Talk:Lopsang Jangbu Sherpa

Additional sources
For those interested and inclined, if you get to it before I do, there is additional information regarding Lopsang in Krakauer's Into Thin Air and Boukreev's The Climb. Krakauer in particular conveys the theme of many descriptions of Lopsang--that he was a rockstar among climbing sherpas. Steveozone (talk) 05:06, 7 October 2011 (UTC)


 * I will go through my copies of both The Climb and Into Thin Air and gladly put your request on my to do list although my real-world responsibilities look to be fairly demanding in the coming week or so. Sucks. I'm just hoping I don't miss too much of the Series. Go Car...oops, I guess we're not supposed to get into stuff like that here. Anyway I have already added some content using Krakauer, so happy to do more when I get a chance. Take care.--Racerx11 (talk) 02:42, 19 October 2011 (UTC)

Bottled oxygen
I may be muddling things a little, but I've read Into Thin Air and Krakauer doesn't really criticize Lopsang for not using bottled oxygen. Rather he makes clear that the short-roping incident and him not being in front to install fixed lines were his primary beefs with what Lopsang did that day. Also, I'm pretty sure that Lopsang, as a climbing Sherpa and sidar, wasn't considered a guide in the traditional sense, unless he was guide #2 behind Boukreev (as Neal Beidleman is quoted in the book as saying that he considered himself the third guide, but I'm assuming that it was Fischer/Boukreev/Beidleman). Please feel free to correct me if I'm completely off-base here. hbdragon88 (talk) 05:15, 5 October 2014 (UTC)


 * My understanding and recollection after reading the book (though it's been awhile) was similar to yours. Krakauer made a big deal over the short-roping incident though he did say Lopsang was evidently instructed to do so. It was Boukreev who Krakauer namely blasted for choosing to not use O2 during the climb. Krakauer thought this was an irresponsible decision for a guide.


 * A Sirdar is more like the boss or head of the Sherpa crew, but they do have many responsibilities and obligations common to the western and Russian guides and generally take on the role of a "guide" during summit attempts. If Lopsang was spared criticism for not using O2, it may have been because of the common perception that the local Sherpa's are physically very well adapted to high altitude, though not completely immune to HAPE, even at relatively modest elevations, as a separate incident illustrated that very same season.


 * But on the other hand, if the shoe fits, right? If someone says it's wrong for a guide to do this, and you consider yourself a guide and you did it, how do you take that? Does it matter if you're not specifically named? -- Racer X11 Talk to me Stalk me  13:32, 5 October 2014 (UTC)


 * Well, the problem is that we're a tertiary source, and it would be inappropriate (WP:OR?) for us to claim or imply that because Krakauer criticized Boukreev, he would have also criticized Lopsang for the same thing. I wonder if there were other mountaineers who were critical of Sherpas (in general) not using O2?  I'm almost entirely basing my perceptions and editing on Krakauer's version of the events, just as a disclaimer.  hbdragon88 (talk) 03:31, 6 October 2014 (UTC)

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