Teram Kangri

The Teram Kangri group is a mountain massif in the remote Siachen Muztagh, a subrange of the Karakoram range. The high point of the group, and of the Siachen Muztagh, is Teram Kangri I. The peak lies on the boundary between disputed China controlled Trans-Karakoram Tract and the disputed Siachen Glacier section controlled by India. The northeast side of the peak is in Chinese-controlled territory, the southwest side is controlled by India.

The name Teram Kangri is derived from a Yarkandi legend about a large town which was said to lie at the site of the Teram Shehr glacier. It was named by Tom Longstaff in 1909 when he saw it from the Bilafond La (which lies a few km SW of the peak).

Teram Kangri I was first climbed on August 10, 1975, by a Japanese expedition led by H. Katayama, which obtained a permit from the Government of Pakistan and made the long approach via Bilafond La (the Saltoro Pass). They climbed the SW ridge of Teram Kangri II and then took the East ridge to the top. Teram Kangri II was climbed on August 12 and 13 by six Japanese climbers.

Teram Kangri II (7,407 m) was climbed in 1978 by an Indian Army expedition led by Colonel Narendra Kumar in the first move by India to lay claim to the Siachen Glacier area. Teram Kangri I has been climbed once since, in 1992. The expedition approached through Indian territory.

Teram Kangri III 35.59972°N, 77.04806°W (7,382 m ranked 73rd, Prominence = 500 m ) was first climbed in 1979 by a Japanese expedition led by S. Hanada. Their route crossed over Bilafond La, much like the first ascent of Teram Kangri I.