to the popular trend of pursuing national and folk flavours.

Designers
During this period of time, it appeared many famous designers both from the West and the Eastern countries, mainly in Japan.

Vivienne Westwood

With the emergence of counter-mainstream consciousness, a punk style that catered to people's thoughts emerged in this context. Punk has a great impact on fashion. The well-known designer Vivienne Westwood, who is known as the mother of punk, started her fashion career with punk. The clothes she designed not only have punk's iconic fetish fashion, restraint elements, pins, chains and other punk elements, but also incorporate traditional designs such as Scottish plaid and court ballet. The multi-wavy skirts, ruffled piping, pirate hats, and boots with romantic pirate styles published by Vivienne in her early days immediately pushed her to the stage of international popularity and gained attention. By the mid-1980s, Vivienne began to explore classical and British traditions. By the 1990s Vivienne designed irregular, exaggerated and complicated structures by contrasting and matching different materials and colours, which have become Vivienne's unique style.

Besides Vivienne in the western world, three eastern designers from Japan invaded Europe fashion scene during the 1980s.

Issey Miyake

Issey Miyake is a strong representative of Eastern anti-era designers. The clothes he designs have a distinctive style and are extremely individual, giving the clothing a new aesthetic connotation with unbridled expression. Issey Miyake released his first fashion show in 1971 with great success, and he has since entered the design career of a fashion master.

Rei Kawakubo

Rei Kawakubo is good at using low-chroma fabrics to design clothes. Many of them are designed in the same piece with the same colour of black, which can be said it is Kawakubo's representative colour. In 1981, Rei Kawakubo held her first press conference at the Paris Fashion Show, where she began to attract the attention of the global fashion industry. Then in the following year, her clothing had a simple nickname: the beggar’s outfit; leading to a designing trend of loose, deliberate three-dimensional, broken, asymmetric, and not revealing the shape of the body.

Yohji Yamamoto

For Yohji Yamamoto, the most basic concept of anti-fashion is not to follow the trend. Yohji Yamamoto's designing style has always been unconventional and gender-neutral, such as designing women's clothing according to the concept of men's clothing. He likes to cover women's body shapes with exaggerated proportions, bringing out the androgynous, asexual aesthetic concept. This new dress concept, which runs counter to the mainstream of the West, has not only established itself in the fashion industry but has also influenced Western designers.

Demeulemeester, Maison Martin Margiela and Raf Simons

In addition, designers such as Ann Demeulemeester, Maison Martin Margiela and Raf Simons are all anti-fashion pioneers. During the 1990s, the anti-fashion movement was at its peak; more designers were willing to put themselves out there to question the idealistic beauty and traditional fashion style. One of the original Antwerp sixAnn Demeulemeester debuted her first catwalk show in Paris in 1991, and she was famous for her asymmetry and unbalanced style. Maison Martin Margiela debuted his Salvation Armycollection in 1992; it was a sarcastic reaction towards the overflowing meaningless clothes in the fashion industry. Raf Simons debuted his first menswear collection in 1997 to showcase a sense of rave and the opposite example of traditional men’s fashion. The 1990s is a continuation of the 1980s anti-fashion movement but expanded into different aspects and perspectives.