User:Bai0926/User:Bai0926 fashion in China

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Chinese fashion refers to the development and changes in clothing, accessories, beauty and fashion culture in Chinese society. It includes various fashion styles, fashion trends, industrial development and various fashion phenomena related to Chinese culture and society from ancient times to the present. Chinese fashion has rich and diverse characteristics and unique charm, which combines long-standing traditional culture and modern innovative elements. With the rise of China's economy and the globalization of culture, China's fashion industry has developed rapidly and has become one of the most watched forces on the international fashion stage.[1]

In recent years, trends in apparel consumption have evolved. From the return of traditional clothing to the rise of more diversified styles and a focus on materials and fabrics, apparel consumption has become more personalized.

On the one hand, fashion styles in China tend to be diversified, and since 2023, styles such as “Dopamine,” “New Chinese style” have been hot, reflecting the diversity of contemporary fashion and the This reflects the diversity of contemporary fashion and the young generation's pursuit of personalized expression. Consumers' understanding of fashion has gradually gone beyond simple trend-following, paying more attention to the expression of personality and emotion through clothing, and the style of clothing has become more versatile. It is worth paying attention to the fact that traditional clothing containing classical aesthetics, such as Hanbok and Tang suit, have continued to be popular among consumers in recent years. Data show that the Hanfu, show clothes turnover year-on-year growth rate of 376% and 212%, respectively, the number of consumers of men's Tang suit increased by more than 90% year-on-year.

On the one hand, fashion styles tend to diversify. These unique styles are not only changes in the matching of clothing and apparel, but also the display of life attitude and cultural symbols. On the other hand, consumers' attention to materials and fabrics has driven the quality upgrade of the fashion industry. “Soft and comfortable”, “not easily deformed”, “multi-color optional”, “windproof and warm” and so on have become popular apparel keywords which highlights consumers' high demand for clothing quality. This concern for quality is not only reflected in the appearance, but also shows the importance of the wearing experience and environmental protection characteristics of clothing.[2]

Ancient (prehistoric---late Qing Dynasty)[edit]

Clothing in ancient China was influenced by various historical periods and regional cultures. In ancient times, clothing was regarded as a symbol of social status and identity. People of different classes wore different clothing and had a strict hierarchy.[3]

Xia, Shang and Zhou Dynasties[edit]

In the Western Zhou Dynasty, the hierarchy was gradually established, and the Zhou Dynasty set up the official posts of “sifu” and “internal sifu” (Both are the officials’ names who are in charge of the emperor’s auspicious and inauspicious clothing and distinguish their colors and uses.) in charge of royal clothing. According to the literature records and the analysis of unearthed cultural relics, the Chinese official clothing system was initially established in the Xia and Shang Dynasties and has been perfected in the Zhou Dynasty. According to the cultural relics unearthed in the Zhou Dynasty, the basic shape of the up-clothing and down-skirt has been established. From the clothing styles on the unearthed artefacts, it can be found that the clothing styles of this period were mainly narrow sleeves, and the skirts were usually near the knees, with patterns on the collar, sleeves and skirts, and the waist was tightened with belts . The skirt of the lower body is also distinguished by differences in material, color, pattern and so on, and there is no difference in shape. The clothing used to resist cold, in the pre-Qin period, were fur, robe and jian. Fur is leather clothing, and the character of it in oracle bone inscriptions is like the shape of fur turned out and leather hidden in the inside. The up-clothing and down-skirt system is the earliest clothing system. The form is relatively simple, so the coat is also called “duan”, has the meaning of beginning and is used for sacrifice and military clothing to show respect for the ancients.[4]

the Qin and Han dynasties[edit]

During the Qin and Han Dynasties, after the unification of the six states in the Qin Dynasty, the basic dress look of the Spring and Autumn Period was continued. Men were honored with robes. Robes belonged to the ancient system of Han clothing. During the reign of Emperor Qin Shi Huang, it was stipulated that those who were officials up to the third rank or above wore green robes and deep clothes. Commoners wore white robes, all made of silk. The dress of the Qin and Han Dynasties is still the typical dress style with the surplice train of the Shen Yi system, which is divided into two kinds of curved train and straight train. In addition, the typical costumes of the Han Dynasty included the ru pants and skirts. ru could be worn by both men and women, while pants were worn by men and skirts by women. The form of Han Dynasty dress is presented as a short top with separated bottoms.[5]

Wei and jin dynasties[edit]

During the Wei, Jin and North-South Dynasties (220 A.D. - 589 A.D.), dress underwent significant changes due to social unrest and cultural integration of various ethnic groups. During the Wei and Jin Dynasties, dress was still dominated by shirts, thongs and skirts.

Sui and tang dynasties[edit]

During the Sui and Tang dynasties, China was united by division, fluctuated by war, and prospered in economy and civilization, and the development of dress, whether it be material or style of clothing, appeared to be a phenomenon of overwhelming splendor. In the Sui Dynasty and the early Tang Dynasty, women's short jacket are used with small sleeves, under the tight long skirt, skirt waist high tie, usually above the waist, some even tied in the armpits, and tied with ribbons, giving a playful and slender feeling.

In the middle Tang Dynasty, the ruru skirt is more open than that of the early Tang Dynasty, and there is not much change in the others. The women of the Sui and Tang dynasties were well dressed. From the court spread the “half-arm”, there is a lapel, head, collar or collarless style, sleeve length of the elbow, the length of the body and the waist, with a small band when the chest knot. Sheng Tang period of female figurines have been from the early Tang Qingxiu type to the shy type change, reflecting the aesthetic concept has changed. The sleeves and skirts of the women's clothing were widened day by day. Due to the development of textile, embroidery and printing and dyeing technology, the color, decoration and workmanship of clothing is also increasingly exquisite and expensive. To the middle and late Tang Dynasty, big sleeves, wide clothes, pleated wide skirt became fashionable.[6]

The Song Dynasty[edit]

Due to the Song Dynasty emphasized the concept of “the survival of the Divine Principle, extinguish human desire”, so that the individual antagonism of all inhibited, the constraints on women also pushed to the extreme, so the Song Dynasty women's formal, conservative, elegant and quiet colors,ru cloth, pasted with a strengthened “cover” function, which is most characteristic of the pasted with a lapel, slits on both sides, mostly covered with other clothes outside the wearer. The most characteristic feature of the pasted jacket is that it has a pair of lapels and slits on both sides, and it is worn outside other clothes. Although both men and women wore them, they were especially popular in women's clothing. Song Dynasty noblewoman dresses - big-sleeved shirt, long skirt, paillette match, is the late Tang Dynasty and Five Dynasties left behind the clothing style, in the Northern Song Dynasty is still popular, mostly worn by noble women, ordinary women can not wear. Wearing this kind of clothing, must be accompanied by gorgeous and exquisite jewelry, including hair ornaments, face ornaments, earrings, neck ornaments and chest ornaments, etc., the Song Dynasty period due to the dress less wear, women wear narrow-sleeved shirts and jackets with long pasted together as a dress.[7]

The Yuan Dynasty[edit]

The Yuan Dynasty was an era of ethnic integration in Chinese history, and the costumes and clothing fully reflected this feature. Genghis Khan, the founder of the Yuan Dynasty, built the Khanate since 1206, and after the destruction of Western Xia and Jin, its ethnic composition was mainly dominated by Mongols. Yuan dynasty due to the more acute ethnic conflicts, long in a state of war, textile industry, handicrafts have been greatly damaged. Palace service system for a long time to extend the Song, until 1321 Yuan Yingzong period only with reference to the ancient system, the development of the Son of Heaven and the hundred officials of the upper garment with the lower garment, on the tight under the short, and in the waist plus crease accumulation, the back of the shoulder to hang a large bead of the “quality of the Sun clothing” system, the Han people say “one color clothes” or “quality of the Sun clothing”. The Chinese called it “one-color clothes” or “quality Sun clothes”. This is inherited from the Han and Mongolian national characteristics of the clothing system.[8]

The Ming Dynasty[edit]

At the beginning of the Ming Dynasty, the tradition of the Han and Tang dynasties was restored, and the turban, round-collar robe, and jade belt of the Tang and Song dynasties were inherited, laying down the basic style of the official uniforms of the Ming Dynasty and formulating a clear and detailed system of clothing etiquette.

The Ming dynasty's sacrificial service is still the coronet, but the Ming Emperor thought, “This ritual is too complicated. Sacrifice to heaven and earth, the temple clothing gun crown, the altar of grain and other sacrificial services Tongtian crown, reddish-red gauze robe, the rest do not use.” That is to say, the emperor does not wear a coronet during the sacrifice, or wear a crown, with a reddish-red robe.

The Qing dynasty[edit]

The Qing dynasty time to implement shaved hair and easy to dress, Shunzhi nine years (1652), the “dress color shoulder ordinance” promulgated, since the abolition of the Ming dynasty's crowns, gowns, and all the costumes of the Han, but the Manchu dress at the same time absorbed the texture pattern of the Ming dynasty dress. Ming Dynasty men were all stored hair in a bun, wearing loose clothing, wearing stockings, shallow shoes; Qing Dynasty, shaved hair and braids, braids hanging behind the head, wearing thin horseshoe-sleeved arrows, tight socks, deep boots. But the official and the people's costumes are always clear-cut. The Qing Dynasty is a Manchu ruler-based regime, Manchu Banner dress with the change of dynasty rushed into the customs. The customs and habits of the Banners influenced the vast Central Plains. Starting from the public dress gradually pushed to the regular dress.

Republic of China period (1912-1949)[edit]

The Republic of China period was an important stage in the history of Chinese fashion. Chinese society experienced many changes and revolutions, and Western clothing and styles gradually affected China's fashion industry. China began to be exposed to Western culture and fashion. During this period, some Chinese began to wear Western-style clothing, while traditional Hanfu gradually faded out of the mainstream. Fashion during the Republic of China is considered the origin of modern fashion in China.[9]

Cheongsam[edit]

Woman in Cheongsam

Cheongsam is the traditional dress of Chinese women in China and the world, and is regarded as China's national treasure and women's national costume. It was formed in the 1920s and has since become the most common women's garment. Some scholars believe that its origin can be traced back to the deep clothes of the pre-Qin and Han Dynasties. Although there are still many controversies about its definition and the time of its creation, it is still one of the most splendid phenomena and forms of China's long history of dress culture. In 1929, the government of the Republic of China promulgated the Regulations on the System of Clothing, which designated the traditional Chinese jacket and skirt, as well as the cheongsam, as women's dresses.[10]

Chinese tunic suit[edit]

Mao Zedong in a Zhongshan suit

Chinese tunic suit (Chinese tunic suit) is a four-pocket garment with a stand-up lapel and a pocket flap designed on the basis of widely absorbing European and American costumes and synthesizing the characteristics of Japanese student clothes (zigzag suit) and Chinese clothes. in April 1929, the Chinese tunic suit was announced as the legal uniform by order of the Nationalist Government. after the 1950s, it became the formal clothing for everyone from national leaders to ordinary citizens. After the 1950s, Zhongshan suit became the official clothing of the national leaders to the common people.[11]

Since the founding of New China(1949 to present)[edit]

After the founding of New China, China's fashion industry has gone through different stages and developments. In the second half of the 20th century, due to political and economic reasons, China's fashion industry was restricted to a certain extent. People dressed more uniformly and had weak fashion awareness. However, with the implementation of the reform and opening up policy, China's fashion industry has gradually flourished, domestic designers and brands have begun to emerge, and China's fashion industry has gradually become an important force on the international stage.[12]

 In 1949, the First Plenary Session of the Chinese People's Political Consultative Conference (CPPCC) opened with the election of Mao Zedong as Chairman of the Central People's Government, announcing the birth of the great new China at the founding ceremony of the People's Republic of China. In this historic moment, Mao Zedong wearing Zhongshan suit on the Tiananmen Square tower solemn declaration of the image of forever in the history books, and this set of clothes with the world famous, Westerners called it “Mao Suit” (Mao uniform). The Mao Suit became the most fashionable dress of that era. Compared with the Zhongshan Suit of the Republic of China, the Mao Suit of the 1950s had a larger neckline and the lapel changed from small to large.[13]

The first People's Congress in 1954, men are to wear the Zhongshan suit as fashionable and progressive. While most of the women choose Su Lenin suit, this style of clothing learned from the Soviet Union for the double-breasted suit with open collar, if the lower part of the large lapel phase cover, buckle under the collar, it becomes two small pointed collar. The waist tied a cloth belt, two rows of three buttons, double lapel in the lower part of both with a dark slanting pockets, using gray or blue khaki, this system of clothing can shape the typical “female cadres” image, in the revolutionary era looks simple and solemn.[14]

1966-1978, period of popular revolutionization.During the “Cultural Revolution”, the “Breaking the Four Olds” (old ideas, old culture, old customs and old habits) campaign swept across the country, in which the elimination of “feudal, capitalist and cultivator” costumes became the initial focus. The focus of the campaign was to eliminate the “feudal, capitalist and cultivator” costumes in the early period. During this period, green military uniforms, military civilian clothes and military coats became fashionable symbols of urban revolutionary youth. In the later period, a kind of “open-collar dress” became a representative of the “clothing revolution”. In urban China, the revolutionary image of “tall, big and full” became the standard of clothing, resulting in the “old three pieces” (Zhongshan, youth and military civilian clothes) and the “old three colors” (blue, gray and black) style of clothing, gray and black) of clothing styles have solidified and stagnated.[15]

Reform and opening up is like opening doors and windows, so that we are integrating and synchronizing with the world. People continue to change themselves through clothing, not only on the level of appearance, but also in terms of aesthetic interest. In the 1960s and 1970s, bell-bottom pants became a fashion in Europe and the U.S. At the end of the 1970s, China entered a new period of reform and opening up and modernization. People knew more and more about the world, and came into contact with a variety of clothing cultures through books, radio, movies and television. Flared pants were popular in China, accompanied by sunglasses, tights, etc. Since the 1990s, reform and opening up has entered a new stage, with rapid economic growth and continued cultural prosperity. China's dress culture, including the manufacturing system, has become more developed, which has well met the needs of people's attire at different times and on different occasions. Trends are fleeting and styles are ever-changing.[16]

References[edit]

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  9. ^ 郑; 吕 (2007). "论民国时期影响女性服饰演变的诸因素". 中州学刊.
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  16. ^ "45个时光片段穿梭改革开放45年之"衣"路繁花". news.cctv.com (in Chinese (China)). Retrieved 2024-05-11.