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Kürtősh Kalách

Place of origin	Szeklerland
Main ingredients	flour, sugar, milk, butter, eggs, yeast, salt

Kürtősh Kalács is a popular pastry specific to Hungarian -speaking regions, more predominantly, the Szekler land. Earlier a festive treat, now it is part of everyday consumption. Kürtősh Kalách is made from sweet, yeast dough (raised dough), of which a strip is spun and then wrapped around a truncated cone –shaped baking spit , which –in turn- is rolled in granulated sugar. It is baked above charcoal cinders while lubricated with melted butter, until its surface gets a golden-brown color. During the baking process the sugar stuck on Kürtősh Kalách becomes caramel and forms shiny, crispy crust on the cake. Surface of cake can be provided ulterior topping (e.g. may optionally be rolled in ground walnut or cinnamon powder).

Etymology of cake refers to vent of stove, since the fresh, steaming cake of the shape of a truncated cone’s lateral surface bears resemblance to a vent. This opinion is shared by Attila T. SZABÓ, scholar and philologist from Kolozsvár (Klausenburg, Cluj): “…When cake is taken off from the spit in one piece, it gets the shape of a 25-30-cm long vent or tube. Since cake preserves shape when served for both family and guests, consumers are faced with this typical, vent-like image of cake tearing off in strips. It is obvious that etymology must be closely related to the vent shape of cake”.

Throughout the centuries, miscellaneous denominations and spellings of Kürtősh Kalách popped up. More references were mentioned even in 19th century (e.g. dorongfánk/Spit Donut or botratekercs/Stick Roll - Up or botfánk/Stick Donut). Present name in use has a Transylvanian origin and became popular only by the middle of 20th century. Until the end of the century it had different spellings (e.g. spelt with ‘ö’ as in ‘kürtös kalács’ or in two words, as in ‘kürtős kalács’. As far as we know the present name, i.e. ‘kürtőskalács’ first appeared in a cookbook, published by the book department of ‘Brassói Lapok’ (Transylvanian gazette of the time) in 1926.

The International Kürtősh Kalách Trade Corporation has taken measures to have Kürtősh Kalách registered as Hungarian product by EU.

History of Kürtősh Kalách

First known record with hint at family of cakes baked by rotating spit over cinders dates back to medieval times (about 1450) and is to be found in a manuscript from Heidelberg. Description mentions strip of raised dough that has to be wound in helix shape around baking spit, and brushed with yolk before baking.

In 16th century evolution of cake family ramified in three branches. First branch contains pastries that preserved image of cake similar to the above dough (i.e. strip wound on spit in helix shape). The Szekler – Hungarian Kürtőskalács (Kürtősh Kalách), Skalicky Trdelnik (Trdelnik from Szakolca), and the Czech-Moravian Trdlo/Trdelnice/Trdelnik, which is virtually the same as the latter, as well as the kürtősfánk (Kürtősh Donut/Kürtős Baked in Oil) belong to this branch. The second branch has pastries of liquid dough, namely the Lithuanian – Polish – French Ragoulis/Sakotis/Sekacz/Gateau a la broche, the German Baumkuchen, the Austrian Prügertorte/Prügelkrapfen as well as the Swedish Spettekaka/Spettkaka. The third branch is represented by one cake, the Transylvanian – Saxon Baumstriezel, where a continuous dough strip is placed on spit (see www.kurtos.eu).

Extract from Cookbook of Count Mária Mikes from Zabola, with the first known recipe of Kürtősh Kalách.

First known recipe of Kürtősalács originates from Transylvania, included in the Cookbook of Countess Mária MIKES from Zabola from the year of 1784 (‘kürtős kaláts’ à la Mrs. PORÁNI). Back then there was no sweetening of any kind in the manufacturing procedure. A recipe from the cookbook written by Kristóf Simai in 1795 and the next years in Upper Hungary (present Slovakia) already mention sweetening subsequent to baking. Trdelnik from Szakolca is based on similar manufacturing procedure, with cake surface covered by chopped kernel of shelled fruit (e.g. walnut, almond) before baking, and sugar that is added only subsequent to baking.

Extract from ‘Rézi néni Szakácskönyve’(Aunt Rézi’s Cookbook), published in Szeged in the year of 1876, with the first recipe that applies sprinkling sugar on Kürtősh Kalách before baking to achieve caramel sugar glaze.

Almost 100 years passed, when first mention is made of the next step in the evolution of Kürtőskalács, i.e. appearance of caramel sugar glaze, in Aunt Rézi’s Cookbook written by Terézia DOLECSKÓ in 1876, published in Szeged, Hungary. Recipe suggests sprinkling sugar (sugar almond) on dough on spit a priory to baking. Consequently, other flavors appear besides the ‘merely’ sweet flavor. Explanation is that due to heat sugar is made caramel and also enters in what is known as Maillard reaction. Sugar glaze that melts to become caramel and then compact, thus forming continuous coat, also adds to mechanical firmness of cake. Shortly afterwards pure sugar (not almond sugar) was applied to dough surface before baking, even with the omission of sweetening subsequent to baking. Ágnes ZILAHI’s cookbook entitled Valódi Magyar szakácskönyv (The Real Hungarian Cookbook), which appeared in Budapest in 1892, presents such a recipe.

First mention of ulterior topping applied on caramel glazed sugar (vanilla sugar) is to be encountered in Rézi néni szakácskönyve (Aunt Rézi’s Cookbook). The use of ground, chopped or candied walnut kernel applied as ulterior topping became popular only in the second trimester of 20th century. As far as we know Pál KÖVI’s cookbook, Erdélyi lakoma (Transylvanian Feast), which came out in 1980, seems to be the first source with the tip of applying this type of ulterior topping. The wide spectrum of cinnamon, coconut, cocoa, etc. ulterior toppings started to receive wide application merely at the end of the previous century.

The current, most frequently baked variant of Kürtőskalács evolved on the eastern periphery of Hungarian speaking region, i.e. the Szeklerland, in the first half of 20th century. It is specific to this variant that surface of raw dough wrapped around spit is flattened out, by the usual procedure of rolling (turning) it on flat surface sprinkled with granulated sugar. By this procedure the sequential winds of dough strip wrapped around spit are pressed together, rendering the cake smoother, more compact in structure and more elegant. First written record of this technological step appears in Mrs. ZATHURECZKY, née Manci ZLECH’s cookbook, which was published in Barót between 1934 – 1943. The cookbook entitled Erdélyi ízek (Flavors of Transylvania), which appeared in Csíkszereda (Szeklerburg/Miercurea-Ciuc), published by Proprint Press in 2007, specifies recipe of the sort.

Spread of Kürtősh Kalách

Extract from Mrs. Feratti, née Ágnes Kálnoki’s letter ( Jászvásár, 1723), which is the first mention of the neology ‘kürtő kaláts’, i.e. Kürtősh Kalách. The original letter can be found in the Kolozsvár State Archive.

Kürtőskalács became popular among Hungarian nobility at beginning of 18th century. Hint at Austrian or German origin is the fact that conservative Transylvanian nobleman, Péter APOR, in his work Metamorphosis Transylvaniae does not mention Kürtőskalács in the list of traditional Hungarian foods, for all the evidence we have about the cake in case already existing in his wife’s cuisine. In a letter from mother superior of Moldavia addressed to Mrs Péter APOR, née Borbála KÁLNOKI, the mother superior asks Mrs. APOR to have a butler of hers taught the art of baking Kürtőslalács ”…Honored mother Superior prays You if She could send You a butler in the hope perchance You spare no pain and teach him kindly some art of baking Kürtős Kalács withal others…”.

By the end of 18th century Kürtőskalács became popular on all Hungarian speaking regions, a defining element of both civilian and folk cuisine. In the first volume of A Székelyöfld leírása (Description of Szeklerland) from 1868, Balázs ORBÁN writes about genesis legend of Udvarhelyszék, which seems to mirror that by this time Kürtőskalács was already strongly imprinted in the common knowledge of the region. The legend says that the Szeklers, who were chased in caves and later blockaded by the Tartars, eventually made the enemy leave by presenting them a huge Kürtőskalács made of straw held out of the cave, showing they would by no means starve. Throughout 19th and 20th centuries recipe of cake was recorded in numerous popular cookbooks.

As a result of civilian evolution and urbanization at the beginning of 20th century this festive cake got to be replaced by cakes of civilian origin and a more rural nature. On the eastern periphery of the Hungarian speaking regions, in the Szeklerland, fire mechanisms of the open fireplace type survived all the way to the end of 19th century. Consequently, Kürtőskalács has been preserved as a living tradition on regions dwelt by Szeklers. Up to the present Kürtőskalács baked above cinders is regarded as immanent to the Transylvanian wedding menu.

Following the change of regime in 1989, the Kürtőskalács has become the traditional local treat offered to Hungarian tourists visiting Szekler villages and thus the indispensable element of the image related to the Szeklerland and Transylvania. This gastronomic tradition, which earlier had been preserved merely in rural communities of Szeklers, gradually found its way back to the culture of the Hungarian elite, mainly due to tourism. By the middle of 1990s Kürtőskalács became popular in most cities in Hungary and tourists visiting Hungary report on ‘the gorgeous, sweet, tubular treat’ with admiration.

The Szeklerland is located in the geographical center of Romania, with a population of Hungarian majority, i.e. 75%, yet a minority surrounded by Romanians. The Szeklerland has been subject to constant pressure administered by the state power centralized in Bucharest (e.g. prohibition on use of local symbols, constraint on use of Hungarian language). All these contributed to the specific phenomenon of over – representation. In some Szekler villages at some festive occasion the record of Kürtösh Kalách length has been broken: some over – sized (15 -20m) Kürtősh Kalách was baked instead of the standard 30 - 40 cm – cake.

These days Kürtőskalács manufacturing is not restricted to Hungarian speaking regions. Firstly, owing to international migration of labor, and secondly, thanks to tourism it has been streamlined throughout the world. Moreover, today Kürtöskalács is considered not only a Szekler or Hungarian symbol, but also a European pastry and gastronomic symbol. Because it is easy to make and quick to make, and also easy to consume, the future will bring further spreading of Kürtőskalács.

Kürtősh Kalách Variants

Three variants of Kürtősh Kalách can be distinguished, which are nonetheless, manufactured in a similar way.

Recipe of traditional, homemade variant became standardized at beginning of 20th century. Ingredients are firmly specified and it is usually baked above cinders. Inherent ingredients are exclusively: Sucrose, wheat flour, butter, milk, eggs, yeast and salt. Ulterior topping is restricted to ground or chopped walnut, almond, cinnamon powder or vanilla sugar made from natural vanilla powder.

Carnival variant became popular in the last trimester of 20th century. With this variant recipe is more flexible so that it can be manufactured in smaller, mobile places, rendering it much cheaper. In this variant, butter can be replaced by vegetal oil or margarine, and milk by milk powder. Moreover, eggs can be replaced by egg powder or liquid eggs, but this ingredient can also be omitted. In exchange, grated lemon zest, natural citrus extract or citrus juice, rum or vanilla sugar powder can be added to dough. Surface can be provided any ulterior topping that bears flavor and aroma specific to confectionery products. However, cakes with coating of salt, meat or cheese do not rank in the category of Kürtősh Kalách.

Alternative variant appeared at beginning of 21st century. Recipe can be even more flexible. Dough can be made of non – wheat flour. Inner, tubular part can be also provided ulterior coating, and it can abound in other natural ingredients (e.g. pieces of fruit) specific to confectionery usage. Alternative Kürtősh Kalách can be prepared gluten free as well. Cake that lacks in ingredients of animal origin (milk, butter, eggs) can be labeled as ‘Vegan’ or ‘Lent’.

Kürtősfánk (Kürtősh Donut) is a similar - shaped cake, which is baked in oil or fat and topped with sugar after baking or stuffed with whipped cream. Kürtősh Donut cannot be officially considered Kürtősh Kalách.

Foreign denominations

Particular denominations of cake have been coined in common gastronomic knowledge of neighboring nations. Amongst Saxons, who earlier dwelt in Transylvania, the mirror translation of the word Kürtősh Kalách, i.e. Schornsteinkuchen became popular. The Polish and Romanians use both the phonetic transcription of the word Kürtősh Kalách and the translation of the adjective – noun cluster of magyar kalács/Hungarian Kalách or székely kalács/Szekler Kalách (Kurtoszkalacz or Wegierski kolacz and respectively Colac Secuiesc or Cozonac Secuiesc). Other languages’ written reference to Kürtős Kalách is rendered either by phonetic transcription of the entire compound word (Kurtosh Kalach), or the phonetic transcription of cluster’s first element, i.e. ‘kürtős’ – Kurtosh + translation of second element of cluster (Kurtosh Cake).

Recipe variants

Kürtősh Kalách recipes are miscellaneous: like a folk song’s variations on the same theme..

Recipe of Kürtőskalács may vary within certain constraints. Therefore ingredient quantity will also be approximated. Slight differences may also occur in manufacturing procedures. Thus, if needed, we will provide several similar descriptions. Hereinafter we will give the recipe of homemade variant and the biases.

Ingredients for 4 -5 pieces (35 cm long, with a larger inner diameter of 8 cm, or a smaller inner diameter of 7 cm).

-In case of homemade and carnival variant: 1 kg good quality wheat flour; with alternative variant wheat flour can be replaced by flour or flour mix required by raised dough.

-In case of all variants: 20 – 100 g icing sugar

-In case of all variants: 1 – 8 g salt

-In case of all variants: 10 –40 g yeast

-In case of homemade variant: 2 – 4 eggs (in the aggregate 100 – 200g), optionally some extra yolks (max. 4), in case of carnival variant the latter can be left out or replaced by egg powder free of synthetic additives, or liquid eggs.

-In case of homemade variant: 2 -5 dl milk (quantity of milk is inverse proportional to number of eggs). In case of carnival variant this can be replaced by fat milk powder of adequate quantity (min. 30 g) and water; in case of vegan variant it can be replaced with vegetable milk substitute.

-In case of homemade variant 200 – 300 g butter (min. 65% fat), which is either kneaded in dough in entirety or about 100 g is kneaded in dough and the rest is spread on strip by brush while baking. With carnival or alternative variant butter to be kneaded in dough can be replaced by vegetable oil, fat, margarine (min 65% fat) or the mix of these. Brushing in the process of baking can be omitted.

In case of carnival or alternative variant grated zest of lemon, orange or other citrus (max. 10 g) can be added to dough or freshly squeezed citrus juice (max. 40 ml). In addition max. 30 g vanilla sugar or vanilla powder, couple of milliliters of natural citrus extract or vanilla extract, max 10ml rum - free of synthetic additives can be added to dough. Nevertheless flavor and aroma of these additives shall not be dominant.

If cake belonging to the alternative variant is made from active gluten free flour or flour mix containing active gluten free flour as well, max.18 m/m% vital gluten can be combined with flour or flour mix. Alternative Kürtőskalács can be prepared gluten free as well. In this case max 6 m/m% natural active gluten replacer (e.g. guar or xanthan) can be added to gluten free flour. Products can be gluten free provided that they meet requirements set by expert authorities. Special raw materials are needed for preparation, and gluten contamination should be avoided at preparation and packaging.

The amount of dough of alternative variants prepared from1 kg flour can be combined with or wrapped along with max. 150 g or 150 ml natural based ingredients differing from the above mentioned ones, provided that their aroma and flavor is confectionery wise. In no defining way can these ingredients alter mechanical features of cake, or their flavor and aroma are not to suppress that of baked dough and caramel sugar glaze. These ingredients can be like raisin, dried fruit chopped in raisin size, walnut kernel, hazelnut, almond, wine, jam or halva. It is practical to place pieces of compact ingredients between baking spit and dough strip in the process of winding strip around spit.

After dough is prepared and before baking is started 500 – 600 g granulated sugar should be at disposal, out of which 120 – 200 g will be used. In case of homemade or carnival variant sugar can be only sucrose, while with alternative variant it can be any type of sugar that melts about 165 °C – 200 °C . Material for potential ulterior topping should also be prepared (see below).

If Kürtőskalács in case bears any mark of the alternative product it should be regarded as belonging to the alternative variant.

a.) How to prepare dough

Kürtőskalács is made from a viscoelastic, sweet, hard yeast-dough.

If you prepare homemade Kürtőskalács: First crumble yeast in a small cup (about 1 dl, i.e.100 ml) of lukewarm milk and let it lift. After about 10 minutes measure flour in a big mixing bowl, combine yeasted milk and all ingredients but the rest of milk (you may want to melt butter before this operation). Add milk evenly while kneading, paying special attention so that dough remains hard. In case of variants other than the homemade butter and/or milk can be replaced as specified, eggs can be replaced or left out. With the alternative variant more types of flour may be used.

Cover kneaded dough and let it rise at temperature of 20-40 °C until volume is about two times dough size. Do not let dough over-rise: it might deteriorate flavor and compactness. It is important to store dough in a cool place or refrigerator, re- knead it from time to time, and use it up within two hours.

b.) How to prepare baking, flatten out surface and coat with sugar

Baking is performed by a truncated cone-shaped baking spit made of hardwood, ceramics or iron. The most practical is use of baking spit made of hardwood.

Take a piece of dough (the widest – spread procedure indicates 385 – 425 g weight for 35–cm-long spit with a larger diameter of 8 cm, or a smaller diameter of 7 cm). Dough can be prepared in two ways for wrapping around the spit. Following the first procedure stretch dough to 1.5 cm sheet with rolling pin, then cut it into a curlicue with dough strip as wide as 1.5 – 2 cm. Subsequently you may spin dough strip. According to second procedure spin dough with two hands till you get a 3 m - long and 1.5 cm - wide, cylinder – shaped dough strip.

It is mostly operative to pre–heat baking spit to 50°C.

Brush baking spit with butter (with variants other than homemade you may use any other fat). Start to wind the dough strip on the spit. For the sake of stability tuck ends under first and last wind. If you wrap a flat strip on the spit, the winds should meet. While if you wrap spun dough strip, leave even space between winds; space width should not exceed thickness of spun dough.

Next step: flatten out dough surface and spread sugar on it.

For this we need 500 - 600 g granulated sugar, out of which we will use 120-200 g. In case of homemade variant this can be only sucrose, whereas in case of carnival variant vanilla sugar might be also added to sucrose. In case of alternative variant it can be any type of sugar which melts between 165 °C and 200 °C to become caramel, or we can combine any powder – like or granular ingredient of a natural base, provided that this aroma or flavor does not get divergent from those specific to confectionery products, even subsequent to heating.

According to a popular procedure spread granulated sugar on smooth, dry surface, which has to be longer than the spit and min. 30 cm. wide. (In case of variants other than the homemade Kürtőskalács we can use granulated sugar that has been enhanced by the above mentioned culinary to be later spread on the smooth, dry surface).

Roll the spit with strip in sugar, press (rotate) it gently and evenly till dough is evenly thick with smooth surface. If dough is spun strip, press it till wind edges meet. At this point raw Kürtőskalács is ready to bake. Nevertheless, subsequent rising of dough (of max. 5 minute) can be inserted at this stage.

Another procedure indicates to flatten out surface of raw Kürtőskalács already wound on spit while rolling it on slightly floured board. This step can also be followed by max. 5 minute of subsequent dough rising. As for homemade Kürtőskalács brush surface of raw dough with melted butter and then sprinkle granulated sugar on it (as for the other variants butter can be replaced by melted fat, oil, egg white, yolk, or eggs stirred).

Surface of 1 piece of Kürtőskalács (35 - cm long, with a larger diameter of 8 cm or a smaller diameter of 7 cm) should be provided 20 – 25 g granulated sugar.

Note that the structure of dough that has not been raised subsequently is looser, whereas structure of dough that has been subsequently raised is looser. If rising or subsequent rising is excessive, it may result in spongy, bubbled, unpalatable dough structure. Also bear in mind that volume of Kürtőskalács dough will increase under heat owing to thermal expansion of inherent gas bubbles and steam production.

c.) How to bake

Only those confectionery products can be designated the name Kürtősh Kalách, which are heated by hot air and heat radiation. Baking is rendered by charcoal cinders or electric strove or gas stoves respectively. Product baked over charcoal cinders is attributed a unique flavor. In order to bake 4 – 5 pieces of Kürtőskalács you need cinders that derive from about 2.5 kg charcoal.

Place spit wrapped by the yeast dough strip on baking stand couple of cm. above cinders or above/near hot surface. Start rotating it, by performing approximately one full turn every second or third seconds. It is of utmost importance to control hot air temperature that surrounds the dough while baking, and to control degree of heat radiation. When baking above cinders, these are defined by distance of cake from cinders (of about 500°C). When baking near some other hot surface is applied, the distance measured from hot surface, as well as the temperature of hot surface can also be controlled.

The real cavalcade of flavors is represented by Kürtőskalács lubricated with melted butter while baking. If you go for this procedure the steps are as follows: melt 150-200 g butter in a small metal mug and wait till most of water content evaporates. You may combine a little (max. 5m/m %) granulated sugar. Place a 3-5 cm wide soft brush into mug. When the sugar on cake starts to get brownish, dip the brush into melted butter and lubricate the surface of the cake. Do not brush too hard because you might damage dough strip or remove sugar from the surface. In the process of baking, cover the entire surface of cake with butter. Try to avoid that melted, candied butter drip on cinders or hot surface, because the smoke derived will assign the cake bitter, bad flavor.

Kürtőskalács is ready when cake surface has a nice, uniform golden – brownish (reddish – brownish) color. With professional manufacturing this means inner part is well-done too. Baking time may circumstantially vary between 6 and 15 minutes.

d.) How to apply ulterior toppings

Kürtőskalács can be enriched by further aromas and flavors if the completed cake is provided ulterior topping. In this case a cluster adjective – noun should be applied for product designation (e.g. Walnut Kürtőskalács). External ulterior topping should be applied by sprinkling topping on surface of hot, freshly baked cake, which has just been taken off the baking spit or by rolling cake in topping. In this process granules of ulterior topping will stick in melted, caramel sugar glaze. Internal ulterior topping may be applied via brushing.

Homemade Kürtőskalács can be provided ulterior topping limited to ground or chopped kernel, almond seed, cinnamon, natural vanilla powder or one of these combined with sugar. If some other ulterior topping is utilized, product shall be considered belonging to carnival variant, even if dough ranks it in homemade variant.

In case of carnival and alternative variants, any external ulterior topping can be used that does not contain salt, cheese, meat or any ingredient that is non – specific to confectionery product, plus sugar containing artificial coloring matter. Ulterior topping can include only natural ingredients, except for vanilla sugar powder used with variants other than homemade Kürtőskalách.

Alternative Kürtőskalács category applies to all variants that have been provided ulterior internal topping.

Note that subsequent to the application of certain ulterior topping cake can be placed back in oven for roasting (max. 10 -15 seconds, that is couple of turns of spit).

e.) How to provide protective packaging and how to store

When baking is finished and haphazard ulterior topping is applied, hold spit vertically above strong wooden plate or metal plate with thinner end pointing down. Release cake by gently knocking metal axis of spit against wooden or metal plate.

Take away products should be provided protective packaging. Do not start to place Kürtőskalács in protective packing in less than 1 minute after baking. You want to start narrowing the package (fold or tuck in) only approximately 5 minutes when most of steam has leaked out of interior of cake. Protective packaging can be closed only after cake has cooled (25 – 30 min). The cooled, ready cake must not be exposed to strong sun and heat. The most practical wrapping material should be heat resistant (e.g. cellophane foil), easy-to-remove from surface of cake. Sticking can occur when in the packaging process, hot melted sugar glaze topping touches wrapping material, or in case if storing subsequent to vending is not adequate (i.e. cake is exposed to heat or moisture). Kürtőskalács can also be stored in protective gas applied for bakery products.

In case of homemade Kürtőskalács it is a must, whereas in case of other variants it is recommended to use treads of red, white and green or respectively light blue and golden cords at upper part of package to pull package end together and then close package after Kürtőskalács has been cooled.

Kürtőskalács can be kept in shady, dry and cool place. Quality preservation can be assessed to max. 3 hours and time of expiration cannot exceed 24 hours.

Further information

• Kürtősh Kalach
• Collection of links in Kürtősh Kalách subject
• Delay in saving Hungarian specialty products
• Slovakians would have the Kürtősh Kalách patented
• The Kürtősh Kalách from Szakolca - the first Slovakian product that has been patented.
• Slovakians would have Kürtősh Kalách patented.
• Baking Kürtős Kalách on charcoal operated grilling tool

Category:Pastries Category:Spit-cooked foods Category:Hungarian desserts Category:Romanian desserts