Wikipedia:Reference desk/Archives/Computing/2011 November 22

= November 22 =

wireless mouse
Apologies for what feels like a really dumb question, but is it necessary to switch off a wireless mouse after every use? The switches are small and fiddly as though they are not intended for regular use. Both of mine came with no instructions and I can't find an answer by Googling or reading the relevant articles. One is an HP RM809A which has a red light underneath that goes out after a few seconds. The other is a Logitech M235 with no visible light underneath.--Shantavira|feed me 08:45, 22 November 2011 (UTC)


 * Many wireless mice have a "power save" mode, wherein (when they haven't detected a movement for a while) they reduce the level of their light to save power. But they don't switch it, or their circuitry, off entirely, and so continue to use some power. Switching it off will make it last longer before you need a new battery, but I don't know how efficient that "power saver" feature is. -- Finlay McWalterჷTalk 12:29, 22 November 2011 (UTC)


 * Mine (a Microsoft mouse) runs out of battery pretty quickly and it doesn't have a switch, so I try to remember to unclip the battery compartment lid when I leave the machine unused. - David Biddulph (talk) 12:36, 22 November 2011 (UTC)


 * The mouse which doesn't ever show visible light uses infra-red light instead of visible; this light is visible if you view it through a digital camera, so you can see when it's on or off. -- Finlay McWalterჷTalk 12:33, 22 November 2011 (UTC)


 * Eventually the switch will break. If it breaks in "always on" mode, no problem, but if it breaks in "always off" mode, you need a new mouse.  So, the question is whether replacing the batteries more often is more annoying and expensive that the risk of that.  I suspect it's a wash, depending on the relative cost of the mice and batteries. StuRat (talk) 14:52, 22 November 2011 (UTC)


 * Personally, I've gone back to using a mouse with a cable. Not only did my IR mouse use batteries at a ridiculous rate (and inevitably run out of power at an awkward time), but the extra weight of the batteries made it less precise. Being attached by a cable has the added advantage that I can't lose it amongst all the other clutter on my desk... AndyTheGrump (talk) 15:00, 22 November 2011 (UTC)


 * Agreed. The one wireless mouse I tried also had an absurdly short range of about 3 feet.  My mouse cord is longer than that. StuRat (talk) 20:24, 22 November 2011 (UTC)


 * Back to the battery life and the off switch - it depends on the mouse, as the technology is constantly improving. I use a Logitech Wireless Trackball M570 for several hours a day and rarely switch it off.  I have been on the same single ordinary AA battery now for 11 months.  The range is at least 35 feet (the limit to my line-of-sight environment).  This is anecdotal of course, but I figured it was worth pointing out that not all wireless devices are battery hogs.  -- 24.254.222.77 (talk) 01:10, 23 November 2011 (UTC)

Columns in Word 2007
I am pretty sure I have never experienced this problem before, but I may be mistaken. I am starting a new document at the moment, and the top of the document requires two columns. The first column needs to be oriented to the left, while the second needs to be oriented to the right. After clicking Breaks>Column, to get the cursor at the top of the new column, I try to orient it to the right, but, this is affecting the left-hand column, too - which also becomes oriented to the right. What am I doing wrong here? KägeTorä - (影虎) ( TALK )  10:22, 22 November 2011 (UTC)
 * I just had a play with this. It helps if you have all your text done first (in one normal continuous column down the page).  Select the bit you want in 2 columns and click on the columns option on the page layout ribbon-tab.  This will take the selected text and split it over two columns like a newspaper.  You can then select parts of each column and align them left/right/center/justified.  You can also apply other paragraph formatting such as language, indents, etc.  Unfortunately that is applied to each paragraph within the columns, so you might get odd things happen if a paragraph breaks at the foot of the first columns and continues at the top of the other column..  That way, I can get 2 columns with the text close together in the centre of the page or wide apart towards the page margins.  Astronaut (talk) 13:48, 22 November 2011 (UTC)
 * When you say "the top of the document requires two columns", exactly what does that mean? To me that sounds like you want maybe the top line or two of the document with some text left-aligned and some text right-aligned, rather than say a page full of text in left and right-aligned columns. If that's the case you don't really want to use columns at all. That would be better solved using either left and right tab stops, or by inserting a borderless two column table and formatting each cell to left or right as needed. FWIW these solutions could also be used for full columns of text; if so the table would probably be the better option. --jjron (talk) 14:21, 22 November 2011 (UTC)

Astronaut's solution works, until I press Enter in the second column, when I get sent back to the first column again. I haven't tried Jjron's answer yet. I will do so later, and report back. Cheers. KägeTorä - (影虎) ( TALK )  17:12, 22 November 2011 (UTC)
 * The columns in Word are designed to work a bit like a newspaper. A continuous single column of text is broken in half at a convenient point so as to keep both columns roughly the same length; exactly which point is often a paragraph boundary, but that depends on the widow/orphan control in the paragraph settings.  You can get some seemingly odd things going on if you add text to your columns after you have created them, with text in the right column suddenly moving to the left column.  If you want to add normall formatted text after the columns, you need to be aware of the section breaks that separate the columns from the rest of the document.  You can see these if you turn on the hidden-paragraph-marker view (the ¶ button) so you can be sure you are adding text after the section break.  On the other hand, if you have a clear idea of exactly which text needs to be on the left and which on the right, rather then simply needing a newspaper-like layout, then Jjron's solution might be a better way.  Astronaut (talk) 04:55, 23 November 2011 (UTC)

Connecting an external HDD to a computer
Where can you connect an external HDD to? If a computer only has USB 2.0 ports (not 3.0, which should be standard!), but also E-SATA and HDMI. Would it be possible not to connect through the rather slow USB 2.0 port? — Preceding unsigned comment added by 88.8.74.46 (talk) 13:51, 22 November 2011 (UTC)
 * Well given that external HDDs tend to come with USB connections only, that would generally limit your options, unless you're into rewiring these things to suit a different connection, or using an adapter to another port, which would probably be more likely to slow you down even more anyway. Alternatively you could get a second internal HDD (assuming you have the space in your computer) and connect it via a faster internal connection. But maybe your cheapest and easiest option would be to buy a USB 3.0 expansion card for your computer, and plug your new USB 3.0 external drive into that. --jjron (talk) 14:28, 22 November 2011 (UTC)
 * It's a laptop, so no internal space available for it or for the USB 3.0 expansion card... 88.8.74.46 (talk) 14:50, 22 November 2011 (UTC)
 * Everybody was fine with using USB2.0 until a year or two ago, I think you will be able to get away with using it. On the other hand, many external USB HDDs are really standard HDDs with a SATA to USB converter.  You could potentially open it up and use the original SATA cable. But really, just use USB - it's not that slow. TheGrimme (talk) 14:55, 22 November 2011 (UTC)
 * For exchanging several 5 GB files, USB 2.0 is slow enough to be irritating. It's simply not the standard anymore. At the time when files were <1 GB, it was OK, but I want something more. 88.8.74.46 (talk) 15:04, 22 November 2011 (UTC)
 * I use USB2.0 on my laptop for my external HDD, and run some fairly CPU-intensive games from it with no problem whatsoever - no lag, nothing. Also, transferring 5GB takes just less than as many minutes. This has never been a problem for me (Intel Core i5 processor, in case that matters). Sorry, this answer may not be of any help.  KägeTorä - (影虎)  ( TALK )  16:07, 22 November 2011 (UTC)
 * Yes, USB 2.0 was enough for us a short time ago. A HDD of 1 TB also sounded as a lot. However, times change. 88.8.74.46 (talk) 19:36, 22 November 2011 (UTC)
 * ... so won't you be changing your laptop soon for one with USB 3.0 and several TB of storage? Meanwhile, I would just put up with 2.0 (in fact I do!)    D b f i r s   22:36, 22 November 2011 (UTC)
 * Apparently you can get USB 3.0 adapters for your laptop - see here. Or you may be able to upgrade the laptop motherboard, but that may be unlikely or uneconomical. Look, not to be flippant, but if none of the suggestions suit you and USB 3.0 is that important to you on your laptop, maybe you just need to lash out and buy yourself a new laptop with USB 3.0 already built in. --jjron (talk) 23:05, 22 November 2011 (UTC)

Vista toolbar icon doesn't match internet connection?
I've noticed that the internet connection icon on the bottom toolbar of Vista sometimes doesn't match the status of the internet connection. On mouseover it says "Network 4: Access local and internet", and I'm able to submit this question. But the toolbar icon is the two monitors with a red X representing no connection. I'd think a program that's been out so long on so many computers with bugfixes every couple of weeks would be past stuff like this... but then again, it's a Microsoft product. Wnt (talk) 16:41, 22 November 2011 (UTC)
 * This happens to me, too, on my other laptop, which is Vista. Also, lots of icons don't show what they are supposed to show (for example, currently, my REVO Uninstaller Pro icon is showing as Windows' own generic .exe file icon, and World In Conflict is showing with Dawn of War II's icon. I don't think it's anything to worry about, however unprofessional it may look.  KägeTorä - (影虎)  ( TALK )  17:10, 22 November 2011 (UTC)
 * On the Mac (the old classic Mac systems) this problem of icons being wrongly associated would happen every so often and would be cured by a mysterious process called "rebuilding the desktop", which meant restarting with certain keys held down (option and apple, I think). So, I went and searched for a windows equivalent of rebuilding the desktop, and found this page which says Tweak UI does it, but Tweak UI is very old, so I searched for a Tweak UI equivalent and found this Tom's Hardware article  about something called "Ultimate Windows Tweaker". I don't know whether it has the necessary function to repair icons or not. I've never understood why they go wrong in the first place, either  Card Zero  (talk) 00:41, 23 November 2011 (UTC)
 * My Vista laptop also does this, but I'm sure it is quite a recent thing. Either a recent update broke something, or it is time to reinstall Vista.  Astronaut (talk) 04:33, 23 November 2011 (UTC)
 * Yes, I've noticed something similar recently, but the icons eventually rearrange themselves correctly.   D b f i r s   07:06, 23 November 2011 (UTC)

Too technical: What readers NEED/want here

 * Message originally appended to Talk:Secure Digital

No offense intended. Experience of reading article was comparable to old comment, "If I already knew how to spell the word, I wouldn't need to look it up in a dictionary." Or, despite the charts, the technical language still leaves reader with feeling of "too much data, not enough information."

Hope my comments help you improve article - soon. ;-) Arrived here through search and links. Seeking info re WHAT micro SD card to buy for Android smartphone, Samsung SPH-M920 (marketed as the Samsung Transform). This article is as close as index-search got me.

I provide background, so that those who DO understand the article can see how the article does not meet information needs of intelligent, but less-tech-savvy users who NEED the info.

Article too technical: I STILL do not know what card to buy. Before reading, these are the things I "thought I knew" this:


 * 1) - Standard 2GB card that comes with phone = too small for needs. (Minimal photos, but many applications. Some applications (used daily) make intensive use of SD card.
 * 2) - 16 GB = too much $, even on internet. That leaves 4 GB or 8 GB.
 * 3) - Speed matters. Class 4 makes seems better choice. (Possibility of watching full-length movie?)
 * 4) - Prefer SanDisk (Known compatibility with phone, at least at 2 MB) (Still have adapter from original SanDisk card.)
 * 5) - 4 GB likely to meet needs for near term, but likely to have phone at least 1.5 more yrs (end of contract).
 * 6) - Do NOT like the phone (mostly software issues), but likely "stuck with it" for financial reasons. Like plan I have.
 * 7) - Seriously considering 8 GB, partly due to possible re-use.
 * 8) - Do NOT know if 8 GB (especially class4) would be compatible with phone.
 * 9) - Although need card ASAP & budget tight, prices vary so widely, I should consider online purchase and/or another brand.
 * 10) - If get San-Disk, Reader and/or holder to use in USB (packaged together), seems logical.
 * 11) - Need back-up & transfer/read capabilities. Specs: Near-term computer access is Linux in PC. Future computer access (by summer) will be Macintosh (while still using this phone).
 * 12) - Local prices for 4 or 8 GB = several times internet prices. Rarely find SanDisk.
 * 13) - Know of a few online sources I would trust for purchase (if they had what I want).
 * 14) - Know how to search, but not evaluate "bargains"/vendors I find.
 * 15) - Know of a few, relatively-local sources, none of which seem to have SanDisk, except in 2 gig or at almost maximum prices.
 * 16) - Even though I need phone "yesterday" - it could well be after Thanksgiving before I get SD card - no matter how I get it.
 * 17) - Do not know what is and is not compatible with phone.
 * 18) - Do not know what brands are reliable.
 * 19) - Do not know what brands will fit in existing adapter. (Do I need package of adapter and micro SD?)
 * 20) - Question: Do I buy cheapest 4 or 8 Gb I can find locally? Or SanDisk locally?
 * 21) - Question: Do I buy cheapest 4 or 8 Gb I can find on internet (at seemingly-reliable dealer) - even though not SanDisk?
 * 22) - Question: If I buy 1 card,identified as from bulk-package, am I risking it has been handled, not warranty?, may be another failure?
 * 23) - Question: Do I focus only on card? or seek package with card, adapter, and reader and/or pen-drive holder for card?
 * 24) - Bottom-line Question: Cut losses & save time by getting 2-4 gig of anything, locally, no accessories? OR Optimize expenditure by getting 8 gig + accessories on-line for relatively similar price-point? OR  spend least, on-line, delays, "mystery label" for 2-4 GB?

So, that is where I started. I read entire page. I am smart. Reasonably tech-savvy, but less than 1 year experience with smart-phones. Most mobile-phone experience has been abysmal. Yet, I am nowhere closer to being informed about making decision than I was before I read this article or wrote this response.

FWIW: Main advantages of remaining with this phone:
 * 1) - Like the plan (includes unlimited data and enough minutes & minute-saving conditions for free-calls).
 * 2) -  Much of learning-curve accomplished.
 * 3) - Cut my losses by staying with this phone. (Tight budget.)
 * 4) - Phone meets *current* needs. Most "future needs" are "wants" - not needs. Needs are:
 * phone with "enough" minutes (rationed carefully).
 * Substantial access to data-intense application. (Plan has unlimited data package.) Have used iPhone 'estimator' to calculate usage. With anticipated data usage & close minute-management: My costs approximate my anticipated costs if used newest iPhone 3 (non-Verison). Newer iPhone out-of-reach at least till summer (same time I would qualify for upgrade on current phone, but iPhone not option on that contract). Note that getting iPhone would increase costs, due to unanticipated,too-tempting purchases.

WANTS ARE: Media (radio and free downlaodable songs. Occasional free, down loadable movies and/or TV ability to use internet access while on phone ability to listen to anything (radio, voicemail) or use other applications - while on-hold for long-time on call I placed.

Suggestions? TIA....

--KnowLimits (talk) 17:01, 22 November 2011 (UTC)
 * On ebay I found a 8 gb memory card for $3 more then a 4 gb, so go with an 8 C T J F 8 3  18:26, 22 November 2011 (UTC)


 * There is a limit to what one can reasonably expect to find in an encyclopaedia, no matter how comprehensive. While Wikipedia might illustrate the basic differences between a range of phones, for detailed shopping decisions you'll surely be better off looking at review websites and using their forums. 87.115.189.156 (talk) 18:46, 22 November 2011 (UTC)


 * I reformatted your post to remove the double numbering. Note that an encyclopedia can't have current pricing info, as that changes on a daily basis.  StuRat (talk) 20:15, 22 November 2011 (UTC)


 * I would suggest buying online from a reputable dealer, which does not include third party sellers on reputable sites. I personally recommend Newegg, just because they're reputable and relatively cheap.  Your phone can accept up to a 32GB microsd card, and all microsd cards should be compatible, because it's a standard they have to follow.  Class speeds are mostly pointless, because a Class 4 can outperform a Class 10 in the real world, depending on the card.  Typically, read speeds on solid-state devices will be vastly superior when reading.  So unless you're recording a lot of HD video, you can mostly ignore the class speeds.  You shouldn't need a card reader, as long as you have a USB cable to connect your phone to the PC (or if you have bluetooth on your PC as well).  You also should get a decent brand.  Sandisk is up there, but Kingston is typically the cheapest of the good brands.  Other brands to look at include PNY and Transcend.  As for size, it depends.  I always run out of room, so I usually opt for the largest.  It depends on how much media you plan to put on it, and what you can afford.  I recently bought a 32GB Sandisk one for under $36, so they're not as expensive as even six months ago.  You shouldn't be paying much more than about $1 a GB.  With Black Friday around the corner, you can probably expect to find a 16GB card for about $10.
 * In short, I put reliability first, followed by size and price. Adaptors are rarely needed.  --Wirbelwind ヴィルヴェルヴィント  (talk) 21:58, 22 November 2011 (UTC)


 * I disagree with your thesis that the technical nature of the Secure Digital article kept you from getting answers to your question, namely: which product is best for your personal situation. Not only are current costs outside the scope of the article, as StuRat notes above; so are decisions such as whether you should trade in your phone for a different model. Spike-from-NH (talk) 23:05, 22 November 2011 (UTC)


 * Yes, reflecting the above responses, perhaps you've misinterpreted - Wikipedia articles are for encyclopaedic information, they're not buyer's guides or advice. Other websites specialise in that sort of information. The Whirlpool forums are a popular Australian example. --jjron (talk) 23:10, 22 November 2011 (UTC)


 * To summarise your question: You want to store movies on a micro-SD card and watch them on your Samsung SPH-M920 phone. What size should you get that fits your budget?
 * I think you are over-thinking this way too much. Go buy the largest capacity card that is within your budget.  I can easily find Class 4 8GB cards online for less than $10, while class 10 cards are a couple of bucks dearer.  I think the brand is pretty much irrelevant.  If the card turns out to be of too poor quality, they are usually cheap enough to simply buy another.  Page 111 of the phone's user manual says that cards of up to 32 GB are compatible with the phone and the next page says to "be sure to use only recommended microSD cards" without saying which cards they recommend.  Astronaut (talk) 04:07, 23 November 2011 (UTC)

Old equipment
I live in the American midwest. Instead of trashing or taking to a recycling center, does anyone have any suggestions for dealing with old computer stuff, such as parallel and serial cables? I would think someone, somewhere, might still be able to use such stuff. Thank you! ←Baseball Bugs What's up, Doc? carrots→ 23:22, 22 November 2011 (UTC)
 * Put it up on some kind of freecycling site? Card Zero  (talk) 00:58, 23 November 2011 (UTC)