Wikipedia:WikiProject Military history/News/February 2023/Review essay

By Catlemur

Millions of tourists visit Athens every year to go see the Acropolis, enjoy the local food or just to shop, but there are plenty of military-history-related sights to see as well. Whether you are planning a long visit or just passing by, you might consider visiting some of the following.

The Athens War Museum is a must-visit since it is the largest military history museum in Athens, it is located right outside the Evangelismos metro station and it is situated within walking distance of the National Gallery and the Byzantine and Christian Museum (two great museums in their own right). Its collections include military aircraft and artillery pieces in the courtyard, replicas of ancient siege weapons and everything in between. Exhibits range from antiquity to the Greek participation in the Korean War, with a separate room being dedicated to Cypriot military history. The only notable omission is the Greek Civil War, which was probably deemed too controversial a topic to cover. It is worth noting that the museum exhibits a few artifacts from other cultures as well, medieval Persian weapons and a samurai armor set being examples.

The Greek cruiser Georgios Averof is a museum ship anchored in the Naval Tradition Park in Palaio Faliro. Averof is by far the most important Greek military ship of the 20th century, a former flagship that helped turn the tide of the First Balkan War in the country's favor. It continued its service until 1952, while Greece experienced many wars and tribulations. The Naval Tradition Park also includes a reconstruction of an ancient Athenian trireme, Olympias. Another museum ship, USS Charrette (or Velos as it became known after its transfer to Greece), used to be anchored in the same area but as of January 2023 it was temporary moved to Thessaloniki. Once you are done for the day you can stroll the nearby Marina of Floisvos.

During the course of World War II, Athens had an active underground resistance movement that ranged from civil disobedience to urban warfare. There are at least three museums dedicated to the resistance, and most military history museums cover the period in one way or another as well.

The Museum of National Resistance of Ilioupoli is located far from other places of interest to the average tourist. But if you are interested in this particular period it is well worth the visit since its exposition is the best among the three. What stood out to me the most were hand-written newspapers made by the participants of the 1944 pro EAM revolts in the Middle East, orders issued by Aris Velouchiotis, and photos taken during the Great Famine.

The Museum of National Resistance (Nikaia) is far smaller but it is also much more accessible since it is only a few minutes away from the Nikaia metro station. Nikaia or Kokkinia as it was known during the 1940s was a working-class neighborhood and as such a hotbed of ELAS activity. The culmination of which was the 1944 Battle of Kokkinia and the subsequent roundup which resulted in the Executions of Kokkinia, a particularly traumatic event for the residents of Nikaia and a central theme of the museum. The site of the massacre is located nearby so it's worth combining the two when visiting.

The House of General Napoleon Zervas is a museum dedicated to the life of Napoleon Zervas. It finally opened in November 2022 after spending many years in development hell. Zervas' military career began during the First Balkan War and he took part in several coups during the interwar period. He is best remembered for his role in the creation of the EDES resistance organization during the Axis occupation of the country, and hence the museum largely focuses on this period of his life. It is housed in Zervas' former residence in Metaxourgeio; remember that you need to book an appointment by phone before going.

Although the Greek resistance was dominated by the communist ELAS (with the exception of Crete and Epirus), it was important to commemorate smaller resistance movements such as the right-wing Panhellenic Union of Fighting Youths (PEAN). The PEAN Museum is located in the southern Kallithea district, relatively close to the Kallithea metro station. Housed in a former hideout of the organization, it covers its history very well including the bombing of the collaborationist ESPO offices, and the tragic death of its founder Kostas Perrikos.

The Memorial Site 1941-1944: Korai 4 is as macabre as it is overlooked. Tucked in a basement on Panemistimiou Square is a bomb shelter that was requisitioned by the German Kommandatur and turned into a prison. Though there isn't much to see in terms of physical objects (apart from a large German flag), the graffiti on the walls have a lot to reveal about the period. Ranging from lewd sketches and an AEK Athens F.C. logo to complaints about thirst and even what seem to be people's last words before they were executed. Most of the graffiti are in Greek but there were some in Italian and German. Entrance to the museum is free.

Athens became the site of intense urban warfare during the 1944 Dekemvriana, pitting Greek right wingers and the British against Greek communists in what would foreshadow the Cold War. The sites connected to these events are simply too many to list but those visiting the Leoforos Alexandras Stadium to watch some football might consider going across the street to the Kountouriotika, where bullet-riddled buildings and a small memorial erected by the Communist Party of Greece reveal a period of Greek history that divides opinion to this day.

The Hellenic Maritime Museum is unsurprisingly located in Pireaus. Its exhibits cover the rich history of the Greek maritime tradition from antiquity to modern times. I last visited it many years ago and remember the museum shop being quite good, although I am afraid most books on sale are in Greek.

The Philhellenism Museum is private museum which opened in 2021. It covers the topic of Philhellenism and the foreign participation in the Greek War of Independence really well both in terms of fundraising and military engagements. Entrance is free.

The National Historical Museum is located in the Old Parliament House in the city center and has an excellent collection of Greek War of Independence era artifacts, as well as some medieval and 20th century ones.

Those more interested in Cold War-era military history should take a look at the Museum of Anti-Dictatorship and Democratic Resistance, which covers the topic of resistance against the 1967–1974 Greek junta. Note that you need to book an appointment beforehand to visit this museum.

Special mention goes to the Hellenic Air Force Museum, which is well worth visiting but is situated on the outskirts of Athens and as such is best reached by car.

The central Syntagma Square is home to the Greek Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. Designed in the 1930s the monument invokes references to Ancient Greece as is often the case in the modern Greek discourse, but the conflicts listed are all from the 20th century; the last being the 1974 Turkish invasion of Cyprus. The cenotaph is guarded by members of the presidential guard dressed in the traditional Evzones attire. The change of guard takes place every hour.

The southern district of Alimos houses the Commonwealth War Graves Commission (CWGC) Phaleron War Cemetery, which is easily accessible by the Athens Tram and permanently open. Having never visited any other large CWGC cemetery I found it very impressive, although others may disagree. Designed by Louis de Soissons, most of the graves belong to fallen Commonwealth servicemen who fought in the World War II German invasion of Greece and the Battle of Crete, as well as the Dekemvriana, although there are a few burials dating to the Crimean War as well.

Those interested in funerary art should definitely visit the First Cemetery of Athens. Built in the 19th century it is considered the most prestigious burial place in the country and as such hosts the graves of the cream of Greek society, from Greek War of Independence heroes like Odysseas Androutsos and generals like Panagiotis Danglis to modern politicians, actors and business magnates. Due to the shear range of important people buried there and the serene atmosphere you will find many locals walking about.

Athens also has one cemetery connected to the Russian White movement immigrants who settled in Greece in the aftermath of the Russian Civil War. Out of the 400 gravestones of former Russian soldiers and officers in the Anastasi Keratsini Cemetery only 100 remain today. A list of those buried in the Russian section of the Keratsini Cemetery as well as other Russian military cemeteries in Greece can be found here.