Wikipedia:Reference desk/Archives/Computing/2012 June 8

= June 8 =

"Gateway timed out"
I keep getting this message in a pop up box in the center of my screen while I try to access Wikipedia and the whole screen behind it darkens. I click on "okay" and it goes away but it's annoying and I want to know what's causing this. Can anyone explain? Thanks.--108.46.98.134 (talk) 01:40, 8 June 2012 (UTC)
 * Oh, I'm on a iMac 10.6.8, using Firefox, latest version--108.46.98.134 (talk) 01:42, 8 June 2012 (UTC)
 * I'm getting the same error tonight. Though, I'm on a MacBook with 10.5.8 and using Safari.  It's been every time that I click on something on my watchlist.  We should probably take this to WP:VPT.  Dismas |(talk) 02:05, 8 June 2012 (UTC)
 * I see there's already a discussion there. What that confirms for me this that it is NOT ME--this take away my mild worry that it was a problem with my computer. Thanks for responding.--108.46.98.134 (talk) 02:24, 8 June 2012 (UTC)

Need help troubleshooting computer with corrupted HDD
One of my computers has a crashed/corrupted hard drive. Windows fails to boot normally, but can boot into some recovery mode. One of the options is "repair your computer" or some such, but no OS is listed in the dialog. It says that if no OS is listed, I'll have to load some drivers. The computer didn't come with a restoration disc. Not sure if the recovery discs I burned post-install would have the needed drivers. Tried Linux-based SystemRescueCD, but couldn't mount any of the (NTFS) partitions. Tried a diagnostic CD from the HDD manufacturer. It said the HDD failed some important diagnostic test. There was a longer test that identified a screenful of sector read errors (all excerpt one had the same LBA address--it's weird) and offered an option to repair them. Didn't try the repair option for fear that it might make the problem worse. Don't know how many more screenfuls of error the tool would find if I continued.

I'm looking for info on how to troubleshoot/fix the problem. The primary goal is data recovery. Recovery without reinstalling all software would be a plus. My first objective is to determine, without disturbing the HDD content, whether I have a hardware problem or just bad sectors in some critical places. Assuming I don't have a hardware problem with the drive, my next objective is to determine whether the file system can be repaired, and get a sense of how much of the data can be recovered.

I could use some advice on what tools to use, what procedures to try, and in what order. Thanks in advance! --98.114.146.239 (talk) 04:55, 8 June 2012 (UTC)


 * It sounds like you need to install the O/S and drivers on a different hard disk, first, and make that the boot disk, so you can get the computer up and running. If you don't have the necessary backup disks to do this, you might be able to download them (using another computer), assuming you have the validation codes.  Once you get the computer running, you can try to repair the bad hard disk and copy over any data you can still save.  There are also places you could take the bad disk, which will attempt to recover the data, for a fee. StuRat (talk) 05:10, 8 June 2012 (UTC)

dd (Unix) ¦ Reisio (talk) 12:58, 8 June 2012 (UTC)

Phones are smart afterall!!!
Why do smartphones switch themselves on when you switch them off? Difficultly north (talk) 10:21, 8 June 2012 (UTC)


 * Poor/broken power buttons, probably stemming mostly from the idea that power buttons should be held to be used, as opposed to just pressed/switched. ¦ Reisio (talk) 12:34, 8 June 2012 (UTC)


 * Mine has the option to turn itself off at a certain time and back on at another time, so, if you have that option set on yours, this might explain it. Also, I only use the clam-shell design, as any design which leaves the buttons exposed while in your pocket is bound to do bad things like this. StuRat (talk) 17:13, 8 June 2012 (UTC)

Yahoo Live Chat
Separately, is there a way to permanently disable Yahoo Live Chat (which is not the same as Yahoo Messenger as it is only located within Yahoo mail) instead of just being signed out? Difficultly north (talk) 10:28, 8 June 2012 (UTC)

How to clean a desktop computer monitor
What is the best thing to use to clean/wipe a desktop computer monitor? I mean, something liquid (to get out stains and smudges) – maybe along the lines of water or Windex? – as opposed to just an (ineffective) dry cloth or such. Thanks! Joseph A. Spadaro (talk) 18:56, 8 June 2012 (UTC)


 * Yes, Windex works great (that's an ammonia/water mix plus some alcohol and a few other ingredients). However, never use it with the last paper towel on the roll, as glue used to attach that to the cardboard core can be dissolved by the Windex and redeposit on the screen, making it look like somebody sneezed on it. StuRat (talk) 19:06, 8 June 2012 (UTC)
 * I wonder how you know that last bit... :) SemanticMantis (talk) 20:52, 8 June 2012 (UTC)


 * Windex is great for CRTs, and other glass surfaces. Many modern LCD screens do not have glass surfaces. Windex may indeed be fine on many of these, but e.g. Apple recommends using only pure water to clean the screens of its products. SemanticMantis (talk) 20:52, 8 June 2012 (UTC)


 * Just water should be enough for the vast majority of situations, anyways. ¦ Reisio (talk) 21:07, 8 June 2012 (UTC)


 * I don't think water is very effective on fingerprints. Plastics may be present, either on the screen or housing, but none of the ingredients in Windex is harmful to plastics.  Acetone would be, as in nail polish remover, so keep that away, obviously.  Some oils, like peppermint oil, might also dissolve plastics.


 * Also note that the ammonia in Windex is a lung irritant, so should only be used in a well ventilated area. I suggest leaving the room for an hour after you use the Windex.  (Cleaning it before you go to bed is a good plan, unless the computer is in your bedroom.)   StuRat (talk) 21:27, 8 June 2012 (UTC)


 * If by not very effective you mean the fingerprints might not magically disappear without some wiping, you may be right. ¦ Reisio (talk) 22:02, 8 June 2012 (UTC)


 * Since fingerprints contain oil, which does not dissolve in water, the best you are likely to do with water is smear them around a bit. I think there are some special surface treatments which hide fingerprints well, but, if you can see them to start with, you probably won't get rid of them with water alone.  StuRat (talk) 22:04, 8 June 2012 (UTC)


 * Unless you're doing something other than spraying liquid onto your screen and just leaving it there hoping it will disappear on its own, like using a paper towel (or whatever super lint free matter you prefer). ¦ Reisio (talk) 22:10, 8 June 2012 (UTC)
 * TIP to remove oil spots including grease (eg from cooking etc) on sensitive optical components - lick it with your tongue - (try it and then ask a biologist for why it works) - then wipe with a damp (non-paper) cloth to remove the harmless saliva. Try not to drink cocoa immediately before doing this.Oranjblud (talk) 13:52, 9 June 2012 (UTC)
 * Keep in mind that some computer screens have various surface treatments like anti-glare coatings which may be removed by aggressive solvents. For example, a number of computer monitor manufacturers say (or at least used to say) that you shouldn't use alcohol or alcohol-based cleaners on their monitors, as prolonged use can remove the anti-glare coating. Depending on what the surface treatments are, they may or may not be stable to regular treatment with Windex or other cleaners. Check the manufacturer's recommendations to be sure. Generally, using plain water with a soft, lint-free cloth is best, if you can get away with it. For removing oils, etc. you might use a mild soap (like a neutral hand/dish soap), followed by a plain-water rinse. -- 140.142.20.101 (talk) 00:15, 9 June 2012 (UTC)

Whatever it is you decide to spray on your screen (and I agree that water is the obvious first choice - don't go to harder stuff unless you have to, right?), don't actually spray it on your screen. Apply the liquid to a cloth or paper towel first and then gently rub/scrub the screen with it. Most monitors are well enough made to keep out the spray, but if any liquid were to get inside the casing, the chances are much greater that it would do something unfortunate than it would do something good. Personally, I've had good luck with one of those looped microfiber cloths (used dry). YMMV, of course). Matt Deres (talk) 11:17, 9 June 2012 (UTC)


 * Don't use a paper towel . they can contain hard bits of wood matter which will scratch a screen (as any optician will tell you the same about plastic lenses/paper).
 * Use a damp (not wet) cloth (preferably lintless) - water works - it does remove fingerprints. those microfibre dish-cloths are particularly effective (don't use dry to avoid static)
 * Alternatively buy a box of screen wipes.
 * The manual will almost certainly tell you not to use detergents - the manual will almost certainly also tell you the above -either use a specific wipe, or a cloth.Oranjblud (talk) 13:49, 9 June 2012 (UTC)


 * I'd definitely agree if you have the option of something better than a paper towel, go for it, but an ordinary cheap soft paper towel has never done me wrong. ¦ Reisio (talk) 19:34, 9 June 2012 (UTC)

Thanks! Just so I am clear ... it's perfectly safe to apply water and/or Windex to a computer monitor? I had always thought that that was a no-no. And, hence, that was why I asked my original question. Thanks. Joseph A. Spadaro (talk) 16:55, 9 June 2012 (UTC)


 * A) If it's a glass CRT screen with no special coating, then either is fine (and fingerprints are highly visible on those). Paper towels are also fine on those, as glass is hard enough that it won't be scratched.


 * B) If it's does have a special coating, then the slight amount of alcohol in Windex could conceivably wear off that coating after many uses. So, try just water, instead, and use a cloth instead of paper towels, as those type of screens are far more fragile. StuRat (talk) 17:20, 9 June 2012 (UTC)


 * Yes - it's ok to use a damp towel/cloth (if it's dripping water then squeeze more water out of it). Many will advise against tap water - especially if you live in a hard water area due to limescale . Commercial cleaners will are still 90% water plus some additives eg one example 96% water
 * Most important factor is not to press hard or at all on the screen - just wipe across with the wet thing - if the mark doesn't come off wipe again.
 * I assumed you are cleaning a LCD screen - if cleaning an old fashioned cathode ray type monitor the procedure is similar to cleaning a mirror.
 * There are plenty of sites that give instuctions on this-mostly the same - many suggest starting with a dry cloth - personally I recommend avoiding the dry cloth as modern fabrics (eg microfibre) can get a lot of static charge which gives a chance of static damage - wetting the cloth completely eradicates any static electricity risk. It also is needed if you are cleaning more than just dust.77.86.106.97 (talk) 18:14, 9 June 2012 (UTC)


 * My gut reaction is windex is too strong though diluted 1 to several parts it is probably a good choice.77.86.106.97 (talk) 18:17, 9 June 2012 (UTC)