Xuelian Feng

Xuelian Feng, also spelled Xuelian Peak or Snow Lotus Peak, is one of the major mountains of the Tian Shan mountain range. It lies in Xinjiang province, China, about 50 km east-northeast of Jengish Chokusu, the highest peak in the range. It is notable for its large, steep relief above the nearby valleys, and for its large topographic prominence. (It ranks 84th in the world by this measure). However, its height is not on List of highest mountains on Earth. The mountain has five summits, with the main being the north summit at 6627 m; the south summit has an elevation of 6527 m.

Expeditions
The Tokai Section of the Japanese Alpine Club made four expeditions to Xuelian Feng, in 1986, 1988, 1989, and 1990, with the last being successful in ascending the main summit. (The 1989 expedition ascended the south summit and "Junction Peak", another subpeak to the south of the main summit, with elevation 6450 m, and came close to but did not reach the main summit. ) In 1990, the expedition was led by Kazuo Tukushima, and ascended from the Karakume Glacier. The route ascended the southeast ridge of Junction Peak, then traversed a long (2 km/1.2 mi) corniced snow and rock ridge to reach the main summit tower. Other difficulties involved in the 2500 m route included technical rock and ice walls, and snow gullies up to 70 degrees in steepness.