User talk:Rejelmarie

barking control

Rewarding your dog's barking with attention will make the action stronger. If you'll wait for your dog to stop barking before giving him attention, it will teach him he'll get things if he will quiet first.

Similarly, when your dog acts properly, you should speak to him very pleasantly. Reward him immediately by petting him and by giving him a doggy treat thereby reinforcing the good behavior. However, when your dog misbehaves (such as, eating poop), tell your dog in no uncertain terms that he has done the wrong thing and is a "bad dog."

ibuprofen toxicity

no to ibuprofen products--Once this occurs, the symptoms will be very definitive and very sad to watch as your dog is dying right before your eyes. The first symptom is usually a very sudden increased thirst that will naturally be followed by an increase in urination. This is than followed by severe digestive issues and your dog will not be able to eat. Once these symptoms occur, it is usually rapidly followed by bloody stools, suggestive liver and kidney problems.

Staggering is most likely the next symptom, as the liver and kidney disease is tearing away at your dogs organs, and this is than followed by seizures. Once it reaches the seizure stage, death is usually the final result.

Three percent hydrogen peroxide is very effective in making dogs vomit, and you should always have it on hand for a situation like this. The label will indicate that it is toxic, but for this purpose it is safe, as it will not stay in your dogs body. The correct mixture is one teaspoon per ten pounds of body weight.

If you have an oral syringe, one teaspoon equals 5 cc or 5 ml. Once you have given this to your dog, you will need to either walk them or shake their stomach as this mixes the peroxide and sets it off so to speak. It should start acting with 10 to 15 minutes, so be as patient as you can. However, remember your dog is a dog, and their first instinct will be to eat what they just vomited. By all means stop them, collect the vomit, and take it with you to your veterinarian. This will help them identify the poison.

potty training

Eliminate the risk to your flooring by restricting where your pup may wander. If you allow your pup to play and sleep and enjoy time on carpeted flooring, the chances of it having an accident there are increased. Keeping it on non-porous hard flooring will be much easier for you to clean up and eliminate the odour from that spot. Removing the odour completely will discourage the pup from going there again.

Start the training the moment you get your puppy. Clue everybody in your household in on how it is to be done. If your pup is awake, view that as a time for potential accidents. Someone must keep watch of the pup the entire time. Clues to look for include sniffing an area, circling in that area followed by a squat. If this behaviour happens and you catch it in time (NOT after the action) then you should pick the pup up and take it immediately to it's toilet place. If in fact you have missed the signs and the pup has eliminated on the floor, then you need to smack yourself on the hand and remind yourself that someone must be watching the pup at all times. Do NOT however, smack the pup, yell at the pup and definitely do NOT ever rub your pup's nose in the excrement. Any of these behaviours will frighten your pup and the chances of it being potty trained successfully will be severely hampered

If and when your pup gets it right, go nuts! Tell them they are a very good little girl or boy, even give them a treat. Positive reinforcement is a fabulous way to teach a dog. It will also pave the way for future lessons with your pup down the track.

eating problems

There are other reasons that a dog may stop eating and these have nothing to do with disease.

Let's talk about the serious side first. A dog not eating, particularly if he or she has other symptoms like vomiting or constipation or passing blood in urine may be suffering from one of a number of serious conditions like bloating, liver disease, kidney failure, dental problems or even cancer. All of these require immediate veterinary care as they can all be life threatening.

ideal weight is 9-16 lbs.

If there has been a change in the environment, like a move to a new home or apartment, or even a new eating place within the current home the dog may not have made the adjustment yet. If your dog was normally fed by himself and is now being fed with other animals, or thee reverse, there has been a change in what he or she believes is the normal routine and this might put him or her off her feed. Vaccinations are important but occasionally there are unwanted side effects. If you dog stopped eating shortly after receiving a vaccination, check with your vet and see if that is a known side effect. With older dogs it might be that it simply hurts to eat. There may be problems with the teeth that make it hard to chew. If the dog has developed arthritis in its neck, it may be painful to lean its head down to get the food. In this instance try using a phone book to raise his bowl and see if that makes a difference. Then there is the picky eater. Just like humans, they can be a pain in the butt. You can try mixing up the type of food but the best approach is to simply designate feeding times. The bowl goes down for an hour twice a day and that's it. When the picky eater gets really hungry they'll eat.

So if your dog is not eating try to figure out if it's physically driven or just behavior. If you think there may be an illness behind it seek help from the vet right away. If not, it's just a matter of getting the dog adjusted.

potty training

Small dogs or toy dogs are like dolls or play things, and their owners have the tendency of toting them around and putting them on their laps. Herein lies the problem.

A dog, in general, whether small or big, is a canine with an aggressive nature to be the master of his domain. Whether its his food, his owner or his territory, he has to be the alpha dog. When a small dog places himself on his owner's lap unbeckoned, he is actually displaying hostility; his instinct to be the alpha dog. However, instead of chastising or showing displeasure towards this behavior, his owner cuddles him instead. This act of praising him encourages and develops the aggressive streak in the dog.

This same aggression is displayed when a small dog growls at a larger dog as this clearly shows an act of violence. Unfortunately, the owner, inclined to seeing this as an adorable behaviour, will end up praising the little pooch, instead of correcting it.

Toting a small dog or puppy around, even at home, does not help with house breaking. Owners of these dogs tend to carry their animals to their potty place, then pick them up and carry them back inside the house, which makes it virtually impossible to house break these puppies. There is no way for the dog to inform or show his owner that he has to poop. The dog will also have no way to learn that he has to go to his acceptable pooping place to defecate.

General Info about shitzu

Shih-Tzu's need lots of love and attention to truly thrive. If you work all day, and leave your Shih-Tzu alone for long periods of time, they may become depressed. If there can't be someone at home with your dog, a big stuffed animal can keep it company, just get one without eyes or plastic parts on them, for Shih-Tzu's love to chew, and they could choke. Remember, a Shih-Tzu puppy is just like a baby, they don't know any better until their brain starts to age and your training kicks in along the way. Shih-Tzu's are fast at learning commands, just by a resonating firmness in your voice for "no", or "stop that". Shih-Tzu's respond to the "EE" sound, so if you name them something with e in their name, they will respond faster and listen more when responding to a command where you incorporate their name.

Make sure you have plenty of rawhide bones around, for during the teething stage, they tend to chew at wooden furniture. You can easily train them to stop doing this by introducing them to the bone each time they start to go after the furniture, reprimanding them with your voice firmly. Shih-Tzu's are smart, they learn fast. Puppy pads are the best way to train your new puppy from not urinating all over the house and on the rugs, where permanent stench can ruin your sense of well being. Dogs are drawn to the puppy pads, and you can train them to use them by putting them in the middle of the pad before they begin to urinate. You will know this because Shih-Tzu's squat down; they don't lift their leg up often like the big dogs, though when urinating outside they might.

It is important to keep the hair out of your Shih-Tzu's eyes, for the hair around the face tends to grow faster than the body. Keeping their eyes clean is essential as well. Take a clean cloth or ideally plain, unscented disposable paper towels, wet with warm water, and gently clean your dog's eye area, careful not to poke their eye or press too hard. Repeat with clean wet towel two the three times for each side, until all dirt is wiped away. Shih-Tzu's have sensitive eyes, so this will help to keep them healthy. Some Shih-Tzu's have dry eyes, and may require drops to moisten them. Ask your vet about wetting drops that are preservative free, for preservatives can dry out the eye as well.

It is a good idea to get them spayed 6 months to a year old, only because Shih-Tzu females have a tendency to develop cysts, and spaying helps to alleviate this. They also won't suffer much with their menses, which can be hard for the owner as well. Around this time it is a good idea to cover up your furniture with sheets, for this will prevent staining. A female dogs cycle usually lasts from 4 to 12 days at most, any longer, bring them to the vet for a check up.

Food should be free of preservatives, you can even make your own dog food, consisting of 75 percent pure lean meats, and 25 percent vegetables, like peas, celery, carrots, mixed in. Dogs love turkey, chicken and steak. If you microwave the steak to drain fat, you are giving your dog a healthy alternative to processed fatty meat in dog foods. Just make sure they also eat their dry food every day, for they will get their nutrition from that as well, and it is good for their teeth. Science Diet is a good brand. Also one multi-vitamin per day is good, as well as natural bones for teeth and as a treat.

Play catch with your pet, for Shih-Tzu puppies love to run and chase after cuddly, small stuffed animals. Taking them for regular walks is good exercise as well, just be careful at dog parks, for there are a lot of parasites that your dog can easily pick up. Make sure they have had all their shots first. With proper care, it is easy to take care of your new puppy, they are easier to take care of than real babies, and so if you would rather have a fur baby, a Shih-Tzu is a good alternative! With love, proper care and exercise, your Shih-Tzu will thrive.

Feeding

While your shitzu is still a puppy, he should be fed at least four times a day because he has a small stomach and a high metabolism. As he gets older and his growth and development slow down, you can decrease the feedings to three meals, and later two meals a day. Be sure to consult your veterinarian to be certain this feeding schedule matches your shitzu's needs.

Unless your shitzu is a very active dog, he probably will not require more than one to two meals a day when he is an adult. Ideally the meals should be provided at twelve-hour intervals, or if only one meal is provided, in the early evening, after he has exercised and before bedtime. If all of the food has not been eaten after twenty minutes, remove it. An after dinner stroll before bedtime will help your shitzu sleep more comfortably.

The best way to know if your shitzu is eating the proper amount is to check his overall physical condition. You should be able to feel the ribs, but not see them. Weigh him once a week, if possible, and not less than once a month.

It is important you know the exact age of your Shihtzu puppy when you adopt or purchase him. In most cases, this will not be a problem, but if there is a question, have a veterinarian examine the puppy and give you an age for it. Shihtzu's need to remain on a milk supplement until at least eight weeks. Soft Food First When your Shihtzu has been more or less weaned from milk at around eight weeks of age, you can begin to offer them soft canned puppy food, or a puppy dry food moistened with warm water or milk. This will need to be a staple of their diet for the first eight months of their life. After three months, the puppy food can be fed in dry form or only lightly moistened. Keep in mind, food should be available at all times for the puppy, as they are growing and will need to be able to eat on demand.

Parvo signs and symptoms

• Diarrhea / Loose Stool (sometimes bloody or foul smelling) • Vomiting (more than 2-3X) • Lethargic or Depressed • Not Drinking and possibly not eating much • Temperature of 102+ ( not always) • Tender Tummy

what to do: you can syringe pedialyte orally every 15 minutes for 24 hours... longer than that or if you need sleep then get the fluid bags. This is very draining and you have to be there period. Vet will recommend dosage based on dogs weight. IMPORTANT Do not feed until all vomiting has stopped as this is gut virus and you do not need to upset the gut more.

how to prevent: Every puppy needs its puppy busters no exceptions. Most Vets give these shots (DHLPP) at 6, 9, and 12 weeks. Some Vets may prefer to give them at different ages but this is what i am familiar with. I also recommend getting a 4th one at 15 weeks just to be on the safe side. Remember your puppy is not protected against this virus until he has had all his shots (DHLPP). *It is better to get this shot from a Vet if you purchase it from a feed store make sure it was kept in the frige.

grooming

Shih Tzus are sweet-tempered little dogs that can be a lot of fun to have as pets. Due to their long, luxurious fur coats, however, Shih Tzus need to be groomed a lot to stay healthy and look pretty. Regular Grooming A Shih Tzu's coat must be brushed at least every other day. Ideally, they should be brushed daily. Consequences If a Shih Tzu is not groomed regularly and efficiently, the long hair will tangle and form knots and/or mats. Knots and mats are an easy home for a variety of parasites. If parasites live on the Shih Tzu's skin for too long, skin lesions will occur, causing the dog to be very uncomfortable. A Shih Tzu's Coat A Shih Tzu is considered to have two coats. The outer coat is the one with long straight hair. Beneath it is the second coat that is short and wooly. Both need to be combed regularly. Style After brushing, the groomer should make sure the outer coat falls evenly. The hair on top of the head is usually tied in a tight knot to keep it out of the dog's eyes. The outer coat may be cut shorter for easier maintenance. Tools The tools necessary grooming a Shih Tzu are a brush for the coat, a comb for precision in tougher areas, scissors and nail clippers. Bristle Brush A bristle brush with stiff bristles is one of the most important tools for grooming Shih Tzus. Most of the grooming you do will be with the bristle brush. For a Shih Tzu with a naturally long coat, choose a brush that has widely spaced bristles. You can purchase one at most pet supply stores. Slicker brush Slicker brushes are square or rectangular brushes with fine bristles made of wire. Use them to fluff the Shih Tzu's coat or to remove tangles and mats. Be careful not to brush or jerk a slicker brush too hard, since it can cause a Shih Tzu's fur to break or snarl. Comb Combs are good for removing tangles and snarls on the delicate areas of your Shih Tzu's face. They can also be used to smooth the coat after brushing with a bristle brush. Combs with wide teeth are best for long-haired Shih Tzus. Scissors Use scissors to trim extra hair around your Shih Tzu's eyes and tail. They are also useful for clipping the hair that grows on a Shih Tzu's paws and for removing mats that you can't get out with a comb. Choose scissors with tips that are rounded, rather than pointed, for extra safety. Nail Clippers Nail trimmers are necessary for keeping your Shih Tzu's paws well-groomed. There are several types to choose from, including plier-style trimmers, guillotine-style and electric grinders. Avoid using the latter on your Shih Tzu, since her coat can easily get caught in the grinder.

training shitzu

Shih Tzu puppies are often difficult to housebreak because of their stubbornness. Most owners find that the crate method of training works best for this personality type. Shih Tzu puppies are more easily trained through positive reinforcement of good behaviors rather than harsh punishments for bad behavior, because their personality leads them to want to please the leader of the pack---which, when leadership strategy is properly executed, is the dog's owner.

Feeding Feed your puppy two or three times a day; he should consume about an ounce of food for every pound he weighs. Never leave food out for your puppy to free feed. Exercise Although the Shih Tzu puppy has lower exercise requirements than larger dogs, he does need daily exercise. If daily walking is a problem, throwing a ball or toy in the house for him to fetch will provide exercise and stimulation. Allergies Sensitivity to pet food is a common problem among Shih Tzu. If your puppy is scratching or biting herself excessively, try switching her food to another brand. Be sure to ask your breeder what type food the mother was being fed; typically you can feed your dog the same kind with few issues. Treats Your Shih Tzu puppy will love treats. They are also a good training tool. Giving your puppy the occasional human treat is fine, as long as you stay away from processed foods. Introduce new foods one at a time; that way you can immediately know the cause if your dog has an allergic reaction. Caution Avoid other animals until your puppy has had his second round of immunizations. Until that time, he may be at risk for exposure to disease from infected or carrier dogs.

how to treat fleas using home-mmade product

Slice six lemons in half. Place the lemon halves in a pot of water and bring the mixture to a boil.

Step 2Turn off the heat underneath the pot and allow the lemons to sit in the water for three to four hours. The solution will become more concentrated as it steeps.

Step 3 yellow spray bottle image by Igor Negovelov from Fotolia.com Spray bottles allow you to apply your solution directly to the targeted area.Pour the lemon solution through a strainer and into a spray bottle. Discard the leftover lemon halves.

Step 4Use your homemade flea spray on your pets, taking care not to spray them near the eyes, nose or ears. Spray infested areas, such as carpeting, furniture and bedding. Do not rinse the lemon spray off. Prevent fleas from escaping to non-infested areas by spraying those areas, as well. Lemon is a natural flea repellent and the fleas will not remain where it is sprayed.

Step 5Make another batch of the lemon concentrate and pour into a bucket. Use this solution to wash floors and other areas where fleas are found.

home remedy for fleas and ticks

Implement a plan. Flea and tick control is not a single step process, so you need to devise a plan to tackle the entire problem rather than just a piece of the puzzle. The plan should disrupt as many aspects of the flea and tick life cycle as possible, by killing both adults and the eggs.

Step 2Bathe the animals in the house. Use a mild dish soap and warm water, which will drown and kill the fleas and will also help to eliminate any ticks that might be on the body. Mild dish soap is skin-safe for dogs and cats and not nearly as harsh as commercially available flea shampoos.

Step 3Add garlic to the diet. If you feed garlic to your dogs and cats, it will work as a natural preventative for fleas and ticks. This part of the process will take time to take effect, but over time will play an important role in keeping fleas and ticks from becoming a problem.

Step 4Apply salt to carpets, upholstered furniture and pet bedding. Fleas prefer soft surfaces, and will lay eggs in carpeting and upholstery. Table salt, when applied to the flea eggs, causes them to dry up, which will kill the fleas before they can hatch. Allow the salt to stay on these surfaces for at least 24 hours.

Step 5Clean flooring and bedding. Vacuum off any areas where the pet frequents such as upholstered furniture, carpeting and pet beds after applying the table salt. This will vacuum up the dead fleas and flea eggs. Dispose of the vacuum bag immediately, because there may be live fleas inside. Seal it in another bag and put it outside so that the fleas cannot escape and cause further problems.

Step 6Consider other remedies. Topical flea and tick preventatives are chemical-based, but can play a large role in preventing a flea and tick issue from becoming more serious. You can utilize home remedies without requiring these products, but it is worth considering these commercially available products as part of your step-by-step flea and tick prevention plan.

how to clip a shitzu's nail

Use a high-quality pair of dog toenail clippers. The clippers must be sharp. If you use blunt or poor-quality clippers, they can pull on the toenail and hurt your pup.

Step 2Examine your dog's toenails. In lighter-colored toenails, you should be able to easily spot the quick--the vein which runs through the toenail. It will look like a red or pink line running up the toenail. The quick is more difficult to see in darker-colored toenails. It may appear as a black line in dark toenails.

Step 3Hold one of your Shih Tzu's paws in your hand. Enlist a friend to hold your pup steady while you trim the nails. If you don't have anyone to help, lie your dog on his side.

Step 4Push the hair away from the toenails. Hair will clog the clippers, resulting in an unclean cut.

Step 5Place the clippers over the edge of a toenail. Make sure you keep the clippers above the end of the quick. If you cut the quick, it will bleed and your pup will feel some pain. Position the clippers close to, but not on, the quick.

Step 6Cut the nail. If you are unsure of the quick's location, cut small bits off at a time. When the end of the nail begins to appear slightly pink, you are close to the quick and should stop cutting. On dark-colored toenails, you should stop when the end begins to appear slightly damp or moist.

Step 7Repeat the same process on all your Shih Tzu's toenails. The toenails on the back feet generally grow more slowly than the front so you may not have to clip them as often.

Step 8Sprinkle styptic powder on the toenail if it begins to bleed. This will help to stop the bleeding immediately.

Tips & Warnings Cut your Shih Tzu's toenails weekly to keep them healthy.

how to control a dog's barking?:

Socialize your Shih Tzu. A dog that is confident is less likely to bark. Enroll your Shih Tzu in training classes where she will meet other dogs. Take her to the dog park or other safe environments where she can interact with new people and dogs. If you don't feel comfortable exposing your small dog to larger dogs, arrange for play dates with other well-behaved Shih Tzus or small breed dogs.

Step 2Take your Shih Tzu for daily walks. Excessive barking can be caused by boredom and pent-up energy. Your Shih Tzu needs both the mental stimulation and energy-burning benefits of a daily walk.

Step 3Reward good behavior. According to an article by Dog Obedience Advice, Shih Tzus respond best to positive training. When your dog is exhibiting the quiet behavior you want, reward him with a treat and say something like "good quiet" or "good, no barking." Conversely, avoid giving your dog attention when he is barking.

Step 4Be the leader in your pack. While one of the benefits of having an alert dog is that they will warn us when something is amiss, we do not want them to think they are the only one in the house paying attention. When your Shih Tzu barks, take the time to check out the situation. He will be more confident and quieter when he knows you're in charge.

Step 5Create a safe environment for your Shih Tzu. The American Shih Tzu Club states that Shih Tzus are bred for companionship. This indicates that they are not the kind of dog that can stay outside all day by themselves. If your Shih Tzu spends every day alone, excessive barking can be an indicator that she is lonely or fearful. If you can not rearrange your schedule to spend more time with your Shih Tzu, consider hiring a dog walker to check on her once or twice a day.

how to remove urine odor using a vinegar

Step 1Soak up the urine. The less urine remaining on the surface, the less deodorizing you will have to do. Place a washcloth on top of the urine and allow the cloth to soak up as much liquid as possible.

Step 2Fill a measuring cup with half a cup of vinegar, then add another 1 1/2 cups of warm water.

Step 3Stir the concoction with a spoon, and saturate the urine stain with this mixture. Don't worry if you have more of your solution than seems necessary--use the entire contents of the measuring cup on the stain.

Step 4Let the mixture sit for five minutes on the urine stain.

Step 5Soak up the vinegar and water mixture with a washcloth. You may need more than one washcloth to absorb up as much wetness as possible.

Step 6Pour baking soda onto the area and allow to dry. Baking soda is a powerful deodorizer when paired with vinegar. Deodorization of the area is important so the dog will not smell his scent and urinate in the same area again.

Step 7Vacuum the baking soda to complete the removal of the dog urine odor and stain.

sleep training

Put your dog in its kennel each night at the same time before you go to bed. The animal will eventually get used to this routine and recognize that it's not playtime anymore. He will begin to associate the kennel with quiet time and sleep. Let the dog outside to go potty before putting him in the kennel, as this reduces the chance of accidents.

Step 2 alarm clock image by AGphotographer from Fotolia.com Use an alarm to help your dog recognize when it's time to get up.Set an alarm clock for a time that you find acceptable to get up each morning. Getting up at the same time every day is good for your dog as well as for you. Set the alarm for a time that you won't mind getting up, even on the weekends. Ignore your dog if she gets up before the alarm--don't talk to her, acknowledge that she's there or even tell her to be quiet. This reinforces the fact that it is not time to get up yet.

Step 3 dog biscuits image by Greg Pickens from Fotolia.com Use doggy dental bones for a healthier snack.Treat your dog to doggy biscuits or a nice walk when it is time to get up. This reinforces good behavior if the dog knows it has done something good. Your dog will soon realize that he will be rewarded if he does as he is told.

Step 4 dog walk image by jeancliclac from Fotolia.com Walk your dog every day.Walk your dog every day, just after dinner. Exercise is good for your animal and it will help your dog stay calmer if she is taken out at the same time every day. Walking is a good way to exhaust your pup so that she is nice and tired when it's time to go to bed. Your dog may even sleep longer because of the exercise.

Tips & Warnings Do not rile up the dog before bed. Logically, it makes sense to tire the animal out before bedtime, but an animal recognizes it as playtime and not as a way to calm down.Do not reward bad behavior. If your dog starts to bark before the alarm, don't give him treats.

vaccination guidelines

Talk to your vet about the vaccine schedule he or she recommends for both puppies and adult dogs. Where you live may determine which vaccines your dog needs. Puppies six weeks old and younger should not be vaccinated. The mother's milk gives immunity to young puppies and vaccines given too early will be ineffective.

The links below contain the American Veterinary Association's statement on vaccines and a responsible vaccination schedule.

Step 2Nursing and sick dogs should not be vaccinated. Wait until they are done with nursing or are healthy. Vaccinations should never be given at the same time as any surgical procedure.

Some dogs, especially puppies, toy dogs and certain breeds are susceptible to a short-lived vaccine reaction which may include swelling, listlessness and unwillingness to eat. Usually this confers no lasting harm but let your vet know if you notice anything unusual after a vaccination.

Step 3Most vets will agree that certain vaccines are necessary and worth any risk. There are called core vaccines and are parvovirus, distemper, rabies and adenovirus. Rabies is also mandated by law in most parts of the US. Puppies receive two or three series of the core vaccinations, with rabies given once at three to six months of age then boostered at one year. A distemper and parvo booster at one year of age is usually recommended. Thereafter distemper should be given no more than every three years and rabies as legally required.

Studies on most vaccines show them conferring immunity for many years and often for the life of the dog.

Step 4Non-core vaccines include coronavirus, leptospirosis and bordatella (kennel cough.) These are not a concern for many dogs and lepto in particular is implicated in many adverse reactions.

Remember that no vaccination is 100% effective and even vaccinated dogs may catch what they were vaccinated against.

Step 5Dogs with chronic health conditions and severe allergies should definitely not be overvaccinated because it can overstimulate the immune response and cause more complications.

Step 6Ask your vet about blood titers instead. The vet will draw a small amount of blood and have it laboratory checked for levels of immunity against all contagious diseases. Most training schools and kennels will accept proof of immunity through titers instead of proof of vaccination.

Step 7Not giving annual "boosters" should not mean you don't take your pet in for an annual vet check up! Your dog should be wellness checked by the vet every year. If heartworms are a concern where you live, an annual blood test for that is recommended. If you have a senior dog your vet may recommend a basic blood screening to check for underlying disease. Depending on your dog's age and diet, he could need teeth cleaning. Visit your vet to monitor your dog's health and condition because your dog can't tell you when he isn't feeling quite right!

Tips & Warnings Develop a good working relationship with your vet and bring concerns or questions up during visits. A good vet stays current on research and has your pet's best interest in mind.Some websites advise against ALL vaccinations and recommend herbal supplements instead. Do educate yourself and be wary of miracle claims particularly on websites that are selling supplements, books and so on.

Dog Vaccination Schedule for Puppy's First Year Your new puppy definitely needs a series of vaccinations in the first year of life to protect him from many dangerous diseases as his doggy immune system

develops. Different veterinarians recommend slightly different vaccination schedules and vaccines according to the specific dog’s risk factors.

Your vet can be more specific about the vaccination needs based on your individual dog, the particular region of the country in which you live, and your individual circumstances. In general, however, the first-year vaccination schedule for puppies usually resembles the schedule in the table here.

http://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/dog-vaccination-schedule-for-puppys-first-year.html

Getting your adult dog vaccinated may be more controversial than you think. Some people, including many vets, believe adult pets are overvaccinated and think that too many vaccinations pose health risks. Others believe vaccinations should be performed yearly to keep dangerous diseases like distemper from getting a hold on the pet population like they did in decades past.

Your adult dog may not need annual vaccinations and can instead have titer tests — tests that check a dog’s immunity levels — to determine exactly which vaccinations are needed. One exception is the rabies vaccine, which is regulated by law and may be required every one to three years, depending on where you live and the type of rabies vaccine the vet uses

other info for vaccination

If you have a very young puppy, there are several shots it should get. These puppy shots are also called five in one or DHLP-P vaccinations because they are a combination vaccine that will immunize against five very common but potentially deadly diseases. After the puppy has had it's first shots and the boosters, then it will not need to be inoculated again for another year, with the exception of the Rabies vaccine, which sometimes is given every 3 years (depending on the kind given).

The key to not over inoculating is to test if the dog has the antibodies to protect them from disease. The unfortunate thing is, the test (called a Titer Test) can cost as much as three times the cost of the vaccine, and should the test come back saying that your dog does not have the antibodies, then you'll have to pay the cost of the vaccine on top of the Titer Test fee.

I recommend that you learn more about vaccines in order to decide with your Vet what's best for your dog. Ask your Vet about Titers, which are tests that can be used to monitor levels of antibodies remaining in your dog. If your dog shows adequate titers, there should be no reason to vaccinate.

how to brush dog's teeth

How to Brush Your Dog’s Teeth 4 of 7 in Series: The Essentials of Dog Grooming Dogs don’t get cavities the way humans do, but they can develop plaque, tartar, and gingivitis — all of which contribute to foul breath and tooth problems. Trips to the veterinarian can be costly, so it pays to do periodic brushing yourself. (Although if your dog has lots of tartar buildup, a visit to the vet is in order.)

How often you brush your dog's teeth depends on your pet and on your motivation factor — although every day is good, once or twice a week is adequate.

Never use human toothpaste on a dog. Human toothpastes generally contain fluoride, which is poisonous to dogs. As they can’t rinse and spit, they swallow everything you put on their teeth.

1Squeeze some doggie toothpaste onto a special finger toothbrush made for pets and allow your dog to lick some of it off. You can use a human toothbrush, but it isn’t as good as a finger toothbrush.

Doggie toothpaste — never use your own! — is flavored with malt, chicken, or some other yummy flavor that dogs can’t resist. It makes the experience a little more enjoyable. (Imagine your dentist offering to clean your teeth with chocolate! Yum!)

Enlarge2Flip up your dog’s lip and gently rub the toothbrush and toothpaste against her teeth and gums for a few seconds. Don’t let your dog give you any lip when you brush her teeth; hold it out of the way.

3Give your dog a treat, even if she allows you to work on her for just a few seconds. She'll remember the experience far more fondly if reward is offered.

4Repeat Steps 1 through 3 the next day on a different part of the mouth. You can gradually lengthen the amount of time spent brushing.

Some people like to purchase a dental scalar, a device used to scrape away plaque from dogs’ teeth. Unfortunately, if you’re not careful, you can injure your dog’s gums, not to mention make one unhappy pooch. That form of teeth-cleaning is better left to your vet, especially when your dog has a lot of tartar and buildup and big teeth!

Assembling a First-Aid Kit for Your Dog

http://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/assembling-a-firstaid-kit-for-your-dog.html

vaccinations from wikipedia

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vaccination_of_dogs

grooming shitzu

Wash your shih tzu every three to eight weeks. The frequency of your washings will depend on your environment as well as the length of your dog's coat. Longer-haired shih tzus require more frequent washings as do those that spend a good deal of time outdoors.

Step 2Use a shampoo and conditioner designed for dogs when you bathe your shih tzu. While many dogs simply require shampoo, conditioner will help to keep your shih tzu's coat free of tangles. Make sure you rinse both the shampoo and conditioner completely out of your dog's coat. If left behind, the residue can lead to skin irritations.

Step 3Wipe your dog's face with a damp cloth after every meal. Due to their short snouts, it's common for food to lodge itself around a shih tzu's mouth. Clean your pup's mouth area after every feeding to prevent health issues caused by rotten food particles.

Step 4Brush your shih tzu daily. If you do not brush your shih tzu's coat, it will tangle. The tangles can cause pain, hot spots and even parasites to reside on your shih tzu's skin. Use a brush and comb to untangle the dog's entire coat. In addition to the body of the dog, brush his face, neck, ears, legs, feet, tail and belly. If you keep your dog's coat clipped short, you can lighten this brushing schedule to every few days.

Step 5Trim your dog's nails every four to 10 weeks. Some dogs' nails grow more quickly than others and require more frequent clippings. Use nail clippers designed to trim dogs' toenails and cut them after a bath as they will be softer then. Avoid cutting the quick, the red vein inside the nail. If you do, it will bleed.

Step 6Brush your shih tzu's teeth once to twice a week, using a toothbrush and toothpaste designed for dogs. Shih tzus are particularly susceptible to plaque and periodontal diseases, so good oral hygiene is essential. Feed your dog hard, dry food rather than soft, canned food to keep teeth healthier.

Step 7Check your dog's ears for swelling or redness, as shih tzus are prone to ear infections. Observe your pup's eyes to ensure they are free of irritation, clouding or debris.

Step 8Trim the hair around your pup's face every few months. You may need to enlist the help of a friend who can hold your dog's face still while you trim the hair in this delicate area. You want the eyes, nose and mouth to be free of excessive hair so your dog can see, eat and breathe without obstruction. If you prefer, you can secure the hair over your dog's eyes into a ponytail, securing it with a dog clip or band.

Step 9Clean your shih tzu's anus with a moist cloth every two to three weeks. Fecal matter often attaches itself to the hair around the anus, resulting in blockages and discomfort for your dog. Remove dried fecal matter with a warm, damp cloth.

Tips & Warnings Maintain a regular grooming schedule to avoid serious issues with your shih tzu's coat.Never yank or pull a tangle. This can cause your dog extreme pain and lead to seriously damaged

types of combs and brushes

Types of Brushes

Soft Bristled Brush - This kind of brush works best for short-coated dog. This brush won't damage the skin when it makes contact and is perfect for removing dead hair. When you are brushing your dog with these soft bristles, it helps spread the skin's natural oils, which makes the coat shinier and healthier.

Slicker Brush - Probably the most common dog brush. It can be used on any coat. It works well on the long curly coats to help work out tangles or dead hair and is also good to use on a soft-coated dog to help keep the straight silky hair real soft and shiny. The slicker brush has a wooden handle and flat rectangular back, with rows of bristles that are slightly bent at the top. These are 'pokey' bristles, so care must be taken not to injury the dogs skin.

Pin Brush - Best for a thick-coated dog or a long wavy coat. This brush has thicker wire pins, resembling 'straight pins'. This is a very 'pokey' brush. It's used to go deeper into the hair to pull out the 'under-coat' that causes matting and to pull out dead hair. Use care with this brush. Don't rack it across the dogs skin, as it will hurt.

Types of Stripper Combs

Shedding Comb - Used for thick-coated dogs. There are different styles. This comb usually has a thick rounded handle, and looks like a regular comb, except that it has long teeth with short teeth alternating in between the long ones. You can use this comb to untangle hair, remove debris and loose dead hair.

German Mat Comb - This is another stripper comb. This is a stainless steel comb with 9 stainless steel serrated blades with blunted ends for safety, and a tapered wooden handle. This comb slices through any matted and tangled hair easily.

Undercoat Rake Comb - Another stripping comb. This is called a rake comb because, as you may have already guessed, it resembles a mini rake. The rake comb has thick medal teeth that grab the undercoat and pulls it out easily. This comb is especially good for breeds with thick heavy undercoats.

Shedding Blade - Another style of stripper combs. This tool was designed to remove dead hair, which reduces shedding. The shedding blade can be use on either short coats or on thick-coated dogs. It has a 6" long oval blade with tiny teeth all around the oval shape.

Other Types of Combs

Steel Comb - This comb is a high-quality grooming comb. Used a lot by handlers in the ring for the last minute touch-ups. It's a sturdy 7" comb that is rust resistant and is also easy to disinfect. It has rounded teeth, which makes it glide through the coat without irritating the skin. It lifts and removes tangles and any dead hair.

Flea Comb - Now we have a comb that people hope they never have to use. It's the dreaded flea comb. This may have a plastic or wooden handle on top of very closely-knit row of medal teeth, or can be made of all plastic. As you comb through your dogs hair, it forces the fleas and eggs up between the tight rows of teeth. It's best to do this outside and have soapy water to drown the fleas in

bathing a shitzu

On average, Shih Tzu puppies need to be bathed every six weeks. If their coats are being kept short in a "puppy clip," then they will need their fast-growing coats clipped about every six weeks, and they will need to be bathed before the trimming can begin. According to the Shih Tzu Club, the longer the coat is kept, the more baths are needed. Time Frame According to "The KISS Guide to Raising a Puppy," all puppies are most impressionable when they are eight to 12 weeks old. This is the best time to give a Shih Tzu puppy the first introduction to the tub and then a first full bath. Introduction Since a bath is a long procedure and small Shih Tzu puppies have short attention spans, first get the get puppy used to sitting or standing in the tub or basin. Later, fill the tub with a small bit of water and let the puppy get used to how that feels. Full Bath The first full bath with shampoo should be after the Shih Tzu is three months old. Bring everything to the tub to make the bath as short as possible so the puppy will not begin to get upset. Full Coat Shih Tzus kept in long show coats need to be bathed every two weeks, unless they get very dirty somehow in a shorter amount of time. They will always need brushing and combing every day. Considerations Only bathe a Shih Tzu puppy when the coat is dirty or smelly, which can mean every two to eight weeks, considering the puppy's coat length and environment. Too much bathing can lead to dry, itchy skin.

how to bathe a shitzu

Step 1Select the location where you would like to bathe your dog: either the tub or the sink is best. I usually use the bath tub, so the dog has a little room to move around if she wants.

Step 2Run the bath water. Make sure it is not too hot and not too cold. It should be a nice medium warm temperature. It is helpful to squirt a little dog shampoo into the water to make it sort of a bubble bath. I think it also gets my dog cleaner. Turn the water off when the desired amount of water is acheived.

Step 3Now go find your dog. It may be hiding under the bed if it know you are fixing to give it a bath (thats what mine does). Take any bows out of dogs hair and remove the dog's collar. Now place the dog into the water.

Step 4Take plastic cup and pour water all over dog, completely saturating dog's fur with the water making sure you also get the fur on its face. Now put shampoo on the dog and rub in using long strokes. Put small amount on hands and rub onto dogs face around mouth, but make sure you don't get it into the dog's eyes.

Step 5Now use the plastic cup again to rinse the dog off. You might want to use fresh water to do this instead of the water the dog has been sitting in.

Step 6Now take the dog out of the water and wrap her in a couple of towels. Carry her like a baby to the couch and get your comb.

Step 7Comb the dog's facial fur first, which includes around her mouth, under her eyes, on top of the head, and the ears. This would be the best time to put a bow in the dog's hair if desired also.

Step 8Now unwrap the dog from the towels and let run around for a few minutes. They love this. Then get the dog and comb or brush through the rest of the hair. A blow dryer can be used at this time or its hair can air dry.

Step 9You have successfully bathed your dog. Now all you have to do is clean up!

Tips & Warnings Be Careful.Don't slip on water.Don't get bite by dog.

how to take care of shitzu puppies

Select a high-quality dog food formulated for small-breed puppies. Shih Tzu puppies require food with higher protein and fat content that larger puppies, and higher concentrations of Omega 3s in small-breed puppy food will keep their unique coat healthy and shiny. Follow the feeding guidelines on the food bag to ensure proper nutrition for your puppy. Keep a small bowl of fresh clean water available to your Shih Tzu puppy at all times.

Step 2Remove any ingestible objects from areas your Shih Tzu puppy roams. Get down on its level and look for anything your puppy might try to pick up, including loose carpet strings or dropped earrings.

Step 3Provide your Shih Tzu puppy with size-appropriate toys to keep it happy and entertained. Puppies adore both soft fluffy toys and solid rubber toys to exercise their growing jaws and keep them occupied. Look for rubber toys specifically made for small-breed dogs as your Shih Tzu's jaw is not nearly as strong as those of larger breeds.

Step 4Introduce your Shih Tzu puppy to grooming immediately. Begin with a light combing or brushing for a few minutes and work your way up to once-daily brushings to maintain a healthy, shiny and tangle-free coat. Because of the hair-like nature of your Shih Tzu's coat and its lack of shedding, matting and tangling can quickly become a problem for an ungroomed Shih Tzu. Caring for a Shih Tzu puppy's coat must be part of your daily routine.

Step 5Create a quiet area for your Shih Tzu puppy to retire to when it becomes tired or overwhelmed. Place a small soft dog bed and a favorite toy in the area to reinforce the feeling of a respite for your puppy. Shih Tzu's can succumb to hypoglycemia (low blood sugar) if not provided adequate sleep time to rejuvenate.

Step 6Walk your Shih Tzu puppy in the yard every two hours while it is young to allow it adequate bathroom time and encourage supervised exploration. Shih Tzu's have very small bladders that require frequent emptying.

Tips & Warnings Proper care of your Shih Tzu puppy includes allowing it to sleep whenever it feels tired, so make sure all family members know to leave the puppy alone when it is in its quiet area.Avoid the temptation to bathe

Confine your puppy to a small, 'puppy-proofed' room and paper the entire floor.

Put his bed, toys and food/water bowls there. At first there will be no rhyme or

reason to where your pup eliminates. He will go every where and any where. He will

also probably play with the papers, chew on them, and drag them around his little

den.

Most puppies do this and you just have to live with it. Don't get upset; just

accept it as life with a young puppy. The important thing is that when you get

home, clean up the mess and lay down fresh papers.

Passive House Training or Paper Training

While your puppy is confined, he is developing a habit of eliminating on paper

because no matter where he goes, it will be on paper. As time goes on, he will

start to show a preferred place to do his business. When this place is well

established and the rest of the papers remain clean all day, then gradually reduce

the area that is papered.

Start removing the paper that is furthest away from his chosen location.

Eventually you will only need to leave a few sheets down in that area only. If he

ever misses the paper, then you've reduced the area too soon. Go back to papering

a larger area or even the entire room.

Once your puppy is reliably going only on the papers you've left, then you can

slowly and gradually move his papers to a location of your choice. Move the papers

only an inch a day. If puppy misses the paper again, then you're moving too fast.

Go back a few steps and start over. Don't be discouraged if your puppy seems to be

making remarkable progress and then suddenly you have to return to papering the

entire room. This is normal. There will always be minor set-backs. If you stick

with this procedure, your puppy will be paper trained.

House Training When You Are Home

When you are home but can't attend to your puppy, follow the same procedures

described above. However, the more time you spend with your puppy, the quicker he

will be house trained. Your objective is to take your puppy to his toilet area

every time he needs to eliminate. This should be about once every 45 minutes; just

after a play session; just after eating or drinking; and just upon waking.

When he does eliminate in his toilet area, praise and reward him profusely and

enthusiastically! Don't use any type of reprimand or punishment for mistakes or

accidents. Your puppy is too young to understand and it can set the house training

process back drastically.

Don't allow your puppy freedom outside of his room unless you know absolutely for

sure that his bladder and bowels are completely empty. When you do let him out,

don't let him out of your sight. It is a good idea to have him on leash when he is

exploring your home. He can't get into trouble if you are attached to the other

end of the leash.

Every 30 minutes return your pup to his toilet area. As your puppy becomes more

reliable about using his toilet area and his bowel and bladder control develops,

he can begin to spend more time outside his room with you in the rest of your

home. Begin by giving him access to one room at a time. Let him eat, sleep and

play in this room but only when he can be supervised. When you cannot supervise

him, put him back in his room.

Active House Training

The most important thing you can do to make house training happen as quickly as

possible is to reward and praise your puppy every time he goes in the right place.

The more times he is rewarded, the quicker he will learn. Therefore it's important

that you spend as much time as possible with your pup and give him regular and

frequent access to his toilet area.

The Key To Successful House Training

Consistency and Patience. Never scold or punish your puppy for mistakes and

accidents. The older your pup gets, the more he will be able to control his

bladder and bowels. Eventually your pup will have enough control that he will be

able to "hold it" for longer and longer periods of time. Let your puppy do this on

his own time. When training is rushed, problems usually develop. Don't forget,

most puppies are not reliably house trained until they are at least 6 months old.

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Dogs and Puppies Must Learn to Inhibit Biting First of all, dogs must learn to inhibit their bite before they are 4 months old.

Normally, they would learn this from their mother, their littermates and other

members of the pack. But, because we take them away from this environment before

this learning is completed, we must take over the training.

Socialization Prevents Biting By allowing your puppy to socialize with other puppies and socialized dogs they

can pick up where they left off. Puppies need to roll, tumble and play with each

other. When they play, they bite each other everywhere and anywhere. This is where

they learn to inhibit their biting. This is where they learn to control

themselves.

If they are too rough or rambunctious, they will find out because of how the other

dogs and puppies react and interact with them. This is something that happens

naturally and it is something we cannot accomplish. It can only be learned from

trial and error. There is nothing you can say or do to educate them in this realm.

They must learn from their own experience.

Socialization Prevents Biting Another major advantage of dog to dog socialization besides the fact that it will

help your dog to grow up not being fearful of other dogs is that they can vent

their energy in an acceptable manner. Puppies that have other puppies to play with

do not need to treat you like littermates. So the amount of play biting on you and

your family should dramatically decrease. Puppies that do not play with other

puppies are generally much more hyperactive and destructive in the home as well.

Lack of Socialization Causes Biting A major cause of biting is lack of socialization. Lack of socialization often

results in fearful or aggressive behavior. The two major reactions a dog has to

something it is afraid of are to avoid it or to act aggressive in an attempt to

make it go away. This is the most common cause of children being bitten. Dogs that

are not socialized with children often end up biting them.

The optimum time to socialize is before the dog reaches 4 months. With large breed

dogs, 4 months may be too late, simply because at this age the puppy may already

be too large for most mothers of young children to feel comfortable around. For

most owners, the larger the dog is, the more difficult it is to control,

especially around children. If there is anything you do not want your dog to be

afraid of or aggressive towards, you must begin to socialize your puppy with them

before 4 months of age.

Trust and Respect Inhibits Biting There are many other reasons your dog will bite and you will have to take an

active role in teaching them. However, before you can teach your dog anything,

there are two prerequisites that are essential. They are trust and respect. If

your dog doesn't trust you, there is no reason why he should respect you. If your

dog does not respect you, your relationship will be like two 5 year olds bossing

each other around. If your dog does not trust and respect you, then when you

attempt to teach your dog something, he will regard you as if he were thinking,

"Who do you think you are to tell me what to do?"

Use of Reprimands and Biting Never hit, kick or slap your dog. This is the quickest way to erode the dog's

trust in you. Yes, he will still love you. Even abused dogs love their owners. A

unique characteristic of dogs is their unconditional love. You don't have to do

anything to acquire your dog's love. But you must do a lot to gain your dog's

trust and respect. Another area where we destroy our dog's trust in us is when we

scold or punish them for housesoiling mistakes and accidents. When housetraining

your puppy, there is never an appropriate time to punish or reprimand. If you

catch your dog in the act, just head for the towels and cleaner. You have no right

to scold him, because if he is going in the wrong place, it is your fault, not

his. If you find an accident after the fact, just clean it up.

Summary Tips on Biting 1. Reprimand alone will never stop biting. 2. If no respect exists, the biting will get worse. If you act like a littermate,

the dog will treat you as one. 3. If trust is not there, the dog may eventually bite out of fear or lack of

confidence. 4. Inconsistency sabotages training. If you let the dog bite some of the time,

then biting will never be completely eliminated. 5. Don't forget follow up. The dog must understand that it is the biting that you

don't like, not the dog itself. Make up afterwards, but on your terms, not the

dog's.

Most owners wait until a bite just "happens to occur" before trying to deal with

it and are therefore totally unprepared when it happens - and do all the wrong

things, thus making the problem worse.

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BARKING CONTROL

Dogs who are socially isolated or confined for long periods without supervised

exercise need some outlet for their pent-up energy. A dog who is left alone all

day is likely to take up barking as a hobby because no one is there to control

him. In no time at all, barking becomes an enjoyable habit. And for many dogs,

once they start barking, they tend to continue barking for the sheer fun of it.

Your dog may be barking excessively because you unintentionally trained her to do

so. Poochie speaks and you obey. "Woof" and you open the door to let puppy out.

"Woof" and you open it again to let her in. "Woof" and she gets a treat, "woof"

for a tummy-rub. . . you get the picture. Your dog has learned to get attention

through barking. It is easy to fall into this trap because the very nature of

barking gets your attention. For the same reason, it is easy to forget to praise

and reward your dog when she is not barking.

Barking and Walkies! The first step in obtaining peace and quiet is to realize that lots of barking is

caused by the dog being lonely, bored, frustrated or frightened. These are all

situations that you can help to alleviate. A well-exercised, happy dog is more

likely to sleep all day while you are not home. Spend time playing with, training

and exercising your dog.

Obedience training is great mental exercise. Thinking is a tiring activity for

dogs, as it is for humans. Most dogs really enjoy a rapid paced, exciting "game"

of Come here, sit, heel, sit, heel, down, stay. . . come here for hugs, a

massage, a celebration of praise and treats. Don't allow training to be a boring,

tedious routine.

If your dog lives in the back yard most of the time, she probably needs "social

exercise." She needs walks around the neighborhood, so she can investigate all the

sounds and smells that tantalize her while she is in the yard. Bring her into the

house when you are home. She needs to feel that she is part of your family. Having

a large yard is not equal to having a well exercised dog. You may see your dog

dashing madly around your yard, but he is not exercising. He is doing the doggy

equivalent of pacing, fidgeting, or other human forms of nervous activity. Provide

your dog with fun things with which to occupy himself, such as a digging pit or

special chew toys.

Dogs are social animals. They need friends and companionship. Take your dog to the

same dog park daily or weekly and let her make doggy friends. Dogs romping around

and playing together tire rapidly and will sleep happily while recovering from the

good, hardy play session.

Nuisance Barking Until you have re-trained your dog about her barking habits, she should be

confined to a place where she will cause the least disturbance. Closing the drapes

will help muffle the noise for the neighbors. In addition, confining the dog to

the back of the house (away from the street) will keep disturbances to a minimum.

Leave a radio playing to mask noises from the street. You may also want to have

disconnect switches on the telephone and doorbell if these set off a barking

spree.

"Stop Barking" It's no wonder people have barking problems with their dogs. Most dogs have no

clue as to whether barking is something good or something bad. Sometimes when the

dog barks, he is ignored (owner in a jolly mood). Other times, the dog is

encouraged (owner sees suspicious stranger outside the house). And yet other

times, the dog is yelled at (owner has a headache). Humans are consistently

inconsistent. In order to help your dog know your rules, teach him what they are.

Here is a good rule to start with: Barking is OK until the dog is told to "Stop

Barking." Think of "Stop Barking" as an obedience command rather that simply an

unpredictable reprimand. Each time your dog barks, after two or three woofs,

praise her for sounding the alarm. Then tell her, "Stop Barking." Simultaneously,

waggle an especially tasty food treat in front of her nose.

Most dogs instantly stop barking because they can't sniff and lick the treat while

barking. During this quiet time praise her continuously - - "Good girl, stop

barking, what a good quiet dog you are, good dog. . ." After 3 seconds of no

barking, let her have the treat. The next time she barks, require her to stop

barking for 5 seconds before she gets the treat. Each time she is told to stop

barking and succeeds, she will be rewarded.

If she barks even one little wooflet after you've given the command, scold her

immediately. Timing is everything. As training proceeds, the required period of

silence is increased gradually; at first "Stop Barking" means: No barking for the

next 3 seconds, then 5 seconds, then 10 seconds and so on. Within a single

training session, you can teach your dog to stop barking for up to 1 or 2 minutes.

This is major progress, because whatever set off her barking in the first place is

history, and she is likely to be quiet until the next disturbance.

The Consequences of Barking When your dog stays quiet for the required period of time after you've asked her

to please, "Stop Barking," she is rewarded. When she makes a mistake, your

unsuspecting poochie's very next wooflet should be met with a cataclysmic,

earthshaking 120 decibel "STOP BARKING!!!" Most dogs are so totally shocked and

amazed by this horrendous outburst that they will stare at you in disbelief (and

silence). If this outburst makes your dog more excited, then you might try an

ice-cold I-mean-business tone of voice. Sometimes a splash of water in the face

will do the trick. You must find something that will instantly make your dog stop

barking. As soon as your dog stops barking, even for just a tenth of a second, you

must immediately and instantly reward her. After enough repetitions your dog will

learn the meaning of the command, "Stop Barking," and you will no longer need your

training props (water, treats, etc.)

Substituting the Barking Habit If your dog's excessive barking has already become a habit, don't expect the

barking to get under control overnight. It takes weeks of repetition to replace an

old habit with a new one. If you keep up with these procedures, you will see a new

pattern of barking develop. Instead of barking relentlessly at the insignificant,

your dog will be barking appropriately and for a reasonable length of time. It is

important that you maintain this new good habit through practice and praise or

your dog may revive his old annoying barking habits again.

_________________________________________________________________________________

Training Puppy to Accept a Collar Young pups are often bewildered or unsure of themselves and their newly acquired

leash and collar. It usually takes only a few hours for a pup or even an adult dog

to adjust to a collar. Choose a collar that fits comfortably but securely. Choke

collars are a training aid and should never be used as a substitute for a regular

buckle type collar. The collar should have an identification tag and license

attached.

Simply put the collar on the dog and let him jump, squirm, roll and paw at it if

he wishes. Don't encourage the behavior by laughing or trying to soothe him. Do

not reprimand him either. It's best to just ignore him and let him get used to it

or provide some distraction to get his mind off the collar. Play, training and

eating work well to get the pup's mind off the collar. Once the dog accepts it, he

won't even know it's there. It's similar to a person getting used to wearing a

ring or watch for the first time.

Training Puppy to Accept a Leash Once your pup accepts the collar, put his leash on and then just sit and watch.

Obviously, do this indoors or in a secure confined area. Let puppy drag the leash

around on his own but keep a close eye on him so that he doesn't tangle or get

hurt. Leave it on for just a few minutes at first. Later, repeat the exercise for

longer periods of time. Put your pup on leash during mealtimes, so he associates

the leash with a pleasant event. If he is very fearful of the leash, you may want

to put it next to the food bowl for a while before attaching it to his collar.

Eventually he will see that no harm is coming and there indeed is nothing to be

afraid of.

When you are sure he is completely comfortable walking around with the leash on,

pick up the other end for a few minutes. Do not try walking him yet. Just hold

onto the other end and let him lead you around. Try not to get into a position

that will make him pull or strain on the leash or he will probably become afraid

of it again. If he sits down, that is okay. You just sit down too. Try backing up

and enticing him to come towards you. If he hesitates, don't pull or drag him by

the leash. Try luring him over to you with a food treat or toy. When he starts to

walk, praise him profusely so he knows how happy you are. Give him lots of time to

get used to his leash and always try to make it a pleasant experience.

Give your pup lots of practice getting used to walking on leash in his own home,

since it is a familiar environment with minimal distractions. When he is

comfortable indoors, try going outdoors. Again, begin in an area with few

distraction such as your front or back yard. When the two of you have mastered

this, you are ready for places where there are more distractions. This exercise

won't be difficult, since you've both had lots of practice beforehand at getting

it right.

If your pup is biting and chewing the leash, try applying bitter apple, Tabasco or

some other unpleasant tasting (but nontoxic) substance to the leash. Reapply

before every outing.

Remember to always walk your dog on-leash. A dog off-leash is always in danger;

accidents happen very quickly. Your dog's safety as well as compliance with your

local leash law, is your responsibility.

Training Puppy to Climb Stairs If your dog is afraid of stairs, or simply does not know how to climb them, then

begin slowly to build her confidence. Start off at the bottom of a flight of

steps. A wide, shallow stairway will probably be least frightening for your dog.

Go up one step; encourage and lure your dog up with your voice, a food treat or a

toy. When she is successful, give her lots of reward and praise. Then go back down

that same step. Repeat only one step over and over until your dog goes up and down

with ease and courage. Wait a while, then try two steps. When your dog feels

secure going up and down two steps, then try three steps and so on. Never force

your dog to go up or down as this will only frighten her and slow the process.

Always use praise and lures to get your dog to go up or down a step. Don't rush

her into doing more than she can, take things "one step at a time."

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Socializing Your Puppy Should Be at the Top of Your List When Training Your Puppy A special benefit of socialization and one of the simplest ways to begin teaching

your puppy not to bite and be so mouthy is to start socializing her with other

puppies and dogs as soon as possible. In this case, socialization means playtime.

Playtime means biting, mouthing, romping, tumbling and roughhousing. Puppies that

have an outlet for these behaviors are less likely to use their human companions

as littermate alternates.

Find a Doggy Playmate... It might take some time for your puppy to accept a new

playmate and vice/versa, but be patient and generally they will become best doggy

friends.

How do I find a Playmate? Enroll in a puppy training class, talk to your

neighbors, take your puppy on walks around your neighborhood...

With just the opportunity to play with another dog on a regular basis, puppy

biting can dramatically reduce. Socialization with other dogs plus instruction and

training from you, usually stops the inappropriate biting in minimal time with

minimal effort. If your puppy does not have an alternative outlet for it’s biting

and mouthing, then humans, furniture, clothing, and fill-in-the-blank become the

objects of the puppy’s teeth.

Socializing your puppy also helps her develop a secure and stable personality. It

teaches your puppy how to behave in different situations and settings.

Socialization helps your puppy become an all around well-adjusted companion.

Puppies who have not been socialized generally become fearful, skittish dogs who

may be frightened and upset by everyday occurrences and unavoidable situations.

They are untrustworthy and often have nervous, frenetic personalities. They tend

to be biters and barkers. They often experience separation anxiety and

submissively pee. Taking an un-socialized dog out in public can be a nightmare for

both the dog and the owner.

Start Socializing your Puppy or Dog Now! - Don't Delay...

Whatever the age of your puppy, start now. The sooner the better - and better too

late than not at all. And the longer you wait, the more likely it will be too

late. The younger the puppy the easier it is and more quickly it happens. The

older the dog, the more time consuming and tedious the process. Sometimes so much

so that socialization is unsuccessful.

Here’s an example of a very time limited aspect of socialization. A larger breed

dog while still a very young puppy is relatively easy to socialize with children.

But if you wait for a couple of months, the small, fuzzy, cute, non-threatening

puppy suddenly begins looking more and more like a big dog that some parents may

be hesitant to allow their young children around. It’s easy to control a smaller

puppy to keep him from jumping up and being too exuberant. As the puppy grows,

that jumping and exuberance becomes more difficult to handle and more likely a

liability and risk, hence you don’t have as many opportunities to teach your puppy

to accept and enjoy children.

Puppies are very impressionable and every experience your puppy has will usually stay with him for life.

If your puppy does not experience the vacuum cleaner, then when he meets it for

the first time later on, he will most likely be aggressive towards it or fearful

of it. Now just substitute the words “vacuum cleaner” for any item, object,

person, situation or event: such as loud noises, baths, car rides, cats, horses,

umbrellas, hats, other dogs, people in uniform, etc.

Introduce your puppy to as many different situations and items and people as

possible without overwhelming her. It’s essential that her experiences are

pleasant or at least neutral so that she doesn’t associate these things with

anything scary or painful. Make sure any other dogs or puppies or other pets that

she plays with are friendly, healthy and vaccinated.

Your responsibility is mainly to provide the opportunity for your puppy to explore

and experience new things in a controlled setting with minimal interference. You

may subtly encourage confident behavior with the use of treats and praise.

However, do not scold or reassure any hesitant behavior. Let your puppy find out

on his own that the opened umbrella sitting in the middle of the living room is

not a threat. If he has already shown signs of fear of let’s say the vacuum

cleaner, then leave the vacuum in the middle of the room, unplugged and with a

scattering of his favorite treats around and on the vacuum itself. This may take

anywhere from a few hours to a few weeks depending on your puppy’s age and

previous experience. When your puppy shows no signs of fear of it, then plug it in

and turn it on only briefly and at some distance away so as to not blast your

unsuspecting pooch into the next room.

Remember the idea of socialization is allow your pup to accustom herself to

strange and different or new things in a pleasant way and non-threatening way. If

you find that the item or situation is too much for your puppy, stop the session

immediately and either try again with your puppy at a greater distance from the

offending stimulus or find a way to minimize the situation to a level that is not

over bearing for your puppy.

Dogs have a keen ability to sense our feelings and emotions. So if you find

yourself upset or nervous about a particular item or situation, your puppy will

probably pick up these same feelings. If you find yourself over-whelmed, you might

also want to start with a situation where you yourself are comfortable and

confident.

Before taking your puppy outside to public places, make sure she is vaccinated and

has your veterinarian’s approval. Make sure any animals she comes in contact with

are also vaccinated and healthy. In particular you want to avoid any place where

stray dogs or unhealthy, unvaccinated dogs have access.

Generally your friends and family’s homes and yards are safe, as long as stray

dogs are not able to roam freely on their property. Any place that is clean and

safe for you and your children would most likely be safe for your puppy. Shopping

centers and storefronts are great places to meet all kinds of new things. Some

businesses allow dogs on their premises, so just ask. Be sure to take your

doggy-diaper bag with you to clean up any accidents or messes your puppy may

create. Take treats, water, toys and any other supplies that may come in handy.

When in public, always make sure you can prove her registration and vaccination

status.

__________________________________________________________________________________ COPROPHAGIA

Although most people find it repulsive, it is quite natural for dogs, especially

puppies to eat feces. (Feces found in kitty's litter box is an especially favorite

treat.) Fresh feces closely resemble the first solid food the puppy ate: warm,

semi-solid, semi-digested food that mom regurgitated for her pups to eat.

Often this behavior will just go away when the pup matures. In the mean time, keep

the pup's toilet area as clean as possible. Be sure that the puppy is checked for

worms and other possible problems such as something lacking in the dog's diet. It

is a good idea to have the dog's diet approved by your vet, or switch to a

nutritionally complete dog food sold by your vet or pet store.

Many owners have had success in stopping this behavior by supplementing their

dog's diet with one spoonful of canned pineapple or a teaspoon of spinach. There

are products on the market such as 'Forbid' that can also be added to the dog's

food to help stop the problem.

If the dog is still fond of feces, try teaching your dog not to touch it using the

command 'Off.' Put your dog on leash and walk him by some feces. If he shows any

interest in it, tell him, 'No, off.' If he continues to go for it, then loudly

scold him, 'OFF!!!' and pull him away from it with a short, sharp tug on the

leash. When he stops, praise him. Continue walking and keep returning to different

piles of feces over and over, repeating the off procedure until he gets the idea

that you disapprove of his dietary interests. Whenever he shows no interest in the

feces, be sure to tell him how happy you are through praise and reward.

It is also possible to make the feces unappetizing by sprinkling them with hot

sauce, lemon juice or anything the dog finds distasteful. Some dogs like hot sauce

and will consider it a garnish, so find out what your dog does not like before

using it.

Be sure to clean up your dog's feces immediately after he defecates so as to

prevent the problem in the first place. Do not give him the opportunity to indulge

himself __________________________________________________________________________________ Winning Your Puppy's Trust, Respect and Confidence Many people try to win their new puppy's love by letting the puppy always have its

way. The pup is showered with affection and attention because he is so cute and

cuddly. Buckets of affection is a wonderful thing for most puppies, but it must be

tempered with respect.

If you give in to your puppy's every whim, your pup will never learn self control

and self discipline. Your puppy will never learn to respect you. If your puppy

does not respect you, it will have no reason to do anything for you. Your

relationship will be like two 5 year olds bossing each other around. Just as a

child needs a caring parent; an athletic team needs a coach; your puppy needs a

leader and a clear social hierarchy.

If you do not take up the role of leader, your dog will; and you will end up with

an unruly, disobedient, out of control, often aggressive monster of a dog. Most of

these dogs end up living a life of isolation in the back yard because no one can

deal with it. They end up at the shelter because either the owner can't live with

the dog anymore, or a member of the public has filed a complaint against the dog

and government officials have taken the dog away from the owner. DON'T LET THIS

HAPPEN TO YOU AND YOUR DOG!

Other people have an equally erroneous misconception of this issue. Instead of

showering the dog with love and affection, they think that to earn the dog's

respect they must bully, dominate and terrorize the dog into being submissive. A

dog treated this way will eventually bite their owner. This is not respect.

Respect is not something that is forced. It is won. A dog will not respect someone

it does not trust. The old fashioned method of dominance via the alpha roll over

does not win respect.

You can win your puppy's trust and respect by asking for simple compliance to

basic training commands and through handling and gentling exercises. Of utmost

importance, these routines must be predictable as anticipated by your puppy.

For instance:


 * Ask your puppy to sit before getting a dog treat or sit before leaving the house

to go for a walk. Follow-up by placing your puppy in a sit using your hands if

your puppy doesn't comply (no doggy treat of course, if you have to do all the

work! But you must still praise your puppy). Pretty soon your puppy will learn the

routine and be more than happy to comply, and all the while you are building a

relationship of consistency, love, trust and respect. You've got the idea? -

expand on it...


 * Using your hands, place your puppy in a down and then "examine" your puppy by

touching ears, teeth, tail, etc. Let your puppy know this is a fun thing by

praising your puppy while you are handling her. An occassional doggy treat while

you are handling your puppy should accellerate your puppy's acceptance of being

touched and handled. Of course, any biting while handling should receive a

resounding "NO" or "Ouch" in a load voice. When the biting stops, tell your puppy

what a good girl she is... profusely!

__________________________________________________________________________________ Puppy Jumping Jumping up can be dangerous as well as annoying. Just as many owners are sued for

their jumping dogs as their biting dogs. Young children and elderly people can

easily be toppled over and seriously injured by exuberant, friendly dogs. Start

now to teach your puppy not to jump up. Even little dogs can cause problems and

injury to themselves and others when they leap and jump around.

Puppy Jumping Do's -Gently and repetitively place puppy's feet back on the floor and reward him

there. -Be consistent.

-Get down to his level to give affection and attention.

Puppy Jumping Don'ts -Do not allow the pup to jump up. Do not pet, talk, cuddle or reward him for

jumping. -Do not give in!

-Do not allow other people to let him jump on them.

-Do not give up!

__________________________________________________________________________________ Puppy Pulling On Leash Train your puppy proper leash behavior before pulling on leash becomes a difficult

habit to break. Leash Training Do's -Use a body harness and train your puppy to accept it the same way you teach puppy

to accept a collar. Check here if your pup is frightened or leery of the

collar/harness or leash.

-Use lures and praise to keep puppy at your side.

-Keep the leash loose at all times. If you see your puppy starting to forge ahead,

abruptly reverse directions so that puppy finds himself suddenly behind or beside

you instead of forging in front of you. Don't wait until the puppy is clear at the

other end of the leash, pulling ahead before you take action. The leash should

always remain loose except for that one split second it takes when you're

reversing direction. Do not drag your puppy back to your side. Use a quick tug,

then immediately release so the leash is slack again. If it doesn't all happen in

3/10ths of a second, it's taking too long and your puppy will not learn to walk

nicely on leash. Put another way: Instead of correcting your dog after he is

already pulling, do not give him the opportunity to pull. If he never pulls, he

will never learn to pull. You must correct him BEFORE he pulls!

-Practice now before your pup learns to pull. Since your pup is unable to walk the

streets yet, begin teaching him to walk around your house and yard. He should be

taught not to pull before hitting the streets.

Leash Training Don'ts -Do not let your puppy pull you around. -If you cannot correct the puppy in time, do not reward his pulling by letting him

continue on his way. Better to slowly just turn around and go the other way, or

stop in your tracks and say, "We are not going one inch further until you stop

pulling." Then wait, it may take 30 seconds; it may take 20 minutes. Do not move

until your puppy is in control. Now you can start over and give the correction

before he starts pulling again. If again you are too late in your correction,

start again.

-Do not yank and pull on your puppy's throat and neck. Use a soft, adjustable,

non- restrictive harness. As soon as your pup learns leash manners, you can switch

to a regular collar for walking. Do not leave the harness on your dog unattended.

Use it only while you are practicing.

-Never use a choke collar.

__________________________________________________________________________________ re directed at the wrong thing. For example, the dog will eliminate on the carpet

instead of outside; the dog will bark all night long instead of just when a

stranger is prowling around outside; or the dog will chew furniture instead of his

own toys. The key to preventing or treating behavior problems is learning to teach

the dog to redirect his natural behavior to outlets that are acceptable in the

domestic setting.

Obedience training is also an easy way to establish the social hierarchy. When

your dog obeys a simple request of 'come here, sit,' she is showing compliance and

respect for you. It is NOT necessary to establish yourself as top dog or leader of

the pack by using extreme measures such as the so-called alpha roll-over. You CAN

teach your dog her subordinate role by teaching her to show submission to you in a

paw raise (shake hands), roll over or hand lick (give a kiss). Most dogs love

performing these tricks (obedience commands) for you which also pleasantly

acknowledge that you are in charge.

Obedience training should be fun and rewarding for you and your dog. It can enrich

your relationship and make living together more enjoyable. A well-trained dog is

more confident and can more safely be allowed a greater amount of freedom than an

untrained one. A trained dog will come when called.

Some people debate whether or not it is possible to train puppies, and others ask

whether it is possible to teach an old dog new tricks. The answer to both

questions is an unequivocal YES. Whatever the age of your dog, the right time to

begin training is right now! The most important time in your dog's life is right

now. Your dog's behavior is constantly changing. A dog that is well-behaved today

will not necessarily remain that way forever. New problems can always develop.

Existing problems can always get worse. __________________________________________________________________________________ Rewards While Training The single most important aspect of training is rewarding your dog for good

behavior. The more times the dog is rewarded, the quicker he will learn.

Therefore, it's essential that you set up situations repeatedly in order for your

dog to get plenty of practice at doing the right thing. It's equally as important

that you always praise your dog for good behavior instead of taking it for

granted. It's easy to forget to praise good behavior because it goes unnoticed.

But the very nature of misbehavior gets our attention. We don't notice when our

dog is lying quietly, but excessive barking gets our attention. How many of us

take notice and praise our dogs when they chew their own toys? But we all go

berserk when we notice our favorite pair of shoes chewed up! Praise and reward are

the most important part of maintaining good behavior and preventing problems from

arising.

Reprimands While Training Some dogs feel they are constantly bombarded with, 'NO, Stop that, get off, Bad

dog!' They tend to get used to it and so the reprimands become meaningless and are

ignored. If most of our interaction with the dog is praise for good behavior, then

reprimands will take on much more meaning. Whenever you find the need to reprimand

your dog, immediately show him what you want him to do, then reward him for

getting it right. If you catch him chewing the furniture, tell him, 'Off!' Then

immediately direct him to his own toys, enthusiastically entice him to chew on

them and praise him for doing so.

If done correctly, your voice alone is sufficient for reprimand. A correct

reprimand is short, sharp and immediate. Don't continue to nag the dog and never

reprimand him unless you catch him in the act. Never hit, kick, slap or spank your

dog. This type of inappropriate punishment always creates more problems and

usually makes existing problems worse. Not only will you have a barking, chewing

dog, but one that is leery, hand-shy, fearful or aggressive.

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